Women's cardigan Novita 7 Veljestä, 7 Veljestä Korpi and Baby Merino

As low as €5.95

What a simply amazing design we've got here. With the main part of the cardigan worked in Novita 7 Veljestä, the real gem here is the 26 squares that make up the sleeves and the lower bodice, worked in log cabin technique.
Novita Syksy 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
11
Intermediate
Customize Women's cardigan Novita 7 Veljestä, 7 Veljestä Korpi and Baby Merino

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    N031911
    Size
    S(M/L)

    Yarn demand
    Novita 7 Veljestä
    (060) Sand 400(450) g,
    (010) Off White 100(100) g,
    (053) Berry Porridge 100(100) g,
    (694) Bark 200(200) g,

    Novita 7 Veljestä Korpi (996) Wood Chip 150(200) g,
    (999) Log 100(100) g and

    Baby Merino (326) Silver Willow 50(50) g

    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needle (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) or size needed;
    4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) double-pointed needles for the log cabin blocks.

    Designer
    Sisko Sälpäkivi

    Bottom, from blocks

    Log cabin block A

    Work in garter stitch. See layout plan for direction of knitting.

    1. Starting square: using the double-pointed needles and the Silver Willow yarn held double, cast on 5 sts and work 5 rows. Break yarn.

    2. Switch to Off White and work 6 rows. Leave the sts on hold.

    3. On the WS move the yarn to the left end of the needle. Using a free needle pick up and knit 3 sts from the left edge of the work (previous piece) and 5 sts from the starting square = 8 sts. Work 5 rows, break yarn and leave the sts on hold on the needle.

    4. Switch to Berry Porridge. Pick up 3 sts from the left end (previous piece) and 5 sts from the starting square = 8 sts. Work 5 rows. The yarn is now at the right end.

    Move the yarn to the left end: *slip 2 sts, bring yarn to front, slip 1 st, bring yarn to back*, repeat *-* to end of row.

    5. Using a free needle pick up 3 sts from the edge of previous piece, 5 sts from the starting square and 3 sts from the other piece = 11 sts. Work 5 rows and break yarn.

    6. Switch to Wood Chip. Using a free needle pick up 3 sts from the previous piece, knit the 5 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 11 sts. Work 5 rows, then move the yarn to the left end as established at 4.

    7. Pick up 3 sts from the previous piece, knit the 8 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 14 sts. Work 5 rows and break yarn. Leave the sts on hold on the needle.

    8. Switch to Bark. Pick up 3 sts from the previous piece, knit the 8 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 14 sts. Work 5 rows, then move the yarn to the left end as established at 4.

    9. Pick up 3 sts from the previous piece, knit the 11 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 17 sts. Work 5 rows and break yarn.

    10. Switch to Sand. Pick up 3 sts from the previous piece, knit the 11 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 17 sts. Work 5 rows, then bind off all but the last st.

    11. Pick up 2 sts from the previous piece (1 st already on the needle), knit the 14 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts from the other piece = 20 sts. Work 5 rows and bind off all but the last st. Bind off the last st using the next colour.

    12. Switch to Log. Pick up 2 sts from the previous piece (1 st already on the needle), knit the 14 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts from the other piece = 20 sts.

    Work 5 rows and bind off all but the last st.

    13. Pick up 2 sts from the previous piece, knit the 17 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 23 sts. Work 5 rows and bind off.

    Knit a total of 26(31) log cabin blocks in this manner.

    Log cabin block B

    Work like block A but using the following colours:

    1. Starting square: Silver Willow held double. 2-3: Off White. 4-5: Berry Porridge. 6-7: Sand. 8-9: Log. 10-11: Wood Chip. 12-13: Bark.

    Knit a total of 26(31) blocks in this manner.

    Assembling the body and sleeves

    Steam the blocks lightly and weave in.

    Assemble the blocks following the diagram, with 40(50) blocks for the body and 6 blocks for both sleeves. Sew the blocks together using overcast seaming (whip stitching). Insert the needle through the edgemost loops only.

    Body (knitted)

    Using the circular needle and the Sand yarn, pick up and knit 176(212) sts from the top edge and knit the WS row. Work stockinette st. Work 3 sts at both ends in garter stitch.

    When the knitted section measures 6(8) cm, divide the piece into three sections: on a RS row work 42(50) sts (right front), bind off the next 8(10) sts (armhole), work 76(92) sts (back), bind off 8(10) sts (armhole), work 42(50) sts (left front). Leave the front sts on hold.

