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Women's Colourwork Sweater Novita Nalle

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The classic Northern lights design is rejuvenated in this sweater, featuring graphic motifs and the bold colours of Novita Nalle.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2016 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 10
Skill level Intermediate
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Availability:In stock
SKU N041610
Pattern details
Size
XS/S(M)L(XL)XXL

Yarn demand
Novita Nalle
A white 250(300)300(350)350 g,
B soot 150(150)200(200)250 g ja
C Christmas 50(50)50(50)50 g

Needles and other supplies
Needles
1 x Circular needle Novita 3.5 (80 cm)
1 x Circular needle Novita 3.5 (40 cm)
Set of 5 double pointed needles Novita 3.5
Or the size to give you the correct tension.

Designer
Saara Toikka

Details

Body

Front and back are worked simultaneously in the round from bottom to underarm.

Using longer circular needle and yarn B cast on 198(216)234(258)282 sts. Join to work in the round and work 5 cm in rib stitch. After that, k 1 round.

Start following the colourwork chart at row 1 and work the 6 st repeat for 33(36)39(43)47 times. Then, work rows 2-8. Next, continue with yarn A and work in st st.

When the piece measures 38(39)40(42)43 cm, start following the chart at row 9 and work the 6 st repeat for 33(36)39(43)47 times. Then, work rows 10-16.

Next, place a stitch marker (M) at each side of the garment, one (M1) at mark the beginning of the round and the other (M2) to mark the other side in the middle of the round. You have now 99(108)117(129)141 sts for both front and back.

Next round: Work in pattern until 4(4)5(5)6 sts remain before M2, cast off 8(8)10(10)12 sts for underarm, work in pattern until 4(4)5(5)6 sts remain before M1, cast off 8(8)10(10)12 sts for another underarm. You have now 91(100)107(119)129 sts for both front and back. Leave the front sts on hold for a while and work the lower portion of the back yoke first.

Lower portion of the back yoke

Work with the 91(100)107(119)129 sts of the back. With yarn B work back and forth in st st. At the same time shape the armholes in the following way: Cast off 3 sts at the beginning of next 0(0)0(2)2 rows, 2 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows and 1 st at the beginning of next 2(4)4(4)4 rows = 85(92)99(105)115 sts.

Next, p 1 row and leave the sts on hold for a while.

Lower portion of the front yoke

Work to match the lower portion of the back yoke.

Sleeves

Using dpns and yarn B cast on 48(48)54(54)54 sts and divide the sts onto 4 needles. Join to work in the round, place a M to indicate the beginning of the round and work 5 cm in rib stitch. Next, knit 1 round.

Start following the chart at row 1 and work the 6 st repeat for 8(8)8(9)9 times. Then, work rows 2-8.

Next, continue working in st st with yarn A and increase 1 st on the first round = 49(49)55(55)55 sts.

When the piece measures 14(10)13(14)11 cm, increase 1 st at each side of the M. Repeat these increases every 2.5(2.5)2.5(2)2 cm for 12(14)13(16)18 times more = 75(79)83(89)93 sts.

Note When the piece measures 43(44)45(45)46 cm, start following the chart at row 9. The centre line of the sleeve is indicated by an arrow in the bottom of the chart. Use it as a guideline to count the point where you should start following the chart. Then, work rows 10-16.

Start working back and forth in st st with yarn B and cast off 4(4)5(5)6 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows, 3 sts at the beginning of next 0(0)0(2)2 rows, 2 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows and 1 st at the beginning of next 2(4)4(4)4 rows = 61(63)65(65)67 sts. Next, purl 1 row and at the same time decrease 1 st. Leave 60(62)64(64)66 on hold for a while.

Work another sleeve to match.

Yoke

Next, take all sts onto one circular needle: with yarn B work 85(92)99(105)115 sts of the front + 60(62)64(64)66 sts of the right sleeve + 85(92)99(105)115 sts of the back + 60(62)64(64)66 sts of the left sleeve = 290(308)326(338)362 sts.

Continue with yarn B and work in st st in the round.

When you have worked 3,5(3,5)4,5(4,5)5,5 cm with yarn B after row 16 of the chart, decrease 14(20)26(26)32 sts evenly = 276(288)300(312)330 sts.

When you have worked 4,5(4,5)5,5(5,5)6,5 cm with yarn B after row 16 of the chart, start following the chart at row 17 and work the 6 st repeat for 46(48)50(52)55 times. Then, work rows 18-33.

Continue with yarn B and work in st st. On the first round decrease 24(27)27(27)30 sts evenly = 252(261)273(285)300 sts.

Next, work 4(6)6(6)6 rounds straight with yarn B. On the next round decrease 24(27)27(27)30 sts evenly = 228(234)246(258)270 sts.

Continue straight and when you have worked 4(5)5(5)5 cm with yarn B, decrease 30(30)36(36)36 sts evenly =198(204)210(222)234 sts.

Start following the chart at row 34 and work the 6 st repeat for 33(34)35(37)39 times. Then, work rows 35-48. You will be decreasing 33(34)35(37)39 sts on rows 37, 43, and 47 and after completing the decreases you will have 99(102)105(111)117 sts on the needle.

Work 3 rounds in st st with yarn B and on the last row decrease 3(4)7(9)13 sts evenly = 96(98)98(102)104 sts.

