Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Woodsman cable cardigan Novita Natura
As low as €5.95
Symmetry is the norm, especially when cables are concerned. Sleeves alike, the back side and half the front are knitted in grey Novita Natura. And to double up the assymmetry, the cable patterns in the front halves are different.
Novita Talvi 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
20
Expert
Availability: In stock
N041920
Size
S(M)L(XL)XXLYarn demand
Novita NaturaOff White 350(350)400(400)450 g
Clay approx. 300(300)350(350)400 g
Needles and other supplies
Needles:Novita 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) or size needed to obtain gauge
Other supplies:
4 buttons
Designer
Varpu RapeliBack
Using Clay cast on 102(110)118(126)134 sts and begin ribbing with k1 (WS). Work ribbing for 8 cm.
Begin the cable pattern on row 1 of chart I. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Keep repeating the 20 st pattern as needed. Work rows 2-42 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-42.
When the piece measures 38(39)40(42)43 cm, on every other row bind off 1x4(4)6(6)8 sts, 1(2)2(3)3x2 sts and 4x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 82(86)90(94)98 sts.
When the armhole measures 23(24)25(25)26 cm, on every other row bind off 3x4 sts and 2x5 sts (1x4 sts and 4x5 sts) 4x5 sts and 1x6 sts (2x5 sts and 3x6 sts) 5x6 sts at both ends.
Note: When the armhole measures 25(26)27(27)28 cm, bind off the middle 28 sts for the neckline. Work one shoulder at a time. On every other row bind off 1x3 sts and 1x2 sts at the neckline edge.
Knit the other side in the same manner.
Left front
Using Clay cast on 57(61)65(69)73 sts and begin ribbing with p1 (WS).
When the ribbing measures 2 cm, make a buttonhole at the left end (front edge): on a RS row work to last 5 sts, yo, work 2 sts together, work to end.
When the ribbing measures approx. 8 cm and you have last worked a WS row, leave 8 sts at the left end on hold for the border. 49(53)57(61)65 sts now on the needles.
Begin the cable pattern on row 1 of chart II. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Repeat the 20 st pattern 1(1)1(2)2 time(s), work the 18 sts at the left end, cast on 1 st = 50(54)58(62)66 sts.
Keep working 1 st at left in garter st. Work rows 2-42 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-42.
When the piece measures 38(39)40(42)43 cm, on every other row bind off 1x4(4)6(6)8 sts, 1(2)2(3)3x2 sts and 4x1 st at the right end for the armhole = 40(42)44(46)48 sts.
When the armhole measures 2 cm, begin neckline decreases at the left end: on a RS row work to last 2 sts, k2tog. Repeat the decreases every 2 cm 4(5)6(6)7 more times and then 13(12)11(11)10 times every 1 cm.
When the armhole measures 23(24)25(25)26 cm, on every other row bind off 3x4 sts and 2x5 sts (1x4 sts and 4x5 sts) 4x5 sts and 1x6 sts (2x5 sts and 3x6 sts) 5x6 sts at the right end.
Right front
Using Off White cast on 57(61)65(69)73 sts and begin ribbing with p1 (WS).
When the ribbing measures approx. 8 cm and you have last worked a WS row, leave 8 sts at the right end on hold for the border. 49(53)57(61)65 sts now on the needles.
Begin the cable pattern on row 1 of chart III: cast on 1 st, work 2 sts in reverse stockinette st, work section A 3 times (= 9 sts), section B (= 28 sts), section C 3(4)6(7)8 times [= 9(12)18(21)24 sts], work 1(2)0(1)2 st(s) in reverse stockinette st = 50(54)58(62)66 sts. Keep working 1 st at the right end in garter st. Keep repeating rows 2-13 of the chart.
When the piece measures 38(39)40(42)43 cm, on every other row bind off 1x4(4)6(6)8 sts, 1(2)2(3)3x2 sts and 4x1 st at the left end for the armhole = 40(42)44(46)48 sts.
When the armhole measures 2 cm, begin neckline decreases at the right end: on a RS row k2tog through back loop, work to end. Repeat the decreases every 2 cm 4(5)6(6)7 more times and then 13(12)11(11)10 times every 1 cm.
When the armhole measures 23(24)25(25)26 cm, on every other row bind off 3x4 sts and 2x5 sts (1x4 sts and 4x5 sts) 4x5 sts and 1x6 sts (2x5 sts and 3x6 sts) 5x6 sts at the left end.
Sleeves
Using Off White cast on 44(44)46(46)48 sts and work ribbing for 8 cm.
