Women's Cardigan with Slanted Striping Novita Nalle and Nalle Taika

As low as €6.96

The pieces for this colourful cardigan are knitted from the neckline down. The wonderfully lively look is achieved by alternating between rows knitted with single-coloured Novita Nalle yarns and multi-coloured Nalle Taika yarns.
Novita Kevät 2017 -lehti (in Finnish)
7
Intermediate
Customize Women's Cardigan with Slanted Striping Novita Nalle and Nalle Taika

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    €6.96

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    Availability: In stock

    N01177
    Size
    XS/S(M/L)XL/XXL

    Yarn demand
    Novita Nalle Taika
    (881) Flowerfield 300(300)350 g and
    (857) Berry shake 50(100)100 g,
    Novita Nalle
    (160) Jeans 100(150)150 g,
    (742) Lilac 100(150)150 g,
    (043) Stone 100(100)150 g,
    (044) Graphite 100(100)100 g and
    (061) Linen 50(50)100 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Needles:
    80 cm Circular needles Novita 4mm or the size to obtain gauge
    Crochet hook:
    Crochet hook Novita 4mm for finishing.

    Other supplies:
    8 buttons

    Designer
    Sisko Sälpäkivi

    Upper part of the back and the sleeves

    Using the Nalle Taika yarn and the flowerfield colourway cast on 5 sts and knit through the WS round. Mark the center stitch.

    1st row: K1, m1 (= pick up the bar between the stitches and knit it through the back loop), k1, m1, k1 ( = the center stitch), m1, k1, m1 and k1. 9 sts in total.

    2nd row: knit 9.

    Attach the Nalle yarn in the denim colourway and begin striping by knitting 2 rows with the denim and 2 rows with the flowerfield.

    3rd row: k1, m1, k3, m1, k1 (= the center stitch), m1, k3, m1, k1. 13 stitches in total.

    4th row: knit 13 sts.

    Each increase round will add 4 sts to the work. Continue increasing on both ends and on either side of the center stitch on every 2nd row 72(80)90) times in total.

    Note: When you have increased 15 times in total, you will have 65 sts on your needles and you have just knitted 2 rows with the flowerfield colourway. From this point on, continue striping so that the flowerfield will remain as the main color throughout and the contrasting color will change in the following manner: use Nalle linen for the next 10 cm, Nalle Taika berry shake for the following 10cm, Nalle stone for the next 10 cm, Nalle lilac for the following 10cm, Nalle denim for the next 15cm and Nalle graphite for the rest of the knit.

    When you have completed all the increases, you will have 293(325)365 sts on your needles. On the next wrong side row divide the work into three sections: k59(66)73) for the sleeve, bind off the next 13(16)16 sts for the armhole, k74 sts + 1 + 74 sts (80 sts + 1 + 80sts) 93 sts + 1 + 93 sts for the back, bind off 13(16)16 sts for the other armhole and knit through the 59(66)73 sts for the other sleeve.

    Do not break the yarns, but continue knitting with the 59(66)72 sleeve sts.

    The lower part of the left sleeve

    Continue increasing on the right end of the sleeve on 2nd row for another 26(20)12 times while at the same time decreasing on the left end

    Size XS/S: on every 2nd row 7x2 sts and then on every 2nd row *1x2 sts and 1x1 sts, repeating from * to end for a total of 18 times.

    Size M/L: every 2nd row 6x2 sts and then on every 2nd row *1x2 sts, 1x2 sts and 1x1 sts, repeating from * to end for a total of 11 times.

    Size XL/XXL: every 2nd row 24x2 sts and then on every 2nd row *1x2 sts and 1x1 sts, repeating from * to end for a total of 5 times.

    When you have completed all the increases on the right end, decrease 1 st every 2nd row until you run out of stitches.

    The lower part of the back

    Continue knitting with the 149(161)187 back sts and on the first right side row decrease 1 st on both ends and continue making the increases before and after the center stitch.

    Repeat the decreases on both ends

    Size XS/S: every 2nd row for an additional 9 times and then do the decreases in turn every 3rd row and every 2nd row 32 times in total (decreasing 74 sts from both ends)

    Size M/L­: every 2nd row for 2 more times and then in turn every 3rd row and every 2nd row for 34 times in total (decreasing 71 sts from both ends)

    Size XL/XXL: every 2nd row for 18 more times and then in turn every 3rd row and every 2nd row for a total of 26 times (decreasing 71 sts from both ends)

    Note: When you have gone through the increases on the lower part of the back for an additional 45(40)31 times, divide the piece in two and knit the right side first. Continue making the decreases as established and decrease on the left end ( = at the hem) 1 st every 2nd row until you run out of sts.

    Knit the left side to match.

