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Women’s Long Cardigan Novita Kajo and 7 Brothers Raita

Women’s Long Cardigan Novita Kajo and 7 Brothers Raita

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Two different lines of variegated yarn have been used for this richly textured moss stitch cardigan.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2016 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 8
Skill level Intermediate
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N03168
Pattern details
Size
XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)

Yarn demand
Novita Kajo
A - grey-brown 450 (500) 550 (600) 650 (700) g
and
Novita 7 Veljestä Raita (7 Brothers Raita)
B - flax field 150 (150) 200 (200) 250 (250) g

Needles and other supplies
Needles:
1 pair of 6.0 mm Novita knitting needles
Or the size required to give the correct tension

Notions:
7 buttons

Designer
Lea Petäjä

Details

Back

Take yarn A and cast on 74 (82) 86 (90) 98 (102) sts. Start working in rib on the WS of the work by starting with p2 (k2) k2 (p2) k2 (k2). Work 3 cm in rib. Change to moss stitch and on the first row decrease evenly 0 (2) 0 (0) 2 (0) sts = 74 (80) 86 (90) 96 (102) sts.

When the work measures 9 (10) 10 (11) 11 (12) cm from the bottom, start alternating yarn B and yarn A by working 2 rows with yarn B and 2 rows with yarn A. After you have worked 5 stripes with yarn B, continue working with only yarn A.

When the work measures 11 (12) 12 (13) 13 (14) cm, decrease 1 st at each end of the following row. Repeat these decreases every 5 cm for 8 (8) 8 (8) 7 (7) times more = 56 (62) 68 (72) 80 (86) sts.

When the work measures 24 (25) 25 (26) 26 (27) cm, start alternating Yarn B and Yarn A by working 2 rows with yarn B and 2 rows with Yarn A until you have worked 4 stripes with yarn B. Work 7 cm with only Yarn A. Start alternating Yarn B and Yarn A by working 2 rows with yarn B and 2 rows with Yarn A until you have worked 6 stripes with yarn B. Work 7 cm with only Yarn A. Start alternating Yarn B and Yarn A by working 2 rows with yarn B and 2 rows with Yarn A until you have worked 4 stripes with yarn B. Work the rest of the piece with only Yarn A.

Note! When the work measures 60 (61) 62 (63) 65 (66) cm, start armhole shaping: cast off 3 (3) 4 (4) 4 (4) sts at the beginning of next 2 rows and then 1 st at the beginning next 6 (6) 8 (8) 8 (8) rows = 44 (50) 52 (56) 64 (70) sts.

Work straight until the armhole measures 19 (20) 21 (22) 22 (23) cm. Then, cast off all sts making sure that you cast off the 18 centre sts for neckline rather tightly.

Left front

Take Yarn A and cast on 40 (42) 46 (48) 50 (54) sts. Start working in rib: k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *-* to end (this will be the wrong side of the work; note that the stitch count of the repeat and the total number of stitches won’t match in all sizes). Continue by working 3 cm in rib except for the 2 front edge stitches (= the left edge of the work) which are worked in garter stitch throughout. After finishing the rib, change to moss stitch except for the 2 st garter stitch edge at the front edge.

Work by alternating Yarn B and Yarn A in the same manner as for back.

When the work measures 11 (12) 12 (13) 13 (14) cm from the bottom, decrease 1 st at the right edge. Repeat this decrease every 5 cm for 8 (8) 8 (8) 7 (7) times more = 31 (33) 37 (39) 42 (46) sts.

When the work measures 56 (57) 58 (59) 61 (62) cm, keeping the pattern correct start shaping the neckline by decreasing 1 st at the front edge: when working on the RS of the work, work in moss stitch until there are 3 sts on the needle, k2tog, k1. Repeat this decrease on every 4th row for 11 (10) 11 (11) 10 (11) times more.

Note! When the work measures 60 (61) 62 (63) 65 (66) cm, start shaping the armhole: keeping the pattern correct, cast off 3 (3) 4 (4) 4 (4) sts at the beginning of the next RS row. Work 1 row. Continue by casting off 1 st at the beginning of next 3 (3) 4 (4) 4 (4) RS rows.

When the armhole measures 19 (20) 21 (22) 22 (23) cm, cast off 13 (16) 17 (19) 23 (26) sts for shoulder.

Next, mark the positions for the buttons at the front edge: the top one will be at the start of front slope shaping and the rest ca. 9 cm apart from each other down the front edge.