    Top back

    Continue with the 76(92) sts. On every other row bind off at both ends 1x3 sts, 0(1)x2 sts and 1(2)x1 st for the armholes = 68(78) sts.

    When the armhole measures 18(20) cm, bind off the middle 28(30) sts for the neckline. Work one shoulder at a time. On every other row bind off 1x2 sts at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 20(22) cm, bind off the 18(22) shoulder sts.

    Knit the other side in the same manner.

    Top right front

    Continue with the 42(50) sts. On every other row bind off at the left end 1x3 sts, 0(1)x2 sts and 1(2)x1 st for the armhole = 38(43) sts.

    When the armhole measures 10(12) cm, leave 13(14) sts at the front edge (right end) on hold for the neckline. On every other row bind off 1x3 sts, 1x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 20(22) cm, bind off the 18(22) shoulder sts.

    Top left front

    Mirror right front.

    Sleeves

    Assemble 6 blocks for the sleeve: 3 A blocks and 3 B blocks. Assemble the blocks in a 2x3 arrangement following the diagram.

    Knit sleeve gussets using Sand. Begin at the top left edge: pick up and knit 24 sts from each of the top two blocks = 48 sts. Turn work, bind off 8(6) sts, work to end of row. Work the RS row, turn work, bind off 8(6) sts, work to end. Bind off 8(6) sts at the beginning of each WS row until you run out of sts.

    Right edge: pick up and knit 24 sts from each of the top two blocks = 48 sts. Turn work, work the WS row. At the beginning of the RS row bind off 8(6) sts, work to end of row. Work the WS row, turn work, bind off 8(6) sts, work to end. Bind off 8(6) sts at the beginning of each RS row until you run out of sts.

    Using the Sand yarn, pick up and knit 62(70) sts from the top edge and knit the WS row. Work in stockinette st.

    When the stockinette st section measures 2 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 4 cm 2 more times = 68(76) sts.

    When the piece measures 47(49) cm, on every other row bind off at both ends 1x5(6) sts, 1x3 sts, 2x2 sts, 9(11)x1 st, 1x2 sts and 1x3 sts. Bind off the remaining sts.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the sleeve seams and attach the sleeves.

    Neckline edge: move the held sts onto the circular needle and pick up additional sts from the neckline edge for 111(115) sts in total. Work garter stitch for 4 rows, then bind off in pattern.

    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 88(106) cm / 34¾(41¾) in length 86(90) cm / 33¾(35½) in inner sleeve length 47(49) cm / 18½(19¼) in

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Stockinette stitch: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
    - Garter stitch: knit all rows. Log cabin blocks: work garter stitch following the instructions.

    Gauge
    20 sts and 25 rows in stockinette st = 10 cm / 4 in; log cabin block approx. 12 cm x 12 cm (4¾ in x 4¾ in)



    Bottom, from blocks

    Log cabin block A

    Work in garter stitch. See layout plan for direction of knitting.

    1. Starting square: using the double-pointed needles and the Silver Willow yarn held double, cast on 5 sts and work 5 rows. Break yarn.

    2. Switch to Off White and work 6 rows. Leave the sts on hold.

    3. On the WS move the yarn to the left end of the needle. Using a free needle pick up and knit 3 sts from the left edge of the work (previous piece) and 5 sts from the starting square = 8 sts. Work 5 rows, break yarn and leave the sts on hold on the needle.

    4. Switch to Berry Porridge. Pick up 3 sts from the left end (previous piece) and 5 sts from the starting square = 8 sts. Work 5 rows. The yarn is now at the right end.

    Move the yarn to the left end: *slip 2 sts, bring yarn to front, slip 1 st, bring yarn to back*, repeat *-* to end of row.

    5. Using a free needle pick up 3 sts from the edge of previous piece, 5 sts from the starting square and 3 sts from the other piece = 11 sts. Work 5 rows and break yarn.

    6. Switch to Wood Chip. Using a free needle pick up 3 sts from the previous piece, knit the 5 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 11 sts. Work 5 rows, then move the yarn to the left end as established at 4.

    7. Pick up 3 sts from the previous piece, knit the 8 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 14 sts. Work 5 rows and break yarn. Leave the sts on hold on the needle.

    8. Switch to Bark. Pick up 3 sts from the previous piece, knit the 8 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 14 sts. Work 5 rows, then move the yarn to the left end as established at 4.

