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Women's crocheted lace cardigan Novita Baby Merino

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The crocheted lace cardigan features a knitted border. From Novita Baby Merino.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 45
Skill level Intermediate
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N041845
Pattern details
Size
XS/S(M)L(XL)XXL

Yarn demand
Novita Baby Merino
(011) White 250(300)350(400)450 g

Needles and other supplies
Crochet hook:
Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US C-2 or D-3)

Circular needle (80 cm / 32 in):
Novita 2½-3 mm (UK 11-12½ / US 2) for the border

Designer
Lea Petäjä

Details

Back

Chain 127(139)151(163)175 (ch sts) for the beginning chain.

Row 1 (see chart): Work 1 double crochet (dc) into the 2nd ch st from the hook, work 1 dc into each ch st on the beginning chain.

Row 2: ch 4 (= 1st tr + 1 ch st), skip 1 dc, work 3 trebles (tr), ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 tr, *ch1, skip 1 dc, 3 tr, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 tr*, repeat *-* 19(21)23(25)27 more times. 21(23)25(27)29 pattern repeats in total.

Keep repeating rows 3-6 of the chart.

When the piece measures 28(29)30(31)32 cm, leave off 1(1)1½(1½)2 pattern repeats at both ends for the armholes (at the beginning of the row, use slip sts to get past the sts in question, and leave the sts unworked at end of the row). Decrease 1(1)1½(1½)2 more pattern repeats at both ends on the next 4(4)6(6)8 rows. 17(19)19(21)21 pattern repeats in total.

When the armhole measures 18(19)10(21)22 cm, leave off the middle 11 pattern repeats for the neckline. Work one shoulder at a time. 3(4)4(5)5 pattern repeats on the shoulder.

When the armhole measures 20(21)22(23)24 cm, break the yarn and crochet the other shoulder in the same manner.

Left front

Chain 55(61)67(73)79 for the beginning chain.

Row 1 (see chart I): Work 1 dc into the 2nd ch st from the hook, then work 1 dc into each st in the beginning chain.

Row 2: ch 4 (= 1st tr + 1 ch st), skip 1 dc, work 3 tr, 1 dc, skip 1 dc, work 1 tr, *ch 1, skip 1 dc, 3 tr, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 tr*, repeat *-* 7(8)9(10)11 more times. 9(10)11(12)13 pattern repeats in total.

Keep repeating rows 3-6 of the chart.

When the piece measures 25(26)27(28)29 cm, begin decreases for the neckline at the front edge (= left end). Decrease 1 pattern repeat on the next 4 rows, then ½ a pattern repeat per each 4 rows. Decrease a total of 4 pattern repeats at the front edge.

Note: When the piece measures 28(29)30(31)32 cm, leave off 1(1)1½(1½)2 pattern repeats at the right end for the armhole. Decrease 1(1)1½(1½)2 more pattern repeats at the right end on the next 4(4)6(6)8 rows.

When the armhole measures 20(21)22(23)24 cm, break the yarn.

Right front

Work as the mirror image of the left front.

Sleeves

Chain 85(85)91(91)97 for the beginning chain.

Row 1 (see chart I): Work 1 dc into the 2nd ch st from the hook, then work 1 dc into each st in the beginning chain.

Row 2: ch 4 (= 1st tr + 1 ch st), skip 1 dc, work 3 tr, 1 dc, skip 1 dc, work 1 tr, *ch 1, skip 1 dc, 3 tr, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 tr*, repeat *-* 12(12)13(13)14 more times. 14(14)15(15)16 pattern repeats in total.

Keep repeating rows 3-6 of the chart.

When the piece measures approx. 8(6)6(5)5 cm, begin increases. Increase ½ a pattern repeat at both ends per each 4 rows a total of 2(3)3(4)4 times. 1(1½)1½(2)2 pattern repeats increased at both ends.

When the piece measures 15(16)16(17)17 cm, leave off 1½(1½)2(2)2 pattern repeats at both ends for the armholes (at the beginning of the row, use slip sts to get past the sts in question, and leave the sts unworked at end of the row). Then decrease 1 pattern repeat per each 4 rows until the top of the sleeve measures approx. 12(13)14(15)16 cm. Break the yarn.

Crochet the other sleeve to match.

Finishing

Pin the pieces to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.

Crochet the left shoulder seam on the WS using dc. Crochet the right shoulder seam using dc from the shoulder to the neckline. Don't break the yarn. On the RS, crochet 66 dc into the neckline on the back piece. Break the yarn.

Crochet or sew the side seams and sleeve seams. Attach the sleeves.

Border: Join the yarn with 1 dc into the bottom corner at the front edge of the right front piece (see chart II). Ch 2 (= 1st tr) and work trebles to the front edge following the chart. On the back neckline, work 1 tr into each dc. Work trebles to the left front edge as established.

Do not break the yarn. Using a circular needle, pick up and knit the last st and additional sts from the WS, 1 st per each tr. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2. Pick the sts up from their front loops on the WS. Work the picked-up sts in ribbing.

When the border measures approx. 5,5 cm and you have last worked a WS row, bind off in crochet: take the hook through 2 sts, pick up the yarn and pull it through the 3 sts on the hook, *ch 1 in between, take the hook through the next 2 sts, pick up the yarn and pull it through the 3 sts on the hook*, repeat *-* to end of row. Turn work. *Ch 3, 1 dc into the 1st ch st (= picot), 1 dc around the ch st on the previous row*. Repeat *-* to end of row. Work a picot to the last st. Break the yarn.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
body circumference 84(92)100(108)116 cm / 33(36¼)39¼(42½)45¾ in length 48(50)52(54)56 cm / 19(19¾)20½(21¼)22 in inner sleeve length 15(16)16(17)17 cm / 6(6¼)6¼(6¾)6¾ in

Stitch patterns & gauge
Crochet pattern:
- Follow the chart and the written instructions.

