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Using the smaller circular needles (60 cm) and the off-white yarn, cast on 98(104)104(110) sts and work 2(2)2,5(2,5) cm of ribbing in the round.
Change to the larger circular needles and work 1(2)2(3) rounds of stockinette st in the round and at the same time increase 19(22)22(25) sts evenly on the 1st round = 117(126)126(135) sts.
Begin the colourwork in the round from row 1 of chart I and work the pattern repeat (= 9 sts + 1 st + 1 st) for a total of 13(14)14(15) times. Each pattern repeat now has 10 sts + 1 st on the back of the work binding the contrasting yarn.
Work rows 2-25 of chart I. On row 24 each pattern repeat has 16 sts + 1 st on the back of the work binding the contrasting yarn + 1 st on the back of the work binding the main colour. On row 25 the sts on the back of the work will be decreased, 208(224)224(240) sts on the needles, 16 sts for each pattern repeat. Change to the longer circular needles when necessary.
Knit 0(0)1(1) row with the off-white yarn. Work rows 26-30 of chart I. Break the yarns.
Now move 14(8)10(12) sts from the beginning of the round from your left-hand needle onto the right hand needle. From now on the beginning of the round will be here, between the back and the sleeve.
Mark the places where each section ends e.g. with a different yarn: the 44(48)44(48) sleeve sts from the beginning of the round, 60(64)68(72) sts for the front, 44(48)44(48) sts for the other sleeve and finally the 60(64)68(72) sts for the back.
Continue the colourwork from row 31 of the chart and increase 1 off-white stitch in between the sections: work the 44(48)44(48) sleeve sts, make 1 (m1) (=pick up the strand of yarn between the sts and knit it through the back loop with the off-white yarn), work the 60(64)68(72) front sts, m1, work the 44(48)44(48) sleeve sts, m1, work the 60(64)68(72) back sts and m1. 44(48)44(48) sts for each sleeve and 62(66)70(74) sts for the front and the back.
Work row 32 of chart I and keep knitting the increased sts with the off-white yarn. On the next round, row 33 of the chart, increase 1 st (make a yarn over using the yarn in use in the colourwork and on the next round knit the yarn over through the back loop) on either side of the sts you added on row 31. Continue the colourwork from row 34 of the chart and repeat the increases on the bodice on every 2nd row for 8(9)9(11) more times and on the sleeves on every 4th row 4(4)4(5) more times.
Note: when you have worked row 42 of chart I, knit 0(0)2(2) rows with the off-white yarn and then work rows 43-71.
Note: when you have completed the increases, cast on 8(10)18(18) sts for the underarm, put the 54(58)54(60) sleeve sts on hold e.g. on a piece of scrap yarn, knit through the 80(86)90(98) sts on the front, cast on 8(10)18(18) sts for the underarm, put the 54(58)54(60) sleeve sts on hold e.g. on a piece of scrap yarn and knit through the 80(86)90(98) sts on the back.
Continue working the colourwork in the round with the front and the back sts = 176(192)216(232) sts (for sizes L and XL the pattern repeat on the sides is not a full one). Mark the 2 middle sts on the armhole cast-on with e.g. a different yarn (side markers).
When you have worked row 71 of the chart, work rows 72-130 of chart II and knit the rest of the garment using the putty-coloured yarn.
Note: When the piece measures 15(16)16(17) cm after the armholes, increase 1 st on either side of the marked sts (=make a yarn over using the yarn in use in the colourwork and and on the next round knit it through the back loop). Repeat the increases every 2 cm for 3(3)4(4) more times = 192(208)236(252) sts.
When the piece measures 32(33)35(36) cm from the armhole, work 3 cm of ribbing in the round and then bind off in pattern (making sure the bind off edge is stretchy).
Move the 54(58)54(60) sts on hold for the other sleeve onto the larger double-pointed needles and continue knitting in the round. Following the colourwork, pick up 5(5)9(9) sts to the beginning of the round, work the 54(58)54(60) sleeve sts and then pick up another 5(5)9(9) sts from the armhole cast-on = 64(68)72(78) sts. Continue the colourwork with these sts (for sizes M and XL the last pattern repeat will not be a full one).
When you've worked row 71 of the chart, work rows 72-130 of chart II and knit the rest with the putty-coloured yarn.
Note: When the sleeve measures 30(31)32(33) cm, decrease 1 st before and after the beginning of round by knitting 2 sts together. Repeat the decrease every 2 cm for 5 more times. 52(56)60(66) sts on the needles.
When the sleeve measures 42(43)44(45) cm, knit 1 round and on the next round evenly decrease 12(16)16(20) sts = 40(40)44(46) sts. Work ribbing in the round for 3 cm and bind off in pattern.
Knit the other sleeve to match.
Lay the garment to measurements, and mist with a spray bottle or steam through a wet cloth.
