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Women’s cardigan Novita Nordic Wool

Women’s cardigan Novita Nordic Wool

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Blue like the sky above the Helsinki coast, this cardigan is knitted top-down in one piece using circular needles. There are no seams.
Magazine Novita Kesä 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 5
Skill level Intermediate
Women’s cardigan Novita Nordic Wool
€4.50
€4.50
€4.50
€4.50
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Women’s cardigan Novita Nordic Wool
Women’s cardigan Novita Nordic Wool

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N02195
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M/L(XL)XXL

    Yarn demand
    Novita Nordic Wool
    (116) Aqua 350(350)400(450)500 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles
    (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 3½ mm (UK 9½ / US 4) and 4–4½ mm (UK 7–8 / US 6–7).

    For the sleeves
    double-pointed needles 3½ mm (UK 9½ / US 4) and 4–4½ mm (UK 7–8 / US 6–7).

    Other supplies
    8 buttons

    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Details

    Yoke

    Using the smaller circular needle cast on 91(95)99(101)103 sts and begin ribbing on the WS with k1. Work ribbing for 2 cm.

    Switch to the larger needle. Purl the WS row, evenly increasing 2(8)4(12)10 sts = 93(103)103(113)113 sts. Work 0(0)0(2)2 rows of stockinette st.

    Begin the lace pattern on row 1 of the chart: work section A (= 6 sts), repeat B (= 10 sts) 8(9)9(10)10 times, work section C (= 7 sts). Work rows 2–44 of the chart.

    18(20)20(22)22 sts increased on rows 3, 9, 13, 17, 25 and 35 = 201(223)223(245)245 sts.

    Work row 45. 20(22)22(24)24 sts increased, 221(245)245(269)269 sts on the needles. Work 4 rows of stockinette st. On the last row, increase 1 st at the front edges as on row 45 = 223(247)247(271)271 sts.

    Divide the sts into five groups and place markers (e.g. a different-coloured piece of yarn) at the edges of the groups: 33(37)38(42)42 sts (front), 44(48)46(51)50 sts (sleeve), 69(77)79(85)87 sts (back), 44(48)46(51)50 sts (sleeve), 33(37)38(42)42 sts (front).

    Continue in stockinette st and begin increases at the edges of the pieces: on the RS row work to last st before 1st marker, work a right-leaning increase (= knit the right leg of the st below the next st), work 1 st, work a left-leaning increase (= knit the left leg of the st below the previous st). Work the sleeve sts until 1 st remains before 2nd marker, right-leaning increase, work 1 st, left-leaning increase. Work the back sts until 1 st remains before 3rd marker, right-leaning increase, work 1 st, left-leaning increase. Work the sleeve sts until 1 st remains before 4th marker, right-leaning increase, work 1 st, left-leaning increase, work to end of row. 8 sts increased. Repeat the increases on every other round 2(2)3(3)4 more times. 247(271)279(303)311 sts now on the needles: 36(40)42(46)47 sts on the front pieces, 50(54)54(59)60 sts on the sleeves, 75(83)87(93)97 sts on the back piece.

    Leave the sleeve sts on hold and continue with the front and back sts.

    Body

    On the RS row work the 36(40)42(46)47 front sts, cast on 6(6)10(10)13 sts for the armhole, work the 75(83)87(93)97 back sts, cast on 6(6)10(10)13 sts for the other armhole, work the other 36(40)42(46)47 front sts = 159(175)191(205)217 sts.

    Place markers on both sides at the midpoint of the armhole cast-on.

    When the body measures 8(9)9(10)10 cm from the armhole, increase 1 st on both sides of the markers. Repeat the increases every 4 cm 2 more times = 171(187)203(217)229 sts.

    When the body measures approx. 30,5(31,5)31,5(32,5)32,5 cm from the armhole, work 2,5 cm of ribbing. Then bind off in pattern.

    Sleeves

    Move the 50(54)54(59)60 sts onto the larger circular needle if you are using the magic loop technique. Alternately you can divide the sts evenly onto four double-pointed needles.

    Pick up and knit 4(4)8(9)12 additional sts from the armhole cast-on = 54(58)62(68)72 sts.

    Place e.g. a piece of different-coloured yarn at the beginning of round, i.e. the midpoint of the sts you picked-up. Work stockinette st in the round.

    When you have knitted 5(4)4(3)3 cm, decrease 1 st on both sides of the marker. Repeat the decreases every 5(4)4(3)3 cm 6(8)9(12)13 more times = 40(40)42(42)44 sts.

    When the sleeve measures 41(42)43(43)44 cm from the armhole (or as needed), switch to the smaller needles.

    Work 3 cm of ribbing in the round, then loosely bind off in pattern.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.

    Buttonband: Using the smaller needles, pick up sts from the RS of left front piece, 20 sts per 10 cm (the stitch count must be divisible by 2 + 1 st). Work in ribbing. When the border measures 4 cm, finish on a WS row, then loosely bind off in pattern so the buttonband won't be too tight.

    Place markers for buttons on the border. The topmost button will be approx. 2,5 cm from the neckline and the others below it at approx. 6(6)6,5(6,5)6,5 cm intervals. Work the right border in the same manner. When the border measures approx. 1,5 cm, work buttonholes at the spots you marked. Buttonhole: yarn over, k2tog/p2tog.

