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Yarn Stories by Sari N: Amelie Cardigan

As low as €6.90

The first pattern from Yarn Stories by Sari N. is a classic cardigan with a few modern mods. Knitted top down, the cardigan is short and has a fair amount of ease. Match with a summer dress or just wrap it around your shoulders on a cool summer night.
Magazine Online pattern
Skill level Intermediate

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Yarn Stories by Sari N: Amelie Cardigan
Yarn Stories by Sari N: Amelie Cardigan

In stock

€6.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU NONL20201
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL

    Yarn demand
    Novita Wool Cotton (172) Jeans 500(550)600(650)700 g


    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) and double-pointed needles (for the sleeves) Novita 3½ mm (US 4) and 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) or sizes needed. When working the sleeves, you can also use a 40 cm (16 in) circular needle until you reach the cuff or the long circular needle if you use the Magic Loop technique https://www.novitaknits.com/fi/fi/tutorials/villasukan-neulominen/magic-loop-tekniikka-eli-luuppaus  
     
    Other supplies 3 buttons


    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details
    Top back
     
    Using the larger needles cast on 103(111)119(127)135 sts. Working flat, begin the textured pattern as instructed.
     
    When the piece measures 22(23)24(25)26 cm, finish on a WS row and leave the sts on hold.
     
     
    Top left front
     
    Using the larger needles pick up 31(35)39(43)47 sts from the left end of the cast-on edge (1 st per st). Work textured pattern flat for 3 cm. On the next RS row increase 2 sts at the neckline edge: k2, k1, yo, k1 into the same st, knit to end = 33(37)41(45)49 sts. Work the increased sts following the pattern. Repeat the increase every 8 rows 8 more times = 49(53)57(61)65 sts.
     
    When the piece measures 24(25)26(27)28 cm, finish on a WS row and leave the sts on hold. The front pieces are longer than the back piece, so that when joining the pieces the shoulder line is on the back.
     
     
    Top right front
     
    Pick up 31(35)39(43)47 sts from the right end of the cast-on edge. Mirror top left front. Work the neckline increases as follows: on a RS row work to last 3 sts, increase as established, k2.
     
    When the piece measures 24(25)26(27)28 cm, finish on a WS row.
     
     
    Body
     
    Join the pieces: work the right front sts, increase 1 st for armhole, place side marker. Knit the back sts. Place other side marker. Increase 1 st for armhole, knit left front sts = 203(219)235(251)267 sts.
     
    With all sts, work textured pattern flat until the body measures 3 cm from the armhole. On a RS row decrease 4 sts at both ends: *knit to last 4 sts before marker, k3tog, k1, slip marker, k2, sk2p (= slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped st over)*, repeat *–*. 8 sts decreased, 195(211)227(243)259 sts on the needles.
     
    Repeat the decreases as before when the body measures 7 cm from the armhole = 187(203)219(235)251 sts.
     
    When the body measures 18(19)20(21)22 cm, switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing with all sts for 5 cm. Bind off in pattern.
     
     
    Sleeves
     
    Using the larger needles pick up and knit 92(96)100(104)108 sts from around the armhole. Distribute the sts onto four double-pointed needles or use the short circular needle. Begin textured pattern in the round as instructed.
     
    When the sleeve measures 19(20)20(21)20 cm, begin decreases on round 1 as follows: k37(39)41(43)45, k3tog, place marker, k11, place marker, sk2p, work to end. 4 sts decreased, 88(92)96(100)104 sts on the needles. Work 3 rounds even.
     
    Decrease round: work to last 3 sts before first marker, k3tog, slip marker, k11, slip marker, sk2p, work to end.
     
    Repeat the decreases every 4th round 11(11)12(12)13 more times = 40(44)44(48)48 sts.
     
    When the sleeve measures 38(39)40(41)41 cm, switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 5 cm. Bind off in pattern.
     
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
     
    Buttonband
     
    Using the smaller needles pick up and knit sts starting at the bottom edge of the right front. Pick up 20 sts per 10 cm along the right front, back neckline and left front. With all sts work stockinette st flat for 1,5 cm. Place markers for 3 buttonholes, the topmost one at the bottom edge of the slanted neckline, the bottom one at the midpoint of the ribbed hem and the third one at the midway point. On the next row bind off 4 sts at each buttonhole and work to end. On the next row cast on 4 new sts where you bound off. When the buttonband measures 3,5 cm, knit the WS row (= fold row for the buttonband). Work until the buttonband measures 2 cm from the fold row, then work another set of buttonholes at the same spots as established. Bind off loosely when the buttonband measures 3,5 cm from the fold row. Fold the buttonband once and sew the bind-off edge to the WS. Sew together the edges of the buttonholes and the bottom ends of the buttonband.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Sew on the buttons.
     
