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Log cabin block A
Work in garter stitch. See layout plan for direction of knitting.
1. Starting square: using the double-pointed needles and the Silver Willow yarn held double, cast on 5 sts and work 5 rows. Break yarn.
2. Switch to Off White and work 6 rows. Leave the sts on hold.
3. On the WS move the yarn to the left end of the needle. Using a free needle pick up and knit 3 sts from the left edge of the work (previous piece) and 5 sts from the starting square = 8 sts. Work 5 rows, break yarn and leave the sts on hold on the needle.
4. Switch to Berry Porridge. Pick up 3 sts from the left end (previous piece) and 5 sts from the starting square = 8 sts. Work 5 rows. The yarn is now at the right end.
Move the yarn to the left end: *slip 2 sts, bring yarn to front, slip 1 st, bring yarn to back*, repeat *-* to end of row.
5. Using a free needle pick up 3 sts from the edge of previous piece, 5 sts from the starting square and 3 sts from the other piece = 11 sts. Work 5 rows and break yarn.
6. Switch to Wood Chip. Using a free needle pick up 3 sts from the previous piece, knit the 5 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 11 sts. Work 5 rows, then move the yarn to the left end as established at 4.
7. Pick up 3 sts from the previous piece, knit the 8 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 14 sts. Work 5 rows and break yarn. Leave the sts on hold on the needle.
8. Switch to Bark. Pick up 3 sts from the previous piece, knit the 8 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 14 sts. Work 5 rows, then move the yarn to the left end as established at 4.
9. Pick up 3 sts from the previous piece, knit the 11 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 17 sts. Work 5 rows and break yarn.
10. Switch to Sand. Pick up 3 sts from the previous piece, knit the 11 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 17 sts. Work 5 rows, then bind off all but the last st.
11. Pick up 2 sts from the previous piece (1 st already on the needle), knit the 14 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts from the other piece = 20 sts. Work 5 rows and bind off all but the last st. Bind off the last st using the next colour.
12. Switch to Log. Pick up 2 sts from the previous piece (1 st already on the needle), knit the 14 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts from the other piece = 20 sts.
Work 5 rows and bind off all but the last st.
13. Pick up 2 sts from the previous piece, knit the 17 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 23 sts. Work 5 rows and bind off.
Knit a total of 26(31) log cabin blocks in this manner.
Work like block A but using the following colours:
1. Starting square: Silver Willow held double. 2-3: Off White. 4-5: Berry Porridge. 6-7: Sand. 8-9: Log. 10-11: Wood Chip. 12-13: Bark.
Knit a total of 26(31) blocks in this manner.
Steam the blocks lightly and weave in.
Assemble the blocks following the diagram, with 40(50) blocks for the body and 6 blocks for both sleeves. Sew the blocks together using overcast seaming (whip stitching). Insert the needle through the edgemost loops only.
Using the circular needle and the Sand yarn, pick up and knit 176(212) sts from the top edge and knit the WS row. Work stockinette st. Work 3 sts at both ends in garter stitch.
When the knitted section measures 6(8) cm, divide the piece into three sections: on a RS row work 42(50) sts (right front), bind off the next 8(10) sts (armhole), work 76(92) sts (back), bind off 8(10) sts (armhole), work 42(50) sts (left front). Leave the front sts on hold.
Continue with the 76(92) sts. On every other row bind off at both ends 1x3 sts, 0(1)x2 sts and 1(2)x1 st for the armholes = 68(78) sts.
When the armhole measures 18(20) cm, bind off the middle 28(30) sts for the neckline. Work one shoulder at a time. On every other row bind off 1x2 sts at the neckline edge.
When the armhole measures 20(22) cm, bind off the 18(22) shoulder sts.
Knit the other side in the same manner.
Continue with the 42(50) sts. On every other row bind off at the left end 1x3 sts, 0(1)x2 sts and 1(2)x1 st for the armhole = 38(43) sts.
When the armhole measures 10(12) cm, leave 13(14) sts at the front edge (right end) on hold for the neckline. On every other row bind off 1x3 sts, 1x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge.
When the armhole measures 20(22) cm, bind off the 18(22) shoulder sts.
Mirror right front.
Assemble 6 blocks for the sleeve: 3 A blocks and 3 B blocks. Assemble the blocks in a 2x3 arrangement following the diagram.
Knit sleeve gussets using Sand. Begin at the top left edge: pick up and knit 24 sts from each of the top two blocks = 48 sts. Turn work, bind off 8(6) sts, work to end of row. Work the RS row, turn work, bind off 8(6) sts, work to end. Bind off 8(6) sts at the beginning of each WS row until you run out of sts.
Right edge: pick up and knit 24 sts from each of the top two blocks = 48 sts. Turn work, work the WS row. At the beginning of the RS row bind off 8(6) sts, work to end of row. Work the WS row, turn work, bind off 8(6) sts, work to end. Bind off 8(6) sts at the beginning of each RS row until you run out of sts.
Using the Sand yarn, pick up and knit 62(70) sts from the top edge and knit the WS row. Work in stockinette st.
When the stockinette st section measures 2 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 4 cm 2 more times = 68(76) sts.
When the piece measures 47(49) cm, on every other row bind off at both ends 1x5(6) sts, 1x3 sts, 2x2 sts, 9(11)x1 st, 1x2 sts and 1x3 sts. Bind off the remaining sts.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the sleeve seams and attach the sleeves.
Neckline edge: move the held sts onto the circular needle and pick up additional sts from the neckline edge for 111(115) sts in total. Work garter stitch for 4 rows, then bind off in pattern.
