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Women's sweater with cables Novita Nordic Wool Flow

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The upper part of the sweater is worked from one sleeve to another. The stitches for the hem are picked up from the upper part and the hem is worked top down using the Novita Nordic Wool Flow yarn.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2017 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 23
Skill level Expert
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N031723
Pattern details
Size
XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)

Yarn demand
Novita Nordic Wool Flow
(090) Rocky ground 400(450)500(550)600(650) g

Needles and other supplies
Circular needle (80 cm):
Novita 4-4½ mm or the size needed to obtain gauge.

Designer
Lea Petäjä

Details

The upper part of the front and the back

The left side of the piece is knitted starting from the left cuff.

Cast on 52(54)56(56)58(60) sts and begin the ribbing from a WS row: k5(6)7(7)8(9), p3, *k4, p4* repeat from * to * for 3 more times, k4, p3, k5(6)7(7)8(9). Work 2 more rows in ribbing.

Begin the cable pattern from row 1 of the chart: work 5(6)7(7)8(9) sts in reverse stockinette st, work cable pattern A (21 sts + 4 sts) from the chart, work cable pattern B (21 sts + 4 sts) and then work 5(6)7(7)8(9) sts in reverse stockinette st. 8 sts increased on this row, 60(62)64(64)66(68) sts on the needles. On the cable, repeat rows 2-13 of the chart.

When the piece measures 4(3)4(4)4(5) cm, increase 1 st on both ends. Repeat the increases every 5,5(5)5(4,5)4,5(4) cm for 7(8)8(9)9(10) more times. Work the increased sts in reverse stockinette st.

Note: When you have completed rows 2-13 of the chart once and have worked row 2 again, on the next row (row 3 of the chart) increase 1 st (= pick up the strand of yarn between the st you've just worked and the st you're about to work and knit it through the back loop) between cable patterns A and B, on both sides of the middle 4 purl sts. Mark the increase round using e.g. a piece of red yarn. Later on, remember to mark also the following increases made in between the cables. From now on the 2 sts between the cables will be worked in reverse stockinette st. Repeat the increases in the middle of the piece, on the edges of the cables every 3 cm for another 1(1)1(1)2(2) times. 4(4)4(4)6(6) sts in reverse stockinette between the cables.

When the piece measures 28(29)30(30)31(32) cm, increase 1 st in the middle of the piece, on the edges of the cables. Repeat the increases first after 6 cm and then after 3 cm 1(1)1(2)2(2) times. 10(10)10(12)14(14) sts in reverse stockinette stitch between the cables.

When the piece measures 46(47)48(49)49(50) cm and you've completed all of the increases, you have 86(90)92(96)100(104) sts on the needles. Bind off 1x2(2)3(4)4(4) sts on both ends. Now decrease on every 2nd row on both ends 7(8)8(8)9(9)x1 st: p1, p2tog and when 3 sts remain p2tog, p1. 68(70)70(72)74(78) sts on the needles. Place a marker, e.g. a piece of blue yarn, on both ends of the piece.

Work the following WS row and at the same time increase 1 st in the middle of the piece on the edges of the cables. 12(12)12(14)16(16) sts in reverse stockinette between the cables.

Begin the short rows on the next RS row: work the outermost 4(5)5(5)5(7) sts, knit the 25 st cable pattern and the 12(12)12(14)16(16) sts in between the cables. Turn work, make a yarn over, work 12(12)12(14)16(16) s sts from the WS row. Turn work, yarn over, work 12(12)12(14)16(16) sts from between the cables and the 25 cable sts (at the same time knit the yarn over from the previous row together with the following st).

Turn work, yarn over, work the 25 cable sts, work the 12(12)12(14)16(16) sts from between the cables and then the following 25 cable sts (at the same time knit the yarn over from the previous row together with the following st, making sure that the yarn over remains on the wrong side of the work). Turn work, yarn over, work the 25 cable sts, the 12(12)12(14)16(16) sts from between the cables, the following 25 cable sts and then the outermost 4(5)5(5)5(7) sts (at the same time knit the yarn over from the previous row together with the following st). Work through the WS row and at the same time knit the yarn over from the previous row together with the following st, making sure that the yarn over remains on the wrong side of the work.

