Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
As low as €6.96
Availability: In stock
Cast on 453(505)543(595)633 sts and begin the ruffle on the WS from row 1 of chart I. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Work the 18 st pattern repeat 24(27)29(32)34 times, then work 18(17)18(17)18 sts from the right edge of the chart. Work rows 2-15 of the chart. 50(56)60(66)70 sts decreased on each RS row, 103(113)123(133)143 sts now on the needles.
Begin the lace pattern on row 1 of chart II. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Work the 6 st pattern repeat 16(17)19(21)23 times, then work 2(4)3(2)1 st(s) from the left edge of the chart. Work rows 2-8 and then keep repeating rows 1-8.
When the piece measures 33(34)35(36)37 cm, bind off 1x2(5)5(8)8 sts at both ends for the armholes = 99(103)113(117)127 sts.
Begin the raglan decreases: on a RS row, k1, k2tog, and when 3 sts remain, work the skp decrease (= slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped st over) and k1. Repeat the decreases every 2nd row 29(31)31(33)31 more times. Now decrease 0(0)2(2)5x2 sts at both ends on every 2nd row: on a RS row, k1, k3tog, and when 4 sts remain, work the sk2p decrease (= slip 1, k2tog, pass the slipped st over) and k1.
Bind off the remaining 39(39)41(41)43 sts.
Cast on 237(272)292(309)328 sts and begin the ruffle on the WS on row 1 of chart III: work 19 sts from the left edge of the chart, work the 18 st pattern repeat 12(14)15(16)17 times, work 2(1)3(2)3 sts from the right edge. Work rows 2-15 of the chart. 26(30)32(34)36 sts decreased on each RS row, 55(62)68(71)76 sts now on the needles.
Begin the lace pattern on row 1 of chart II. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Work the 6 st pattern repeat 7(8)9(10)11 times, then work 4(3)4(2)2 sts from the left edge of the chart and 4 sts in garter st. Work rows 2-8 of the lace pattern, then keep repeating rows 1-8.
When the piece measures 33(34)35(36)37 cm, bind off 1x2(5)5(8)8 sts at the right end for the armhole = 53(57)63(63)68 sts.
Begin the raglan decreases and slanted neckline: on a RS row, k1, k2tog, work until 5 sts remain, k2tog, k3. Repeat the raglan decreases on every 2nd row 24(26)28(30)31 more times and the neckline decreases on every 2nd row 22(24)28(26)30 more times. Bind off 1 st at the right end and leave the remaining 4 border sts on hold.
Place markers for the buttons on the buttonband. The topmost button will be between the ruffle and the lace at the starting point of the neckline decreases, the others below it, evenly spaced.
Work the piece as the mirror image of the left front, working buttonholes at the proper spots. Buttonhole: on a RS row, work 2 sts from the front edge, k2tog, yarn over (on the next row, knit the yo through the back loop), work to end of row. Use skp decreases when decreasing at the neckline.
Cast on 53(55)55(57)59 sts and work 2 cm of ribbing. Purl 1 WS row.
Work stockinette st at both ends and begin the lace pattern in the middle on row 1 of chart IV: k18(19)19(20)21, work the 17 st pattern, k18(19)19(20)21. Work rows 2-16 of the lace pattern, then keep repeating rows 1-16.
Note: When the piece measures 4(7)3(8)7 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 3(2,5)2,5(2)2 cm 13(15)17(19)20 more times = 81(87)91(97)101 sts. Work the increased sts in stockinette st.
When the piece measures 46(47)48(48)49 cm, bind off 1x2(5)5(8)8 sts at both ends. Then begin the raglan decreases as on the back piece. At the right end, decrease 28(26)28(26)29x1 st on every 2nd row and 1(3)3(5)4x1 st on every 4th row. At the same time at the left end, decrease 25(23)25(23)24x1 st on every 2nd row and 0(2)2(4)4x1 st on every 4th row.
After the decreases at the left end, bind off 2(2)2(2)1x4 sts and 3(3)3(3)4x5 sts on every 2nd row at the left end.
Work the piece as the mirror image of the left sleeve.
Pin the pieces to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.
Sew the raglan seams. On the front piece, pick up and knit the 4 sts on hold and cast on an additional 1 st at the front edge for seaming = 5 sts. Work in garter st until the border reaches the midpoint of the back neckline when stretched lightly. Bind off. Work the other side in the same manner. Sew the back neck seam and sew welting to the neckline.
Sew the side seams and sleeve seams. Attach the buttons.
