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Women's knitted dress Novita Venla

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A beautiful lace yoke adorns this top-down dress from Novita Venla yarn.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2017 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 40
Skill level Intermediate
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N041740
Pattern details
Size
XS/S(M)L(XL)XXL

Yarn demand
Novita Venla
(010) Off-white 400(450)500(550)600 g

Needles and other supplies
Circular needles:
Novita 3½ mm (80 cm)
Novita 3½ mm (60 cm)
Novita 3½ mm (40 cm) or size needed to obtain gauge

Double-pointed needles:
Novita 3½ mm for the sleeves

Designer
Lea Petäjä

Details

Yoke

Using the shorter circular needles, cast on 128(132)136(136)140 sts and work ribbing in the round for 2 cm. Work stockinette st in the round for 3(3)3(5)5 rounds. On the first round, evenly decrease 2 sts (XS/S) or evenly increase 0 (M) sts, 2 sts (L), 8 sts (XL) or 10 sts (XXL) = 126(132)138(144)150 sts.

Begin the lace pattern in the round from row 1 of the chart. Repeat the 6 st pattern repeat for 21(22)23(24)25 times. Then work rows 2-6 of the chart. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of the round to make the lace pattern easier to follow.

Work row 7 of chart. 2 sts increased on every pattern repeat, 168(176)184(192)200 sts on the needles. Work rows 8-14.

Work row 15 of chart. 2 sts increased on every pattern repeat, 210(220)230(240)250 sts on the needles. Work rows 16-26.

Work row 27 of chart. 2 sts increased on every pattern repeat, 252(264)276(288)300 sts on the needles. Work rows 28-38.

Note: Switch to a longer circular needle when there are too many sts for the shorter needle.

Work row 39 of chart. 2 sts increased on every pattern repeat, 294(308)322(336)350 sts on the needles. Work rows 40-50.

Work row 51. 2 sts increased on every pattern repeat, 336(352)368(384)400 sts on the needles. Work row 52 of chart.

Continue working stockinette st in the round until the yoke measures approx. 16,5(17,5)18,5(18,5)19,5 cm.

Distribute the sts into four groups: 98(104)110(118)124 sts for the back, 70(72)74(74)76 sts for the sleeve, 98(104)110(118)124 sts for the front, and 70(72)74(74)76 sts for the other sleeve.

Continue working the 98(104)110(118)124 sts of the back piece flat, casting on at both ends on every 2nd row (end of row) 2(2)1(1)1x1 st, 1(1)2(1)1x2 sts, 0(0)0(1)1x3 sts and 1x3(5)6(7)9 sts = 112(122)132(144)154 sts. Leave the back sts on hold, and do the above for the front sts.

Front and back bottom

Move the front and back sts onto the same circular needle = 224(244)264(288)308 sts. Work stockinette st in the round. Mark 2 sts at the side seams for the side increases. The beginning of round is at the side seam, between the two marked sts.

When you have worked 5(5)6(6)6 cm in stockinette st with these sts, begin the increases on both sides of the side seams: k1 (marked st), make 1 st (= knit the yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to next marker, make 1 st, k2, increase 1 st, work to next marker, make 1 st, k1. 4 sts increased, 228(248)268(292)312 sts on the needle.

Repeat the increases in this manner every 5 cm for 7 more times = 256(276)296(320)340 sts.

When you have worked for approx. 80(81)82(84)85 cm with the bottom sts, work 3 cm more of ribbing in the round. Bind off in pattern.

Sleeves

Pick up the 70(72)74(74)76 sleeve sts on hold. Work stockinette st flat, picking up on every 2nd row (at the end of row) 2(2)1(1)1x1 st, 1(1)2(1)1x2 sts, 0(0)0(1)1x3 sts and 1x3(4)5(7)8 sts from the armhole = 84(88)94(100)104 sts.

Distribute the sts onto four double-pointed needles and work stockinette st in the round. The beginning of the round is between needles I and IV where the seam would be.

When you have worked 3(2)3(2)2 cm in the round, begin the decreases: k1 at the beginning of round, k2tog, work until 3 sts remain, skp (= slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped st over), k1. Repeat the decreases every 2,5(2,5)2(2)2 cm for 14(16)17(19)20 more times = 54(54)58(60)62 sts.

When the inner sleeve measures 43(44)45(45)46 cm, knit 1 round while decreasing 2(2)2(0)2 sts = 52(52)56(60)60 sts. Work 3 cm more in ribbing and bind off in pattern.

