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Women's Sweater Novita 7 Brothers

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Bright colours give this traditional yoke sweater a modern look.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2016 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 15
Skill level Intermediate
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N031615
Pattern details
Size
XS/S(M)L(XL)

Yarn demand
Novita 7 Veljestä (7 Brothers)
A - white 400(450)500(550) g
B - sand slightly less than 100(100)100(100) g
C - fuchsia 50(50)50(slightly less than100) g
D - honey 50(50)50(50) g
E - forget-me-not 50(50)50(slightly less than100) g
F - cyclamen 50(50)50(50) g
G - soot slightly less than 100(100)100(100) g

Needles and other supplies
Needles:
1 x 3.5-4.0 mm (40 cm) Novita circular needle
1 x 3.5-4.0 (80 cm) Novita circular needle
1 x 4.0-4.5 mm (40 cm) Novita circular needle
1 x 4.0-4.5 mm (80 cm) Novita circular needle
1 Set of 3.5-4.0 mm Novita double point needles
1 Set of 4.0-4.5 mm Novita double point needles
Or the sizes required to give the correct tension.

Designer
Lea Petäjä

Details

Yoke

Using yarn G and smaller short circular needle cast on 98 (100) 102 (104) sts. Join to work in the round and work 2.5 (2.5) 3 (3) cm in rib.

Change to larger short circular needle and work 1 (1) 3 (3) row(s) in st st: on the first row increase evenly 22 (24) 26 (28) sts = 120 (124) 128 (132) sts.

Start following chart I from row 1 and repeat the 4 stitch pattern for 30 (31) 32 (33) times. Then, repeat rows 2-3 twice.

Sizes L and XL only: Using yarn G work 1 (2) row(s) in st st and at the same time increase evenly 8 (8) sts on the first row = 136 (140) sts.

All sizes: Work rows 4-5 of chart I and at the same time increase evenly 24 (26) 26 (28) sts on row 5 = 144 (150) 162 (168) sts.

Change to longer circular needle when needed.

Continue following chart I from row 6 and repeat the 6 stitch pattern for 24 (25) 27 (28) times. Work rows 7-25. Rows 9, 14 and 24 are increase rows and the number of sts is increased by 24 (25) 27 (28) sts on each of them. You have now 216 (225) 243 (252) sts on the needle.

Size XL only: Work 1 row with yarn A and 1 row with yarn B.

All sizes: Work rows 26-27 and on the row 27 increase evenly 12 (15) 9 (12) sts = 228 (240) 252 (264) sts.

Continue following the chart from row 28 and repeat the 12 stitch pattern for 19 (20) 21 (22) times. Work rows 29-36.

At this point move the beginning of the round in the following manner:

Size XS/S: Slip the first stitch of the next round onto the right needle without working it.

Sizes M, L and XL: Slip 1 (2) 4 st(s) from the right needle onto the left needle.

The beginning of the round is now moved and shown for each size by an arrow in the bottom of chart I.

You have now 70 (74) 78 (82) sts for front, 44 (46) 48 (50) sts for one sleeve, 70 (74) 78 (82) sts for back and 44 (46) 48 (50) sts for another sleeve.

Lower portion of front yoke

Next, continue work with only 70 (74) 78 82 sts of the front and leave the others on hold for a while. Follow the chart and work back and forth in the following way:

Start from row 37 and at the same time cast on 1 st at the end of next 2 (2) 4 (4) rows, 2 sts at the end of next 4 rows and 4 (5) 6 (8) sts at the end of next 2 rows. You have now 88 (94) 102 (110) sts on the needle. Take the increased sts into colorwork pattern. After working these increases, leave the front sts on hold for a while.

Lower portion of back yoke

Work as the lower portion of the front yoke.

Body

Take both front and back sts back into work and join to work in the round. Continue following chart I. If the pattern repeat won't line up at the ‘side seam', ie. the point where the front piece changes to back piece, go to the beginning of the stitch pattern of the respective round and work the back piece starting from there. When you have finished row 66, work the rest of the piece with only yarn A.

When the piece measures 41 (42) 43 (44) cm from underarm, purl 1 row (= fold line). Change to smaller long circular needle. Work 6 cm in st st and cast off all sts using a stretchy cast off method.

Fold hem to WS along fold line and sew in place.

Sleeves

Pick up 44 (46) 48 (50) sleeve sts on hold onto larger long circular needle. Next, work back and forth in colourwork starting from row 37 and at the same time cast on 1 st at the end of next 2 (2) 4 (4) rows, 2 sts at the end of next 4 rows and 4 (5) 6 (8) sts at the end of next 2 rows. You have now 62 (66) 72 (76) sts on the needle. Take the increased sts into colorwork pattern. After working these increases, change to larger double pointed needles, join to work in the round and keep following chart I (note that the pattern won't line up).

Note! When you have worked 3 (2) 1 (2) cm in the round, start decreasing in the following way:

Next round: K2tog, keeping the pattern correct work to 2 sts before the end, skp.

Repeat these decreases every 3.5 (3) 3 (2.5) cm for 9 (10) 12 (13) times more = 42 (44) 46 (48) sts.

When you have finished row 66, change to yarn A and work in st st.

When the sleeve measures 36 (37) 38 (39) cm, start following chart II from row 1 at the point determined in the following way: The centre line of the sleeve is shown by an arrow in the bottom of the chart. Use it as a guideline to count the point where you should start following the chart. Keep repeating the six stitch pattern to end and note that the pattern repeat won't line up with the total number of stitches.

