Yarn Stories by Sari N: Elna T-shirt, Novita Venla

As low as €5.95

Come August, it's still summer in the Nordics, but the evenings are getting chillier, and you'll feel like wrapping yourself in wool again. The short-sleeve Elna shirt looks great both as a warm top layer on a flower dress or just with jeans.
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Customize Yarn Stories by Sari N: Elna T-shirt, Novita Venla

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    Availability: In stock

    NONL20203
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL

    Yarn demand
    Novita Venla (658) Oat 200(250)300(300)350 g


    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 2½ mm (US 1½) and 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) or sizes needed for gauge; 2½ mm and 3 mm double-pointed needles for the sleeves (if you don't use the Magic Loop technique); circular needle (40 cm) 2½ mm for the neckline


    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Note The 5 st bobble in the textured pattern counts as one stitch.
     
    Tip When you're decreasing at the bobble, turn the 5 sts into 1 st first: slip 2 sts knitwise, k3tog, pass the slipped sts over.
     
     
    The body is knitted in one piece up to the armholes.
     
    Using the smaller circular needle cast on 224(240)256(272)288 sts and work ribbing in the round for 3,5 cm.
     
    Switch to the larger needles and begin the textured pattern on row 1 of the chart. Work the 8 st pattern repeat 28(30)32(34)36 times. Work rows 2-16 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-16.
     
    When the piece measures 29(30)31(33)35 cm and you have last worked an odd-numbered row of the chart, work 106(114)122(130)138 sts in the textured pattern. Note: The 5 st bobble counts as one stitch (n.b. the decreasing tip).  Bind off the next 12 sts, work textured pattern to last 6 sts, bind off the last 6 sts and the first 6 sts of the next round. 100(108)116(124)132 sts remaining on the front and back pieces.
     
    Now knit the top pieces separately.
     
     
    Top back
     
    Work as established with the 100(108)116(124)132 back sts. On every other row bind off 1(2)2(2)2x3 sts, 2(1)1(2)2x2 sts and 2(2)3(3)3x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 82(88)94(98)106 sts. Work textured pattern until the piece measures 17(18)19(20)21 cm from the armhole.
     
    Bind off the middle 40 sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row bind off 2x2 sts at the neckline edge.
     
    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23 cm and you have last worked either row 1 or row 9 of the chart, leave the remaining 17(20)23(25)29 shoulder sts on hold.
     
    Knit the other side in the same manner.
     
     
    Top front
     
    Work like back until the piece measures 11(12)13(14)15 cm from the armhole. Bind off the middle 22 sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row bind off 1x5 sts, 1x3 sts, 1x2 sts and 3x1 st at the neckline edge.
     
    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23 cm and you have last worked either row 1 or row 9 of the chart, leave the remaining 17(20)23(25)29 shoulder sts on hold.
     
    Knit the other side in the same manner.
     
    Shoulder seams: Turn the piece inside out. Move the left shoulder sts back onto the needles and hold the shoulders parallel. Use the three-needle bind-off to join the pieces: knit together the first sts on the needles and slip them off the needles. Work the 2nd pair of sts in the same manner. Pass the first st on the right-hand needle over the second one. Continue until you run out of sts. Alternatively you can bind off all sts and then sew the shoulder seam. Work the other shoulder in the same manner.
     
     
    Sleeves
     
    Using the smaller needles cast on 80(84)88(92)96 sts and divide them onto four needles (if you're using double-pointed needles). Work stockinette stitch in the round for 3 cm. Now knit a round with holes for folding: *k2tog, yarn over*, repeat *-* to end of round. Work stockinette st for 3 cm and increase 0(1)0(1)0 st on the last round = 80(85)88(93)96 sts.
     
    Switch to the larger needles and begin the textured pattern on row 1 of the chart: work the 8 st pattern 10 times (10 times, then work the 5 sts at left) 11 times (11 times, then work the 5 sts at left) 12 times. Work rows 2-16 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-16.
     
    When the sleeve measures 10(11)12(12)13 cm from the fold round and you have last worked an even-numbered row of the chart, work to last 6 sts, bind off the last 6 sts and the first 6 sts of the next round.
     
    On every other round bind off 1x3 sts, 2(1)1(1)1x2 sts, 17(18)20(22)24x1 st and 1(2)2(2)2x3 sts at both ends. Bind off the remaining sts.
     
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
     
    Neckline
     
    Using the short circular needle pick up and knit 106 sts from around the neckline. Work stockinette stitch in the round for 3 cm. Now knit a round with holes for folding: *k2tog, yarn over*, repeat *-* to end of round. Work stockinette st for 3 cm, then bind off.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Fold the sleeves and the neckline border and sew the edges to the inside.
     