Next, work 8 cm in rib stitch. Cast off in pattern.

Finishing

Join underarm seams. Lay the finished piece to measurements on a flat surface and steam block gently.

Fold the neck ribbing in half and sew in place on the WS of the garment.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
Body circumference 86(94)102(112)122 cm Length of the garment at centre back 60(62)64(66)68 cm Underarm sleeve 46(47)48(48)49 cm

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns
Rib stitch in the round
All rounds: *K1, p1*

Body

Front and back are worked simultaneously in the round from bottom to underarm.

Using longer circular needle and yarn B cast on 198(216)234(258)282 sts. Join to work in the round and work 5 cm in rib stitch. After that, k 1 round.

Start following the colourwork chart at row 1 and work the 6 st repeat for 33(36)39(43)47 times. Then, work rows 2-8. Next, continue with yarn A and work in st st.

When the piece measures 38(39)40(42)43 cm, start following the chart at row 9 and work the 6 st repeat for 33(36)39(43)47 times. Then, work rows 10-16.

Next, place a stitch marker (M) at each side of the garment, one (M1) at mark the beginning of the round and the other (M2) to mark the other side in the middle of the round. You have now 99(108)117(129)141 sts for both front and back.

Next round: Work in pattern until 4(4)5(5)6 sts remain before M2, cast off 8(8)10(10)12 sts for underarm, work in pattern until 4(4)5(5)6 sts remain before M1, cast off 8(8)10(10)12 sts for another underarm. You have now 91(100)107(119)129 sts for both front and back. Leave the front sts on hold for a while and work the lower portion of the back yoke first.

Lower portion of the back yoke

Work with the 91(100)107(119)129 sts of the back. With yarn B work back and forth in st st. At the same time shape the armholes in the following way: Cast off 3 sts at the beginning of next 0(0)0(2)2 rows, 2 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows and 1 st at the beginning of next 2(4)4(4)4 rows = 85(92)99(105)115 sts.

Next, p 1 row and leave the sts on hold for a while.

Lower portion of the front yoke

Work to match the lower portion of the back yoke.

Sleeves

Using dpns and yarn B cast on 48(48)54(54)54 sts and divide the sts onto 4 needles. Join to work in the round, place a M to indicate the beginning of the round and work 5 cm in rib stitch. Next, knit 1 round.

Start following the chart at row 1 and work the 6 st repeat for 8(8)8(9)9 times. Then, work rows 2-8.

Next, continue working in st st with yarn A and increase 1 st on the first round = 49(49)55(55)55 sts.

When the piece measures 14(10)13(14)11 cm, increase 1 st at each side of the M. Repeat these increases every 2.5(2.5)2.5(2)2 cm for 12(14)13(16)18 times more = 75(79)83(89)93 sts.

Note When the piece measures 43(44)45(45)46 cm, start following the chart at row 9. The centre line of the sleeve is indicated by an arrow in the bottom of the chart. Use it as a guideline to count the point where you should start following the chart. Then, work rows 10-16.

Start working back and forth in st st with yarn B and cast off 4(4)5(5)6 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows, 3 sts at the beginning of next 0(0)0(2)2 rows, 2 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows and 1 st at the beginning of next 2(4)4(4)4 rows = 61(63)65(65)67 sts. Next, purl 1 row and at the same time decrease 1 st. Leave 60(62)64(64)66 on hold for a while.

Work another sleeve to match.

Yoke

Next, take all sts onto one circular needle: with yarn B work 85(92)99(105)115 sts of the front + 60(62)64(64)66 sts of the right sleeve + 85(92)99(105)115 sts of the back + 60(62)64(64)66 sts of the left sleeve = 290(308)326(338)362 sts.

Continue with yarn B and work in st st in the round.

When you have worked 3,5(3,5)4,5(4,5)5,5 cm with yarn B after row 16 of the chart, decrease 14(20)26(26)32 sts evenly = 276(288)300(312)330 sts.

When you have worked 4,5(4,5)5,5(5,5)6,5 cm with yarn B after row 16 of the chart, start following the chart at row 17 and work the 6 st repeat for 46(48)50(52)55 times. Then, work rows 18-33.

Continue with yarn B and work in st st. On the first round decrease 24(27)27(27)30 sts evenly = 252(261)273(285)300 sts.

Next, work 4(6)6(6)6 rounds straight with yarn B. On the next round decrease 24(27)27(27)30 sts evenly = 228(234)246(258)270 sts.

Continue straight and when you have worked 4(5)5(5)5 cm with yarn B, decrease 30(30)36(36)36 sts evenly =198(204)210(222)234 sts.

Start following the chart at row 34 and work the 6 st repeat for 33(34)35(37)39 times. Then, work rows 35-48. You will be decreasing 33(34)35(37)39 sts on rows 37, 43, and 47 and after completing the decreases you will have 99(102)105(111)117 sts on the needle.

Work 3 rounds in st st with yarn B and on the last row decrease 3(4)7(9)13 sts evenly = 96(98)98(102)104 sts.

Next, work 8 cm in rib stitch. Cast off in pattern.

Finishing

Join underarm seams. Lay the finished piece to measurements on a flat surface and steam block gently.

Fold the neck ribbing in half and sew in place on the WS of the garment.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

Find size guides for your knitting projects

With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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