    The lower part of the right sleeve

    Decrease on the right end

    Size XS/S: every 2nd row 7x2 sts and then every 2nd row *1x2 sts and 1x1 sts repeating from * to the end, for a total of 18 times.

    Size M/L: every 2nd row 6x2 sts and then every 2nd row *1x2 sts, 1x2 sts and 1x1 sts repeating from * to end, for a total of 11 times.

    Size XL/XXL: every 2nd row 24x2 sts and then every 2nd row *1x2 sts and 1x1 sts repeating from * to end, for a total of 5 times.

    At the same time continue increasing on the left side every 2nd row for 26(20)12 more times.

    When you have made all the increases on the left, decrease on the left side 1 st on every 2nd row until you run out of sts.

    The upper parts of the left front and sleeves

    Using Nalle Taika yarn in the flowerfield colourway, cast on 38 sts. Knit through the wrong side row. Stripe in the same manner as in the back piece. The flowerfield will remain as the main color throughout and the contrasting color will change in the following manner: use Nalle linen for 10 cm, Nalle Taika berry shake for the next 10 cm, Nalle stone for the following 10 cm, Nalle lilac for the next 10 cm, Nalle denim for the following 15 cm and the knit rest of stripes with Nalle graphite.

    On the right side round k6 ( = the buttonband), place a marker, m1 and knit until there is 1 st remaining, m1, k1. Repeat the increases on both ends every 2nd row for 56(64)74 more times. On the right end you will make the increase on the left side of the button band.

    Upon completing the increases, you will have 152(168)188 sts on your needles. On the next right side row divide the work in two: first knit the 59(66)73 sleeve sts, bind off 13(16)16 sts for the armhole and then knit through the 74(80)93 front sts + 6 sts of the buttonhole.

    Do not break the yarns, but continue knitting with the front stitches.

    The lower part of the left front

    Continue knitting with the 80(86)99 front stitches. Continue increasing on the front edge/the right end (on the left side of the button band) every 2nd row for an additional 45(40)31 times while at the same time decreasing on the left end

    Size XS/S:1 st every 2nd row 10 times and then continue decreasing 1 st, alternating between every 3rd round and every 2nd round for 32 times in total.

    Size M/L­: 1 st every 2nd row 3 times and then continue decreasing 1 st, alternating between every 3rd and every 2nd row for 34 times in total.

    Size XL/XXL: 1 st every 2nd row 19 times and then continue decreasing 1 st, alternating between every 3rd and every 2nd row for 26 times in total.

    Note: Upon completing the increases on the front edge, continue decreasing on the left end as established and on the right side bind off the 6 button band sts. After this, decrease on the right side (the hem) 1 st every 2nd row until you run out of stitches.

    The lower part of the left sleeve

    Decrease on the right side

    Size XS/S: every 2nd row 7x2 sts and then every 2nd row *1x2 sts and 1x1 sts repeating from * to end, for a total of 18 times.

    Size M/L: every 2nd row 6x2 sts and then every 2nd row *1x2 sts, 1x2 sts and 1x1 sts repeating from * to end, for a total of 11 times.

    Size XL/XXL: every 2nd row 24x2 sts and then every 2nd row *1x2 sts and 1x1 sts repeating from * to end, for a total of 5 times.

    At the same time, continue decreasing on the left side of the sleeve on every 2nd row for 26(20)12 more times.

    When you have completed the increases on the left side, start decreasing 1 st every 2nd row until you run out of stitches.

    Now mark the places for the buttons to the front edge so that the top button is 3 cm down from the upper edge and the rest evenly below it with about 8cm between them.

    The upper part of the right front and sleeve

    Knit as the mirror image of the left one and make the buttonholes where you marked them. Buttonhole: knit 2 sts from the front edge, k2 together, make a yarn over and k to end.

    Finishing

    Sew the shoulder and sleeve seams together making sure that the seams are not too tight. Sew the under seams of the sleeves and also the side seams of the garment.

    Using Nalle Taika yarn in the flowerfield colorway crochet double crochet stitches to the neckline from the right side of the work. Crochet one chain stitch to every stitch on the right front and 3 chain stitches per stitch on the shoulder seam. On the back of the neckline crochet 1 chain st for every stripe, 3 chain sts per stitch for the second shoulder seam and 1 chain st on each stitch on the left front. On the wrong side, crochet 1 chain st on the front leg of every stitch and for the shoulder seams 3 chain sts per stitch. On the right side row, crochet 1 chain st to the back leg of each stitch and again 3 chain sts per stitch on the shoulder seams. Crochet the wrong side row as before and end by making 1 slip st into each chain st. Break the yarn.

