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Women's sideways tunic Novita Nordic Wool

As low as €1.90

This classic tunic reminds us of Helsinki's modern architecture. The tunic is knitted sideways from the right cuff to the left. Adorned with bobbles and cables, the tunic is sure to keep you warm on cool spring and summer days.
Magazine Novita Kesä 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 1
Skill level Expert
Women's sideways tunic Novita Nordic Wool
Novita circular needles 80 cm-5.0 mm
€3.80
Novita finishing needles
€1.90

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Women's sideways tunic Novita Nordic Wool
Women's sideways tunic Novita Nordic Wool

In stock

€1.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N02191
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M(L/XL)XXL(3XL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Nordic Wool
    (010) Off White 600(650)700(750)800(850) g

    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (2), 80 cm / 32 in
    Novita 5-5½ mm (UK 5-6 / US 8-9) or size needed for gauge

    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Details

    Right side

    The tunic is started from the right cuff. Cast on 74(74)78(80)82(84) sts and knit the WS row.

    Begin the textured pattern and the cables on row 1 of chart I: k2(2)3(3)4(4), work section D (= 32 sts), k6(6)8(10)10(12), section E (= 32 sts), k2(2)3(3)4(4). Keep working the 2(2)3(3)4(4) sts at both ends and the 6(6)8(10)10(12) sts in the middle in stockinette st. Work rows 2-12 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-12.

    When the piece measures 4(4)4(5)2(3) cm, place markers for the middle 2 sts of the piece. Begin increases on both sides of the marked sts: on a RS row work to 1 st before the marked sts, work a right-leaning increase (= knit the right leg of the st below the next st), work 4 sts, work a left-leaning increase (= knit the left leg of the st below the previous st), work to end. Repeat the increases every 4,5(4,5)4(4)4(4) cm 6(6)7(7)8(8) more times.

    Note: When the piece measures 27(25)26(26)27(27) cm, increase 1 st inside 1 st at both edges (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop). Repeat the increases every 2(2)2(3)3(4) cm 1(2)2(2)2(2) more time(s) and then 2(2)2(3)3(4) more times every 1 cm. Also work the increased sts in stockinette st.

    When you have completed the increases at the ends and in the middle there are 96(98)104(108)112(116) sts in total and the piece measures approx. 31(31)32(33)34(35) cm.

    At the end of the next RS row cast on 91(91)95(95)99(99) sts for the back piece. Work the WS row, purling the increased sts. At the end of row cast on 83(83)87(87)91(91) sts for the front piece. 270(272)286(290)302(306) sts now on the needles. Continue with two circular needles.

    At the front hem work 7(7)9(9)7(7) sts in garter st, 3(3)3(3)4(3) sts in reverse stockinette st. Follow row 5(1)31(27)23(17) of chart II and work section A (= 16 sts), 3(3)3(3)4(3) sts in reverse stockinette st, 5(5)6(6)6(6) sts in garter st, 3(3)3(3)4(3) sts in reverse stockinette st, work section B (= 16 sts), 3(3)3(3)4(3) sts in reverse stockinette st, 5(5)6(6)6(6) sts in garter st, 3(3)3(3)4(3) in reverse stockinette st, work section C (= 16 sts), 3(3)3(3)4(3) sts in reverse stockinette st, 6(7)8(9)10(11) sts in stockinette st. Resume section D (= 32 sts) following chart I, work the middle 20(20)24(26)28(30) sts in stockinette st, resume section E (= 32 sts) following chart I. Work 6(7)8(9)10(11) sts in stockinette st, 3(3)3(3)4(3) sts in reverse stockinette st, work section A (= 16 sts) following row 5(1)31(27)23(17) of chart II, work 3(3)3(3)4(3) sts in reverse stockinette st, 5(5)6(6)6(6) sts in garter st, 3(3)3(3)4(3) sts reverse stockinette st, work section B (=16 sts). Work 3(3)3(3)4(3) sts in reverse stockinette st, 5(5)6(6)6(6) sts in garter st, 3(3)3(3)4(3) sts in reverse stockinette st, work section C (= 16 sts), work 3(3)3(3)4(3) sts in reverse stockinette st and 15(15)17(17)15(15) sts at the back hem in garter st.

    On sections A, B and C work rows 6(2)32(28)24(18)-36 of chart II, then repeat rows 1-36 1(1)2(2)2(2) time(s). The right end of the piece (hem) now measures approx. 28(30)32(34)36(38) cm and you're at the midpoint of the piece (centre front/back).

    Note: When the right end of the piece measures 15,5(17,5)19(21)22,5(24,5) cm, on a RS row work the 131(132)139(141)147(149) front sts. Break yarn and leave the back sts on hold on the other circular needle.

    Cast on 8 sts at the end of the front sts for the collar. On the WS purl the collar sts and work the front sts as established = 139(140)147(149)155(157) sts. Work the collar sts in garter st and begin neckline decreases at the edge of the collar: on the RS row work to last 9 sts, k2tog, k7. Repeat the decrease every other round 6 more times = 132(133)140(142)148(150) sts.