Work rows 1-12 of chart II. Work the rest of the sleeve with yarn A only.

Work 2 rows in st st. Change to smaller double pointed needles and work 5 cm in rib. Cast off in rib.

Work another sleeve to match.

Finishing

Join underarm seams. Lay the finished piece to measures on a flat surface with the WS facing and steam block gently.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
Body circumference 88(96)104(112) cm Centre back 60(61)63(65) cm Underarm sleeve 47(48)49(50) cm

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:
- Rib stitch in the round:
All rows: *K1, p1*

Yoke

Using yarn G and smaller short circular needle cast on 98 (100) 102 (104) sts. Join to work in the round and work 2.5 (2.5) 3 (3) cm in rib.

Change to larger short circular needle and work 1 (1) 3 (3) row(s) in st st: on the first row increase evenly 22 (24) 26 (28) sts = 120 (124) 128 (132) sts.

Start following chart I from row 1 and repeat the 4 stitch pattern for 30 (31) 32 (33) times. Then, repeat rows 2-3 twice.

Sizes L and XL only: Using yarn G work 1 (2) row(s) in st st and at the same time increase evenly 8 (8) sts on the first row = 136 (140) sts.

All sizes: Work rows 4-5 of chart I and at the same time increase evenly 24 (26) 26 (28) sts on row 5 = 144 (150) 162 (168) sts.

Change to longer circular needle when needed.

Continue following chart I from row 6 and repeat the 6 stitch pattern for 24 (25) 27 (28) times. Work rows 7-25. Rows 9, 14 and 24 are increase rows and the number of sts is increased by 24 (25) 27 (28) sts on each of them. You have now 216 (225) 243 (252) sts on the needle.

Size XL only: Work 1 row with yarn A and 1 row with yarn B.

All sizes: Work rows 26-27 and on the row 27 increase evenly 12 (15) 9 (12) sts = 228 (240) 252 (264) sts.

Continue following the chart from row 28 and repeat the 12 stitch pattern for 19 (20) 21 (22) times. Work rows 29-36.

At this point move the beginning of the round in the following manner:

Size XS/S: Slip the first stitch of the next round onto the right needle without working it.

Sizes M, L and XL: Slip 1 (2) 4 st(s) from the right needle onto the left needle.

The beginning of the round is now moved and shown for each size by an arrow in the bottom of chart I.

You have now 70 (74) 78 (82) sts for front, 44 (46) 48 (50) sts for one sleeve, 70 (74) 78 (82) sts for back and 44 (46) 48 (50) sts for another sleeve.

Lower portion of front yoke

Next, continue work with only 70 (74) 78 82 sts of the front and leave the others on hold for a while. Follow the chart and work back and forth in the following way:

Start from row 37 and at the same time cast on 1 st at the end of next 2 (2) 4 (4) rows, 2 sts at the end of next 4 rows and 4 (5) 6 (8) sts at the end of next 2 rows. You have now 88 (94) 102 (110) sts on the needle. Take the increased sts into colorwork pattern. After working these increases, leave the front sts on hold for a while.

Lower portion of back yoke

Work as the lower portion of the front yoke.

Body

Take both front and back sts back into work and join to work in the round. Continue following chart I. If the pattern repeat won't line up at the ‘side seam', ie. the point where the front piece changes to back piece, go to the beginning of the stitch pattern of the respective round and work the back piece starting from there. When you have finished row 66, work the rest of the piece with only yarn A.

When the piece measures 41 (42) 43 (44) cm from underarm, purl 1 row (= fold line). Change to smaller long circular needle. Work 6 cm in st st and cast off all sts using a stretchy cast off method.

Fold hem to WS along fold line and sew in place.

Sleeves

Pick up 44 (46) 48 (50) sleeve sts on hold onto larger long circular needle. Next, work back and forth in colourwork starting from row 37 and at the same time cast on 1 st at the end of next 2 (2) 4 (4) rows, 2 sts at the end of next 4 rows and 4 (5) 6 (8) sts at the end of next 2 rows. You have now 62 (66) 72 (76) sts on the needle. Take the increased sts into colorwork pattern. After working these increases, change to larger double pointed needles, join to work in the round and keep following chart I (note that the pattern won't line up).

Note! When you have worked 3 (2) 1 (2) cm in the round, start decreasing in the following way:

Next round: K2tog, keeping the pattern correct work to 2 sts before the end, skp.

Repeat these decreases every 3.5 (3) 3 (2.5) cm for 9 (10) 12 (13) times more = 42 (44) 46 (48) sts.

When you have finished row 66, change to yarn A and work in st st.

When the sleeve measures 36 (37) 38 (39) cm, start following chart II from row 1 at the point determined in the following way: The centre line of the sleeve is shown by an arrow in the bottom of the chart. Use it as a guideline to count the point where you should start following the chart. Keep repeating the six stitch pattern to end and note that the pattern repeat won't line up with the total number of stitches.

Work rows 1-12 of chart II. Work the rest of the sleeve with yarn A only.

Work 2 rows in st st. Change to smaller double pointed needles and work 5 cm in rib. Cast off in rib.

Work another sleeve to match.

Finishing

Join underarm seams. Lay the finished piece to measures on a flat surface with the WS facing and steam block gently.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

Find size guides for your knitting projects

With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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