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Women’s and Men’s Colourwork Socks Novita Nalle Taika ja Nalle

Women’s and Men’s Colourwork Socks Novita Nalle Taika ja Nalle

As low as €1.90

These long colourwork socks keep your feet warm when the cold weather pinches your cheeks.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2016 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 47
Skill level Intermediate
Women’s and Men’s Colourwork Socks Novita Nalle Taika ja Nalle
€5.50
€5.90
€5.50
€5.90
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-3.0 mm
€3.30
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-3.5 mm
€3.30
Novita Finishing Needle 2 pcs
€1.90

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Women’s and Men’s Colourwork Socks Novita Nalle Taika ja Nalle
Women’s and Men’s Colourwork Socks Novita Nalle Taika ja Nalle

In stock

€1.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N041647
    Pattern details
    Size
    Ladies’ shoe size 5 (Men’s shoe size 9.5)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Nalle Taika
    A Berry shake or Blue sky slightly less than 150(150) g
    Novita Nalle
    B Linen 50(50) g

    Needles and other supplies
    Needles
    Set of 5 double pointed needles Novita 3.0 mm
    Set of 5 double pointed needles Novita 3.5 mm
    Or the sizes to give you the correct tension

    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Details

    Using yarn B and smaller needles cast on 80(88) sts for cuff and distribute the sts over 4 needles. Join to work in the round and work 4 cm in rib.

    Next, change to yarn A and work 2 cm in st st.

    Switch to larger needles and start following the colourwork chart at row 1. Repeat the 8 st pattern for 10(11) times. Then, keep repeating rows 1­­–6.

    When the leg measures 15(16) cm, start decreasing at centre back on needles I and IV. Work in the following way:

    Decrease round: K2tog, work in pattern until 2 sts remain, skp. (Always work the decreases with the colour used next. Note that the decreases will interrupt the pattern at centre back.)

    Work these decreases every 4th row for 11(11) times more = 56(64) sts.

    Note When the colourwork section measures about 15 cm and you have just worked row 6 of the chart, work row 1 once again. After that switch to smaller needles and work the rest of the piece with yarn A only.

    Next, work 5(6) cm in st st and then, start working in rib stitch.

    When you have completed the decreases, distribute the sts evenly onto four needles, 14(16) sts on each. Work in rib until the leg measures 32(33) cm.

    Start working a reinforced heel flap by working the sts on needle I onto needle IV (= 28(32) sts). Work in rib stitch. Turn work and leave the rest of the sts on hold for a while.

    Row 1 (WS): Sl1, p to end. Turn work.

    Row 2 (RS): *Sl1, k1*, repeat *-* 13(15) times more. Turn work.

    Repeat rows 1–2 until you have worked them for 14(16) times (= 28–32 rows).

    Next row: P to end.

    Continue working in the reinforced stitch pattern shown for the heel. At the same time decrease for heel turn:

    Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, work to last 10(11) sts, skp. Turn work.

    Next alternate decrease row (WS): Sl1, p8(10), p2tog. Turn work.

    Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, work to last 9(10) sts, skp. Turn work.

    Keep working these decreases on each side of the 10(12) centre sts until you have only the 10(12) centre sts left. Now, distribute these sts onto two needles, 5(6) sts on each.

    With the aid of the fifth needle, pick up 14(16) sts along the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st between the heel flap and needle II and knit them through back loop onto needle I. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Pick up 1 st between needle III and the heel flap + 14(16) sts along the right edge of the heel flap and knit them through back loop with the aid of needle IV.

    Continue in st st with all 68(78) sts. Start decreasing for the gusset:

    Round 1: K to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, k to end.

    Round 2: K to end.

    Round 3: K to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, k to end.

    Rounds 4–5: K to end.

    Round 6: K to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, k to end.

    Rounds 7–9: K to end.

    Round 10: K to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, k to end.

    Rounds 11–14: K to end.

    Round 15: K to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, k to end.

    Rounds 16–20: K to end.

    Round 21: K to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, k to end.

    Men’s size only:

    Rounds 22–27: K to end.

    Round 28: K to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, k to end.

    You have now 14(16) sts on each needle.

    Next, work straight in st st until the sole measures 19(23) cm or the little toe is covered.

