Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
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Using the smaller needles and the Lichen colourway, cast on 78(86)94(102)110(118) sts and begin the ribbing on the wrong side row with a p2 (p2) p2 (p2) k2 (k2). When the ribbing measures 7 cm, purl through the next wrong side row.
Change to the larger needle and the multi-coloured yarn. Work 2 rows in moss stitch and decrease 8(10)12(12)14(14) sts on the 1st round as follows: k2, knit 2 together in pattern, *k3, knit 2 together in pattern, repeat from * for an additional 2(3)4(4)5(5) times and when you have 19(24)29(29)34(34) sts remaining continue and knit 2 together in pattern, *k3, knit 2 together in pattern, repeat from * for an additional 2(3)4(4)5(5) times and k2. 70(76)82(90)96(104) sts on the needles.
Continue working in moss stitch and knit stripes alternating working 2 rows with the Lichen colourway and 2 rows with the multi-coloured yarn.
When the piece measures 32(33)34(35)37(38) cm, start shaping the armholes. Bind off on both ends of the row on every 2nd row 1x3(5)5(5)6(6) sts, 1(1)1(2)3(3)x2 sts and 2(2)3(3)2(3)x1 sts = 56(58)62(66)68(74) sts.
When the armhole measures 16(17)18(19)19(20) cm, securely bind off the center 22 sts for the neckline and switch to working each side of the neck separately. Shape the first side by binding off on the edge of the neckline 1x2 sts and 1x1 st on every 2nd row.
When the armhole measures 18(19)20(21)21(22) cm, bind off 14(15)17(19)20(23) sts for the shoulder.
Knit the other side of the neckline to match.
With the smaller needle and using the Lichen coloured yarn, cast on 39(43)47(51)57(61) sts and start working the ribbing on the wrong side row: k3, *k2, p2, repeat from * to end. When the ribbing measures 7 cm, purl the next wrong side row.
Change to the larger needle and the multi-coloured yarn. Work 2 rows in moss stitch and decrease 4(4)4(4)6(6) sts on the 1st round: knit 20(24)28(32)28(32) sts, k2 together in pattern, *k3, knit 2 together in pattern, repeat from * for an additional 2(2)2(2)4(4) times and k2. 35(39)43(47)51(55) sts on the needles.
Continue working in moss stitch and knit stripes alternating working 2 rows with the Lichen colourway and 2 rows with the multi-coloured yarn.
When the piece measures 28(29)30(31)33(34) cm, begin shaping the front neck: knit through the RS row until there are 3 sts remaining on the front edge (= the left side), k2 together, k1. Repeat the decreases every 1,5 cm for another 14(14)15(15)16(16) times.
When the piece measures 32(33)34(35)37(38) cm, shape the armhole by binding off 1x3(5)5(5)6(6) sts, 1(1)1(2)3(3)x2 sts and 1(2)3(3)2(3)x1 sts on the right end of the row on every 2nd row.
When the armhole measures 18(19)20(21)21(22) cm, bind off 14(15)17(19)20(23) sts for the shoulder.
Knit as left front making all the shapings as mirror images. Make the decreases for the neckline as follows: slip one, knit one, pass slipped stitch over (= the slip knit pass decrease)
With the smaller needles and using the Lichen coloured yarn, cast on 38(38)40(40)42(42) sts and work in ribbing until the piece measures 7 cm.
Change to the larger needle and work in stockinette stitch and increase 4 sts evenly on the first row = 42(42)44(44)46(46) sts.
When the piece measures 14(11)12(11)13(15) cm, increase 1 st on both ends of the row. Repeat the increases every 4,5(4,5)4(3,3)3(2,5) cm for another 6(7)8(10)11(13) times = 56(58)62(66)70(74) sts.
When the piece measures approx. 46(47)48(49)49(50) cm, bind off on both ends of the row on every 2nd row 1x4(5)5(5)6(6) sts, 0(0)1(1)1(1)x3 sts ja 3(3)2(2)2(2)2x2 sts. Decrease on both ends of the row on every 2nd row 7(8)9(11)11(12)x1 sts as follows: on a RS row, k1, make the slip knit pass decrease and knit until you have 3 sts remaining, k2 together, k1. Bind off 1x2 sts ja 1x3 sts on both ends of the row on every 2nd row. Bind off the remaining stitches.
Knit the other sleeve to match.
Lay the pieces to the measurements wrong side up on a surface, mist with a spray bottle and leave to dry.
Sew the shoulder seams.
Finishing the front edges and the neckline: Using the Lichen colored yarn and the circular needle, pick up and knit from the right side of the work approx. 22 sts for every 10 cm. The stitch count should be dividable by 4. Pick the stitches up from the right front and the neckline, from the back neckline and to end from the left neckline and front. Start working in ribbing on a WS row: p3, k2, *p2, k2, repeat from * until 3 sts remain, p3.
When the edging measures 1 cm, make button holes on the next row to the front edge of the right front. The first buttonhole is placed where the neckline shaping begun, the last buttonhole 2 cm from the hem and the rest of the buttons evenly between. Buttonhole: k2 together in ribbing and do a yarn over. When the edging measures 3cm, bind off loosely in pattern.
Sew the side seams and the sleeve seams. Attach the sleeves in place. Sew on the buttons.