Right front

Work to match the left front, reversing the shapings. At the same time work button holes at the positions marked on the left front: on the right side of the work and starting from the front edge, work 4 sts, yo, k/p2tog (keeping the moss stitch pattern correct) and work in moss stitch to end.

For neckline shaping, use left slanting skp decreases instead of k2tog (skp = slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch).

Sleeves

(make 2)

Take Yarn A and cast on 34 (36) 36 (38) 40 (40) sts. Work 3 cm in rib. Change to moss stitch and work straight until the work measures 8 (8) 9 (9) 10 (10) cm. Start alternating Yarn B and Yarn A by working 2 rows with yarn B and 2 rows with Yarn A until you have worked 6 stripes with yarn B. Continue working with only Yarn A.

Note! When the work measures 11 (12) 9 (10) 12 (11) cm from the bottom, increase 1 st at both ends of the next row. Repeat these increases at both ends every 6 (6) 5 (5) 5.5 (5) cm for 5 (5) 7 (7) 6 (7) times more = 46 (48) 52 (54) 54 (56) sts.

When the work measures 23 (23) 24 (24) 25 (25) cm, start alternating Yarn B and Yarn A by working 2 rows with yarn B and 2 rows with Yarn A until you have worked 3 stripes with yarn B. Work the rest of the piece with only Yarn A.

When the work measures 47 (48) 49 (50) 50 (51) cm, cast off 3 (3) 4 (4) 4 (4) sts at the beginning of next 2 rows and then 1 sts at the beginning of next 6 (6) 8 (8) 8 (8) rows. Cast off all sts.

Finishing

Lay the pieces on a flat surface with the WS facing, wet with a spray bottle and let dry. Join shoulder seams.

Join sleeve tops into armholes matching the points marked with red colour in the drawing.

Join side and sleeve seams.

Pockets (make 2): Take Yarn A and cast on 27 sts. Work in moss stitch and at the same time alternate Yarn A and yarn B by working 2 rows with Yarn A and 2 rows with yarn B. When the work measures about 19 cm and you have just finished a row with Yarn A, cast off all sts.

Sew the pockets onto the front pieces so that they are about 8 (8) 8 (9) 9 (10) cm from the front edge and 14 (15) 15 (16) 16 (17) cm from the hem edge.

Sew buttons on the left front edge.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
Body circumference 82(90)98(106)116(126) cm Length of the garment 79(81)83(85)87(89) cm Underarm sleeve 47(48)49(50)50(51)cm

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:
- 2x2 rib stitch:
Row 1: *K2, p2*, repeat *-* to end.
Row 2: *K2, p2*, repeat *-* to end.
Repeat these 2 rows.
- Moss stitch:
Row 1: *K1, p1*, repeat *-* to end.
Row 2: *P1, k1*, repeat *-* to end.
Repeat these 2 rows.
- Garter stitch:
All rows: K to end.

Tension:
13.5 sts and 24 rows over moss stitch = 10 cm square


Back

Take yarn A and cast on 74 (82) 86 (90) 98 (102) sts. Start working in rib on the WS of the work by starting with p2 (k2) k2 (p2) k2 (k2). Work 3 cm in rib. Change to moss stitch and on the first row decrease evenly 0 (2) 0 (0) 2 (0) sts = 74 (80) 86 (90) 96 (102) sts.

When the work measures 9 (10) 10 (11) 11 (12) cm from the bottom, start alternating yarn B and yarn A by working 2 rows with yarn B and 2 rows with yarn A. After you have worked 5 stripes with yarn B, continue working with only yarn A.

When the work measures 11 (12) 12 (13) 13 (14) cm, decrease 1 st at each end of the following row. Repeat these decreases every 5 cm for 8 (8) 8 (8) 7 (7) times more = 56 (62) 68 (72) 80 (86) sts.

When the work measures 24 (25) 25 (26) 26 (27) cm, start alternating Yarn B and Yarn A by working 2 rows with yarn B and 2 rows with Yarn A until you have worked 4 stripes with yarn B. Work 7 cm with only Yarn A. Start alternating Yarn B and Yarn A by working 2 rows with yarn B and 2 rows with Yarn A until you have worked 6 stripes with yarn B. Work 7 cm with only Yarn A. Start alternating Yarn B and Yarn A by working 2 rows with yarn B and 2 rows with Yarn A until you have worked 4 stripes with yarn B. Work the rest of the piece with only Yarn A.