    9. Pick up 3 sts from the previous piece, knit the 11 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 17 sts. Work 5 rows and break yarn.

    10. Switch to Sand. Pick up 3 sts from the previous piece, knit the 11 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 17 sts. Work 5 rows, then bind off all but the last st.

    11. Pick up 2 sts from the previous piece (1 st already on the needle), knit the 14 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts from the other piece = 20 sts. Work 5 rows and bind off all but the last st. Bind off the last st using the next colour.

    12. Switch to Log. Pick up 2 sts from the previous piece (1 st already on the needle), knit the 14 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts from the other piece = 20 sts.

    Work 5 rows and bind off all but the last st.

    13. Pick up 2 sts from the previous piece, knit the 17 sts on the needle, pick up 3 sts = 23 sts. Work 5 rows and bind off.

    Knit a total of 26(31) log cabin blocks in this manner.

    Log cabin block B

    Work like block A but using the following colours:

    1. Starting square: Silver Willow held double. 2-3: Off White. 4-5: Berry Porridge. 6-7: Sand. 8-9: Log. 10-11: Wood Chip. 12-13: Bark.

    Knit a total of 26(31) blocks in this manner.

    Assembling the body and sleeves

    Steam the blocks lightly and weave in.

    Assemble the blocks following the diagram, with 40(50) blocks for the body and 6 blocks for both sleeves. Sew the blocks together using overcast seaming (whip stitching). Insert the needle through the edgemost loops only.

    Body (knitted)

    Using the circular needle and the Sand yarn, pick up and knit 176(212) sts from the top edge and knit the WS row. Work stockinette st. Work 3 sts at both ends in garter stitch.

    When the knitted section measures 6(8) cm, divide the piece into three sections: on a RS row work 42(50) sts (right front), bind off the next 8(10) sts (armhole), work 76(92) sts (back), bind off 8(10) sts (armhole), work 42(50) sts (left front). Leave the front sts on hold.

    Top back

    Continue with the 76(92) sts. On every other row bind off at both ends 1x3 sts, 0(1)x2 sts and 1(2)x1 st for the armholes = 68(78) sts.

    When the armhole measures 18(20) cm, bind off the middle 28(30) sts for the neckline. Work one shoulder at a time. On every other row bind off 1x2 sts at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 20(22) cm, bind off the 18(22) shoulder sts.

    Knit the other side in the same manner.

    Top right front

    Continue with the 42(50) sts. On every other row bind off at the left end 1x3 sts, 0(1)x2 sts and 1(2)x1 st for the armhole = 38(43) sts.

    When the armhole measures 10(12) cm, leave 13(14) sts at the front edge (right end) on hold for the neckline. On every other row bind off 1x3 sts, 1x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 20(22) cm, bind off the 18(22) shoulder sts.

    Top left front

    Mirror right front.

    Sleeves

    Assemble 6 blocks for the sleeve: 3 A blocks and 3 B blocks. Assemble the blocks in a 2x3 arrangement following the diagram.

    Knit sleeve gussets using Sand. Begin at the top left edge: pick up and knit 24 sts from each of the top two blocks = 48 sts. Turn work, bind off 8(6) sts, work to end of row. Work the RS row, turn work, bind off 8(6) sts, work to end. Bind off 8(6) sts at the beginning of each WS row until you run out of sts.

    Right edge: pick up and knit 24 sts from each of the top two blocks = 48 sts. Turn work, work the WS row. At the beginning of the RS row bind off 8(6) sts, work to end of row. Work the WS row, turn work, bind off 8(6) sts, work to end. Bind off 8(6) sts at the beginning of each RS row until you run out of sts.

    Using the Sand yarn, pick up and knit 62(70) sts from the top edge and knit the WS row. Work in stockinette st.

    When the stockinette st section measures 2 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 4 cm 2 more times = 68(76) sts.

    When the piece measures 47(49) cm, on every other row bind off at both ends 1x5(6) sts, 1x3 sts, 2x2 sts, 9(11)x1 st, 1x2 sts and 1x3 sts. Bind off the remaining sts.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Sew the shoulder seams. Sew the sleeve seams and attach the sleeves.

    Neckline edge: move the held sts onto the circular needle and pick up additional sts from the neckline edge for 111(115) sts in total. Work garter stitch for 4 rows, then bind off in pattern.


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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