    When the right end of the piece (hem) measures approx. 28(30)32(34)36(38) cm, you are at the midpoint of the piece (centre front). Work the other side of the front neckline as a mirror image. Increase 7x1 sts on every other row at the same spot as on the other side (= knit through the back loop the strand of yarn between the sts 8 sts from the edge). When you have completed the WS row after the increases, leave the 8 collar sts on hold on e.g. a piece of yarn and the 131(132)139(141)147(149) sts on the circular needle.

    Cast on 8 sts for the back collar. On the WS purl the collar sts and work the back sts as established = 147(148)155(157)163(165) sts. Work the collar sts in garter st and begin neckline decreases at the edge of the collar: on the RS row k7, k2tog, work to end. Repeat the decrease every other round 3 more times = 143(144)151(153)159(161) sts.

    When the left end of the piece (hem) measures approx. 28(30)32(34)36(38) cm, you are at the midpoint of the piece (centre back). Work the other side of the back neckline as a mirror image. Increase 4x1 st on every other row at the same spot as on the other side (= knit through the back loop the strand of yarn between the sts 8 sts from the edge). When you have completed the WS row after the decreases and you have reached the same row as the front sts that are on hold, leave the 8 collar sts on hold. 139(140)147(149)155(157) sts now on the back piece.

    Left side

    Continue working the 270(272)286(290)302(306) front and back sts until the piece measures 56(60)64(68)72(76) cm from the hem and you have worked row 31(35)5(9)13(21) of chart II on sections A, B and C.

    Bind off 83(83)87(87)91(91) sts at the right edge (front piece) and 91(91)95(95)99(99) sts at the left edge (back piece) for the sides = 96(98)104(108)112(116) sts. Mark the middle 2 sts for the decreases.

    Continue working the sts as established. On the next RS row begin decreases at both ends and at the middle: k1, k2tog, work to last 2 sts before marked sts, skp (= slip 1 st knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), k2, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, skp, k1. Repeat the decreases at both ends every 1 cm 1(1)1(2)2(3) more time(s), then 1(2)2(2)2(2) time(s) every 2 cm. Repeat the middle decreases every 4,5(4,5)4(4)4(4) cm 6(6)7(7)8(8) more times. When the sleeve matches the right sleeve, knit and bind off the remaining 74(74)78(78)80(82) sts on the WS.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.

    Sew the side seams and sleeve seams. Sew the collar seams.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 112(120)128(136)144(152) cm / 44(47¼)50½(53½)56¾(59¾) in back length 70,5(71,5)75(76)78,5(79,5) cm / 27¾(28¼)29½(30)31(31¼) in the front piece is shorter by 4,5(4,5)5(5)4,5)4,5 cm / 1¾(1¾)2(2)1¾(1¾) in inner sleeve length 31(31)32(33)34(35) cm / 12¼(12¼)12½(13)13½(13¾) in

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Cable pattern and textured pattern: work following the chart and instructions.
    - Stockinette stitch: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
    - Garter stitch: knit all rows.

    Gauge
    16 sts and 24 rows of stockinette st = 10 cm / 4 in

    Note
    The tunic is knitted sideways from the right cuff to the left following the direction of knitting on the pattern.



    Right side

    The tunic is started from the right cuff. Cast on 74(74)78(80)82(84) sts and knit the WS row.

    Begin the textured pattern and the cables on row 1 of chart I: k2(2)3(3)4(4), work section D (= 32 sts), k6(6)8(10)10(12), section E (= 32 sts), k2(2)3(3)4(4). Keep working the 2(2)3(3)4(4) sts at both ends and the 6(6)8(10)10(12) sts in the middle in stockinette st. Work rows 2-12 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-12.

    When the piece measures 4(4)4(5)2(3) cm, place markers for the middle 2 sts of the piece. Begin increases on both sides of the marked sts: on a RS row work to 1 st before the marked sts, work a right-leaning increase (= knit the right leg of the st below the next st), work 4 sts, work a left-leaning increase (= knit the left leg of the st below the previous st), work to end. Repeat the increases every 4,5(4,5)4(4)4(4) cm 6(6)7(7)8(8) more times.

    Note: When the piece measures 27(25)26(26)27(27) cm, increase 1 st inside 1 st at both edges (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop). Repeat the increases every 2(2)2(3)3(4) cm 1(2)2(2)2(2) more time(s) and then 2(2)2(3)3(4) more times every 1 cm. Also work the increased sts in stockinette st.

    When you have completed the increases at the ends and in the middle there are 96(98)104(108)112(116) sts in total and the piece measures approx. 31(31)32(33)34(35) cm.

    At the end of the next RS row cast on 91(91)95(95)99(99) sts for the back piece. Work the WS row, purling the increased sts. At the end of row cast on 83(83)87(87)91(91) sts for the front piece. 270(272)286(290)302(306) sts now on the needles. Continue with two circular needles.

