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Using the 60cm circular needle, cast on 92 sts and join for working stockinette stitch in the round. The beginning of the round is on one shoulder.
When you have knitted one round, start the increases in the center of both the front and back:
First set of increases: K22, yo, k2 center sts for the front, yo, k44 sts, yo, k2 center sts for the back, yo, k22 sts. 96 sts on the needles. Knit one round.
Second set of increases: K23, yo, k2 center sts for the front, yo, k46, yo, k2 center sts for the back, yo, k23. 100 sts on the needles. Knit one round.
Remember to always knit the 2 center stitches on both front and back and continue making the increases on a similar manner on either side of these stitches every 2nd round throughout the work.
Note: When you have increased three times and have knitted 6 rows in total, start the textured stitch pattern from row 7 of the chart. Repeat the 2 stitch pattern repeat throughout the round except for the 2 center sts for both front and back which you will knit on each round. Continue making the increases on either side of these stitches. Knit according to the chart for rounds 7-90 and change to the longer circular needle when necessary.
When you have finished row 90 of the chart, you will have 272 sts on your needles. Bind off loosely.
Lay the piece wrong side up on a surface stretching it to measurements, mist with a spray bottle and leave to dry or steam lightly.
Collar: With the right side facing you and using the smaller circular needle, pick up and knit 88 sts along the neckline. Knit 2x2 ribbing while at the same time continuing to knit the 2 center stitches on both front and back. When the collar measures 20cm, bind off in pattern.
Finish the work by adding a fringe. Cut 5 40cm pieces of yarn for each section. Fold each bundle of yarn in half and using a crochet hook pull the folded yarn from the right side to the wrong side. Pull the ends through this loop and pull tightly to secure it. Continue in this manner leaving 3 sts between each fringe section.
Using the 60cm circular needle, cast on 92 sts and join for working stockinette stitch in the round. The beginning of the round is on one shoulder.
When you have knitted one round, start the increases in the center of both the front and back:
First set of increases: K22, yo, k2 center sts for the front, yo, k44 sts, yo, k2 center sts for the back, yo, k22 sts. 96 sts on the needles. Knit one round.
Second set of increases: K23, yo, k2 center sts for the front, yo, k46, yo, k2 center sts for the back, yo, k23. 100 sts on the needles. Knit one round.
Remember to always knit the 2 center stitches on both front and back and continue making the increases on a similar manner on either side of these stitches every 2nd round throughout the work.
Note: When you have increased three times and have knitted 6 rows in total, start the textured stitch pattern from row 7 of the chart. Repeat the 2 stitch pattern repeat throughout the round except for the 2 center sts for both front and back which you will knit on each round. Continue making the increases on either side of these stitches. Knit according to the chart for rounds 7-90 and change to the longer circular needle when necessary.
When you have finished row 90 of the chart, you will have 272 sts on your needles. Bind off loosely.
Lay the piece wrong side up on a surface stretching it to measurements, mist with a spray bottle and leave to dry or steam lightly.
Collar: With the right side facing you and using the smaller circular needle, pick up and knit 88 sts along the neckline. Knit 2x2 ribbing while at the same time continuing to knit the 2 center stitches on both front and back. When the collar measures 20cm, bind off in pattern.
Finish the work by adding a fringe. Cut 5 40cm pieces of yarn for each section. Fold each bundle of yarn in half and using a crochet hook pull the folded yarn from the right side to the wrong side. Pull the ends through this loop and pull tightly to secure it. Continue in this manner leaving 3 sts between each fringe section.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.