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Women's crocheted bolero Novita Cotton Soft

As low as €1.90

This bolero, crocheted from Novita Cotton Soft yarn, features a distinctive pattern. You can make the sleeves either long or short according to your preference.
Magazine Novita Kesä 2017 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 16
Skill level Expert

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Women's crocheted bolero Novita Cotton Soft
Women's crocheted bolero Novita Cotton Soft

In stock

€1.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N021716
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Cotton Soft
    (010) Off-white 300(350)400(450)500(550) g

    Needles and other supplies
    Crochet hook:
    Novita 3 mm or the size needed to obtain gauge

    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Details

    The back

    Chain 106(118)134(146)162(178) sts.

    1st row (see diagram I): Work the 1st long branching treble (lb tr) [= wrap the yarn twice around the hook, insert the hook into the 6th chain from the hook, wrap the yarn around the hook and pull it through (4 sts on the hook, the yarn overs included), pick up the yarn and pull it through 2 sts, pick up the yarn, skip 2 ch sts and put the hook through the next chain st, wrap the yarn around the hook and pull it through (5 sts on the hook, the yarn overs included), pull the yarn through 2 sts, pick up the yarn, pull it through 2 sts, pick up the yarn, pull it through 2 sts, pick up the yarn and pull it through the remaining 2 sts], *ch 2, 1 lb tr*. Repeat from * to * another 23(27)30(33)37(41) times, ch 1, 1 double treble (d tr) into the last ch st. 25(28)32(35)39(43) lb tr in total. Turn work.

    2nd row: Ch 5, 1 lb tr [= wrap the yarn twice around the hook, move hook under the ch st from the previous row to the other side of the work, wrap the yarn around the hook, bring the yarn to the right side of the work (4 sts on the hook, including the yarn overs), pick up the yarn and pull it through 2 sts, pick up the yarn, move hook to the other side of the work under the next chain sts, wrap the yarn around the hook, bring the yarn to the right side of the work (5 sts on the hook, including the yarn overs), pull the yarn through 2 sts, pick up the yarn, pull it through 2 sts, pick up the yarn, pull it through 2 sts, pick up the yarn and pull through the remaining 2 sts], *ch 2, 1 lb tr*. Repeat from * to *, ch 1, 1 d tr.

    Continue crocheting from row 3 of diagram I, and then keep repeating rows 2–3.

    Note: When you have worked 3(3)3(4)5(6) rows in total, begin the increases on the next row on both sides of the piece from row 1 of diagram II. On the next 5 rows you'll add 2 lb tr to both ends of the piece. 29(32)36(39)43(47) lb tr in total.

    When you have completed the increases and the piece measures approx. 15(15)16(17)19(20) cm, place a marker to both sides to mark the underarm.

    When the armhole measures 4(5)6(7)7(8) cm, begin the increases on the next row on both ends of the piece from row 1 of diagram III. 1 lb tr added to both ends over the next 2 rows. Add 4 lb trs in total to both sides. 37(40)44(47)51(55) lb tr in total.

    When you have completed the increases [the armhole measures approx. 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm], leave off at both ends 2x4(4)5(5)6(6) lb tr and 1x3(4)4(6)5(7) lb tr following diagram IV (note: 3 lb tr on each row have been omitted from the diagram). 15(16)16(15)17(17) lb tr on the neckline remain. Break the yarn.

    The right front

    Chain 67(71)79(83)91(99) (starting chain).

    1st row (see diagram V, right end): Work 1 d tr into the 6th ch from the hook, *ch 2, 1 lb tr*, repeat from * to * another 14(15)17(18)20(22) times and crochet 1 d tr into the last ch on the starting chain. 15(16)18(19)21(23) lb tr in total. Turn work.

    Repeat rows 2–3 from diagram I. 16(17)19(20)22(24) lb tr in total after row 2.

    When you have completed 3(3)3(4)5(6) rows, begin the increases on the next row at the left end following diagram II. Increase 2 lb tr to left end during 5 rows. 18(19)21(22)24(26) lb tr in the work.

    When you have finished the increases and the piece measures approx. 15(15)16(17)19(20) cm, place a piece of scrap yarn at the left end to mark the lower edge of the armhole.

    Work 1 row and on the next row begin the decreases for the neckline at the right end following diagram VI. Decrease 1 lb tr on every row for 11(11)11(10)11(11) in total.