    Using Nalle Taika yarn in the flowerfield colorway, crochet double stitches around the cuff. Crochet 36(40)44 chain sts to the edge of the sleeve. Move directly to the next round and crochet 1 double st to the back of each stitch. When you have crocheted for 4 cm, break the yarn. Make the other cuff to match.

    Steam the button bands at the same time pulling and straightening them. Also steam the seams and side seams of the sleeves and if necessarily pull and straighten them also.

    Sew on the buttons.

    Finished dimensions
    Body circumference 100(112)128 cm Height of the garment 80(83)85 cm Sleeve length from underarm 44,5(43)40,5 cm

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch pattern:
    - Garter stitch:
    knit every row

    Gauge:
    20 sts and 40 rows in garter stitch = 10 cm

    Note:
    The pieces are knitted from the neckline down (see the knitting direction from the pattern).

    Upper part of the back and the sleeves

    Using the Nalle Taika yarn and the flowerfield colourway cast on 5 sts and knit through the WS round. Mark the center stitch.

    1st row: K1, m1 (= pick up the bar between the stitches and knit it through the back loop), k1, m1, k1 ( = the center stitch), m1, k1, m1 and k1. 9 sts in total.

    2nd row: knit 9.

    Attach the Nalle yarn in the denim colourway and begin striping by knitting 2 rows with the denim and 2 rows with the flowerfield.

    3rd row: k1, m1, k3, m1, k1 (= the center stitch), m1, k3, m1, k1. 13 stitches in total.

    4th row: knit 13 sts.

    Each increase round will add 4 sts to the work. Continue increasing on both ends and on either side of the center stitch on every 2nd row 72(80)90) times in total.

    Note: When you have increased 15 times in total, you will have 65 sts on your needles and you have just knitted 2 rows with the flowerfield colourway. From this point on, continue striping so that the flowerfield will remain as the main color throughout and the contrasting color will change in the following manner: use Nalle linen for the next 10 cm, Nalle Taika berry shake for the following 10cm, Nalle stone for the next 10 cm, Nalle lilac for the following 10cm, Nalle denim for the next 15cm and Nalle graphite for the rest of the knit.

    When you have completed all the increases, you will have 293(325)365 sts on your needles. On the next wrong side row divide the work into three sections: k59(66)73) for the sleeve, bind off the next 13(16)16 sts for the armhole, k74 sts + 1 + 74 sts (80 sts + 1 + 80sts) 93 sts + 1 + 93 sts for the back, bind off 13(16)16 sts for the other armhole and knit through the 59(66)73 sts for the other sleeve.

    Do not break the yarns, but continue knitting with the 59(66)72 sleeve sts.

    The lower part of the left sleeve

    Continue increasing on the right end of the sleeve on 2nd row for another 26(20)12 times while at the same time decreasing on the left end

    Size XS/S: on every 2nd row 7x2 sts and then on every 2nd row *1x2 sts and 1x1 sts, repeating from * to end for a total of 18 times.

    Size M/L: every 2nd row 6x2 sts and then on every 2nd row *1x2 sts, 1x2 sts and 1x1 sts, repeating from * to end for a total of 11 times.

    Size XL/XXL: every 2nd row 24x2 sts and then on every 2nd row *1x2 sts and 1x1 sts, repeating from * to end for a total of 5 times.

    When you have completed all the increases on the right end, decrease 1 st every 2nd row until you run out of stitches.

    The lower part of the back

    Continue knitting with the 149(161)187 back sts and on the first right side row decrease 1 st on both ends and continue making the increases before and after the center stitch.

    Repeat the decreases on both ends

    Size XS/S: every 2nd row for an additional 9 times and then do the decreases in turn every 3rd row and every 2nd row 32 times in total (decreasing 74 sts from both ends)

    Size M/L­: every 2nd row for 2 more times and then in turn every 3rd row and every 2nd row for 34 times in total (decreasing 71 sts from both ends)

    Size XL/XXL: every 2nd row for 18 more times and then in turn every 3rd row and every 2nd row for a total of 26 times (decreasing 71 sts from both ends)

    Note: When you have gone through the increases on the lower part of the back for an additional 45(40)31 times, divide the piece in two and knit the right side first. Continue making the decreases as established and decrease on the left end ( = at the hem) 1 st every 2nd row until you run out of sts.

    Knit the left side to match.

    The lower part of the right sleeve

    Decrease on the right end

    Size XS/S: every 2nd row 7x2 sts and then every 2nd row *1x2 sts and 1x1 sts repeating from * to the end, for a total of 18 times.

    Size M/L: every 2nd row 6x2 sts and then every 2nd row *1x2 sts, 1x2 sts and 1x1 sts repeating from * to end, for a total of 11 times.

