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Chain 93(96)99(99)102 with the off-white yarn for the beginning chain.
Row 1: (see chart I) work 1 dc into the 2nd ch st from the hook, work 1 dc into each st in the beginning chain and at the same time evenly increase 10(10)12(13)15 dc = 102(105)110(111)116 dc.
Row 2: ch3 (= 1 tr), work 1 tr into each dc and at the same time evenly increase 11(11)12(14)15 trs = 113(116)122(125)131 trs. Switch to the Saffron colour.
Row 3: Ch3 (= 1 tr), skip 1 tr and work 3 trs into the next tr, *skip 2 trs and work 3 trs into the next tr*, repeat *-* 36(37)39(40)42 more times, work 1 tr. 37(38)40(41)43 treble groups or pattern repeats in total.
Continue crocheting following chart I, using the colours indicated on the chart.
Work rows 4-5.
Work row 6 of chart I and at the same time increase 4(4)5(5)5 pattern repeats: ch1 + 2 trs + ch1 evenly into 2 dc between chain arches. 41(42)45(46)48 pattern repeats in total.
Work rows 7-9.
Work row 10 of chart I and at the same time increase 4(4)4(5)5 pattern repeats: evenly work 1 ch st + 1 dc in between the tr groups on the previous row a total of 8(8)8(10)10 times. 45(46)49(51)53 pattern repeats in total.
Work rows 11-23. 91(93)99(103)107 treble groups in total.
Work row 24 of chart I and then keep repeating rows 23-24 with the off-white yarn for the rest of the work.
Note: When the yoke measures approx. 19(20)20(21)21 cm and you have just worked row 23, divide the work into five pieces: 14(14)15(16)17 tr groups for a front piece, 17(17)18(18)18 tr groups for a sleeve, 29(31)33(35)37 tr groups for the back piece, 17(17)18(18)18 tr groups for the other sleeve, and 14(14)15(16)17 tr groups for the other front piece. Place markers at the beginning of the pieces.
Continue with one of the front pieces. Work 4 rows and at the same time increase 1 tr group on the armhole side following chart II (rows 1-4) = 15(15)16(17)18 tr groups. Leave the sts on hold.
Work 4 rows on the back piece and at the same time increase 1 tr group at both ends (see rows 5-8 on chart II) = 31(33)35(37)39 tr groups. Leave the sts on hold.
Now work 4 rows on the other front piece and increase 1 tr group on the armhole side as before = 15(15)16(17)18 tr groups.
Continue crocheting with all sts (see row 9 of chart II): work the front piece sts, ch7(10)13(16)19 for an armhole, work the back sts, ch7(10)13(16)19 for the other armhole, work the other front piece. Work row 10 with all sts. Work 3(5)6(7)8 tr groups into the armhole ch sts. Note: There are 3 tr groups between the pieces on the chart.
You now have 67(73)79(85)91 treble groups. Place markers at the sides.
When the hem measures 12(12)13(14)15 cm, increase 1 tr group at the sides. Repeat the increases after 15 cm = 71(77)83(89)95 tr groups.
When the hem measures approx. 58(59)61(62)64 cm and you have last worked row 24 of chart I, break the yarn.
Continue with the sts of one sleeve first. Work 4 rows and at the same time increase 1 tr group at both ends as you did on the front and back (see chart II) = 19(19)20(20)20 tr groups. Continue crocheting with all sts (see row 9 of chart II), ch7(10)13(16)19 at the end of row for the armhole and close the round with 1 sl st into the beginning of row. Continue in the round. Work row 10 with all sts. Work 3(5)6(7)8 tr groups into the armhole ch sts. Note: There are 3 tr groups between the pieces on the chart.
You now have 22(24)26(27)28 treble groups. Place a marker for the inner seam at the halfway point of the ch sts.
When the inner sleeve measures 6(6)4(4)4 cm, decrease during 2 rounds 1 tr group at the inner seam. Repeat the decrease every 6(6)4(4)4 cm 3(3)5(5)5 more times. You now have 18(20)20(21)22 treble groups.
When the inner sleeve measures approx. 44(45)46(47)48 cm and you have last worked row 24 of chart I, break the yarn.
Crochet the other sleeve to match.
Pin the piece to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.
Sew the underarm seams.
Buttonband and buttonhole band: Using the off-white yarn, pick up 20 sts per each 10 cm onto the circular needle from the front edge of the left front piece. The number of sts must be divisible by 2 + 1 st. Begin ribbing on the WS with p2, k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *-*, k2. Work ribbing for 4 cm and bind off in pattern.
Place markers for buttons onto the buttonband. The topmost button will be 2 cm from the top edge and the other 7 below it at approx. 9 cm intervals.
Work the buttonhole band in the same manner onto the edge of the right front piece. Work buttonholes at the spots you marked when the band measures approx. 1,5 cm. Buttonhole: work 2 sts together, yarn over.
Using the off-white yarn, crochet 1 row of sl sts onto the neckline on the RS. Tighten the neckline at the same time if needed.
Attach the buttons.
