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Women's knitted sweater Novita Nalle

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The sweater is knitted top-down in one piece. No seams are sewn except for sizes XXL and 3XL which have short underarm seams.
Magazine Novita Kevät 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 33
Skill level Intermediate
Women's knitted sweater Novita Nalle
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90

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Women's knitted sweater Novita Nalle
Women's knitted sweater Novita Nalle

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N011833
    Pattern details
    Size
    S(M)L(XL)XXL(3XL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Nalle
    (712) Freesia 250(300)350(400)450(500) g

    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (60 cm and 80 cm):
    Novita nr 4 mm or size needed to obtain gauge
    Circular needles (40 cm):
    Novita nr 3½ for the neckline
    Double-pointed needles:
    Novita nr 3½
    Novita nr 4 for the sleeves

    Designer
    Sisko Sälpäkivi

    Details

    Neckline and upper half

    Using the shorter 4 mm needles cast on 90(90)92(92)94(94) sts. Purl the WS row and at the same time mark the spot for the raglan increases: p1 in the front section, p2 to start the first raglan seam (mark the sts with e.g. a piece of yarn), purl the 19 sleeve sts, p2 at the raglan seam (mark the sts), p42(42)44(44)46(46) in the back, p2 at the raglan seam (mark the sts), p19 at the other sleeve, p2 at the raglan seam (mark the sts), and p1 in the front section. Do not start working in the round until the instructions state so.

    Begin working the increases and lace pattern with the sleeve sts from row 1 of chart: (RS) knit the first front section st through the front and back loops (= 1 st + 1 st), make 1 (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k2 (marked sts), with the sleeve sts work row 1 of the lace pattern (=yarn over, k1, repeat 8 st pattern twice, k2, m1), k2 (marked sts), m1, k42(42)44(44)46(46) in the back, m1, k2 (marked sts), work row 1 of the lace pattern with the other sleeve, k2 (marked sts), m1, knit the last front st through the front and back loops (=1 st + 1 st). 10 sts increased, 100(100)102(102)104(104) sts on the needles.

    Work the raglan increases on both sides of the 2 marked sts on every 2nd row for 5 times in total (the increases for the sleeve sections are shown in the chart). Work rows 2–12 in the lace pattern and then keep repeating rows 1–12. Work the increased sts on the sleeves following the lace pattern. Make sure the decreases and increases on the lace pattern match so that number of stitches remains correct at all times.

    Note: While you are working the raglan increases, at the same time increase 4x1 st and 2x2 sts on every 2nd row at both ends for the neckline (=knit the first and last st through the front and back loops). At the end of the next RS row cast on 22(22)24(24)26(26) sts. Now switch to working in the round.

    Note: When you have worked the raglan increases a total of 5 times, continue working the decreases in the front and back 10(15)19(30)28(28) times on every 2nd round, 10(8)6(0)0(0) times on every 3rd round, and at the same time another 25(27)28(30)28(28) times on every 2nd round with sleeve sts. Switch to the longer 4 mm circular needle when you need to.

    350(370)386(414)402(402) sts in total after the raglan increases and front neckline increases.

    Move the markers so that they are in the middle of the raglan seams (between the 2 knit sts). Work to the marker at the left end of the back piece.

    94(100)106(116)114(114) sts in the front and back pieces, 81(85)87(91)87(87) sts on the sleeves.

    Sizes XXL and 3XL: keep working the 114(114) back sts and cast on at both ends on every 2nd round 1(2)x2 sts and 1x5 sts = 128(132) sts. Do the same in the front.

    Sizes XXL and 3XL: on both sleeves keep working the 87(87) sts and cast on at both ends on every 2nd round 1(2)x2 sts and 1x5 sts = 101(105) sts.

    Leave the sleeve sts on hold and continue working the front and back sts.

    Note: Mark the row you have last worked on the chart before you leave the sleeve sts on hold.

    Lower bodice

    Work the 94(100)106(116)128(132) back sts, cast on 6(10)12(14)16(24) sts for the armhole in place of the sleeve sts on hold, work the 94(100)106(116)128(132) front sts, and cast on 6(10)12(14)16(24) sts for the other armhole = 200(220)236(260)288(312) sts. Remove the markers at the raglan seams.

    Continue working in the round. Mark the sides with e.g. a different-coloured yarn at the midpoint of the sts you cast on at the armholes.

    When the lower bodice measures 29(30)31(33)36(38) cm or the length you want, begin working in ribbing. On the first round evenly decrease 16(20)20(24)24(28) sts = 184(200)216(236)264(284) sts.

    When you worked 6 cm in ribbing, bind off in pattern.

    Sleeves

    Using the larger double-pointed needles, place the 81(85)87(91)101(105) sts of the first sleeve onto the needles and pick up and knit 6(10)12(14)14(20) sts from the increased bodice sts at the armhole = 87(95)99(105)115(125) sts. Place a marker at the midpoint of the picked-up sts to the beginning of the round.

    Continue the lace pattern from where you were before leaving the sts on hold.

    When the inner sleeve measures approx. 3(3)4(5)5(6) cm and you have last worked a knit row in the lace pattern, knit 1 round and at the same time evenly decrease 19(23)23(25)31(33) sts = 68(72)76(80)84(92) sts.

    Switch to the smaller double-pointed needles and work ribbing in the round for 3 cm. Bind off in pattern.

    Knit the other sleeve to match.

    Finishing

    Neckline edge: Using the short circular needle, pick up 124(124)128(128)132(132) sts at the neckline edge. Begin the from one of the raglan seams in the back. Work 3 cm of ribbing in the round and bind off in pattern.