Log cabin block A
Work in garter stitch. See layout plan for direction of knitting.
1. Starting square: using the double-pointed needles and the Silver Willow yarn held double, cast on 5 sts and work 5 rows. Break yarn.
2. Switch to Off White and work 6 rows. Leave the sts on hold.
3. On the WS move the yarn to the left end of the needle. Using a free needle pick up and knit 3 sts from the left edge of the work (previous piece) and 5 sts from the starting square = 8 sts. Work 5 rows, break yarn and leave the sts on hold on the needle.
4. Switch to Berry Porridge. Pick up 3 sts from the left end (previous piece) and 5 sts from the starting square = 8 sts. Work 5 rows. The yarn is now at the right end.
Move the yarn to the left end: *slip 2 sts, bring yarn to front, slip 1 st, bring yarn to back*, repeat *-* to end of row.
5. Using a free needle pick up 3 sts from the edge of previous piece, 5 sts from the starting square and 3 sts from the other piece = 11 sts. Work 5 rows and break yarn.
6. Switch to Wood Chip. Using a free needle pick up 3 sts from the previous piece, knit the 5 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 11 sts. Work 5 rows, then move the yarn to the left end as established at 4.
7. Pick up 3 sts from the previous piece, knit the 8 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 14 sts. Work 5 rows and break yarn. Leave the sts on hold on the needle.
8. Switch to Bark. Pick up 3 sts from the previous piece, knit the 8 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 14 sts. Work 5 rows, then move the yarn to the left end as established at 4.
9. Pick up 3 sts from the previous piece, knit the 11 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 17 sts. Work 5 rows and break yarn.
10. Switch to Sand. Pick up 3 sts from the previous piece, knit the 11 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 17 sts. Work 5 rows, then bind off all but the last st.
11. Pick up 2 sts from the previous piece (1 st already on the needle), knit the 14 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts from the other piece = 20 sts. Work 5 rows and bind off all but the last st. Bind off the last st using the next colour.
12. Switch to Log. Pick up 2 sts from the previous piece (1 st already on the needle), knit the 14 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts from the other piece = 20 sts.
Work 5 rows and bind off all but the last st.
13. Pick up 2 sts from the previous piece, knit the 17 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 23 sts. Work 5 rows and bind off.
Knit a total of 26(31) log cabin blocks in this manner.
Work like block A but using the following colours:
1. Starting square: Silver Willow held double. 2-3: Off White. 4-5: Berry Porridge. 6-7: Sand. 8-9: Log. 10-11: Wood Chip. 12-13: Bark.
Knit a total of 26(31) blocks in this manner.
Steam the blocks lightly and weave in.
Assemble the blocks following the diagram, with 40(50) blocks for the body and 6 blocks for both sleeves. Sew the blocks together using overcast seaming (whip stitching). Insert the needle through the edgemost loops only.
Using the circular needle and the Sand yarn, pick up and knit 176(212) sts from the top edge and knit the WS row. Work stockinette st. Work 3 sts at both ends in garter stitch.
When the knitted section measures 6(8) cm, divide the piece into three sections: on a RS row work 42(50) sts (right front), bind off the next 8(10) sts (armhole), work 76(92) sts (back), bind off 8(10) sts (armhole), work 42(50) sts (left front). Leave the front sts on hold.
Continue with the 76(92) sts. On every other row bind off at both ends 1x3 sts, 0(1)x2 sts and 1(2)x1 st for the armholes = 68(78) sts.
When the armhole measures 18(20) cm, bind off the middle 28(30) sts for the neckline. Work one shoulder at a time. On every other row bind off 1x2 sts at the neckline edge.
When the armhole measures 20(22) cm, bind off the 18(22) shoulder sts.
Knit the other side in the same manner.
Continue with the 42(50) sts. On every other row bind off at the left end 1x3 sts, 0(1)x2 sts and 1(2)x1 st for the armhole = 38(43) sts.
When the armhole measures 10(12) cm, leave 13(14) sts at the front edge (right end) on hold for the neckline. On every other row bind off 1x3 sts, 1x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge.
When the armhole measures 20(22) cm, bind off the 18(22) shoulder sts.
Mirror right front.
Assemble 6 blocks for the sleeve: 3 A blocks and 3 B blocks. Assemble the blocks in a 2x3 arrangement following the diagram.
Knit sleeve gussets using Sand. Begin at the top left edge: pick up and knit 24 sts from each of the top two blocks = 48 sts. Turn work, bind off 8(6) sts, work to end of row. Work the RS row, turn work, bind off 8(6) sts, work to end. Bind off 8(6) sts at the beginning of each WS row until you run out of sts.
Right edge: pick up and knit 24 sts from each of the top two blocks = 48 sts. Turn work, work the WS row. At the beginning of the RS row bind off 8(6) sts, work to end of row. Work the WS row, turn work, bind off 8(6) sts, work to end. Bind off 8(6) sts at the beginning of each RS row until you run out of sts.
Using the Sand yarn, pick up and knit 62(70) sts from the top edge and knit the WS row. Work in stockinette st.
When the stockinette st section measures 2 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 4 cm 2 more times = 68(76) sts.
When the piece measures 47(49) cm, on every other row bind off at both ends 1x5(6) sts, 1x3 sts, 2x2 sts, 9(11)x1 st, 1x2 sts and 1x3 sts. Bind off the remaining sts.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the sleeve seams and attach the sleeves.
Neckline edge: move the held sts onto the circular needle and pick up additional sts from the neckline edge for 111(115) sts in total. Work garter stitch for 4 rows, then bind off in pattern.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.