Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Women's knitted dress Novita 7 Veljestä
As low as €6.96
The dress is knitted top down from shoulder to hem. The upper parts are knitted flat, with the bottom worked in the round. From Novita 7 Veljestä.
Novita Kevät 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
12
Expert
Availability: In stock
N011912
Size
XS/S(M)L/XLYarn demand
Novita 7 Veljestä(060) Sand 700(750)800 g
Needles and other supplies
Circular needle (80 cm / 32 in) anddouble-pointed needles Novita 4-4½ mm (UK 7-8 / US 6-7);
for the neckline edge a circular needle (40 cm / 16 in) 3½ mm (UK 9½ / US 4)
Designer
Lea PetäjäUpper back
Cast on 22(27)32 sts for the left shoulder and purl 1 WS row.
Begin the lace pattern on row 9(5)1 of chart I(II)I. The starting point is marked with a black arrow. Work 22(27)32 sts following the chart. Work rows 10-11(6-7)2-3. Cast on 2 sts at the end of the last row. Note: Double-check that the increases and decreases on the lace section match so the stitch count won't change. Leave the 24(29)34 sts on hold on e.g. a piece of yarn. Break the yarn.
Cast on 22(27)32 sts for the right shoulder and purl 1 WS row.
Begin the lace pattern on row 9(5)1 of chart I(II)I. The starting point is marked with a red arrow. Work 22(27)32 sts following the chart. Work rows 10-11(6-7)2-3. Cast on 2 sts at the end of the first row.
Work row 12(8)4 of the chart (WS): work 24(29)34 sts (= right shoulder), cast on 25 sts (= neckline), work 24(29)34 sts (= left shoulder) = 73(83)93 sts.
Continue on row 13(9)5 of chart I(II)I: work the 6(11)6 sts at the right edge, repeat the 20 st pattern 3(3)4 times, work the 7(12)7 sts on the left. Work rows 14-16(10-16)6-16 of the chart. Then work rows 1-16 two times and rows 1-6 once more.
Work rows 17-23, increasing 4x1 st at the right edge of the chart and 3x1 st at the left edge (= armholes) = 80(90)100 sts. Leave the sts on hold.
Upper front
Using the longer circular needle, pick up and knit 22(27)32 sts from the RS of the right back shoulder. Purl 1 WS row.
Begin the lace pattern on row 9(5)1 of chart I(II)I. The starting point is marked with a black arrow. Work 22(27)32 sts following the chart.
Size XS/S: Work rows 10-16 of chart I. Work rows 1-16. At the end of rows 13 and 15, cast on 2 sts. Work row 1 once more, casting on 2 sts at the end. Work the increased sts following the lace pattern. Leave the 28 sts on hold on e.g. a piece of yarn.
Size M: Work rows 6-16 of chart II. Work rows 1-13. At the end of rows 9, 11 and 13, cast on 2 sts. Work the increased sts following the lace pattern. Leave the 33 sts on hold on e.g. a piece of yarn.
Size L/XL: Work rows 2-16 of chart I. Work rows 1-9. At the end of rows 5, 7 and 9, cast on 2 sts. Work the increased sts following the lace pattern. Leave the 38 sts on hold on e.g. a piece of yarn.
Using the longer circular needle, pick up and knit 22(27)32 sts from the RS of the left back shoulder. Purl 1 WS row.
Begin the lace pattern on row 9(5)1 of chart I(II)I. The starting point is marked with a red arrow. Work 22(27)32 sts following the chart.
Size XS/S: Work rows 10-16 of chart I. Work rows 1-16. At the end of rows 12, 14 and 16, cast on 2 sts. Work row 1 once more. Work the increased sts following the lace pattern. Leave the 28 sts on hold on e.g. a piece of yarn.
Size M: Work rows 6-16 of chart II. Work rows 1-13. At the end of rows 8, 10 and 12, cast on 2 sts. Work the increased sts following the lace pattern. Leave the 33 sts on hold on e.g. a piece of yarn.
Size L/XL: Work rows 2-16 of chart I. Work rows 1-9. At the end of rows 4, 6 and 8, cast on 2 sts. Work the increased sts following the lace pattern. Leave the 38 sts on hold on e.g. a piece of yarn.
Work row 2(14)10 of chart I(II)I (WS): work 28(33)38 sts (= left shoulder), cast on 17 sts (= neckline), work 28(33)38 sts (= right shoulder) = 73(83)93 sts.
Continue on row 3(15)11 of chart I(II)I: work the 6(11)6 sts at the right edge, repeat the 20 st pattern 3(3)4 times, work the 7(12)7 sts on the left.