Begin the cable pattern on row 1 of chart III: work 2(2)0(0)1 st(s) in reverse stockinette st, work section A 2(2)3(3)3 times [= 6(6)9(9)9 sts], section B (= 28 sts), section C 2(2)3(3)3 times [= 6(6)9(9)9 sts], work 2(2)0(0)1 st(s) in reverse stockinette st. Keep repeating rows 2-13 of the chart.
When the piece measures 10 cm, begin increases at both ends as follows:
1st increase row: (RS) work 6(6)4(4)5 sts, increase 1 knit st (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last 6(6)4(4)5 sts, increase 1 knit st, work to end = 46(46)48(48)50 sts.
Work the WS row.
2nd increase row: (RS) work 7(7)5(5)6 sts, increase 1 knit st, work to last 7(7)5(5)6 sts, increase 1 knit st, work to end = 48(48)50(50)52 sts.
Work the WS row.
3rd increase row: (RS) work 8(8)6(6)7 sts, increase 1 purl st (= purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last 8(8)6(6)7 sts, increase 1 purl st, work to end = 50(50)52(52)54 sts.
Work the WS row.
6 sts increased in 6 rows (approx. 2 cm): a 2 st cable and 1 purl st between the cables at both ends.
Repeat the increases every 4,5(3,5)3,5(3,5)3 cm 5(6)6(6)7 more times = 80(86)88(88)96 sts.
When the piece measures 47(48)49(50)51 cm, on every other row bind off 1x4(4)5(5)7 sts, 1(1)0(0)0x3 sts, 0(0)1(1)1x2 sts, 17(18)20(20)21x1 st and 4x3 sts at both ends. Bind off remaining sts.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry. Sew the shoulder seams and side seams.
Border: Place the 8 right front sts (Off White piece) onto the needles and work in ribbing. On the first row cast on 1 st for seaming at the bodice end = 9 sts. Sew the border to the front edge, lightly stretching it. When the border reaches the shoulder, leave the sts on hold.
Place markers for buttons on the border. The topmost button should be at the starting point of the slanted neckline, the lowest one 2 cm from the hem and the other 2 evenly in between.
Now place the 8 left front sts (Clay piece) onto the needles and work in ribbing. On the first row cast on 1 st for seaming at the bodice end = 9 sts. Make buttonholes at the marked spots as established.
Sew the border to the front piece and the back neckline. Stitch or sew the 9 st seam at the right shoulder.
Sew the sleeve seams and attach the sleeves. Sew on the buttons.
Finished dimensions
body circumference 100(108)116(124)132 cm / 39¼(42½)45¾(48¾)52 in length 65(67)69(71)73 cm / 25½(26½)27¼(28)28¾ in inner sleeve length 47(48)49(50)51 cm / 18½(19)19¼(19¾)20 inStitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:- Ribbing:
*k1, p1*, repeat *-*. On the wrong side rows
Back
Using Clay cast on 102(110)118(126)134 sts and begin ribbing with k1 (WS). Work ribbing for 8 cm.
Begin the cable pattern on row 1 of chart I. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Keep repeating the 20 st pattern as needed. Work rows 2-42 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-42.
When the piece measures 38(39)40(42)43 cm, on every other row bind off 1x4(4)6(6)8 sts, 1(2)2(3)3x2 sts and 4x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 82(86)90(94)98 sts.
When the armhole measures 23(24)25(25)26 cm, on every other row bind off 3x4 sts and 2x5 sts (1x4 sts and 4x5 sts) 4x5 sts and 1x6 sts (2x5 sts and 3x6 sts) 5x6 sts at both ends.
Note: When the armhole measures 25(26)27(27)28 cm, bind off the middle 28 sts for the neckline. Work one shoulder at a time. On every other row bind off 1x3 sts and 1x2 sts at the neckline edge.
Knit the other side in the same manner.
Left front
Using Clay cast on 57(61)65(69)73 sts and begin ribbing with p1 (WS).
When the ribbing measures 2 cm, make a buttonhole at the left end (front edge): on a RS row work to last 5 sts, yo, work 2 sts together, work to end.
When the ribbing measures approx. 8 cm and you have last worked a WS row, leave 8 sts at the left end on hold for the border. 49(53)57(61)65 sts now on the needles.
Begin the cable pattern on row 1 of chart II. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Repeat the 20 st pattern 1(1)1(2)2 time(s), work the 18 sts at the left end, cast on 1 st = 50(54)58(62)66 sts.
Keep working 1 st at left in garter st. Work rows 2-42 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-42.
When the piece measures 38(39)40(42)43 cm, on every other row bind off 1x4(4)6(6)8 sts, 1(2)2(3)3x2 sts and 4x1 st at the right end for the armhole = 40(42)44(46)48 sts.