Work 2 full rows and on the 1st row increase 1 st in the middle of the piece on both ends of the cable.

Repeat the short rows as before. Note that there are now 14(14)14(16)18(18) sts between the cables.

Work 2 full rows and on the second row increase 1 st in the middle of the piece on both ends of the cable. 16(16)16(18)20(20) purl sts between the cables.

Work the short rows 1(1)2(2)2(2) more times. Always work 2 full rows between the short row sections, but from now on don't increase between the cables. 74(76)76(78)80(84) sts on the needles. After completing the last set of short rows place pieces of blue yarn on both ends of the piece.

Note: When the side of the piece from the first blue marker measures approx. 4,5(6)7(7,5)8,5(9) cm unstretched, divide the work into two parts for the neckline. Leave 37(38)38(39)40(42) front sts on the left on hold and work the right side i.e. the back side of the garment first.

Neckline on the back piece

Continue knitting with the 37(38)38(39)40(42) back sts and on the first right side row decrease 1 st on the neckline edge (=knit 2 sts together at the end of the row). Repeat the decrease once more on the next right side row = 35(36)36(37)38(40) sts. Place a third blue marker to the end of the piece.

When the piece measures approx. 15,5(17)18(19,5)20,5(22) cm unstretched and measured from the first blue marker, and you've just completed either row 3 or 9 of the chart on the cable, you are halfway through the piece, in the middle of the back. Knit the other side of the neckline of the back piece as a mirror image, i.e. increase 2x1 st on every 2nd row on the neckline edge at the same place as you did on the other side of the neckline (begin the increases on the third blue marker) = 37(38)38(39)40(42) sts. Make the increases on the right side of the work, one stitch before the neckline, by purling the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop. Leave the sts on hold, finishing with a WS row. Place the 37(38)38(39)40(42) front sts back onto the needles.

Front neckline

Decrease 1 st on the first RS row on the neckline edge (= p2tog on the beginning of the row). Repeat the decrease every 2nd row 3 more times = 33(34)34(35)36(38) sts. Place a third blue marker onto the edge of the piece.

When the side of the piece measures approx. 15,5(17)18(19,5)20,5(22) cm, unstretched and measured from the first blue marker, and you've just finished the same row on the chart (either 3 or 9) as you had on the back piece, you are halfway through the piece, at the midpoint of the front. Knit the other side of the front neckline as a mirror image i.e. increase 4x1 sts on every 2nd row in the same place you did on the other side of the neckline (begin the increases on the third blue marker) = 37(38)38(39)40(42) sts. Make the increases on the right side of the work, one stitch before the neckline edge, by purling the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop. Leave the sts on hold, finishing with a WS row (make sure that you've just knitted the same row on the cable as you did on this point on the back piece).

The front and the back

(the right shoulder)

Continue knitting with the 74(76)76(78)80(84) sts for the front and the back.

Knit until the distance from the neckline equals the distance between the neckline and the second blue marker on the opposite side. Work the short rows as you did on the left shoulder. Always knit 2 full rows between the short row sections. At the red markers, remember to decrease 2 sts from between the cables (p2tog on the edge of the cable).

When you've completed the short row and the distance from the neckline equals the distance between the neckline and the first blue marker on the other side, increase 1 st on both ends of the piece. Increase on the RS row directly after the first st and just before the last st (pick up the strand of yarn between the sts and purl it through the back loop). Repeat the increases every 2nd row for 6(7)7(7)8(8) more times. Cast on a further 1x2(2)3(4)4(4) sts onto each end = 86(90)92(96)100(104) sts.

When you have worked 4(3)4(4)4(5) cm after the increases, decrease 1 st on both ends. Repeat the decreases every 5,5(5)5(4,5)4,5(4) cm for 7(8)8(9)9(10) more times. At the red markers, remember to decrease 2 sts from between the cables (p2tog on the edge of the cable).