XS/S: work rows 4-16 and 1-6. M: work rows 16, 1-16 and 1-6. L/XL: work rows 12-16, 1-16 and 1-6.
Work rows 17-23, increasing 4x1 st at the right edge of the chart and 3x1 st at the left edge (= armholes) = 80(90)100 sts. Leave the sts on hold.
Lower body
Move the back and front sts onto the same circular needle = 160(180)200 sts.
Working in the round, continue the lace pattern on row 24 of chart I(II)I: *work the 10(15)10 sts at the right edge, repeat the 20 st pattern 3(3)4 times, work the 10(15)10 sts at the left edge*, repeat *-*. Work rows 25-39 and then rows 24-60.
Now work stockinette st in the round. Place markers (e.g. a different-coloured piece of yarn) at the sides, one at the beginning of round and the other at the half-way point.
After 2 rows, increase 2 sts at both ends on the next row: *k1, increase 1 st (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work until 1 st remains before marker, increase 1 st, k1*. Repeat *-*. 4 sts increased, 164(184)204 sts on the needles. Repeat the increases every 5 cm 5(6)6 more times = 184(208)228 sts.
When the piece measures 71(72)73 cm from the armholes, work ribbing in the round for 4 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern.
Sleeves
Using the longer circular needle, pick up sts from the vertical part of one of the armholes (marked red on the pattern). Pick up and knit a total of 59(63)67 sts from the RS on both sides of the shoulder seam.
Begin the lace pattern on the WS on row 34 of chart II. Cast on 1 st at both ends. The midpoint of the piece is marked with an arrow on the chart. Use that to determine the starting point. Work rows 35-39 flat, increasing 1 st at both ends on the RS rows = 67(71)75 sts. Work the increased sts following the lace pattern.
Distribute the sts onto four double-pointed needles and continue in the round. Work rows 24-39 and then rows 24-60. Note: When you have worked for 3 cm after the increases, decrease 1 st at both ends. Repeat the decreases every 3(3)2,5 cm 11(12)14 more times.
Note: After row 60, work stockinette st in the round.
When the sleeve measures 43(44)45 cm, work ribbing in the round for 4 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern.
Knit the other sleeve to match.
Finishing
Pin to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.
Neckline edge: Using the shorter circular needle, pick up and knit a total of 94(94)94(96)96 sts from the RS of the neckline edge. Start from one of the shoulder seams. Work ribbing in the round for 2 cm and bind off in pattern.
Sew the short underarm seams.
Finished dimensions
body circumference 90(100)112 cm / 35½(39¼)44 in length 95(97)99 cm / 37½(38¼)39 in inner sleeve length 47(48)49 cm / 18½(19)19¼ inStitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:- Lace pattern: follow the chart and the written instructions.
- Stockinette stitch flat: Knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
- Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows. Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*
Upper back
Cast on 22(27)32 sts for the left shoulder and purl 1 WS row.
Begin the lace pattern on row 9(5)1 of chart I(II)I. The starting point is marked with a black arrow. Work 22(27)32 sts following the chart. Work rows 10-11(6-7)2-3. Cast on 2 sts at the end of the last row. Note: Double-check that the increases and decreases on the lace section match so the stitch count won't change. Leave the 24(29)34 sts on hold on e.g. a piece of yarn. Break the yarn.
Cast on 22(27)32 sts for the right shoulder and purl 1 WS row.
Begin the lace pattern on row 9(5)1 of chart I(II)I. The starting point is marked with a red arrow. Work 22(27)32 sts following the chart. Work rows 10-11(6-7)2-3. Cast on 2 sts at the end of the first row.
Work row 12(8)4 of the chart (WS): work 24(29)34 sts (= right shoulder), cast on 25 sts (= neckline), work 24(29)34 sts (= left shoulder) = 73(83)93 sts.
Continue on row 13(9)5 of chart I(II)I: work the 6(11)6 sts at the right edge, repeat the 20 st pattern 3(3)4 times, work the 7(12)7 sts on the left. Work rows 14-16(10-16)6-16 of the chart. Then work rows 1-16 two times and rows 1-6 once more.
Work rows 17-23, increasing 4x1 st at the right edge of the chart and 3x1 st at the left edge (= armholes) = 80(90)100 sts. Leave the sts on hold.
Upper front
Using the longer circular needle, pick up and knit 22(27)32 sts from the RS of the right back shoulder. Purl 1 WS row.
Begin the lace pattern on row 9(5)1 of chart I(II)I. The starting point is marked with a black arrow. Work 22(27)32 sts following the chart.