    Sew on the buttons.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 92(100)108(116)124 cm / 36¼(39¼)42½(45¾)48¾ in middle back length 52(53)54(56)58 cm / 20½(20¾)21¼(22)22¾ in inner sleeve length 44(45)46(46)47 cm / 17¼(17¾)18(18)18½ in

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - K1 p1 ribbing: *k1, p1*, repeat *–* to end of row.
    - Stockinette stitch: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows. Lace pattern: follow the chart and instructions.
    - Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.
    - K1 p1 ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–* to end of row.

    Gauge
    18 sts and 24 rows of stockinette st with the larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in

    Note
    The cardigan is knitted top-down in one piece using circular needles. There are no seams in the cardigan.

    Yoke

    Using the smaller circular needle cast on 91(95)99(101)103 sts and begin ribbing on the WS with k1. Work ribbing for 2 cm.

    Switch to the larger needle. Purl the WS row, evenly increasing 2(8)4(12)10 sts = 93(103)103(113)113 sts. Work 0(0)0(2)2 rows of stockinette st.

    Begin the lace pattern on row 1 of the chart: work section A (= 6 sts), repeat B (= 10 sts) 8(9)9(10)10 times, work section C (= 7 sts). Work rows 2–44 of the chart.

    18(20)20(22)22 sts increased on rows 3, 9, 13, 17, 25 and 35 = 201(223)223(245)245 sts.

    Work row 45. 20(22)22(24)24 sts increased, 221(245)245(269)269 sts on the needles. Work 4 rows of stockinette st. On the last row, increase 1 st at the front edges as on row 45 = 223(247)247(271)271 sts.

    Divide the sts into five groups and place markers (e.g. a different-coloured piece of yarn) at the edges of the groups: 33(37)38(42)42 sts (front), 44(48)46(51)50 sts (sleeve), 69(77)79(85)87 sts (back), 44(48)46(51)50 sts (sleeve), 33(37)38(42)42 sts (front).

    Continue in stockinette st and begin increases at the edges of the pieces: on the RS row work to last st before 1st marker, work a right-leaning increase (= knit the right leg of the st below the next st), work 1 st, work a left-leaning increase (= knit the left leg of the st below the previous st). Work the sleeve sts until 1 st remains before 2nd marker, right-leaning increase, work 1 st, left-leaning increase. Work the back sts until 1 st remains before 3rd marker, right-leaning increase, work 1 st, left-leaning increase. Work the sleeve sts until 1 st remains before 4th marker, right-leaning increase, work 1 st, left-leaning increase, work to end of row. 8 sts increased. Repeat the increases on every other round 2(2)3(3)4 more times. 247(271)279(303)311 sts now on the needles: 36(40)42(46)47 sts on the front pieces, 50(54)54(59)60 sts on the sleeves, 75(83)87(93)97 sts on the back piece.

    Leave the sleeve sts on hold and continue with the front and back sts.

    Body

    On the RS row work the 36(40)42(46)47 front sts, cast on 6(6)10(10)13 sts for the armhole, work the 75(83)87(93)97 back sts, cast on 6(6)10(10)13 sts for the other armhole, work the other 36(40)42(46)47 front sts = 159(175)191(205)217 sts.

    Place markers on both sides at the midpoint of the armhole cast-on.

    When the body measures 8(9)9(10)10 cm from the armhole, increase 1 st on both sides of the markers. Repeat the increases every 4 cm 2 more times = 171(187)203(217)229 sts.

    When the body measures approx. 30,5(31,5)31,5(32,5)32,5 cm from the armhole, work 2,5 cm of ribbing. Then bind off in pattern.

    Sleeves

    Move the 50(54)54(59)60 sts onto the larger circular needle if you are using the magic loop technique. Alternately you can divide the sts evenly onto four double-pointed needles.

    Pick up and knit 4(4)8(9)12 additional sts from the armhole cast-on = 54(58)62(68)72 sts.

    Place e.g. a piece of different-coloured yarn at the beginning of round, i.e. the midpoint of the sts you picked-up. Work stockinette st in the round.

    When you have knitted 5(4)4(3)3 cm, decrease 1 st on both sides of the marker. Repeat the decreases every 5(4)4(3)3 cm 6(8)9(12)13 more times = 40(40)42(42)44 sts.

    When the sleeve measures 41(42)43(43)44 cm from the armhole (or as needed), switch to the smaller needles.

    Work 3 cm of ribbing in the round, then loosely bind off in pattern.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.

    Buttonband: Using the smaller needles, pick up sts from the RS of left front piece, 20 sts per 10 cm (the stitch count must be divisible by 2 + 1 st). Work in ribbing. When the border measures 4 cm, finish on a WS row, then loosely bind off in pattern so the buttonband won't be too tight.

    Place markers for buttons on the border. The topmost button will be approx. 2,5 cm from the neckline and the others below it at approx. 6(6)6,5(6,5)6,5 cm intervals. Work the right border in the same manner. When the border measures approx. 1,5 cm, work buttonholes at the spots you marked. Buttonhole: yarn over, k2tog/p2tog.

    Sew on the buttons.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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