Using the smaller needles and the Lichen colourway, cast on 78(86)94(102)110(118) sts and begin the ribbing on the wrong side row with a p2 (p2) p2 (p2) k2 (k2). When the ribbing measures 7 cm, purl through the next wrong side row.
Change to the larger needle and the multi-coloured yarn. Work 2 rows in moss stitch and decrease 8(10)12(12)14(14) sts on the 1st round as follows: k2, knit 2 together in pattern, *k3, knit 2 together in pattern, repeat from * for an additional 2(3)4(4)5(5) times and when you have 19(24)29(29)34(34) sts remaining continue and knit 2 together in pattern, *k3, knit 2 together in pattern, repeat from * for an additional 2(3)4(4)5(5) times and k2. 70(76)82(90)96(104) sts on the needles.
Continue working in moss stitch and knit stripes alternating working 2 rows with the Lichen colourway and 2 rows with the multi-coloured yarn.
When the piece measures 32(33)34(35)37(38) cm, start shaping the armholes. Bind off on both ends of the row on every 2nd row 1x3(5)5(5)6(6) sts, 1(1)1(2)3(3)x2 sts and 2(2)3(3)2(3)x1 sts = 56(58)62(66)68(74) sts.
When the armhole measures 16(17)18(19)19(20) cm, securely bind off the center 22 sts for the neckline and switch to working each side of the neck separately. Shape the first side by binding off on the edge of the neckline 1x2 sts and 1x1 st on every 2nd row.
When the armhole measures 18(19)20(21)21(22) cm, bind off 14(15)17(19)20(23) sts for the shoulder.
Knit the other side of the neckline to match.
With the smaller needle and using the Lichen coloured yarn, cast on 39(43)47(51)57(61) sts and start working the ribbing on the wrong side row: k3, *k2, p2, repeat from * to end. When the ribbing measures 7 cm, purl the next wrong side row.
Change to the larger needle and the multi-coloured yarn. Work 2 rows in moss stitch and decrease 4(4)4(4)6(6) sts on the 1st round: knit 20(24)28(32)28(32) sts, k2 together in pattern, *k3, knit 2 together in pattern, repeat from * for an additional 2(2)2(2)4(4) times and k2. 35(39)43(47)51(55) sts on the needles.
Continue working in moss stitch and knit stripes alternating working 2 rows with the Lichen colourway and 2 rows with the multi-coloured yarn.
When the piece measures 28(29)30(31)33(34) cm, begin shaping the front neck: knit through the RS row until there are 3 sts remaining on the front edge (= the left side), k2 together, k1. Repeat the decreases every 1,5 cm for another 14(14)15(15)16(16) times.
When the piece measures 32(33)34(35)37(38) cm, shape the armhole by binding off 1x3(5)5(5)6(6) sts, 1(1)1(2)3(3)x2 sts and 1(2)3(3)2(3)x1 sts on the right end of the row on every 2nd row.
When the armhole measures 18(19)20(21)21(22) cm, bind off 14(15)17(19)20(23) sts for the shoulder.
Knit as left front making all the shapings as mirror images. Make the decreases for the neckline as follows: slip one, knit one, pass slipped stitch over (= the slip knit pass decrease)
With the smaller needles and using the Lichen coloured yarn, cast on 38(38)40(40)42(42) sts and work in ribbing until the piece measures 7 cm.
Change to the larger needle and work in stockinette stitch and increase 4 sts evenly on the first row = 42(42)44(44)46(46) sts.
When the piece measures 14(11)12(11)13(15) cm, increase 1 st on both ends of the row. Repeat the increases every 4,5(4,5)4(3,3)3(2,5) cm for another 6(7)8(10)11(13) times = 56(58)62(66)70(74) sts.
When the piece measures approx. 46(47)48(49)49(50) cm, bind off on both ends of the row on every 2nd row 1x4(5)5(5)6(6) sts, 0(0)1(1)1(1)x3 sts ja 3(3)2(2)2(2)2x2 sts. Decrease on both ends of the row on every 2nd row 7(8)9(11)11(12)x1 sts as follows: on a RS row, k1, make the slip knit pass decrease and knit until you have 3 sts remaining, k2 together, k1. Bind off 1x2 sts ja 1x3 sts on both ends of the row on every 2nd row. Bind off the remaining stitches.
Knit the other sleeve to match.
Lay the pieces to the measurements wrong side up on a surface, mist with a spray bottle and leave to dry.
Sew the shoulder seams.
Finishing the front edges and the neckline: Using the Lichen colored yarn and the circular needle, pick up and knit from the right side of the work approx. 22 sts for every 10 cm. The stitch count should be dividable by 4. Pick the stitches up from the right front and the neckline, from the back neckline and to end from the left neckline and front. Start working in ribbing on a WS row: p3, k2, *p2, k2, repeat from * until 3 sts remain, p3.
When the edging measures 1 cm, make button holes on the next row to the front edge of the right front. The first buttonhole is placed where the neckline shaping begun, the last buttonhole 2 cm from the hem and the rest of the buttons evenly between. Buttonhole: k2 together in ribbing and do a yarn over. When the edging measures 3cm, bind off loosely in pattern.
Sew the side seams and the sleeve seams. Attach the sleeves in place. Sew on the buttons.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.