Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Women's seamless sweater Novita Wool Cotton
As low as €5.95
Top-down sweater, knitted from soft Novita Wool Cotton.
Novita Syksy 2017 -lehti (in Finnish)
33
Intermediate
Availability: In stock
N031733
Size
XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)Yarn demand
Novita Wool Cotton(602) Powder 350(400)450(500)550(600) g
Needles and other supplies
Circular needle (80 cm):Novita 4 mm or the size needed to obtain gauge
Double-pointed needles:
Novita 4 mm or the size needed to obtain gauge
Circular needle (40 cm):
Novita 3½ mm for the neckline
Designer
Saara ToikkaThe neckline and the upper part of the sweater
The knitting starts from the neckline of the back piece.
Cast on 34(34)35(35)37(37) sts onto the circular needle and start knitting stockinette stitch flat:
1st row: (WS) purl all sts. On both ends of the piece you have 4 sleeve sts and between them the 26(26)27(27)29(29) sts for the back. Do not join for working in the round until this is stated in the pattern.
2nd row: (RS) for the sleeve knit into the front and back (kfb) of the first st of the row, k2, make 1 right (m1r) (=pick up the strand between the stitches from back to front and knit it through the front loop), k2 between the sections (at the same time mark these sts e.g. with a different yarn), make 1 left (m1l) (=pick up the strand between the sts from front to back and knit it through the back loop), knit the 24(24)25(25)27(27) back sts, m1r, k2 between the sections (mark these sts), m1l, k2 on the sleeve and kfb into the last st. 6 sts increased on this row, 40(40)41(41)43(43) sts on the needles.
3rd row: (WS) purl into the front and the back loop of the first st, p4, m1r purl (= pick up the bar between the sts from back to front and purl it through the front loop), p2 between the sections, m1l purl (=pick up the bar between the sts from front to back and purl it through the back loop), p26(26)27(27)29(29) sts on the back, m1r purl, p2 between the sections, m1l purl, p4 on the sleeve and pfb into the last st. Another 6 sts increased, 46(46)47(47)49(49) sts on the needles.
Repeat the increases in this manner on every row 5 more times. 76(76)77(77)79(79) sts on the needles (2 sts on both ends for the front, 16 sts for both sleeves and in the middle the 40(40)41(41)43(43) sts for the back).
Work the next WS row: on the front pfb into the first st, p2 between the sections (mark these sts), p14 for the sleeve, p2 between the sections, p38(38)39(39)41(41) for the back, p2 between the sections, p14 for the other sleeve, p2 between the sections (mark these sts), pfb into the last st on the front = 78(78)79(79)81(81) sts.
Continue increasing in the fronts and on both sides of the 2 sts marked between the sections: on the RS row kfb into the first st on the front, k1, m1r, k2 between the sections, m1l, k14 on the sleeve, m1r, k2 between the sections, m1l, k38(38)39(39)41(41) sts on the back, m1r, k2 between the sections, m1l, k14 on the other sleeve, m1r, k2 between the sections, m1l, k1 and kfb. 10 sts increased, 88(88)89(89)91(91) sts in total [5 sts for each front, 18 sts for the sleeves and 42(42)43(43)45(45) sts for the back]
Repeat the increases on every 2nd row (RS rows) on the fronts and on either side of the 2 sts between the sections for 6 more times. Every increase row adds 10 sts to the work, 148(148)149(149)151(151) sts in total after the increases [17 sts for each front, 30 sts for each sleeve and 54(54)55(55)57(57) sts for the back]
At the end of the RS row cast on 20(20)21(21)23(23) sts for the neckline and switch to working in the round = 168(168)170(170)174(174) sts [54(54)55(55)57(57) sts for the front and the back and 30 sts for each sleeve].
Continue the increases on the front and the back on every 2nd round 14(16)13(15)15(16) more times and then on every round 1(1)7(7)9(11) times. At the same time increase on the sleeves on every 2nd round 14(16)15(19)15(10) times, every round 1(1)3(0)0(0) times and then on every 3rd round 0(0)0(0)3(8) times. 288(304)322(334)342(354) sts in total, 84(88)95(99)105(111) sts on the front and the back and 60(64)66(68)66(66) sts for each sleeve. Move the sleeve sts on hold e.g. on a piece of scrap yarn and continue knitting with the front and the back sts.
