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Women’s Poncho Vest Novita 7 Brothers and Nalle

Women’s Poncho Vest Novita 7 Brothers and Nalle

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This off white lacy poncho vest is made of two identical pieces.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2016 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 6
Skill level Intermediate
Women’s Poncho Vest Novita 7 Brothers and Nalle
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Women’s Poncho Vest Novita 7 Brothers and Nalle
Women’s Poncho Vest Novita 7 Brothers and Nalle

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N03166
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS/S(M)L(XL)XXL

    Yarn demand
    Novita 7 Veljestä (7 Brothers)
    A - off white 500 (550) 600 (650) 700 g
    Novita Nalle
    B - off white slightly less than 100 (100) 100 (100) 100 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Needles:
    1 Pair of 4.5 mm Novita knitting needles
    1 x 3.0 mm Novita crochet hook for the hem border
    Or the size required to give the correct tension

    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Details

    Back

    Using yarn A CO 103 (111) 117 (125) 131 sts. Work 7 rows in g st and then 2 rows in st st.

    Start following the lace chart from row 40 (28) 28 (10) 10: start reading the chart from right to left and work the first two sts as shown, continue repeating the two st repeat for 50 (54) 57 (61 (64) times and then work the last st at the left edge of the chart as shown. Work rows 41 (29) 29 (11) 11 – 60 of the chart and continue by repeating rows 31–60.

    When back measures 34 (38) 37 (42) 41 cm, increase for armholes:

    Next row: Work 1 st in pattern, increase 1 st, work in pattern until you have 1 st left, increase 1 st, work the last st in pattern.

    Repeat these increases every 3 cm 4 more times = 113 (121) 127 (135) 141 sts. Take the increased sts into lace pattern.

    When back measures 49 (53) 53 (58) 58 cm and you have just finished row 39 (37) 37 (37) 37 of the chart, start shaping shoulders: cast off 2 (3) 3 (3) 3 sts at the beginning of next 28 (2) 8 (14) 20 rows and then 0 (2) 2 (2) 2 sts at the beginning of next 0 (28) 22 (16) 10 rows.

    Cast off the remaining 57 (59) 59 (61) 61 sts for back neck.

    Front

    Work as back.

    Finishing

    Lay pieces to correct measurements on a flat surface with the WS facing up, wet with a spray bottle and let dry.

    Join shoulder and side seams.

    Hem border: Take yarn B and start working the crochet border beginning at either side seam:

    Row 1: (treble cross stitch) 2ch, miss 1 hem st and make 1tr into next hem st, 5ch and 1 tr into the tr just made (= 1 treble cross st), **yarn over hook (yoh) twice, insert the hook into the same hem st as the previous tr, yoh and pull through, yoh and pull through 2 sts; you have now 3 sts on the hook. Yoh, miss 1 hem st and insert the hook into next hem st, yoh and pull through. *Yoh and pull through 2 sts*, repeat *-* three more times. 1ch and 1tr into halfway down the group of tr sts you have just made (this finishes off the X-like assembly of treble stitches)**. Repeat **-** so that there will be 100 (110) 115 (125) 130 treble cross sts in total and join into round with 1ss.

    Work triangles following the stitch diagram:

    First triangle

    Row 2: 1ch, 1dc into next chain of the treble cross st from the previous round, *5ch, 1dc into next chain*, repeat *-* 3 more times, 2ch and 1tr into next chain. Turn work.

    Row 3: *5ch, 1dc into next chain space*, repeat *-* 2 more times, 2ch, 1tr into chain space. Turn work.

    Work rows 4–6 as shown in the stitch diagram. Cut yarn leaving an end of about 12 cm to be included into fringe later.

    Second triangle

    Work 1dh into same chain of the treble cross st as the tr of the previous triangle (see the diagram), and work rows 2–6 as for the first triangle.

    Work altogether 20 (22) 23 (25) 26 triangles for the hem.

