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Women’s crocheted sweater Novita Baby Merino

Women’s crocheted sweater Novita Baby Merino

As low as €0.00

Our new Baby Merino yarn is a great choice for adults’ garments as well. The yarn has been spun and twisted so that it is somewhat strechy, which makes it very pleasant to use.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 43
Skill level Intermediate
Women’s crocheted sweater Novita Baby Merino
€4.90
€4.90
€4.90
€4.90
€4.90
€4.90

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Women’s crocheted sweater Novita Baby Merino
Women’s crocheted sweater Novita Baby Merino

In stock

€0.00

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N031843
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Baby Merino
    (011) White 250(300)350(400)450(500) g

    Needles and other supplies
    Crochet hook:
    Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US C-2) or
    size needed to obtain gauge.

    Designer
    Saara Toikka

    Details

    Back

    Chain 111(120)129(141)150(159) to form the beginning chain.

    Row 1 (see chart I): Ch3 (= 1st tr), work 1 tr into the 4th ch st from the hook and 1 tr into each ch st in the beginning chain = 112(121)130(142)151(160) trs. Continue to crochet following the chart. Keep repeating rows 2–7. There are 37(40)43(47)50(53) squares on rows 3 and 6.

    When the piece measures approx. 49(51)53(55)57(59) cm and you have last worked either row 3 or row 6, leave the middle 15(16)15(15)16(15) squares unworked for the neckline. There are now 11(12)14(16)17(19) squares [= 34(37)43(49)52(58) sts] at both ends.

    Work the slanted shoulder: work 6(8)8(9)11(11) sl sts, 7(7)9(10)10(12) dc, 7(7)9(10)10(12) h trs, 7(7)9(10)10(12) trs and 7(8)8(10)11(11) d trs. Break the yarn and pull it through the last st.

    Join yarn at other end with 1 sl st and work the same row of sts for the other shoulder.

    Front

    Work as you did the back until the piece measures approx. 38(40)42(44)46(48) cm cm and you have last worked either row 3 or row 6. Leave the middle 15(16)15(15)16(15) squares unworked for the neckline. Work one side of the neckline at a time. Work the slanting at the same place you did on the back piece.

    Work the other side of the neckline to match.

    Sleeves

    The sleeves are crocheted from the armholes down following the direction of crochet on the pattern.

    Sew the shoulder seams. Place a marker (e.g. a piece of different-coloured yarn) on the back piece for the bottom of the armhole at the 24(25)25(27)27(28)th row from the shoulder down (the first row is a row of squares). Place another marker at the matching spot on the front piece. Start crocheting the sleeve from the marker on the back piece. Join yarn between the rows at the marker with 1 sl st. Work the 1st row following row 3 of chart I. The double trebles are worked on the bodice after every two tr rows and one d tr row (marked in red on chart II). Work until you reach the marker on the front piece. 32(34)34(36)36(38) squares on the first row, 16(17)17(18)18(19) each on the front and back.

    Crochet rows 4–7 and then keep repeating rows 2–7. Note: On each of the first three rows, decrease 1 st at both ends. 1 square decreased at both ends, 30(32)32(34)34(36) squares in total. Decrease 1 st at both ends on the next three rows as well = 28(30)30(32)32(34) squares. Continue the decreases: *work 3 rows without decreases, then decrease 1 st at both ends on each of the next three rows*. Repeat *–* until 18(20)20(20)22(22) squares remain.

    When the sleeve measures approx. 41(42)43(44)44(45) cm and you have last worked a row of trebles, break the yarn and pull it through the last st.

    Work the other sleeve to match.

    Finishing

    Pin the pieces to measurements wrong side up and steam lightly.

    Sew the sleeve seams and the side seams.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 88(96)104(112)120(128) cm / 34¾(37¾)41(44)47¼(50½) in. length 50(52)54(56)58(60) cm / 19¾(20½)21¼(22)22¾(23½) in. inner sleeve length 41(42)43(44)44(45) cm / 16¼(16½)17(17¼)17¼(17¾) in.

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Crochet pattern:
    - Work chain stitches (ch sts), double crochet (dc), half-trebles (h tr), trebles (tr) and double trebles (d tr) following the chart and the written instructions.

    Gauge:
    25 trebles (on row 2 of chart I) and 12 rows = 10 cm / 4 in.

    Back

    Chain 111(120)129(141)150(159) to form the beginning chain.

    Row 1 (see chart I): Ch3 (= 1st tr), work 1 tr into the 4th ch st from the hook and 1 tr into each ch st in the beginning chain = 112(121)130(142)151(160) trs. Continue to crochet following the chart. Keep repeating rows 2–7. There are 37(40)43(47)50(53) squares on rows 3 and 6.

    When the piece measures approx. 49(51)53(55)57(59) cm and you have last worked either row 3 or row 6, leave the middle 15(16)15(15)16(15) squares unworked for the neckline. There are now 11(12)14(16)17(19) squares [= 34(37)43(49)52(58) sts] at both ends.

    Work the slanted shoulder: work 6(8)8(9)11(11) sl sts, 7(7)9(10)10(12) dc, 7(7)9(10)10(12) h trs, 7(7)9(10)10(12) trs and 7(8)8(10)11(11) d trs. Break the yarn and pull it through the last st.

    Join yarn at other end with 1 sl st and work the same row of sts for the other shoulder.

    Front

    Work as you did the back until the piece measures approx. 38(40)42(44)46(48) cm cm and you have last worked either row 3 or row 6. Leave the middle 15(16)15(15)16(15) squares unworked for the neckline. Work one side of the neckline at a time. Work the slanting at the same place you did on the back piece.

    Work the other side of the neckline to match.

    Sleeves

    The sleeves are crocheted from the armholes down following the direction of crochet on the pattern.

    Sew the shoulder seams. Place a marker (e.g. a piece of different-coloured yarn) on the back piece for the bottom of the armhole at the 24(25)25(27)27(28)th row from the shoulder down (the first row is a row of squares). Place another marker at the matching spot on the front piece. Start crocheting the sleeve from the marker on the back piece. Join yarn between the rows at the marker with 1 sl st. Work the 1st row following row 3 of chart I. The double trebles are worked on the bodice after every two tr rows and one d tr row (marked in red on chart II). Work until you reach the marker on the front piece. 32(34)34(36)36(38) squares on the first row, 16(17)17(18)18(19) each on the front and back.

    Crochet rows 4–7 and then keep repeating rows 2–7. Note: On each of the first three rows, decrease 1 st at both ends. 1 square decreased at both ends, 30(32)32(34)34(36) squares in total. Decrease 1 st at both ends on the next three rows as well = 28(30)30(32)32(34) squares. Continue the decreases: *work 3 rows without decreases, then decrease 1 st at both ends on each of the next three rows*. Repeat *–* until 18(20)20(20)22(22) squares remain.

    When the sleeve measures approx. 41(42)43(44)44(45) cm and you have last worked a row of trebles, break the yarn and pull it through the last st.

    Work the other sleeve to match.

    Finishing

    Pin the pieces to measurements wrong side up and steam lightly.

    Sew the sleeve seams and the side seams.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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