    When the armhole measures approx. 4(5)6(7)7(8) cm, on the next row begin the increases at the left end following diagram III. You'll add 1 lb tr per 2 rows. Increase 4 lb tr in total.

    When you have completed the increases at the left end [armhole measures approx. 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm] and the decreases at the right end, there are 11(12)14(16)17(19) lb tr in the work (shoulder).

    Begin the shoulder decreases on the next row. Leave off on every row at the left end 2x4(4)5(5)6(6) lb tr and 1x3(4)4(6)5(7) lb tr following chart IV (note: 3 lb tr on every row have been omitted in the diagram). Break the yarn.

    The left front

    Crochet as the mirror image of the right front.

    Sew the shoulder seams and crochet the sleeves starting from the armholes, see direction of knitting from the pattern.

    Left sleeve

    Join the yarn with 1 dc into the right side of the work, into the lower edge of the left armhole marked earlier. Crochet 83(86)92(98)98(104) dc into the arches of the armhole. Turn work.

    Begin working the branching trebles from row 1 of diagram VII: ch 5, 1 lb tr, *ch 2, 1 lb tr*, repeat from * to * 25(26)28(30)30(32) more times and into the last dc ch 1, 1 d tr. Keep repeating rows 2–3 of diagram VII. 27(28)30(32)32(34) lb tr in total.

    Note: Decrease on both ends of the piece on 5x1 lb tr every 4th row (5x1 lb tr every 4th row) 3x1 lb tr every 3rd row and 3x1 lb tr every 4th row (3x1 lb tr every 3rd row and 3x1 lb tr every 4th row) 3x1 lb tr every 3rd row and 3x1 lb tr every 4th row (7x1 lb tr every 3rd row). Work the decreases following rows 2 and 3 of diagram VI.

    After the decreases, 17(18)18(20)20(20) lb tr in the work.

    When the sleeve measures 45(46)47(48)48(49) cm, break the yarn.

    Right sleeve

    Work as you did the left sleeve.

    Finishing

    Lay the piece to measurements wrong side up, mist with a spray bottle and allow to dry.

    Sew the side seams and the sleeve seams.

    Crocheted edging: Join the yarn with 1 dc onto the hem at one of the side seams, on the right side of the work

    1st row: on the hem, crochet 3 dc into each arch of chain sts, 5 dc into the arch on the lower corner of the front edge, 4 dc into each arch on the straight part of the front edge, 5 dc into the arches on the slanted part of the front edge and 3 dc into the arches on the back. Close the row with 1 slip stitch (sl st) into the 1st dc on the row.

    2nd row: crochet 1 dc into each dc on the previous row and, if necessary, make the neckline smaller by skipping some of the sts as you go along. Close the row with 1 sl st.

    3rd row: Ch 3 ( = 1st tr), *ch 1, skip 1 dc and make 1 tr into the next dc*, repeat from * to * throughout the row and end with ch 1. Close the row with 1 sl st.

    4th row: ch 4 and work 1 dc into the 3rd chain from the hook. *Skip 1 tr, work 1 dc into the next tr, work the picot (= ch 3, 1 dc into the 3rd chain from the hook)*, repeat from * to * and close the row with 1 sl st.

    Edgings for the cuffs: Join the yarn with 1 dc into the right side of the work, at the seam on the cuff.

    1st round: work 4 dc into each arch and close the round with 1 sl st into the 1st dc on the round.

    2nd and 3rd rounds: work 1 dc into each dc on the previous round, close the round with 1 sl st.

    4th round: ch 3 ( =1st tr), *ch 1, skip 1 dc and make 1 tr into the next dc*, repeat from * to * throughout the round, end with ch 1 and close the round with 1 sl st.

    5th row: ch 4 and work 1 dc into the 3rd chain from the hook. *Skip 1 tr, work 1 dc into the next tr, work the picot (= ch 3 and 1 dc into the 3rd chain from the hook)*, repeat from * to * and close the round with 1 sl st.

    Crochet the edging of the other sleeve to match.

    String: Chain 132. Work 1 dc into 3rd ch from the hook, *work the picot (= ch 3, work 1 dc into 3rd ch from the hook), skip 2 ch st, work 1 sl st into next ch st*, repeat from * to * to end of starting chain. Break the yarn.