Note! When the work measures 60 (61) 62 (63) 65 (66) cm, start armhole shaping: cast off 3 (3) 4 (4) 4 (4) sts at the beginning of next 2 rows and then 1 st at the beginning next 6 (6) 8 (8) 8 (8) rows = 44 (50) 52 (56) 64 (70) sts.

Work straight until the armhole measures 19 (20) 21 (22) 22 (23) cm. Then, cast off all sts making sure that you cast off the 18 centre sts for neckline rather tightly.

Left front

Take Yarn A and cast on 40 (42) 46 (48) 50 (54) sts. Start working in rib: k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *-* to end (this will be the wrong side of the work; note that the stitch count of the repeat and the total number of stitches won’t match in all sizes). Continue by working 3 cm in rib except for the 2 front edge stitches (= the left edge of the work) which are worked in garter stitch throughout. After finishing the rib, change to moss stitch except for the 2 st garter stitch edge at the front edge.

Work by alternating Yarn B and Yarn A in the same manner as for back.

When the work measures 11 (12) 12 (13) 13 (14) cm from the bottom, decrease 1 st at the right edge. Repeat this decrease every 5 cm for 8 (8) 8 (8) 7 (7) times more = 31 (33) 37 (39) 42 (46) sts.

When the work measures 56 (57) 58 (59) 61 (62) cm, keeping the pattern correct start shaping the neckline by decreasing 1 st at the front edge: when working on the RS of the work, work in moss stitch until there are 3 sts on the needle, k2tog, k1. Repeat this decrease on every 4th row for 11 (10) 11 (11) 10 (11) times more.

Note! When the work measures 60 (61) 62 (63) 65 (66) cm, start shaping the armhole: keeping the pattern correct, cast off 3 (3) 4 (4) 4 (4) sts at the beginning of the next RS row. Work 1 row. Continue by casting off 1 st at the beginning of next 3 (3) 4 (4) 4 (4) RS rows.

When the armhole measures 19 (20) 21 (22) 22 (23) cm, cast off 13 (16) 17 (19) 23 (26) sts for shoulder.

Next, mark the positions for the buttons at the front edge: the top one will be at the start of front slope shaping and the rest ca. 9 cm apart from each other down the front edge.

Right front

Work to match the left front, reversing the shapings. At the same time work button holes at the positions marked on the left front: on the right side of the work and starting from the front edge, work 4 sts, yo, k/p2tog (keeping the moss stitch pattern correct) and work in moss stitch to end.

For neckline shaping, use left slanting skp decreases instead of k2tog (skp = slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch).

Sleeves

(make 2)

Take Yarn A and cast on 34 (36) 36 (38) 40 (40) sts. Work 3 cm in rib. Change to moss stitch and work straight until the work measures 8 (8) 9 (9) 10 (10) cm. Start alternating Yarn B and Yarn A by working 2 rows with yarn B and 2 rows with Yarn A until you have worked 6 stripes with yarn B. Continue working with only Yarn A.

Note! When the work measures 11 (12) 9 (10) 12 (11) cm from the bottom, increase 1 st at both ends of the next row. Repeat these increases at both ends every 6 (6) 5 (5) 5.5 (5) cm for 5 (5) 7 (7) 6 (7) times more = 46 (48) 52 (54) 54 (56) sts.

When the work measures 23 (23) 24 (24) 25 (25) cm, start alternating Yarn B and Yarn A by working 2 rows with yarn B and 2 rows with Yarn A until you have worked 3 stripes with yarn B. Work the rest of the piece with only Yarn A.

When the work measures 47 (48) 49 (50) 50 (51) cm, cast off 3 (3) 4 (4) 4 (4) sts at the beginning of next 2 rows and then 1 sts at the beginning of next 6 (6) 8 (8) 8 (8) rows. Cast off all sts.

Finishing

Lay the pieces on a flat surface with the WS facing, wet with a spray bottle and let dry. Join shoulder seams.

Join sleeve tops into armholes matching the points marked with red colour in the drawing.

Join side and sleeve seams.

Pockets (make 2): Take Yarn A and cast on 27 sts. Work in moss stitch and at the same time alternate Yarn A and yarn B by working 2 rows with Yarn A and 2 rows with yarn B. When the work measures about 19 cm and you have just finished a row with Yarn A, cast off all sts.

Sew the pockets onto the front pieces so that they are about 8 (8) 8 (9) 9 (10) cm from the front edge and 14 (15) 15 (16) 16 (17) cm from the hem edge.

Sew buttons on the left front edge.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

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With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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