My Cart

Mini Cart

Women's lace socks Novita Venla

As low as €0.00

Knitted from Novita Venla yarn and adorned by a pair of ribbons, these beautiful lace socks are replete with the spirit of spring.
Magazine Novita Kevät 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 34
Skill level Expert
Women's lace socks Novita Venla
€6.90

* Required Fields

Your Customization
Women's lace socks Novita Venla
Women's lace socks Novita Venla

In stock

€0.00

- +
Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N011834
    Pattern details
    Size
    approx. 38

    Yarn demand
    Novita Venla
    (010) Off-white 150 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Double-pointed needles:
    Novita 2½–3 mm or size needed to obtain gauge
    and
    1 larger needle (4 mm) for the cast-on

    Other supplies:
    Narrow lace ribbon, 2 m (www.tyykipuoti.fi)

    Designer
    Sisko Sälpäkivi

    Details

    Right sock

    Using the larger needle, cast on 90 sts and distribute them onto the smaller needles: 22, 23, 22 and 23 sts. Purl 1 round and knit 2 rounds. Begin the lace pattern from row 1 of chart I. Work the 9 st pattern repeat 10 times.

    Work rows 1–14. On row 14 evenly decrease 6 sts = 84 sts.

    Then work rows 15–24 a total of 3 times (pattern repeated 6 times each row). Note that the number of sts on the lace pattern varies from row to row.

    Knit 3 rounds (rows 25–27 of the chart).

    Work a round with holes following row 28 of the chart: *k2tog, yo*, repeat *–* to end. Knit 3 rounds (rows 29–31 of the chart). On the second round evenly decrease 7 sts = 77 sts.

    Then work rows 32–36. 7 st pattern repeated 11 times each row. Knit 3 rounds (rows 37–39 of the chart). Work row 40 (with holes), knit the last st. Knit 4 rounds (rows 41–44 of the chart). On the third round evenly decrease 5 sts = 72 sts.

    Work rows 45–51. 12 st pattern repeated 6 times each row. Knit 4 rounds (rows 52–55 of the chart).

    Work row 56 of the chart (with holes). Knit 3 rounds (rows 57–59) and on the second round evenly decrease 6 sts = 66 sts.

    Work rows 60–79 of the chart. 11 st pattern repeated 6 times each row. Knit 3 rounds (rows 80–82 of the chart). On the second round evenly decrease 6 sts = 60 sts.

    Work rows 83–86 of the chart.

    Work rows 87–93 of the chart. 6 st pattern repeated 10 times each row. Then work rows 94–100 of the chart.

    Work rows 101–105 of the chart. 6 st pattern repeated 10 times each row. Work rows 94–100 of the chart.

    Begin the heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 30 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work and begin the reinforced st pattern:

    Row 1: (WS) slip 1 (yarn in back), purl to end of row. Turn work.

    Row 2: (RS) *sl 1 (yarn in back), k1*, repeat *–* to end. Turn work.

    Repeat rows 1–2 for 14 more times (=30 rows). Work another WS row.

    Turn the heel: Begin working the reinforced st pattern as before: On the heel flap, work the RS row until 11 sts remain. Work the skp decrease (= slip 1, knit 1 and pass the slipped st over) and turn work. Sl 1, p8, p2tog. Turn work. Sl 1, keep working until 10 sts remain, skp. Continue in the same manner, decreasing sts on the sides while the middle group remains at 10 sts. When only the centre sts remain, distribute the heel sts by knitting them onto 2 needles, 5 sts each.

    Using a free needle pick up 15 sts from the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the heel flap and needle II. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. Knit all sts on needles II and III. At the end of needle III: k2tog. 29 sts in total on needles II and III. Using the needle with 5 sts, pick up 15 sts from the right edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop, and knit the 5 heel flap sts. 71 sts on the needles. Distribute the sts onto four needles: 21 sts on needle I, 15 sts on needle II, 14 sts on needle III and 21 sts on needle IV.

    Begin working the gusset decreases and the lace pattern from row 1 of chart II. Needle I: k19, k2tog. Needles II and III: work the lace pattern from the chart (=29 + 4 sts). Needle IV: skp, k19. Work needles I and IV in stockinette st, repeat the gusset decreases as before 5 more times, and on the lace pattern work rows 2–10 and then keep repeating rows 1–10 (note that the number of sts on the lace section varies from row to row).

    When the sole measures approx. 20 cm and you have last worked row 4 of the chart, begin the toe decreases from row 11 of the chart: at the end of needle I k2tog, k1, work needles II and III following the chart, at the beginning of needle IV k1, skp. Repeat the decreases on needles I and IV every 2nd round as before. On needles II and III work rows 12–26 of the chart. Note: When you have worked the decreases 6 times in total, start decreasing on every round.