    Sew on the sleeves.
     
    Steam and shape.
    Finished dimensions
    chest circumference 86(92)98(104)110 cm / 33¾(36¼)38½(41)43¼ in
    length 48(50)52(55)58 cm / 19(19¾)20½(21¾)22¾ in
    inner sleeve length 10(11)12(12)13 cm / 4(4¼)4¾(4¾)5 in


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Gauge 26 sts and 38 rows in textured pattern with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in
     
    Note: The 5 st bobble in the textured pattern counts as one stitch.
     
    Tip: When you're decreasing at the bobble, turn the 5 sts into 1 st first: slip 2 sts knitwise, k3tog, pass the slipped sts over.


    Note The 5 st bobble in the textured pattern counts as one stitch.
     
    Tip When you're decreasing at the bobble, turn the 5 sts into 1 st first: slip 2 sts knitwise, k3tog, pass the slipped sts over.
     
     
    The body is knitted in one piece up to the armholes.
     
    Using the smaller circular needle cast on 224(240)256(272)288 sts and work ribbing in the round for 3,5 cm.
     
    Switch to the larger needles and begin the textured pattern on row 1 of the chart. Work the 8 st pattern repeat 28(30)32(34)36 times. Work rows 2-16 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-16.
     
    When the piece measures 29(30)31(33)35 cm and you have last worked an odd-numbered row of the chart, work 106(114)122(130)138 sts in the textured pattern. Note: The 5 st bobble counts as one stitch (n.b. the decreasing tip).  Bind off the next 12 sts, work textured pattern to last 6 sts, bind off the last 6 sts and the first 6 sts of the next round. 100(108)116(124)132 sts remaining on the front and back pieces.
     
    Now knit the top pieces separately.
     
     
    Top back
     
    Work as established with the 100(108)116(124)132 back sts. On every other row bind off 1(2)2(2)2x3 sts, 2(1)1(2)2x2 sts and 2(2)3(3)3x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 82(88)94(98)106 sts. Work textured pattern until the piece measures 17(18)19(20)21 cm from the armhole.
     
    Bind off the middle 40 sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row bind off 2x2 sts at the neckline edge.
     
    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23 cm and you have last worked either row 1 or row 9 of the chart, leave the remaining 17(20)23(25)29 shoulder sts on hold.
     
    Knit the other side in the same manner.
     
     
    Top front
     
    Work like back until the piece measures 11(12)13(14)15 cm from the armhole. Bind off the middle 22 sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row bind off 1x5 sts, 1x3 sts, 1x2 sts and 3x1 st at the neckline edge.
     
    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23 cm and you have last worked either row 1 or row 9 of the chart, leave the remaining 17(20)23(25)29 shoulder sts on hold.
     
    Knit the other side in the same manner.
     
    Shoulder seams: Turn the piece inside out. Move the left shoulder sts back onto the needles and hold the shoulders parallel. Use the three-needle bind-off to join the pieces: knit together the first sts on the needles and slip them off the needles. Work the 2nd pair of sts in the same manner. Pass the first st on the right-hand needle over the second one. Continue until you run out of sts. Alternatively you can bind off all sts and then sew the shoulder seam. Work the other shoulder in the same manner.
     
     
    Sleeves
     
    Using the smaller needles cast on 80(84)88(92)96 sts and divide them onto four needles (if you're using double-pointed needles). Work stockinette stitch in the round for 3 cm. Now knit a round with holes for folding: *k2tog, yarn over*, repeat *-* to end of round. Work stockinette st for 3 cm and increase 0(1)0(1)0 st on the last round = 80(85)88(93)96 sts.
     
    Switch to the larger needles and begin the textured pattern on row 1 of the chart: work the 8 st pattern 10 times (10 times, then work the 5 sts at left) 11 times (11 times, then work the 5 sts at left) 12 times. Work rows 2-16 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-16.
     
    When the sleeve measures 10(11)12(12)13 cm from the fold round and you have last worked an even-numbered row of the chart, work to last 6 sts, bind off the last 6 sts and the first 6 sts of the next round.
     
    On every other round bind off 1x3 sts, 2(1)1(1)1x2 sts, 17(18)20(22)24x1 st and 1(2)2(2)2x3 sts at both ends. Bind off the remaining sts.
     
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
     
    Neckline
     
    Using the short circular needle pick up and knit 106 sts from around the neckline. Work stockinette stitch in the round for 3 cm. Now knit a round with holes for folding: *k2tog, yarn over*, repeat *-* to end of round. Work stockinette st for 3 cm, then bind off.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Fold the sleeves and the neckline border and sew the edges to the inside.
     
    Sew on the sleeves.
     
    Steam and shape.

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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