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Women's lace tunic Novita 7 Veljestä Pohjola

Women's lace tunic Novita 7 Veljestä Pohjola

As low as €1.90

Knitted from Novita 7 Veljestä Pohjola, the tunic features a beautiful lace pattern on the sleeves and neckline.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 14
Skill level Intermediate

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Women's lace tunic Novita 7 Veljestä Pohjola
Women's lace tunic Novita 7 Veljestä Pohjola

In stock

€1.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N041814
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita 7 Veljestä Pohjola
    Halti 600(650)700(750)800(850) g

    Needles and other supplies
    Needles:
    Novita 3½–4 mm (UK 8–9½ / US 4–6) and
    Novita 4–4½ mm (UK 7–8 / US 6–7) or sizes needed

    Circular needle (40 cm / 16 in)
    Novita 3½–4 mm for the neckline edge

    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Details

    Back

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 98(104)110(122)128(138) sts and work ribbing for 4 cm. Switch to the larger needles. Work stockinette st and increase 1(1)1(1)0(1) st on the first row = 99(105)111(123)128(139) sts.

    When the piece measures 34(35)35(36)36(37) cm, decrease 1 st at both ends. Repeat the decreases every 3 cm 5(5)5(5)5(4) more times = 87(93)99(111)118(129) sts.

    When the piece measures 57(58)59(60)62(63) cm, place markers for armholes at both ends. Work 2 rows of stockinette st.

    Begin the lace pattern from row 1 of chart I(II)III(II)III(II: work 2(3)4(3)4(3) sts from the right edge and work the pattern repeat [= 17(18)19(18)19(18) sts + 1 st] a total of 5(5)5(6)6(7) times. Work rows 2–20 of the chart and then keep repeating rows 1–20.

    Note: On each pattern repeat you will increase 1 st on the RS row. These are decreased on the following WS row.

    When the armhole measures 18(19)20(21)21(22) cm, bind off the middle 33(33)33(35)36(35) sts for the neckline. Work one side of the neckline at a time.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, bind off the remaining 27(30)33(38)41(47) shoulder sts.

    Knit the other side of the neckline to match.

    Front

    Work as you did the back, but leave the middle 21(21)21(23)24(23) sts on hold for the neckline when the armhole measures 9(10)11(12)12(13) cm. Work one side of the neckline at a time and bind off 3x2 on every 2nd row at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, bind off the remaining 27(30)33(38)41(47) shoulder sts.

    Knit the other side of the neckline to match.

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 51(53)55(53)55(53) sts and work ribbing for 1,5 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the lace pattern from row 1 of chart I(II)III(II)III(II): work 1 st at the right edge and then keep repeating the pattern repeat to end of row. Work rows 2–20 of the chart and then keep repeating rows 1–20.

    Note: On each pattern repeat you will increase 1 st on the RS row. These are decreased on the following WS row.

    When the piece measures 12(13)13(14)11(9) cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 5(5)4(3)3,5(3) cm 6(6)8(11)10(13) more times = 65(67)73(77)77(81) sts. At both ends, work 2(3)4(3)4(3) sts next to the lace pattern in moss st. Work the other sts in stockinette st.

    When the piece measures 47(48)49(50)50(51) cm, bind off.

    Knit the other sleeve to match.

    Finishing

    Pin the pieces to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.

    Sew the shoulder seams.

    Neckline edge: Using the circular needle, pick up and knit the sts on hold at the neckline as well as additional sts from the neckline edge for 108(108)108(110)110(112) sts in total. Start from one of the shoulders. Work ribbing in the round for 2,5 cm and bind off in pattern.

    Attach the sleeves following the red markers on the pattern. Sew the sleeve seams and side seams.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 88(96)104(114)122(132) cm / 34¾(37¾)41(45)48(52) in length 76(78)80(82)84(86) cm / 30(30¾)31½(32¼)33(33¾) in inner sleeve length 47(48)49(50)50(51) cm / 18½(19)19¼(19¾)19¾(20) in

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns:
    - Ribbing:
    *k1, p1*, repeat *–* to end of row. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.
    - Stockinette stitch:
    Right side rows: knit all sts.
    Wrong side rows: purl all sts.
    - Lace pattern:
    work following the chart and the written instructions.
    - Ribbing in the round:
    *k1, p1*, repeat *–*.

    Gauge:
    19 sts and 26 rows of stockinette st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in

    Back

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 98(104)110(122)128(138) sts and work ribbing for 4 cm. Switch to the larger needles. Work stockinette st and increase 1(1)1(1)0(1) st on the first row = 99(105)111(123)128(139) sts.

    When the piece measures 34(35)35(36)36(37) cm, decrease 1 st at both ends. Repeat the decreases every 3 cm 5(5)5(5)5(4) more times = 87(93)99(111)118(129) sts.

    When the piece measures 57(58)59(60)62(63) cm, place markers for armholes at both ends. Work 2 rows of stockinette st.

    Begin the lace pattern from row 1 of chart I(II)III(II)III(II: work 2(3)4(3)4(3) sts from the right edge and work the pattern repeat [= 17(18)19(18)19(18) sts + 1 st] a total of 5(5)5(6)6(7) times. Work rows 2–20 of the chart and then keep repeating rows 1–20.

    Note: On each pattern repeat you will increase 1 st on the RS row. These are decreased on the following WS row.

    When the armhole measures 18(19)20(21)21(22) cm, bind off the middle 33(33)33(35)36(35) sts for the neckline. Work one side of the neckline at a time.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, bind off the remaining 27(30)33(38)41(47) shoulder sts.

    Knit the other side of the neckline to match.

    Front

    Work as you did the back, but leave the middle 21(21)21(23)24(23) sts on hold for the neckline when the armhole measures 9(10)11(12)12(13) cm. Work one side of the neckline at a time and bind off 3x2 on every 2nd row at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, bind off the remaining 27(30)33(38)41(47) shoulder sts.

    Knit the other side of the neckline to match.

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 51(53)55(53)55(53) sts and work ribbing for 1,5 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the lace pattern from row 1 of chart I(II)III(II)III(II): work 1 st at the right edge and then keep repeating the pattern repeat to end of row. Work rows 2–20 of the chart and then keep repeating rows 1–20.

    Note: On each pattern repeat you will increase 1 st on the RS row. These are decreased on the following WS row.

    When the piece measures 12(13)13(14)11(9) cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 5(5)4(3)3,5(3) cm 6(6)8(11)10(13) more times = 65(67)73(77)77(81) sts. At both ends, work 2(3)4(3)4(3) sts next to the lace pattern in moss st. Work the other sts in stockinette st.

    When the piece measures 47(48)49(50)50(51) cm, bind off.

    Knit the other sleeve to match.

    Finishing

    Pin the pieces to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.

    Sew the shoulder seams.

    Neckline edge: Using the circular needle, pick up and knit the sts on hold at the neckline as well as additional sts from the neckline edge for 108(108)108(110)110(112) sts in total. Start from one of the shoulders. Work ribbing in the round for 2,5 cm and bind off in pattern.

    Attach the sleeves following the red markers on the pattern. Sew the sleeve seams and side seams.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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