    Sizes XXL and 3XL: Sew the seams at the underarms.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 92(100)108(118)130(142) cm length in the back at midpoint 54(56)58(61)64(67) cm inner sleeve length 6(6)7(8)8(9) cm

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns:
    - Stockinette stitch flat:
    right side rows: knit all stitches.
    Wrong side rows: purl all stitches.
    - Stockinette stitch in the round:
    knit all rows.
    - Lace pattern:
    follow the chart and the written instructions.
    - Rib-bing in the round:
    *k2, p2*, repeat *–*.

    Gauge:
    22 sts and 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 cm

    Note:
    The sweater is knitted top-down in one piece. No seams are sewn except for sizes XXL and 3XL which have short underarm seams.

    Neckline and upper half

    Using the shorter 4 mm needles cast on 90(90)92(92)94(94) sts. Purl the WS row and at the same time mark the spot for the raglan increases: p1 in the front section, p2 to start the first raglan seam (mark the sts with e.g. a piece of yarn), purl the 19 sleeve sts, p2 at the raglan seam (mark the sts), p42(42)44(44)46(46) in the back, p2 at the raglan seam (mark the sts), p19 at the other sleeve, p2 at the raglan seam (mark the sts), and p1 in the front section. Do not start working in the round until the instructions state so.

    Begin working the increases and lace pattern with the sleeve sts from row 1 of chart: (RS) knit the first front section st through the front and back loops (= 1 st + 1 st), make 1 (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k2 (marked sts), with the sleeve sts work row 1 of the lace pattern (=yarn over, k1, repeat 8 st pattern twice, k2, m1), k2 (marked sts), m1, k42(42)44(44)46(46) in the back, m1, k2 (marked sts), work row 1 of the lace pattern with the other sleeve, k2 (marked sts), m1, knit the last front st through the front and back loops (=1 st + 1 st). 10 sts increased, 100(100)102(102)104(104) sts on the needles.

    Work the raglan increases on both sides of the 2 marked sts on every 2nd row for 5 times in total (the increases for the sleeve sections are shown in the chart). Work rows 2–12 in the lace pattern and then keep repeating rows 1–12. Work the increased sts on the sleeves following the lace pattern. Make sure the decreases and increases on the lace pattern match so that number of stitches remains correct at all times.

    Note: While you are working the raglan increases, at the same time increase 4x1 st and 2x2 sts on every 2nd row at both ends for the neckline (=knit the first and last st through the front and back loops). At the end of the next RS row cast on 22(22)24(24)26(26) sts. Now switch to working in the round.

    Note: When you have worked the raglan increases a total of 5 times, continue working the decreases in the front and back 10(15)19(30)28(28) times on every 2nd round, 10(8)6(0)0(0) times on every 3rd round, and at the same time another 25(27)28(30)28(28) times on every 2nd round with sleeve sts. Switch to the longer 4 mm circular needle when you need to.

    350(370)386(414)402(402) sts in total after the raglan increases and front neckline increases.

    Move the markers so that they are in the middle of the raglan seams (between the 2 knit sts). Work to the marker at the left end of the back piece.

    94(100)106(116)114(114) sts in the front and back pieces, 81(85)87(91)87(87) sts on the sleeves.

    Sizes XXL and 3XL: keep working the 114(114) back sts and cast on at both ends on every 2nd round 1(2)x2 sts and 1x5 sts = 128(132) sts. Do the same in the front.

    Sizes XXL and 3XL: on both sleeves keep working the 87(87) sts and cast on at both ends on every 2nd round 1(2)x2 sts and 1x5 sts = 101(105) sts.

    Leave the sleeve sts on hold and continue working the front and back sts.

    Note: Mark the row you have last worked on the chart before you leave the sleeve sts on hold.

    Lower bodice

    Work the 94(100)106(116)128(132) back sts, cast on 6(10)12(14)16(24) sts for the armhole in place of the sleeve sts on hold, work the 94(100)106(116)128(132) front sts, and cast on 6(10)12(14)16(24) sts for the other armhole = 200(220)236(260)288(312) sts. Remove the markers at the raglan seams.

    Continue working in the round. Mark the sides with e.g. a different-coloured yarn at the midpoint of the sts you cast on at the armholes.

    When the lower bodice measures 29(30)31(33)36(38) cm or the length you want, begin working in ribbing. On the first round evenly decrease 16(20)20(24)24(28) sts = 184(200)216(236)264(284) sts.

    When you worked 6 cm in ribbing, bind off in pattern.

    Sleeves

    Using the larger double-pointed needles, place the 81(85)87(91)101(105) sts of the first sleeve onto the needles and pick up and knit 6(10)12(14)14(20) sts from the increased bodice sts at the armhole = 87(95)99(105)115(125) sts. Place a marker at the midpoint of the picked-up sts to the beginning of the round.

    Continue the lace pattern from where you were before leaving the sts on hold.

    When the inner sleeve measures approx. 3(3)4(5)5(6) cm and you have last worked a knit row in the lace pattern, knit 1 round and at the same time evenly decrease 19(23)23(25)31(33) sts = 68(72)76(80)84(92) sts.

    Switch to the smaller double-pointed needles and work ribbing in the round for 3 cm. Bind off in pattern.

    Knit the other sleeve to match.

    Finishing

    Neckline edge: Using the short circular needle, pick up 124(124)128(128)132(132) sts at the neckline edge. Begin the from one of the raglan seams in the back. Work 3 cm of ribbing in the round and bind off in pattern.

    Sizes XXL and 3XL: Sew the seams at the underarms.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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