Cast on 453(505)543(595)633 sts and begin the ruffle on the WS from row 1 of chart I. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Work the 18 st pattern repeat 24(27)29(32)34 times, then work 18(17)18(17)18 sts from the right edge of the chart. Work rows 2-15 of the chart. 50(56)60(66)70 sts decreased on each RS row, 103(113)123(133)143 sts now on the needles.
Begin the lace pattern on row 1 of chart II. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Work the 6 st pattern repeat 16(17)19(21)23 times, then work 2(4)3(2)1 st(s) from the left edge of the chart. Work rows 2-8 and then keep repeating rows 1-8.
When the piece measures 33(34)35(36)37 cm, bind off 1x2(5)5(8)8 sts at both ends for the armholes = 99(103)113(117)127 sts.
Begin the raglan decreases: on a RS row, k1, k2tog, and when 3 sts remain, work the skp decrease (= slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped st over) and k1. Repeat the decreases every 2nd row 29(31)31(33)31 more times. Now decrease 0(0)2(2)5x2 sts at both ends on every 2nd row: on a RS row, k1, k3tog, and when 4 sts remain, work the sk2p decrease (= slip 1, k2tog, pass the slipped st over) and k1.
Bind off the remaining 39(39)41(41)43 sts.
Cast on 237(272)292(309)328 sts and begin the ruffle on the WS on row 1 of chart III: work 19 sts from the left edge of the chart, work the 18 st pattern repeat 12(14)15(16)17 times, work 2(1)3(2)3 sts from the right edge. Work rows 2-15 of the chart. 26(30)32(34)36 sts decreased on each RS row, 55(62)68(71)76 sts now on the needles.
Begin the lace pattern on row 1 of chart II. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Work the 6 st pattern repeat 7(8)9(10)11 times, then work 4(3)4(2)2 sts from the left edge of the chart and 4 sts in garter st. Work rows 2-8 of the lace pattern, then keep repeating rows 1-8.
When the piece measures 33(34)35(36)37 cm, bind off 1x2(5)5(8)8 sts at the right end for the armhole = 53(57)63(63)68 sts.
Begin the raglan decreases and slanted neckline: on a RS row, k1, k2tog, work until 5 sts remain, k2tog, k3. Repeat the raglan decreases on every 2nd row 24(26)28(30)31 more times and the neckline decreases on every 2nd row 22(24)28(26)30 more times. Bind off 1 st at the right end and leave the remaining 4 border sts on hold.
Place markers for the buttons on the buttonband. The topmost button will be between the ruffle and the lace at the starting point of the neckline decreases, the others below it, evenly spaced.
Work the piece as the mirror image of the left front, working buttonholes at the proper spots. Buttonhole: on a RS row, work 2 sts from the front edge, k2tog, yarn over (on the next row, knit the yo through the back loop), work to end of row. Use skp decreases when decreasing at the neckline.
Cast on 53(55)55(57)59 sts and work 2 cm of ribbing. Purl 1 WS row.
Work stockinette st at both ends and begin the lace pattern in the middle on row 1 of chart IV: k18(19)19(20)21, work the 17 st pattern, k18(19)19(20)21. Work rows 2-16 of the lace pattern, then keep repeating rows 1-16.
Note: When the piece measures 4(7)3(8)7 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 3(2,5)2,5(2)2 cm 13(15)17(19)20 more times = 81(87)91(97)101 sts. Work the increased sts in stockinette st.
When the piece measures 46(47)48(48)49 cm, bind off 1x2(5)5(8)8 sts at both ends. Then begin the raglan decreases as on the back piece. At the right end, decrease 28(26)28(26)29x1 st on every 2nd row and 1(3)3(5)4x1 st on every 4th row. At the same time at the left end, decrease 25(23)25(23)24x1 st on every 2nd row and 0(2)2(4)4x1 st on every 4th row.
After the decreases at the left end, bind off 2(2)2(2)1x4 sts and 3(3)3(3)4x5 sts on every 2nd row at the left end.
Work the piece as the mirror image of the left sleeve.
Pin the pieces to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.
Sew the raglan seams. On the front piece, pick up and knit the 4 sts on hold and cast on an additional 1 st at the front edge for seaming = 5 sts. Work in garter st until the border reaches the midpoint of the back neckline when stretched lightly. Bind off. Work the other side in the same manner. Sew the back neck seam and sew welting to the neckline.
Sew the side seams and sleeve seams. Attach the buttons.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.