When all of the decreases are made and the sleeve is as long as the left one, you have just completed row 4 of chart and have 60(62)64(64)66(68) sts on the needles. On the next RS row, decrease 2 sts from each of the midmost 6 st stripes (knit sts) (k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1). 8 sts decreased on that row, 52(54)56(56)58(60) sts on the needles. Work 1 row in ribbing and bind off in pattern.

The hem

Sew the inner sleeve seams.

Pick up and knit 62(68)74(78)82(88) sts from the straight part of the back piece (marked with red onto the pattern), from the right side of the work. Work reverse stockinette stitch flat and increase on every 2nd row on both ends of the piece 7(8)8(8)9(9)x1 st = 76(84)90(94)100(106) sts. Leave the sts on hold e.g. on a piece of yarn.

Pick up sts from the straight part of the front as you did on the back and knit in the same way.

Place all of the sts onto the same circular needle. Purl 1 row on the right side of the work and at the same time pick up 4(4)6(8)10(12) sts from the sleeves, from where you bound off sts for the underarm = 160(176)192(204)220(236) sts.

Turn the work wrong side up and knit stockinette st in the round. On the sides, mark 2 sts e.g. with a different yarn.

When the side measures 3(3)3(4)4(4) cm, decrease 1 st on either side of the 2 marked sts ( = p2tog) =156(172)188(200)216(232) sts. Repeat the decreases after 3 cm = 152(168)184(196)212(228) sts.

When the side of the garment measures 11(11)12(12)13(13) cm, increase 1 st on either side of the 2 marked sts (= knit the strand of yarn between sts through the back loop). Repeat the increases every 5 cm 2(2)2(3)3(3) more times and then every 6 cm 2 times = 172(188)204(220)236(252) sts.

When the side of the garment measures 38(38)40(41)41(42) cm, turn the right side of the work up and knit stockinette st in the round for 2,5 cm and then bind off.

Finishing

Lay the garment to measurements wrong side up, mist with a spray bottle and let dry.

Sew the seams on the underarms.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
Body circumference 78(86)94(102)110(118) cm Length of the garment 55(57)59(61)63(65) cm Inner sleeve length 46(47)48(49)49(50) cm

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:
- Reverse stockinette stitch:
Right side (RS) rows:
purl all sts.
Wrong side (WS) rows:
knit all sts.
- Cable pattern:
knit according to the chart and the written instructions.
- Stockinette stitch in the round:
knit all rounds.

Gauge:
20 sts and 26 rows in reverse stockinette stitch = 10 cm.
The width of the cable on the cuff of the sleeve (= 50 sts) is 16 cm.

Note:
The upper part of the sweater is worked from one sleeve to another. The stitches for the hem are picked up from the upper part and the hem is worked top down, see the direction of knitting from the pattern.

The upper part of the front and the back

The left side of the piece is knitted starting from the left cuff.

Cast on 52(54)56(56)58(60) sts and begin the ribbing from a WS row: k5(6)7(7)8(9), p3, *k4, p4* repeat from * to * for 3 more times, k4, p3, k5(6)7(7)8(9). Work 2 more rows in ribbing.

Begin the cable pattern from row 1 of the chart: work 5(6)7(7)8(9) sts in reverse stockinette st, work cable pattern A (21 sts + 4 sts) from the chart, work cable pattern B (21 sts + 4 sts) and then work 5(6)7(7)8(9) sts in reverse stockinette st. 8 sts increased on this row, 60(62)64(64)66(68) sts on the needles. On the cable, repeat rows 2-13 of the chart.

When the piece measures 4(3)4(4)4(5) cm, increase 1 st on both ends. Repeat the increases every 5,5(5)5(4,5)4,5(4) cm for 7(8)8(9)9(10) more times. Work the increased sts in reverse stockinette st.

Note: When you have completed rows 2-13 of the chart once and have worked row 2 again, on the next row (row 3 of the chart) increase 1 st (= pick up the strand of yarn between the st you've just worked and the st you're about to work and knit it through the back loop) between cable patterns A and B, on both sides of the middle 4 purl sts. Mark the increase round using e.g. a piece of red yarn. Later on, remember to mark also the following increases made in between the cables. From now on the 2 sts between the cables will be worked in reverse stockinette st. Repeat the increases in the middle of the piece, on the edges of the cables every 3 cm for another 1(1)1(1)2(2) times. 4(4)4(4)6(6) sts in reverse stockinette between the cables.