    Size XL/XXL: every 2nd row 24x2 sts and then every 2nd row *1x2 sts and 1x1 sts repeating from * to end, for a total of 5 times.

    At the same time continue increasing on the left side every 2nd row for 26(20)12 more times.

    When you have made all the increases on the left, decrease on the left side 1 st on every 2nd row until you run out of sts.

    The upper parts of the left front and sleeves

    Using Nalle Taika yarn in the flowerfield colourway, cast on 38 sts. Knit through the wrong side row. Stripe in the same manner as in the back piece. The flowerfield will remain as the main color throughout and the contrasting color will change in the following manner: use Nalle linen for 10 cm, Nalle Taika berry shake for the next 10 cm, Nalle stone for the following 10 cm, Nalle lilac for the next 10 cm, Nalle denim for the following 15 cm and the knit rest of stripes with Nalle graphite.

    On the right side round k6 ( = the buttonband), place a marker, m1 and knit until there is 1 st remaining, m1, k1. Repeat the increases on both ends every 2nd row for 56(64)74 more times. On the right end you will make the increase on the left side of the button band.

    Upon completing the increases, you will have 152(168)188 sts on your needles. On the next right side row divide the work in two: first knit the 59(66)73 sleeve sts, bind off 13(16)16 sts for the armhole and then knit through the 74(80)93 front sts + 6 sts of the buttonhole.

    Do not break the yarns, but continue knitting with the front stitches.

    The lower part of the left front

    Continue knitting with the 80(86)99 front stitches. Continue increasing on the front edge/the right end (on the left side of the button band) every 2nd row for an additional 45(40)31 times while at the same time decreasing on the left end

    Size XS/S:1 st every 2nd row 10 times and then continue decreasing 1 st, alternating between every 3rd round and every 2nd round for 32 times in total.

    Size M/L­: 1 st every 2nd row 3 times and then continue decreasing 1 st, alternating between every 3rd and every 2nd row for 34 times in total.

    Size XL/XXL: 1 st every 2nd row 19 times and then continue decreasing 1 st, alternating between every 3rd and every 2nd row for 26 times in total.

    Note: Upon completing the increases on the front edge, continue decreasing on the left end as established and on the right side bind off the 6 button band sts. After this, decrease on the right side (the hem) 1 st every 2nd row until you run out of stitches.

    The lower part of the left sleeve

    Decrease on the right side

    Size XS/S: every 2nd row 7x2 sts and then every 2nd row *1x2 sts and 1x1 sts repeating from * to end, for a total of 18 times.

    Size M/L: every 2nd row 6x2 sts and then every 2nd row *1x2 sts, 1x2 sts and 1x1 sts repeating from * to end, for a total of 11 times.

    Size XL/XXL: every 2nd row 24x2 sts and then every 2nd row *1x2 sts and 1x1 sts repeating from * to end, for a total of 5 times.

    At the same time, continue decreasing on the left side of the sleeve on every 2nd row for 26(20)12 more times.

    When you have completed the increases on the left side, start decreasing 1 st every 2nd row until you run out of stitches.

    Now mark the places for the buttons to the front edge so that the top button is 3 cm down from the upper edge and the rest evenly below it with about 8cm between them.

    The upper part of the right front and sleeve

    Knit as the mirror image of the left one and make the buttonholes where you marked them. Buttonhole: knit 2 sts from the front edge, k2 together, make a yarn over and k to end.

    Finishing

    Sew the shoulder and sleeve seams together making sure that the seams are not too tight. Sew the under seams of the sleeves and also the side seams of the garment.

    Using Nalle Taika yarn in the flowerfield colorway crochet double crochet stitches to the neckline from the right side of the work. Crochet one chain stitch to every stitch on the right front and 3 chain stitches per stitch on the shoulder seam. On the back of the neckline crochet 1 chain st for every stripe, 3 chain sts per stitch for the second shoulder seam and 1 chain st on each stitch on the left front. On the wrong side, crochet 1 chain st on the front leg of every stitch and for the shoulder seams 3 chain sts per stitch. On the right side row, crochet 1 chain st to the back leg of each stitch and again 3 chain sts per stitch on the shoulder seams. Crochet the wrong side row as before and end by making 1 slip st into each chain st. Break the yarn.

    Using Nalle Taika yarn in the flowerfield colorway, crochet double stitches around the cuff. Crochet 36(40)44 chain sts to the edge of the sleeve. Move directly to the next round and crochet 1 double st to the back of each stitch. When you have crocheted for 4 cm, break the yarn. Make the other cuff to match.

    Steam the button bands at the same time pulling and straightening them. Also steam the seams and side seams of the sleeves and if necessarily pull and straighten them also.

    Sew on the buttons.


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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