The body and the hem
Knit 84(88)95(99)105(111) sts from the back, cast on 4(8)10(14)18(22) sts for the underarm, knit 84(88)95(99)105(111) sts from the front and cast on for the underarm 4(8)10(14)18(22) sts = 176(192)210(226)246(266) sts. You can now remove the raglan markers.
Continue working in the round and place a marker in the middle of the sts you just cast on for the armholes.
When the piece measures 6(7)6(7)7(7) cm from the armhole, decrease 1 st on either side of the side markers i.e. work the skp (=slip 1, knit 1 and pass the slipped st over) decrease before the marker and k2tog after the marker. Repeat the decreases every 6(6)6,5(6,5)7(7) cm for 3 more times = 160(176)194(210)230(250) sts.
When the piece measures 30,5(31,5)33,5(34,5)35,5(36,5) cm from the armhole, work ribbing in the round for 1,5 cm and then bind off in pattern.
The sleeves
Place the 60(64)66(68)66(66) sleeve sts onto the double-pointed needles and pick up 6(8)10(12)18(22) sts from the underarm cast-on = 66(72)76(80)84(88) sts. Place a marker in the middle of the picked-up sts (beginning of the round). Work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 2(2)1(2)4(3) cm from the armhole, begin the decreases: at the begin of the round k2tog and end the round with skp. Repeat the decreases every 2,5(2)2(2)1,5(1,5) cm for 8(11)13(12)14(16) more times = 48(48)48(54)54(54) sts.
When the sleeve measures 26(27)28(29)29(30) cm from the armhole, purl 1 round. Begin the lace pattern in the round from row 1 of the chart and repeat the 6 st pattern repeat 8(8)8(9)9(9) times. Work through rows 2-10 of the chart and then repeat rows 1-10 five times. Purl 1 row and bind off using knit sts.
Finish the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Lay the garment to measurements on a surface and steam lightly.
The neckband: Using the shorter circular needle pick up 85(85)88(88)91(91) sts from the neckline edge. Start from the second raglan seam on the back. Work garter st in the round (alternating between knit and purl rounds) for 4 rounds and bind off using purl sts.
Finished dimensions
Body circumference 84(92)100(108)118(128) cm Length in the back at midpoint 49(51)53(55)57(59) cm Inner sleeve length 44(45)46(47)47(48) cmStitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:- Stockinette stitch, knitted flat:
Right side (RS) rows:
knit all stitches.
Wrong side (WS) rows:
purl all stitches.
- Stockinette stitch in the round:
knit all rounds.
- Lace pattern:
knit according to the chart and the written instructions.
- Garter stitch in the round:
alternate between knitting 1 round and purling 1 round.
- Ribbing in the round:
*k1, p1*
The neckline and the upper part of the sweater
The knitting starts from the neckline of the back piece.
Cast on 34(34)35(35)37(37) sts onto the circular needle and start knitting stockinette stitch flat:
1st row: (WS) purl all sts. On both ends of the piece you have 4 sleeve sts and between them the 26(26)27(27)29(29) sts for the back. Do not join for working in the round until this is stated in the pattern.
2nd row: (RS) for the sleeve knit into the front and back (kfb) of the first st of the row, k2, make 1 right (m1r) (=pick up the strand between the stitches from back to front and knit it through the front loop), k2 between the sections (at the same time mark these sts e.g. with a different yarn), make 1 left (m1l) (=pick up the strand between the sts from front to back and knit it through the back loop), knit the 24(24)25(25)27(27) back sts, m1r, k2 between the sections (mark these sts), m1l, k2 on the sleeve and kfb into the last st. 6 sts increased on this row, 40(40)41(41)43(43) sts on the needles.
3rd row: (WS) purl into the front and the back loop of the first st, p4, m1r purl (= pick up the bar between the sts from back to front and purl it through the front loop), p2 between the sections, m1l purl (=pick up the bar between the sts from front to back and purl it through the back loop), p26(26)27(27)29(29) sts on the back, m1r purl, p2 between the sections, m1l purl, p4 on the sleeve and pfb into the last st. Another 6 sts increased, 46(46)47(47)49(49) sts on the needles.