Knit the other sleeve to match.

Finishing

Lay the piece to measurements wrong side up and steam lightly.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
Body circumference 86(94)102(110)118 cm Length in the back at midpoint 102(104)106(108)110 cm Inner sleeve length 46(47)48(48)49 cm

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:
- Ribbing in the round:
*k2, p2*

Yoke

Using the shorter circular needles, cast on 128(132)136(136)140 sts and work ribbing in the round for 2 cm. Work stockinette st in the round for 3(3)3(5)5 rounds. On the first round, evenly decrease 2 sts (XS/S) or evenly increase 0 (M) sts, 2 sts (L), 8 sts (XL) or 10 sts (XXL) = 126(132)138(144)150 sts.

Begin the lace pattern in the round from row 1 of the chart. Repeat the 6 st pattern repeat for 21(22)23(24)25 times. Then work rows 2-6 of the chart. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of the round to make the lace pattern easier to follow.

Work row 7 of chart. 2 sts increased on every pattern repeat, 168(176)184(192)200 sts on the needles. Work rows 8-14.

Work row 15 of chart. 2 sts increased on every pattern repeat, 210(220)230(240)250 sts on the needles. Work rows 16-26.

Work row 27 of chart. 2 sts increased on every pattern repeat, 252(264)276(288)300 sts on the needles. Work rows 28-38.

Note: Switch to a longer circular needle when there are too many sts for the shorter needle.

Work row 39 of chart. 2 sts increased on every pattern repeat, 294(308)322(336)350 sts on the needles. Work rows 40-50.

Work row 51. 2 sts increased on every pattern repeat, 336(352)368(384)400 sts on the needles. Work row 52 of chart.

Continue working stockinette st in the round until the yoke measures approx. 16,5(17,5)18,5(18,5)19,5 cm.

Distribute the sts into four groups: 98(104)110(118)124 sts for the back, 70(72)74(74)76 sts for the sleeve, 98(104)110(118)124 sts for the front, and 70(72)74(74)76 sts for the other sleeve.

Continue working the 98(104)110(118)124 sts of the back piece flat, casting on at both ends on every 2nd row (end of row) 2(2)1(1)1x1 st, 1(1)2(1)1x2 sts, 0(0)0(1)1x3 sts and 1x3(5)6(7)9 sts = 112(122)132(144)154 sts. Leave the back sts on hold, and do the above for the front sts.

Front and back bottom

Move the front and back sts onto the same circular needle = 224(244)264(288)308 sts. Work stockinette st in the round. Mark 2 sts at the side seams for the side increases. The beginning of round is at the side seam, between the two marked sts.

When you have worked 5(5)6(6)6 cm in stockinette st with these sts, begin the increases on both sides of the side seams: k1 (marked st), make 1 st (= knit the yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to next marker, make 1 st, k2, increase 1 st, work to next marker, make 1 st, k1. 4 sts increased, 228(248)268(292)312 sts on the needle.

Repeat the increases in this manner every 5 cm for 7 more times = 256(276)296(320)340 sts.

When you have worked for approx. 80(81)82(84)85 cm with the bottom sts, work 3 cm more of ribbing in the round. Bind off in pattern.

Sleeves

Pick up the 70(72)74(74)76 sleeve sts on hold. Work stockinette st flat, picking up on every 2nd row (at the end of row) 2(2)1(1)1x1 st, 1(1)2(1)1x2 sts, 0(0)0(1)1x3 sts and 1x3(4)5(7)8 sts from the armhole = 84(88)94(100)104 sts.

Distribute the sts onto four double-pointed needles and work stockinette st in the round. The beginning of the round is between needles I and IV where the seam would be.

When you have worked 3(2)3(2)2 cm in the round, begin the decreases: k1 at the beginning of round, k2tog, work until 3 sts remain, skp (= slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped st over), k1. Repeat the decreases every 2,5(2,5)2(2)2 cm for 14(16)17(19)20 more times = 54(54)58(60)62 sts.

When the inner sleeve measures 43(44)45(45)46 cm, knit 1 round while decreasing 2(2)2(0)2 sts = 52(52)56(60)60 sts. Work 3 cm more in ribbing and bind off in pattern.

Knit the other sleeve to match.

Finishing

Lay the piece to measurements wrong side up and steam lightly.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

Find size guides for your knitting projects

With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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