    At the front hem work 7(7)9(9)7(7) sts in garter st, 3(3)3(3)4(3) sts in reverse stockinette st. Follow row 5(1)31(27)23(17) of chart II and work section A (= 16 sts), 3(3)3(3)4(3) sts in reverse stockinette st, 5(5)6(6)6(6) sts in garter st, 3(3)3(3)4(3) sts in reverse stockinette st, work section B (= 16 sts), 3(3)3(3)4(3) sts in reverse stockinette st, 5(5)6(6)6(6) sts in garter st, 3(3)3(3)4(3) in reverse stockinette st, work section C (= 16 sts), 3(3)3(3)4(3) sts in reverse stockinette st, 6(7)8(9)10(11) sts in stockinette st. Resume section D (= 32 sts) following chart I, work the middle 20(20)24(26)28(30) sts in stockinette st, resume section E (= 32 sts) following chart I. Work 6(7)8(9)10(11) sts in stockinette st, 3(3)3(3)4(3) sts in reverse stockinette st, work section A (= 16 sts) following row 5(1)31(27)23(17) of chart II, work 3(3)3(3)4(3) sts in reverse stockinette st, 5(5)6(6)6(6) sts in garter st, 3(3)3(3)4(3) sts reverse stockinette st, work section B (=16 sts). Work 3(3)3(3)4(3) sts in reverse stockinette st, 5(5)6(6)6(6) sts in garter st, 3(3)3(3)4(3) sts in reverse stockinette st, work section C (= 16 sts), work 3(3)3(3)4(3) sts in reverse stockinette st and 15(15)17(17)15(15) sts at the back hem in garter st.

    On sections A, B and C work rows 6(2)32(28)24(18)-36 of chart II, then repeat rows 1-36 1(1)2(2)2(2) time(s). The right end of the piece (hem) now measures approx. 28(30)32(34)36(38) cm and you're at the midpoint of the piece (centre front/back).

    Note: When the right end of the piece measures 15,5(17,5)19(21)22,5(24,5) cm, on a RS row work the 131(132)139(141)147(149) front sts. Break yarn and leave the back sts on hold on the other circular needle.

    Cast on 8 sts at the end of the front sts for the collar. On the WS purl the collar sts and work the front sts as established = 139(140)147(149)155(157) sts. Work the collar sts in garter st and begin neckline decreases at the edge of the collar: on the RS row work to last 9 sts, k2tog, k7. Repeat the decrease every other round 6 more times = 132(133)140(142)148(150) sts.

    When the right end of the piece (hem) measures approx. 28(30)32(34)36(38) cm, you are at the midpoint of the piece (centre front). Work the other side of the front neckline as a mirror image. Increase 7x1 sts on every other row at the same spot as on the other side (= knit through the back loop the strand of yarn between the sts 8 sts from the edge). When you have completed the WS row after the increases, leave the 8 collar sts on hold on e.g. a piece of yarn and the 131(132)139(141)147(149) sts on the circular needle.

    Cast on 8 sts for the back collar. On the WS purl the collar sts and work the back sts as established = 147(148)155(157)163(165) sts. Work the collar sts in garter st and begin neckline decreases at the edge of the collar: on the RS row k7, k2tog, work to end. Repeat the decrease every other round 3 more times = 143(144)151(153)159(161) sts.

    When the left end of the piece (hem) measures approx. 28(30)32(34)36(38) cm, you are at the midpoint of the piece (centre back). Work the other side of the back neckline as a mirror image. Increase 4x1 st on every other row at the same spot as on the other side (= knit through the back loop the strand of yarn between the sts 8 sts from the edge). When you have completed the WS row after the decreases and you have reached the same row as the front sts that are on hold, leave the 8 collar sts on hold. 139(140)147(149)155(157) sts now on the back piece.

    Left side

    Continue working the 270(272)286(290)302(306) front and back sts until the piece measures 56(60)64(68)72(76) cm from the hem and you have worked row 31(35)5(9)13(21) of chart II on sections A, B and C.

    Bind off 83(83)87(87)91(91) sts at the right edge (front piece) and 91(91)95(95)99(99) sts at the left edge (back piece) for the sides = 96(98)104(108)112(116) sts. Mark the middle 2 sts for the decreases.

    Continue working the sts as established. On the next RS row begin decreases at both ends and at the middle: k1, k2tog, work to last 2 sts before marked sts, skp (= slip 1 st knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), k2, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, skp, k1. Repeat the decreases at both ends every 1 cm 1(1)1(2)2(3) more time(s), then 1(2)2(2)2(2) time(s) every 2 cm. Repeat the middle decreases every 4,5(4,5)4(4)4(4) cm 6(6)7(7)8(8) more times. When the sleeve matches the right sleeve, knit and bind off the remaining 74(74)78(78)80(82) sts on the WS.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.

    Sew the side seams and sleeve seams. Sew the collar seams.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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