Repeat the increases in this manner on every row 5 more times. 76(76)77(77)79(79) sts on the needles (2 sts on both ends for the front, 16 sts for both sleeves and in the middle the 40(40)41(41)43(43) sts for the back).
Work the next WS row: on the front pfb into the first st, p2 between the sections (mark these sts), p14 for the sleeve, p2 between the sections, p38(38)39(39)41(41) for the back, p2 between the sections, p14 for the other sleeve, p2 between the sections (mark these sts), pfb into the last st on the front = 78(78)79(79)81(81) sts.
Continue increasing in the fronts and on both sides of the 2 sts marked between the sections: on the RS row kfb into the first st on the front, k1, m1r, k2 between the sections, m1l, k14 on the sleeve, m1r, k2 between the sections, m1l, k38(38)39(39)41(41) sts on the back, m1r, k2 between the sections, m1l, k14 on the other sleeve, m1r, k2 between the sections, m1l, k1 and kfb. 10 sts increased, 88(88)89(89)91(91) sts in total [5 sts for each front, 18 sts for the sleeves and 42(42)43(43)45(45) sts for the back]
Repeat the increases on every 2nd row (RS rows) on the fronts and on either side of the 2 sts between the sections for 6 more times. Every increase row adds 10 sts to the work, 148(148)149(149)151(151) sts in total after the increases [17 sts for each front, 30 sts for each sleeve and 54(54)55(55)57(57) sts for the back]
At the end of the RS row cast on 20(20)21(21)23(23) sts for the neckline and switch to working in the round = 168(168)170(170)174(174) sts [54(54)55(55)57(57) sts for the front and the back and 30 sts for each sleeve].
Continue the increases on the front and the back on every 2nd round 14(16)13(15)15(16) more times and then on every round 1(1)7(7)9(11) times. At the same time increase on the sleeves on every 2nd round 14(16)15(19)15(10) times, every round 1(1)3(0)0(0) times and then on every 3rd round 0(0)0(0)3(8) times. 288(304)322(334)342(354) sts in total, 84(88)95(99)105(111) sts on the front and the back and 60(64)66(68)66(66) sts for each sleeve. Move the sleeve sts on hold e.g. on a piece of scrap yarn and continue knitting with the front and the back sts.
The body and the hem
Knit 84(88)95(99)105(111) sts from the back, cast on 4(8)10(14)18(22) sts for the underarm, knit 84(88)95(99)105(111) sts from the front and cast on for the underarm 4(8)10(14)18(22) sts = 176(192)210(226)246(266) sts. You can now remove the raglan markers.
Continue working in the round and place a marker in the middle of the sts you just cast on for the armholes.
When the piece measures 6(7)6(7)7(7) cm from the armhole, decrease 1 st on either side of the side markers i.e. work the skp (=slip 1, knit 1 and pass the slipped st over) decrease before the marker and k2tog after the marker. Repeat the decreases every 6(6)6,5(6,5)7(7) cm for 3 more times = 160(176)194(210)230(250) sts.
When the piece measures 30,5(31,5)33,5(34,5)35,5(36,5) cm from the armhole, work ribbing in the round for 1,5 cm and then bind off in pattern.
The sleeves
Place the 60(64)66(68)66(66) sleeve sts onto the double-pointed needles and pick up 6(8)10(12)18(22) sts from the underarm cast-on = 66(72)76(80)84(88) sts. Place a marker in the middle of the picked-up sts (beginning of the round). Work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 2(2)1(2)4(3) cm from the armhole, begin the decreases: at the begin of the round k2tog and end the round with skp. Repeat the decreases every 2,5(2)2(2)1,5(1,5) cm for 8(11)13(12)14(16) more times = 48(48)48(54)54(54) sts.
When the sleeve measures 26(27)28(29)29(30) cm from the armhole, purl 1 round. Begin the lace pattern in the round from row 1 of the chart and repeat the 6 st pattern repeat 8(8)8(9)9(9) times. Work through rows 2-10 of the chart and then repeat rows 1-10 five times. Purl 1 row and bind off using knit sts.
Finish the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Lay the garment to measurements on a surface and steam lightly.
The neckband: Using the shorter circular needle pick up 85(85)88(88)91(91) sts from the neckline edge. Start from the second raglan seam on the back. Work garter st in the round (alternating between knit and purl rounds) for 4 rounds and bind off using purl sts.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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