Size XS/S: Work rows 10-16 of chart I. Work rows 1-16. At the end of rows 13 and 15, cast on 2 sts. Work row 1 once more, casting on 2 sts at the end. Work the increased sts following the lace pattern. Leave the 28 sts on hold on e.g. a piece of yarn.
Size M: Work rows 6-16 of chart II. Work rows 1-13. At the end of rows 9, 11 and 13, cast on 2 sts. Work the increased sts following the lace pattern. Leave the 33 sts on hold on e.g. a piece of yarn.
Size L/XL: Work rows 2-16 of chart I. Work rows 1-9. At the end of rows 5, 7 and 9, cast on 2 sts. Work the increased sts following the lace pattern. Leave the 38 sts on hold on e.g. a piece of yarn.
Using the longer circular needle, pick up and knit 22(27)32 sts from the RS of the left back shoulder. Purl 1 WS row.
Begin the lace pattern on row 9(5)1 of chart I(II)I. The starting point is marked with a red arrow. Work 22(27)32 sts following the chart.
Size XS/S: Work rows 10-16 of chart I. Work rows 1-16. At the end of rows 12, 14 and 16, cast on 2 sts. Work row 1 once more. Work the increased sts following the lace pattern. Leave the 28 sts on hold on e.g. a piece of yarn.
Size M: Work rows 6-16 of chart II. Work rows 1-13. At the end of rows 8, 10 and 12, cast on 2 sts. Work the increased sts following the lace pattern. Leave the 33 sts on hold on e.g. a piece of yarn.
Size L/XL: Work rows 2-16 of chart I. Work rows 1-9. At the end of rows 4, 6 and 8, cast on 2 sts. Work the increased sts following the lace pattern. Leave the 38 sts on hold on e.g. a piece of yarn.
Work row 2(14)10 of chart I(II)I (WS): work 28(33)38 sts (= left shoulder), cast on 17 sts (= neckline), work 28(33)38 sts (= right shoulder) = 73(83)93 sts.
Continue on row 3(15)11 of chart I(II)I: work the 6(11)6 sts at the right edge, repeat the 20 st pattern 3(3)4 times, work the 7(12)7 sts on the left.
XS/S: work rows 4-16 and 1-6. M: work rows 16, 1-16 and 1-6. L/XL: work rows 12-16, 1-16 and 1-6.
Work rows 17-23, increasing 4x1 st at the right edge of the chart and 3x1 st at the left edge (= armholes) = 80(90)100 sts. Leave the sts on hold.
Lower body
Move the back and front sts onto the same circular needle = 160(180)200 sts.
Working in the round, continue the lace pattern on row 24 of chart I(II)I: *work the 10(15)10 sts at the right edge, repeat the 20 st pattern 3(3)4 times, work the 10(15)10 sts at the left edge*, repeat *-*. Work rows 25-39 and then rows 24-60.
Now work stockinette st in the round. Place markers (e.g. a different-coloured piece of yarn) at the sides, one at the beginning of round and the other at the half-way point.
After 2 rows, increase 2 sts at both ends on the next row: *k1, increase 1 st (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work until 1 st remains before marker, increase 1 st, k1*. Repeat *-*. 4 sts increased, 164(184)204 sts on the needles. Repeat the increases every 5 cm 5(6)6 more times = 184(208)228 sts.
When the piece measures 71(72)73 cm from the armholes, work ribbing in the round for 4 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern.
Sleeves
Using the longer circular needle, pick up sts from the vertical part of one of the armholes (marked red on the pattern). Pick up and knit a total of 59(63)67 sts from the RS on both sides of the shoulder seam.
Begin the lace pattern on the WS on row 34 of chart II. Cast on 1 st at both ends. The midpoint of the piece is marked with an arrow on the chart. Use that to determine the starting point. Work rows 35-39 flat, increasing 1 st at both ends on the RS rows = 67(71)75 sts. Work the increased sts following the lace pattern.
Distribute the sts onto four double-pointed needles and continue in the round. Work rows 24-39 and then rows 24-60. Note: When you have worked for 3 cm after the increases, decrease 1 st at both ends. Repeat the decreases every 3(3)2,5 cm 11(12)14 more times.
Note: After row 60, work stockinette st in the round.
When the sleeve measures 43(44)45 cm, work ribbing in the round for 4 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern.
Knit the other sleeve to match.
Finishing
Pin to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.
Neckline edge: Using the shorter circular needle, pick up and knit a total of 94(94)94(96)96 sts from the RS of the neckline edge. Start from one of the shoulder seams. Work ribbing in the round for 2 cm and bind off in pattern.
Sew the short underarm seams.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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