When the armhole measures 2 cm, begin neckline decreases at the left end: on a RS row work to last 2 sts, k2tog. Repeat the decreases every 2 cm 4(5)6(6)7 more times and then 13(12)11(11)10 times every 1 cm.
When the armhole measures 23(24)25(25)26 cm, on every other row bind off 3x4 sts and 2x5 sts (1x4 sts and 4x5 sts) 4x5 sts and 1x6 sts (2x5 sts and 3x6 sts) 5x6 sts at the right end.
Right front
Using Off White cast on 57(61)65(69)73 sts and begin ribbing with p1 (WS).
When the ribbing measures approx. 8 cm and you have last worked a WS row, leave 8 sts at the right end on hold for the border. 49(53)57(61)65 sts now on the needles.
Begin the cable pattern on row 1 of chart III: cast on 1 st, work 2 sts in reverse stockinette st, work section A 3 times (= 9 sts), section B (= 28 sts), section C 3(4)6(7)8 times [= 9(12)18(21)24 sts], work 1(2)0(1)2 st(s) in reverse stockinette st = 50(54)58(62)66 sts. Keep working 1 st at the right end in garter st. Keep repeating rows 2-13 of the chart.
When the piece measures 38(39)40(42)43 cm, on every other row bind off 1x4(4)6(6)8 sts, 1(2)2(3)3x2 sts and 4x1 st at the left end for the armhole = 40(42)44(46)48 sts.
When the armhole measures 2 cm, begin neckline decreases at the right end: on a RS row k2tog through back loop, work to end. Repeat the decreases every 2 cm 4(5)6(6)7 more times and then 13(12)11(11)10 times every 1 cm.
When the armhole measures 23(24)25(25)26 cm, on every other row bind off 3x4 sts and 2x5 sts (1x4 sts and 4x5 sts) 4x5 sts and 1x6 sts (2x5 sts and 3x6 sts) 5x6 sts at the left end.
Sleeves
Using Off White cast on 44(44)46(46)48 sts and work ribbing for 8 cm.
Begin the cable pattern on row 1 of chart III: work 2(2)0(0)1 st(s) in reverse stockinette st, work section A 2(2)3(3)3 times [= 6(6)9(9)9 sts], section B (= 28 sts), section C 2(2)3(3)3 times [= 6(6)9(9)9 sts], work 2(2)0(0)1 st(s) in reverse stockinette st. Keep repeating rows 2-13 of the chart.
When the piece measures 10 cm, begin increases at both ends as follows:
1st increase row: (RS) work 6(6)4(4)5 sts, increase 1 knit st (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last 6(6)4(4)5 sts, increase 1 knit st, work to end = 46(46)48(48)50 sts.
Work the WS row.
2nd increase row: (RS) work 7(7)5(5)6 sts, increase 1 knit st, work to last 7(7)5(5)6 sts, increase 1 knit st, work to end = 48(48)50(50)52 sts.
Work the WS row.
3rd increase row: (RS) work 8(8)6(6)7 sts, increase 1 purl st (= purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last 8(8)6(6)7 sts, increase 1 purl st, work to end = 50(50)52(52)54 sts.
Work the WS row.
6 sts increased in 6 rows (approx. 2 cm): a 2 st cable and 1 purl st between the cables at both ends.
Repeat the increases every 4,5(3,5)3,5(3,5)3 cm 5(6)6(6)7 more times = 80(86)88(88)96 sts.
When the piece measures 47(48)49(50)51 cm, on every other row bind off 1x4(4)5(5)7 sts, 1(1)0(0)0x3 sts, 0(0)1(1)1x2 sts, 17(18)20(20)21x1 st and 4x3 sts at both ends. Bind off remaining sts.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry. Sew the shoulder seams and side seams.
Border: Place the 8 right front sts (Off White piece) onto the needles and work in ribbing. On the first row cast on 1 st for seaming at the bodice end = 9 sts. Sew the border to the front edge, lightly stretching it. When the border reaches the shoulder, leave the sts on hold.
Place markers for buttons on the border. The topmost button should be at the starting point of the slanted neckline, the lowest one 2 cm from the hem and the other 2 evenly in between.
Now place the 8 left front sts (Clay piece) onto the needles and work in ribbing. On the first row cast on 1 st for seaming at the bodice end = 9 sts. Make buttonholes at the marked spots as established.
Sew the border to the front piece and the back neckline. Stitch or sew the 9 st seam at the right shoulder.
Sew the sleeve seams and attach the sleeves. Sew on the buttons.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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