    Slip the string through the edging on the right front, onto the lower edge of the slanted part of the neckline.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    hem circumference 68(76)84(92)102(112) cm circumference measured at underarms 78(86)94(102)112(122) cm length of the garment 41(42)44(46)48(50) cm inner sleeve length 47(48)49(50)50(51) cm

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Crochet pattern:
    crochet according to the diagram and the written instructions.

    Gauge:
    8 branching trebles = approx. 10 cm.
    6 rows of branching trebles = approx. 11 cm

    The back

    Chain 106(118)134(146)162(178) sts.

    1st row (see diagram I): Work the 1st long branching treble (lb tr) [= wrap the yarn twice around the hook, insert the hook into the 6th chain from the hook, wrap the yarn around the hook and pull it through (4 sts on the hook, the yarn overs included), pick up the yarn and pull it through 2 sts, pick up the yarn, skip 2 ch sts and put the hook through the next chain st, wrap the yarn around the hook and pull it through (5 sts on the hook, the yarn overs included), pull the yarn through 2 sts, pick up the yarn, pull it through 2 sts, pick up the yarn, pull it through 2 sts, pick up the yarn and pull it through the remaining 2 sts], *ch 2, 1 lb tr*. Repeat from * to * another 23(27)30(33)37(41) times, ch 1, 1 double treble (d tr) into the last ch st. 25(28)32(35)39(43) lb tr in total. Turn work.

    2nd row: Ch 5, 1 lb tr [= wrap the yarn twice around the hook, move hook under the ch st from the previous row to the other side of the work, wrap the yarn around the hook, bring the yarn to the right side of the work (4 sts on the hook, including the yarn overs), pick up the yarn and pull it through 2 sts, pick up the yarn, move hook to the other side of the work under the next chain sts, wrap the yarn around the hook, bring the yarn to the right side of the work (5 sts on the hook, including the yarn overs), pull the yarn through 2 sts, pick up the yarn, pull it through 2 sts, pick up the yarn, pull it through 2 sts, pick up the yarn and pull through the remaining 2 sts], *ch 2, 1 lb tr*. Repeat from * to *, ch 1, 1 d tr.

    Continue crocheting from row 3 of diagram I, and then keep repeating rows 2–3.

    Note: When you have worked 3(3)3(4)5(6) rows in total, begin the increases on the next row on both sides of the piece from row 1 of diagram II. On the next 5 rows you'll add 2 lb tr to both ends of the piece. 29(32)36(39)43(47) lb tr in total.

    When you have completed the increases and the piece measures approx. 15(15)16(17)19(20) cm, place a marker to both sides to mark the underarm.

    When the armhole measures 4(5)6(7)7(8) cm, begin the increases on the next row on both ends of the piece from row 1 of diagram III. 1 lb tr added to both ends over the next 2 rows. Add 4 lb trs in total to both sides. 37(40)44(47)51(55) lb tr in total.

    When you have completed the increases [the armhole measures approx. 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm], leave off at both ends 2x4(4)5(5)6(6) lb tr and 1x3(4)4(6)5(7) lb tr following diagram IV (note: 3 lb tr on each row have been omitted from the diagram). 15(16)16(15)17(17) lb tr on the neckline remain. Break the yarn.

    The right front

    Chain 67(71)79(83)91(99) (starting chain).

    1st row (see diagram V, right end): Work 1 d tr into the 6th ch from the hook, *ch 2, 1 lb tr*, repeat from * to * another 14(15)17(18)20(22) times and crochet 1 d tr into the last ch on the starting chain. 15(16)18(19)21(23) lb tr in total. Turn work.

    Repeat rows 2–3 from diagram I. 16(17)19(20)22(24) lb tr in total after row 2.

    When you have completed 3(3)3(4)5(6) rows, begin the increases on the next row at the left end following diagram II. Increase 2 lb tr to left end during 5 rows. 18(19)21(22)24(26) lb tr in the work.

    When you have finished the increases and the piece measures approx. 15(15)16(17)19(20) cm, place a piece of scrap yarn at the left end to mark the lower edge of the armhole.

    Work 1 row and on the next row begin the decreases for the neckline at the right end following diagram VI. Decrease 1 lb tr on every row for 11(11)11(10)11(11) in total.