    When 11 sts remain, break the yarn, pass it through the remaining stitches and pull tightly to close the hole. Securely weave in the yarn end.

    Knit the other sock to match.

    Finishing

    Steam the socks lightly.

    Pass the lace ribbons through the holes on the cuffs. Tie the ribbons into bow knots on the sides.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    Size approx. 38

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns:
    - Stockinette stitch in the round:
    knit all rows.
    - Lace pattern in the round:
    follow the chart and the written instructions.

    Gauge:
    28 sts of stockinette stitch = 10 cm


    Right sock

    Using the larger needle, cast on 90 sts and distribute them onto the smaller needles: 22, 23, 22 and 23 sts. Purl 1 round and knit 2 rounds. Begin the lace pattern from row 1 of chart I. Work the 9 st pattern repeat 10 times.

    Work rows 1–14. On row 14 evenly decrease 6 sts = 84 sts.

    Then work rows 15–24 a total of 3 times (pattern repeated 6 times each row). Note that the number of sts on the lace pattern varies from row to row.

    Knit 3 rounds (rows 25–27 of the chart).

    Work a round with holes following row 28 of the chart: *k2tog, yo*, repeat *–* to end. Knit 3 rounds (rows 29–31 of the chart). On the second round evenly decrease 7 sts = 77 sts.

    Then work rows 32–36. 7 st pattern repeated 11 times each row. Knit 3 rounds (rows 37–39 of the chart). Work row 40 (with holes), knit the last st. Knit 4 rounds (rows 41–44 of the chart). On the third round evenly decrease 5 sts = 72 sts.

    Work rows 45–51. 12 st pattern repeated 6 times each row. Knit 4 rounds (rows 52–55 of the chart).

    Work row 56 of the chart (with holes). Knit 3 rounds (rows 57–59) and on the second round evenly decrease 6 sts = 66 sts.

    Work rows 60–79 of the chart. 11 st pattern repeated 6 times each row. Knit 3 rounds (rows 80–82 of the chart). On the second round evenly decrease 6 sts = 60 sts.

    Work rows 83–86 of the chart.

    Work rows 87–93 of the chart. 6 st pattern repeated 10 times each row. Then work rows 94–100 of the chart.

    Work rows 101–105 of the chart. 6 st pattern repeated 10 times each row. Work rows 94–100 of the chart.

    Begin the heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 30 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work and begin the reinforced st pattern:

    Row 1: (WS) slip 1 (yarn in back), purl to end of row. Turn work.

    Row 2: (RS) *sl 1 (yarn in back), k1*, repeat *–* to end. Turn work.

    Repeat rows 1–2 for 14 more times (=30 rows). Work another WS row.

    Turn the heel: Begin working the reinforced st pattern as before: On the heel flap, work the RS row until 11 sts remain. Work the skp decrease (= slip 1, knit 1 and pass the slipped st over) and turn work. Sl 1, p8, p2tog. Turn work. Sl 1, keep working until 10 sts remain, skp. Continue in the same manner, decreasing sts on the sides while the middle group remains at 10 sts. When only the centre sts remain, distribute the heel sts by knitting them onto 2 needles, 5 sts each.

    Using a free needle pick up 15 sts from the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the heel flap and needle II. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. Knit all sts on needles II and III. At the end of needle III: k2tog. 29 sts in total on needles II and III. Using the needle with 5 sts, pick up 15 sts from the right edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop, and knit the 5 heel flap sts. 71 sts on the needles. Distribute the sts onto four needles: 21 sts on needle I, 15 sts on needle II, 14 sts on needle III and 21 sts on needle IV.

    Begin working the gusset decreases and the lace pattern from row 1 of chart II. Needle I: k19, k2tog. Needles II and III: work the lace pattern from the chart (=29 + 4 sts). Needle IV: skp, k19. Work needles I and IV in stockinette st, repeat the gusset decreases as before 5 more times, and on the lace pattern work rows 2–10 and then keep repeating rows 1–10 (note that the number of sts on the lace section varies from row to row).

    When the sole measures approx. 20 cm and you have last worked row 4 of the chart, begin the toe decreases from row 11 of the chart: at the end of needle I k2tog, k1, work needles II and III following the chart, at the beginning of needle IV k1, skp. Repeat the decreases on needles I and IV every 2nd round as before. On needles II and III work rows 12–26 of the chart. Note: When you have worked the decreases 6 times in total, start decreasing on every round.

    When 11 sts remain, break the yarn, pass it through the remaining stitches and pull tightly to close the hole. Securely weave in the yarn end.

    Knit the other sock to match.

    Finishing

    Steam the socks lightly.

    Pass the lace ribbons through the holes on the cuffs. Tie the ribbons into bow knots on the sides.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

    Reviews

    Write Your Own Review

    Only registered users can write reviews. Please Sign in or create an account