Stitch patterns:
- Ribbing:
*p1, k1*, repeat *-* to end of row.
On the wrong side rows

Back

Chain 127(139)151(163)175 (ch sts) for the beginning chain.

Row 1 (see chart): Work 1 double crochet (dc) into the 2nd ch st from the hook, work 1 dc into each ch st on the beginning chain.

Row 2: ch 4 (= 1st tr + 1 ch st), skip 1 dc, work 3 trebles (tr), ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 tr, *ch1, skip 1 dc, 3 tr, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 tr*, repeat *-* 19(21)23(25)27 more times. 21(23)25(27)29 pattern repeats in total.

Keep repeating rows 3-6 of the chart.

When the piece measures 28(29)30(31)32 cm, leave off 1(1)1½(1½)2 pattern repeats at both ends for the armholes (at the beginning of the row, use slip sts to get past the sts in question, and leave the sts unworked at end of the row). Decrease 1(1)1½(1½)2 more pattern repeats at both ends on the next 4(4)6(6)8 rows. 17(19)19(21)21 pattern repeats in total.

When the armhole measures 18(19)10(21)22 cm, leave off the middle 11 pattern repeats for the neckline. Work one shoulder at a time. 3(4)4(5)5 pattern repeats on the shoulder.

When the armhole measures 20(21)22(23)24 cm, break the yarn and crochet the other shoulder in the same manner.

Left front

Chain 55(61)67(73)79 for the beginning chain.

Row 1 (see chart I): Work 1 dc into the 2nd ch st from the hook, then work 1 dc into each st in the beginning chain.

Row 2: ch 4 (= 1st tr + 1 ch st), skip 1 dc, work 3 tr, 1 dc, skip 1 dc, work 1 tr, *ch 1, skip 1 dc, 3 tr, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 tr*, repeat *-* 7(8)9(10)11 more times. 9(10)11(12)13 pattern repeats in total.

Keep repeating rows 3-6 of the chart.

When the piece measures 25(26)27(28)29 cm, begin decreases for the neckline at the front edge (= left end). Decrease 1 pattern repeat on the next 4 rows, then ½ a pattern repeat per each 4 rows. Decrease a total of 4 pattern repeats at the front edge.

Note: When the piece measures 28(29)30(31)32 cm, leave off 1(1)1½(1½)2 pattern repeats at the right end for the armhole. Decrease 1(1)1½(1½)2 more pattern repeats at the right end on the next 4(4)6(6)8 rows.

When the armhole measures 20(21)22(23)24 cm, break the yarn.

Right front

Work as the mirror image of the left front.

Sleeves

Chain 85(85)91(91)97 for the beginning chain.

Row 1 (see chart I): Work 1 dc into the 2nd ch st from the hook, then work 1 dc into each st in the beginning chain.

Row 2: ch 4 (= 1st tr + 1 ch st), skip 1 dc, work 3 tr, 1 dc, skip 1 dc, work 1 tr, *ch 1, skip 1 dc, 3 tr, ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 tr*, repeat *-* 12(12)13(13)14 more times. 14(14)15(15)16 pattern repeats in total.

Keep repeating rows 3-6 of the chart.

When the piece measures approx. 8(6)6(5)5 cm, begin increases. Increase ½ a pattern repeat at both ends per each 4 rows a total of 2(3)3(4)4 times. 1(1½)1½(2)2 pattern repeats increased at both ends.

When the piece measures 15(16)16(17)17 cm, leave off 1½(1½)2(2)2 pattern repeats at both ends for the armholes (at the beginning of the row, use slip sts to get past the sts in question, and leave the sts unworked at end of the row). Then decrease 1 pattern repeat per each 4 rows until the top of the sleeve measures approx. 12(13)14(15)16 cm. Break the yarn.

Crochet the other sleeve to match.

Finishing

Pin the pieces to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.

Crochet the left shoulder seam on the WS using dc. Crochet the right shoulder seam using dc from the shoulder to the neckline. Don't break the yarn. On the RS, crochet 66 dc into the neckline on the back piece. Break the yarn.

Crochet or sew the side seams and sleeve seams. Attach the sleeves.

Border: Join the yarn with 1 dc into the bottom corner at the front edge of the right front piece (see chart II). Ch 2 (= 1st tr) and work trebles to the front edge following the chart. On the back neckline, work 1 tr into each dc. Work trebles to the left front edge as established.

Do not break the yarn. Using a circular needle, pick up and knit the last st and additional sts from the WS, 1 st per each tr. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2. Pick the sts up from their front loops on the WS. Work the picked-up sts in ribbing.

When the border measures approx. 5,5 cm and you have last worked a WS row, bind off in crochet: take the hook through 2 sts, pick up the yarn and pull it through the 3 sts on the hook, *ch 1 in between, take the hook through the next 2 sts, pick up the yarn and pull it through the 3 sts on the hook*, repeat *-* to end of row. Turn work. *Ch 3, 1 dc into the 1st ch st (= picot), 1 dc around the ch st on the previous row*. Repeat *-* to end of row. Work a picot to the last st. Break the yarn.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

Find size guides for your knitting projects

With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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