When the piece measures 28(29)30(30)31(32) cm, increase 1 st in the middle of the piece, on the edges of the cables. Repeat the increases first after 6 cm and then after 3 cm 1(1)1(2)2(2) times. 10(10)10(12)14(14) sts in reverse stockinette stitch between the cables.

When the piece measures 46(47)48(49)49(50) cm and you've completed all of the increases, you have 86(90)92(96)100(104) sts on the needles. Bind off 1x2(2)3(4)4(4) sts on both ends. Now decrease on every 2nd row on both ends 7(8)8(8)9(9)x1 st: p1, p2tog and when 3 sts remain p2tog, p1. 68(70)70(72)74(78) sts on the needles. Place a marker, e.g. a piece of blue yarn, on both ends of the piece.

Work the following WS row and at the same time increase 1 st in the middle of the piece on the edges of the cables. 12(12)12(14)16(16) sts in reverse stockinette between the cables.

Begin the short rows on the next RS row: work the outermost 4(5)5(5)5(7) sts, knit the 25 st cable pattern and the 12(12)12(14)16(16) sts in between the cables. Turn work, make a yarn over, work 12(12)12(14)16(16) s sts from the WS row. Turn work, yarn over, work 12(12)12(14)16(16) sts from between the cables and the 25 cable sts (at the same time knit the yarn over from the previous row together with the following st).

Turn work, yarn over, work the 25 cable sts, work the 12(12)12(14)16(16) sts from between the cables and then the following 25 cable sts (at the same time knit the yarn over from the previous row together with the following st, making sure that the yarn over remains on the wrong side of the work). Turn work, yarn over, work the 25 cable sts, the 12(12)12(14)16(16) sts from between the cables, the following 25 cable sts and then the outermost 4(5)5(5)5(7) sts (at the same time knit the yarn over from the previous row together with the following st). Work through the WS row and at the same time knit the yarn over from the previous row together with the following st, making sure that the yarn over remains on the wrong side of the work.

Work 2 full rows and on the 1st row increase 1 st in the middle of the piece on both ends of the cable.

Repeat the short rows as before. Note that there are now 14(14)14(16)18(18) sts between the cables.

Work 2 full rows and on the second row increase 1 st in the middle of the piece on both ends of the cable. 16(16)16(18)20(20) purl sts between the cables.

Work the short rows 1(1)2(2)2(2) more times. Always work 2 full rows between the short row sections, but from now on don't increase between the cables. 74(76)76(78)80(84) sts on the needles. After completing the last set of short rows place pieces of blue yarn on both ends of the piece.

Note: When the side of the piece from the first blue marker measures approx. 4,5(6)7(7,5)8,5(9) cm unstretched, divide the work into two parts for the neckline. Leave 37(38)38(39)40(42) front sts on the left on hold and work the right side i.e. the back side of the garment first.

Neckline on the back piece

Continue knitting with the 37(38)38(39)40(42) back sts and on the first right side row decrease 1 st on the neckline edge (=knit 2 sts together at the end of the row). Repeat the decrease once more on the next right side row = 35(36)36(37)38(40) sts. Place a third blue marker to the end of the piece.

When the piece measures approx. 15,5(17)18(19,5)20,5(22) cm unstretched and measured from the first blue marker, and you've just completed either row 3 or 9 of the chart on the cable, you are halfway through the piece, in the middle of the back. Knit the other side of the neckline of the back piece as a mirror image, i.e. increase 2x1 st on every 2nd row on the neckline edge at the same place as you did on the other side of the neckline (begin the increases on the third blue marker) = 37(38)38(39)40(42) sts. Make the increases on the right side of the work, one stitch before the neckline, by purling the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop. Leave the sts on hold, finishing with a WS row. Place the 37(38)38(39)40(42) front sts back onto the needles.