    When the armhole measures approx. 4(5)6(7)7(8) cm, on the next row begin the increases at the left end following diagram III. You'll add 1 lb tr per 2 rows. Increase 4 lb tr in total.

    When you have completed the increases at the left end [armhole measures approx. 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm] and the decreases at the right end, there are 11(12)14(16)17(19) lb tr in the work (shoulder).

    Begin the shoulder decreases on the next row. Leave off on every row at the left end 2x4(4)5(5)6(6) lb tr and 1x3(4)4(6)5(7) lb tr following chart IV (note: 3 lb tr on every row have been omitted in the diagram). Break the yarn.

    The left front

    Crochet as the mirror image of the right front.

    Sew the shoulder seams and crochet the sleeves starting from the armholes, see direction of knitting from the pattern.

    Left sleeve

    Join the yarn with 1 dc into the right side of the work, into the lower edge of the left armhole marked earlier. Crochet 83(86)92(98)98(104) dc into the arches of the armhole. Turn work.

    Begin working the branching trebles from row 1 of diagram VII: ch 5, 1 lb tr, *ch 2, 1 lb tr*, repeat from * to * 25(26)28(30)30(32) more times and into the last dc ch 1, 1 d tr. Keep repeating rows 2–3 of diagram VII. 27(28)30(32)32(34) lb tr in total.

    Note: Decrease on both ends of the piece on 5x1 lb tr every 4th row (5x1 lb tr every 4th row) 3x1 lb tr every 3rd row and 3x1 lb tr every 4th row (3x1 lb tr every 3rd row and 3x1 lb tr every 4th row) 3x1 lb tr every 3rd row and 3x1 lb tr every 4th row (7x1 lb tr every 3rd row). Work the decreases following rows 2 and 3 of diagram VI.

    After the decreases, 17(18)18(20)20(20) lb tr in the work.

    When the sleeve measures 45(46)47(48)48(49) cm, break the yarn.

    Right sleeve

    Work as you did the left sleeve.

    Finishing

    Lay the piece to measurements wrong side up, mist with a spray bottle and allow to dry.

    Sew the side seams and the sleeve seams.

    Crocheted edging: Join the yarn with 1 dc onto the hem at one of the side seams, on the right side of the work

    1st row: on the hem, crochet 3 dc into each arch of chain sts, 5 dc into the arch on the lower corner of the front edge, 4 dc into each arch on the straight part of the front edge, 5 dc into the arches on the slanted part of the front edge and 3 dc into the arches on the back. Close the row with 1 slip stitch (sl st) into the 1st dc on the row.

    2nd row: crochet 1 dc into each dc on the previous row and, if necessary, make the neckline smaller by skipping some of the sts as you go along. Close the row with 1 sl st.

    3rd row: Ch 3 ( = 1st tr), *ch 1, skip 1 dc and make 1 tr into the next dc*, repeat from * to * throughout the row and end with ch 1. Close the row with 1 sl st.

    4th row: ch 4 and work 1 dc into the 3rd chain from the hook. *Skip 1 tr, work 1 dc into the next tr, work the picot (= ch 3, 1 dc into the 3rd chain from the hook)*, repeat from * to * and close the row with 1 sl st.

    Edgings for the cuffs: Join the yarn with 1 dc into the right side of the work, at the seam on the cuff.

    1st round: work 4 dc into each arch and close the round with 1 sl st into the 1st dc on the round.

    2nd and 3rd rounds: work 1 dc into each dc on the previous round, close the round with 1 sl st.

    4th round: ch 3 ( =1st tr), *ch 1, skip 1 dc and make 1 tr into the next dc*, repeat from * to * throughout the round, end with ch 1 and close the round with 1 sl st.

    5th row: ch 4 and work 1 dc into the 3rd chain from the hook. *Skip 1 tr, work 1 dc into the next tr, work the picot (= ch 3 and 1 dc into the 3rd chain from the hook)*, repeat from * to * and close the round with 1 sl st.

    Crochet the edging of the other sleeve to match.

    String: Chain 132. Work 1 dc into 3rd ch from the hook, *work the picot (= ch 3, work 1 dc into 3rd ch from the hook), skip 2 ch st, work 1 sl st into next ch st*, repeat from * to * to end of starting chain. Break the yarn.

    Slip the string through the edging on the right front, onto the lower edge of the slanted part of the neckline.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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