Using the smaller circular needles (60 cm) and the off-white yarn, cast on 98(104)104(110) sts and work 2(2)2,5(2,5) cm of ribbing in the round.
Change to the larger circular needles and work 1(2)2(3) rounds of stockinette st in the round and at the same time increase 19(22)22(25) sts evenly on the 1st round = 117(126)126(135) sts.
Begin the colourwork in the round from row 1 of chart I and work the pattern repeat (= 9 sts + 1 st + 1 st) for a total of 13(14)14(15) times. Each pattern repeat now has 10 sts + 1 st on the back of the work binding the contrasting yarn.
Work rows 2-25 of chart I. On row 24 each pattern repeat has 16 sts + 1 st on the back of the work binding the contrasting yarn + 1 st on the back of the work binding the main colour. On row 25 the sts on the back of the work will be decreased, 208(224)224(240) sts on the needles, 16 sts for each pattern repeat. Change to the longer circular needles when necessary.
Knit 0(0)1(1) row with the off-white yarn. Work rows 26-30 of chart I. Break the yarns.
Now move 14(8)10(12) sts from the beginning of the round from your left-hand needle onto the right hand needle. From now on the beginning of the round will be here, between the back and the sleeve.
Mark the places where each section ends e.g. with a different yarn: the 44(48)44(48) sleeve sts from the beginning of the round, 60(64)68(72) sts for the front, 44(48)44(48) sts for the other sleeve and finally the 60(64)68(72) sts for the back.
Continue the colourwork from row 31 of the chart and increase 1 off-white stitch in between the sections: work the 44(48)44(48) sleeve sts, make 1 (m1) (=pick up the strand of yarn between the sts and knit it through the back loop with the off-white yarn), work the 60(64)68(72) front sts, m1, work the 44(48)44(48) sleeve sts, m1, work the 60(64)68(72) back sts and m1. 44(48)44(48) sts for each sleeve and 62(66)70(74) sts for the front and the back.
Work row 32 of chart I and keep knitting the increased sts with the off-white yarn. On the next round, row 33 of the chart, increase 1 st (make a yarn over using the yarn in use in the colourwork and on the next round knit the yarn over through the back loop) on either side of the sts you added on row 31. Continue the colourwork from row 34 of the chart and repeat the increases on the bodice on every 2nd row for 8(9)9(11) more times and on the sleeves on every 4th row 4(4)4(5) more times.
Note: when you have worked row 42 of chart I, knit 0(0)2(2) rows with the off-white yarn and then work rows 43-71.
Note: when you have completed the increases, cast on 8(10)18(18) sts for the underarm, put the 54(58)54(60) sleeve sts on hold e.g. on a piece of scrap yarn, knit through the 80(86)90(98) sts on the front, cast on 8(10)18(18) sts for the underarm, put the 54(58)54(60) sleeve sts on hold e.g. on a piece of scrap yarn and knit through the 80(86)90(98) sts on the back.
Continue working the colourwork in the round with the front and the back sts = 176(192)216(232) sts (for sizes L and XL the pattern repeat on the sides is not a full one). Mark the 2 middle sts on the armhole cast-on with e.g. a different yarn (side markers).
When you have worked row 71 of the chart, work rows 72-130 of chart II and knit the rest of the garment using the putty-coloured yarn.
Note: When the piece measures 15(16)16(17) cm after the armholes, increase 1 st on either side of the marked sts (=make a yarn over using the yarn in use in the colourwork and and on the next round knit it through the back loop). Repeat the increases every 2 cm for 3(3)4(4) more times = 192(208)236(252) sts.
When the piece measures 32(33)35(36) cm from the armhole, work 3 cm of ribbing in the round and then bind off in pattern (making sure the bind off edge is stretchy).
Move the 54(58)54(60) sts on hold for the other sleeve onto the larger double-pointed needles and continue knitting in the round. Following the colourwork, pick up 5(5)9(9) sts to the beginning of the round, work the 54(58)54(60) sleeve sts and then pick up another 5(5)9(9) sts from the armhole cast-on = 64(68)72(78) sts. Continue the colourwork with these sts (for sizes M and XL the last pattern repeat will not be a full one).
When you've worked row 71 of the chart, work rows 72-130 of chart II and knit the rest with the putty-coloured yarn.
Note: When the sleeve measures 30(31)32(33) cm, decrease 1 st before and after the beginning of round by knitting 2 sts together. Repeat the decrease every 2 cm for 5 more times. 52(56)60(66) sts on the needles.
When the sleeve measures 42(43)44(45) cm, knit 1 round and on the next round evenly decrease 12(16)16(20) sts = 40(40)44(46) sts. Work ribbing in the round for 3 cm and bind off in pattern.
Knit the other sleeve to match.
Lay the garment to measurements, and mist with a spray bottle or steam through a wet cloth.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.