Front neckline

Decrease 1 st on the first RS row on the neckline edge (= p2tog on the beginning of the row). Repeat the decrease every 2nd row 3 more times = 33(34)34(35)36(38) sts. Place a third blue marker onto the edge of the piece.

When the side of the piece measures approx. 15,5(17)18(19,5)20,5(22) cm, unstretched and measured from the first blue marker, and you've just finished the same row on the chart (either 3 or 9) as you had on the back piece, you are halfway through the piece, at the midpoint of the front. Knit the other side of the front neckline as a mirror image i.e. increase 4x1 sts on every 2nd row in the same place you did on the other side of the neckline (begin the increases on the third blue marker) = 37(38)38(39)40(42) sts. Make the increases on the right side of the work, one stitch before the neckline edge, by purling the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop. Leave the sts on hold, finishing with a WS row (make sure that you've just knitted the same row on the cable as you did on this point on the back piece).

The front and the back

(the right shoulder)

Continue knitting with the 74(76)76(78)80(84) sts for the front and the back.

Knit until the distance from the neckline equals the distance between the neckline and the second blue marker on the opposite side. Work the short rows as you did on the left shoulder. Always knit 2 full rows between the short row sections. At the red markers, remember to decrease 2 sts from between the cables (p2tog on the edge of the cable).

When you've completed the short row and the distance from the neckline equals the distance between the neckline and the first blue marker on the other side, increase 1 st on both ends of the piece. Increase on the RS row directly after the first st and just before the last st (pick up the strand of yarn between the sts and purl it through the back loop). Repeat the increases every 2nd row for 6(7)7(7)8(8) more times. Cast on a further 1x2(2)3(4)4(4) sts onto each end = 86(90)92(96)100(104) sts.

When you have worked 4(3)4(4)4(5) cm after the increases, decrease 1 st on both ends. Repeat the decreases every 5,5(5)5(4,5)4,5(4) cm for 7(8)8(9)9(10) more times. At the red markers, remember to decrease 2 sts from between the cables (p2tog on the edge of the cable).

When all of the decreases are made and the sleeve is as long as the left one, you have just completed row 4 of chart and have 60(62)64(64)66(68) sts on the needles. On the next RS row, decrease 2 sts from each of the midmost 6 st stripes (knit sts) (k1, k2tog, k2tog, k1). 8 sts decreased on that row, 52(54)56(56)58(60) sts on the needles. Work 1 row in ribbing and bind off in pattern.

The hem

Sew the inner sleeve seams.

Pick up and knit 62(68)74(78)82(88) sts from the straight part of the back piece (marked with red onto the pattern), from the right side of the work. Work reverse stockinette stitch flat and increase on every 2nd row on both ends of the piece 7(8)8(8)9(9)x1 st = 76(84)90(94)100(106) sts. Leave the sts on hold e.g. on a piece of yarn.

Pick up sts from the straight part of the front as you did on the back and knit in the same way.

Place all of the sts onto the same circular needle. Purl 1 row on the right side of the work and at the same time pick up 4(4)6(8)10(12) sts from the sleeves, from where you bound off sts for the underarm = 160(176)192(204)220(236) sts.

Turn the work wrong side up and knit stockinette st in the round. On the sides, mark 2 sts e.g. with a different yarn.

When the side measures 3(3)3(4)4(4) cm, decrease 1 st on either side of the 2 marked sts ( = p2tog) =156(172)188(200)216(232) sts. Repeat the decreases after 3 cm = 152(168)184(196)212(228) sts.

When the side of the garment measures 11(11)12(12)13(13) cm, increase 1 st on either side of the 2 marked sts (= knit the strand of yarn between sts through the back loop). Repeat the increases every 5 cm 2(2)2(3)3(3) more times and then every 6 cm 2 times = 172(188)204(220)236(252) sts.

When the side of the garment measures 38(38)40(41)41(42) cm, turn the right side of the work up and knit stockinette st in the round for 2,5 cm and then bind off.

Finishing

Lay the garment to measurements wrong side up, mist with a spray bottle and let dry.

Sew the seams on the underarms.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

Find size guides for your knitting projects

With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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