    Then, start decreasing for the toe:

    Row 1: Needle I: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; needle II: k1, skp, k to end; needle III: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; needle III: k1, skp, k to end.

    Row 2: K to end.

    Repeat these 2 rows until you have 6(7) sts on each needle. After that repeat row 1 only until you have 8 sts left. Cut yarn, thread through the stitches and pull tight. Weave in ends.

    Make another sock to match.

    Finishing

    Steam block the socks.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    Noin 9 x 22 cm

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    Rib stitch in the round
    All rounds: *K1, p1*, repeat *-* to end.

    Stocking stitch in the round
    All rounds: K to end.

    Colourwork in the round
    Follow the chart and written instructions working in patterned stocking stitch.


    Tension
    24 sts over patterned stocking stitch using larger needles = 10 cm

    Using yarn B and smaller needles cast on 80(88) sts for cuff and distribute the sts over 4 needles. Join to work in the round and work 4 cm in rib.

    Next, change to yarn A and work 2 cm in st st.

    Switch to larger needles and start following the colourwork chart at row 1. Repeat the 8 st pattern for 10(11) times. Then, keep repeating rows 1­­–6.

    When the leg measures 15(16) cm, start decreasing at centre back on needles I and IV. Work in the following way:

    Decrease round: K2tog, work in pattern until 2 sts remain, skp. (Always work the decreases with the colour used next. Note that the decreases will interrupt the pattern at centre back.)

    Work these decreases every 4th row for 11(11) times more = 56(64) sts.

    Note When the colourwork section measures about 15 cm and you have just worked row 6 of the chart, work row 1 once again. After that switch to smaller needles and work the rest of the piece with yarn A only.

    Next, work 5(6) cm in st st and then, start working in rib stitch.

    When you have completed the decreases, distribute the sts evenly onto four needles, 14(16) sts on each. Work in rib until the leg measures 32(33) cm.

    Start working a reinforced heel flap by working the sts on needle I onto needle IV (= 28(32) sts). Work in rib stitch. Turn work and leave the rest of the sts on hold for a while.

    Row 1 (WS): Sl1, p to end. Turn work.

    Row 2 (RS): *Sl1, k1*, repeat *-* 13(15) times more. Turn work.

    Repeat rows 1–2 until you have worked them for 14(16) times (= 28–32 rows).

    Next row: P to end.

    Continue working in the reinforced stitch pattern shown for the heel. At the same time decrease for heel turn:

    Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, work to last 10(11) sts, skp. Turn work.

    Next alternate decrease row (WS): Sl1, p8(10), p2tog. Turn work.

    Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, work to last 9(10) sts, skp. Turn work.

    Keep working these decreases on each side of the 10(12) centre sts until you have only the 10(12) centre sts left. Now, distribute these sts onto two needles, 5(6) sts on each.

    With the aid of the fifth needle, pick up 14(16) sts along the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st between the heel flap and needle II and knit them through back loop onto needle I. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Pick up 1 st between needle III and the heel flap + 14(16) sts along the right edge of the heel flap and knit them through back loop with the aid of needle IV.

    Continue in st st with all 68(78) sts. Start decreasing for the gusset:

    Round 1: K to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, k to end.

    Round 2: K to end.

    Round 3: K to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, k to end.

    Rounds 4–5: K to end.

    Round 6: K to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, k to end.

    Rounds 7–9: K to end.

    Round 10: K to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, k to end.

    Rounds 11–14: K to end.

    Round 15: K to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, k to end.

    Rounds 16–20: K to end.

    Round 21: K to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, k to end.

    Men’s size only:

    Rounds 22–27: K to end.

    Round 28: K to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, k to end.

    You have now 14(16) sts on each needle.

    Next, work straight in st st until the sole measures 19(23) cm or the little toe is covered.

    Then, start decreasing for the toe:

    Row 1: Needle I: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; needle II: k1, skp, k to end; needle III: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; needle III: k1, skp, k to end.

    Row 2: K to end.

    Repeat these 2 rows until you have 6(7) sts on each needle. After that repeat row 1 only until you have 8 sts left. Cut yarn, thread through the stitches and pull tight. Weave in ends.

    Make another sock to match.

    Finishing

    Steam block the socks.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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