Chain 93(96)99(99)102 with the off-white yarn for the beginning chain.
Row 1: (see chart I) work 1 dc into the 2nd ch st from the hook, work 1 dc into each st in the beginning chain and at the same time evenly increase 10(10)12(13)15 dc = 102(105)110(111)116 dc.
Row 2: ch3 (= 1 tr), work 1 tr into each dc and at the same time evenly increase 11(11)12(14)15 trs = 113(116)122(125)131 trs. Switch to the Saffron colour.
Row 3: Ch3 (= 1 tr), skip 1 tr and work 3 trs into the next tr, *skip 2 trs and work 3 trs into the next tr*, repeat *-* 36(37)39(40)42 more times, work 1 tr. 37(38)40(41)43 treble groups or pattern repeats in total.
Continue crocheting following chart I, using the colours indicated on the chart.
Work rows 4-5.
Work row 6 of chart I and at the same time increase 4(4)5(5)5 pattern repeats: ch1 + 2 trs + ch1 evenly into 2 dc between chain arches. 41(42)45(46)48 pattern repeats in total.
Work rows 7-9.
Work row 10 of chart I and at the same time increase 4(4)4(5)5 pattern repeats: evenly work 1 ch st + 1 dc in between the tr groups on the previous row a total of 8(8)8(10)10 times. 45(46)49(51)53 pattern repeats in total.
Work rows 11-23. 91(93)99(103)107 treble groups in total.
Work row 24 of chart I and then keep repeating rows 23-24 with the off-white yarn for the rest of the work.
Note: When the yoke measures approx. 19(20)20(21)21 cm and you have just worked row 23, divide the work into five pieces: 14(14)15(16)17 tr groups for a front piece, 17(17)18(18)18 tr groups for a sleeve, 29(31)33(35)37 tr groups for the back piece, 17(17)18(18)18 tr groups for the other sleeve, and 14(14)15(16)17 tr groups for the other front piece. Place markers at the beginning of the pieces.
Continue with one of the front pieces. Work 4 rows and at the same time increase 1 tr group on the armhole side following chart II (rows 1-4) = 15(15)16(17)18 tr groups. Leave the sts on hold.
Work 4 rows on the back piece and at the same time increase 1 tr group at both ends (see rows 5-8 on chart II) = 31(33)35(37)39 tr groups. Leave the sts on hold.
Now work 4 rows on the other front piece and increase 1 tr group on the armhole side as before = 15(15)16(17)18 tr groups.
Continue crocheting with all sts (see row 9 of chart II): work the front piece sts, ch7(10)13(16)19 for an armhole, work the back sts, ch7(10)13(16)19 for the other armhole, work the other front piece. Work row 10 with all sts. Work 3(5)6(7)8 tr groups into the armhole ch sts. Note: There are 3 tr groups between the pieces on the chart.
You now have 67(73)79(85)91 treble groups. Place markers at the sides.
When the hem measures 12(12)13(14)15 cm, increase 1 tr group at the sides. Repeat the increases after 15 cm = 71(77)83(89)95 tr groups.
When the hem measures approx. 58(59)61(62)64 cm and you have last worked row 24 of chart I, break the yarn.
Continue with the sts of one sleeve first. Work 4 rows and at the same time increase 1 tr group at both ends as you did on the front and back (see chart II) = 19(19)20(20)20 tr groups. Continue crocheting with all sts (see row 9 of chart II), ch7(10)13(16)19 at the end of row for the armhole and close the round with 1 sl st into the beginning of row. Continue in the round. Work row 10 with all sts. Work 3(5)6(7)8 tr groups into the armhole ch sts. Note: There are 3 tr groups between the pieces on the chart.
You now have 22(24)26(27)28 treble groups. Place a marker for the inner seam at the halfway point of the ch sts.
When the inner sleeve measures 6(6)4(4)4 cm, decrease during 2 rounds 1 tr group at the inner seam. Repeat the decrease every 6(6)4(4)4 cm 3(3)5(5)5 more times. You now have 18(20)20(21)22 treble groups.
When the inner sleeve measures approx. 44(45)46(47)48 cm and you have last worked row 24 of chart I, break the yarn.
Crochet the other sleeve to match.
Pin the piece to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.
Sew the underarm seams.
Buttonband and buttonhole band: Using the off-white yarn, pick up 20 sts per each 10 cm onto the circular needle from the front edge of the left front piece. The number of sts must be divisible by 2 + 1 st. Begin ribbing on the WS with p2, k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *-*, k2. Work ribbing for 4 cm and bind off in pattern.
Place markers for buttons onto the buttonband. The topmost button will be 2 cm from the top edge and the other 7 below it at approx. 9 cm intervals.
Work the buttonhole band in the same manner onto the edge of the right front piece. Work buttonholes at the spots you marked when the band measures approx. 1,5 cm. Buttonhole: work 2 sts together, yarn over.
Using the off-white yarn, crochet 1 row of sl sts onto the neckline on the RS. Tighten the neckline at the same time if needed.
Attach the buttons.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.