    Fringe: For one fringe tassel cut 6 strands of yarn of about 25 cm each. Keeping the strands together fold them in half, pull the folded end through the tip of one hem triangle, then pull the loose ends through the folded end and tighten up. Attach one tassel at the tip of each hem triangle.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    Body circumference 112 (120) 128 (136) 144 cm Length 58 (62) 62 (67) 67 cm + 16 cm for the crocheted hem and fringe

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns:
    -Garter stitch
    All rows: K to end.
    - Stocking stitch
    Row 1: K to end.
    Row 2: P to end.
    Repeat these 2 rows.
    - Lace stitch
    Follow the chart and written instructions.

    Crochet stitch pattern:
    Follow the stitch diagram and written instructions.

    Tension:
    18 sts and 30 rows in lace stitch pattern using yarn A = 10 cm square


    Back

    Using yarn A CO 103 (111) 117 (125) 131 sts. Work 7 rows in g st and then 2 rows in st st.

    Start following the lace chart from row 40 (28) 28 (10) 10: start reading the chart from right to left and work the first two sts as shown, continue repeating the two st repeat for 50 (54) 57 (61 (64) times and then work the last st at the left edge of the chart as shown. Work rows 41 (29) 29 (11) 11 – 60 of the chart and continue by repeating rows 31–60.

    When back measures 34 (38) 37 (42) 41 cm, increase for armholes:

    Next row: Work 1 st in pattern, increase 1 st, work in pattern until you have 1 st left, increase 1 st, work the last st in pattern.

    Repeat these increases every 3 cm 4 more times = 113 (121) 127 (135) 141 sts. Take the increased sts into lace pattern.

    When back measures 49 (53) 53 (58) 58 cm and you have just finished row 39 (37) 37 (37) 37 of the chart, start shaping shoulders: cast off 2 (3) 3 (3) 3 sts at the beginning of next 28 (2) 8 (14) 20 rows and then 0 (2) 2 (2) 2 sts at the beginning of next 0 (28) 22 (16) 10 rows.

    Cast off the remaining 57 (59) 59 (61) 61 sts for back neck.

    Front

    Work as back.

    Finishing

    Lay pieces to correct measurements on a flat surface with the WS facing up, wet with a spray bottle and let dry.

    Join shoulder and side seams.

    Hem border: Take yarn B and start working the crochet border beginning at either side seam:

    Row 1: (treble cross stitch) 2ch, miss 1 hem st and make 1tr into next hem st, 5ch and 1 tr into the tr just made (= 1 treble cross st), **yarn over hook (yoh) twice, insert the hook into the same hem st as the previous tr, yoh and pull through, yoh and pull through 2 sts; you have now 3 sts on the hook. Yoh, miss 1 hem st and insert the hook into next hem st, yoh and pull through. *Yoh and pull through 2 sts*, repeat *-* three more times. 1ch and 1tr into halfway down the group of tr sts you have just made (this finishes off the X-like assembly of treble stitches)**. Repeat **-** so that there will be 100 (110) 115 (125) 130 treble cross sts in total and join into round with 1ss.

    Work triangles following the stitch diagram:

    First triangle

    Row 2: 1ch, 1dc into next chain of the treble cross st from the previous round, *5ch, 1dc into next chain*, repeat *-* 3 more times, 2ch and 1tr into next chain. Turn work.

    Row 3: *5ch, 1dc into next chain space*, repeat *-* 2 more times, 2ch, 1tr into chain space. Turn work.

    Work rows 4–6 as shown in the stitch diagram. Cut yarn leaving an end of about 12 cm to be included into fringe later.

    Second triangle

    Work 1dh into same chain of the treble cross st as the tr of the previous triangle (see the diagram), and work rows 2–6 as for the first triangle.

    Work altogether 20 (22) 23 (25) 26 triangles for the hem.

    Fringe: For one fringe tassel cut 6 strands of yarn of about 25 cm each. Keeping the strands together fold them in half, pull the folded end through the tip of one hem triangle, then pull the loose ends through the folded end and tighten up. Attach one tassel at the tip of each hem triangle.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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