    Steam the finished garment.
    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    Finished measurements
    body circumference 102(110)118(126)134 cm / 40¼(43¼)46½(49½)52¾ in
    length 47(49)51(53)55 cm / 18½(19¼)20(20¾)20¾ in
    inner sleeve length 43(44)45(46)46 cm / 17(17¼)17¾(18)18 in


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns: Ribbing: Row 1 (RS): *k1, p1*, repeat *–* until 1 st remains, k1. Row 2 (WS): *p1, k1*, repeat *–* until 1 st remains, p1. Textured pattern: Row 1 (RS): knit all sts. Row 2 (WS): *p1, k1*, repeat *–* until 1 st remains, p1. Textured pattern in the round: Round 1: knit all sts. Round 2: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. Stockinette stitch: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
    Gauge 20 sts and 28 rows in textured pattern = 10 cm / 4 in
    Note The cardigan is knitted top-down without seams, starting from the back shoulder. The back piece is knitted first down to the bottom of the armhole. The sts for the fronts are picked up from the back shoulder and the pieces are worked down to the bottom of the armhole. Then the pieces are joined and the cardigan is worked in one piece down to the hem. The sleeve sts are picked up from the armholes and the sleeves are knitted in the round.


    Top back
     
    Using the larger needles cast on 103(111)119(127)135 sts. Working flat, begin the textured pattern as instructed.
     
    When the piece measures 22(23)24(25)26 cm, finish on a WS row and leave the sts on hold.
     
     
    Top left front
     
    Using the larger needles pick up 31(35)39(43)47 sts from the left end of the cast-on edge (1 st per st). Work textured pattern flat for 3 cm. On the next RS row increase 2 sts at the neckline edge: k2, k1, yo, k1 into the same st, knit to end = 33(37)41(45)49 sts. Work the increased sts following the pattern. Repeat the increase every 8 rows 8 more times = 49(53)57(61)65 sts.
     
    When the piece measures 24(25)26(27)28 cm, finish on a WS row and leave the sts on hold. The front pieces are longer than the back piece, so that when joining the pieces the shoulder line is on the back.
     
     
    Top right front
     
    Pick up 31(35)39(43)47 sts from the right end of the cast-on edge. Mirror top left front. Work the neckline increases as follows: on a RS row work to last 3 sts, increase as established, k2.
     
    When the piece measures 24(25)26(27)28 cm, finish on a WS row.
     
     
    Body
     
    Join the pieces: work the right front sts, increase 1 st for armhole, place side marker. Knit the back sts. Place other side marker. Increase 1 st for armhole, knit left front sts = 203(219)235(251)267 sts.
     
    With all sts, work textured pattern flat until the body measures 3 cm from the armhole. On a RS row decrease 4 sts at both ends: *knit to last 4 sts before marker, k3tog, k1, slip marker, k2, sk2p (= slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped st over)*, repeat *–*. 8 sts decreased, 195(211)227(243)259 sts on the needles.
     
    Repeat the decreases as before when the body measures 7 cm from the armhole = 187(203)219(235)251 sts.
     
    When the body measures 18(19)20(21)22 cm, switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing with all sts for 5 cm. Bind off in pattern.
     
     
    Sleeves
     
    Using the larger needles pick up and knit 92(96)100(104)108 sts from around the armhole. Distribute the sts onto four double-pointed needles or use the short circular needle. Begin textured pattern in the round as instructed.
     
    When the sleeve measures 19(20)20(21)20 cm, begin decreases on round 1 as follows: k37(39)41(43)45, k3tog, place marker, k11, place marker, sk2p, work to end. 4 sts decreased, 88(92)96(100)104 sts on the needles. Work 3 rounds even.
     
    Decrease round: work to last 3 sts before first marker, k3tog, slip marker, k11, slip marker, sk2p, work to end.
     
    Repeat the decreases every 4th round 11(11)12(12)13 more times = 40(44)44(48)48 sts.
     
    When the sleeve measures 38(39)40(41)41 cm, switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 5 cm. Bind off in pattern.
     
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
     
    Buttonband
     
    Using the smaller needles pick up and knit sts starting at the bottom edge of the right front. Pick up 20 sts per 10 cm along the right front, back neckline and left front. With all sts work stockinette st flat for 1,5 cm. Place markers for 3 buttonholes, the topmost one at the bottom edge of the slanted neckline, the bottom one at the midpoint of the ribbed hem and the third one at the midway point. On the next row bind off 4 sts at each buttonhole and work to end. On the next row cast on 4 new sts where you bound off. When the buttonband measures 3,5 cm, knit the WS row (= fold row for the buttonband). Work until the buttonband measures 2 cm from the fold row, then work another set of buttonholes at the same spots as established. Bind off loosely when the buttonband measures 3,5 cm from the fold row. Fold the buttonband once and sew the bind-off edge to the WS. Sew together the edges of the buttonholes and the bottom ends of the buttonband.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Sew on the buttons.
     
    Steam the finished garment.

    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

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