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Women's Colourwork Cardigan Novita Nalle and Nalle Taika

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This cardigan has an autumnal look with its rich texture and colourwork floats showing on the right side of the work.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2016 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 9
Skill level Intermediate
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N03169
Pattern details
Size
S(M)L(XL)XXL

Yarn demand
Novita Nalle
A - flax 550 (550) 600 (600) 700 g
B - fox 50 (50) 100 (100) 100 g
C - conifer 100 (100) 100 (100) 100 g
and
Novita Nalle Taika
D - light green-dark green 50 (100) 100 (100) 100 g

Needles and other supplies
Needles:
1 pair of 3.5 mm Novita knitting needles
1 pair of 4.0 mm Novita knitting needles
2 x 4.0 mm (80 cm) Novita circular needle for the collar
Or the sizes required to give the correct tension.

Notions:
7 buttons

Designer
Saara Toikka

Details

Back

Using larger needles and two strands of yarn A, cast on 98 (106) 114 (122) 130 sts. Start working in rib by working first k2 (this will be the WS of the work). Work 6 cm in rib ending with a WS row.

Cut one strand of yarn. Change to smaller needles and continue work with only the remaining strand. P one row with the RS facing and at the same time increase evenly 24 (24) 26 (26) 28 sts = 122 (130) 140 (148) 158 sts.

Work 1 (2) 3 (4) 5 cm in st st.

*Start following colourwork chart from row 1 and repeat the 2 st pattern to end. Work rows 2-4 of the chart. Change to yarn A and work 8 rows in st st. Continue following the chart from row 5 and repeat the 4 st pattern to end (note that the pattern repeat and the total stitch count won't line up in all sizes). Work rows 6-16 of the chart. Change to yarn A and work 8 rows in st st.

At the same time: When the work measures 18 (18) 19 (19) 20 cm, decrease 1 st at each end of the next row. Repeat these decreases every 4 cm for 6 times more = 108 (116) 126 (134) 144 sts.

Work rows 1-4 of the chart. Change to yarn A and work 8 rows in st st. Work rows 17-28 of the chart*. Change to yarn A and work 8 rows in st st. Repeat *-* once.

At the same time: When you have repeated 4 times rows 1-4 of the chart and finished 8 rows in st st with yarn A (the work measures about 45 (46) 47 (48) 49 cm), shape armholes by casting off in the following way: cast off 6 (6) 7 (7) 8 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows, 3 sts at the beginning of next 0 (0) 2 (2) 2 rows, 2 sts at the beginning of next 2 (4) 4 (6) 6 rows and 1 st at the beginning of next 6 (6) 4 (4) 6 rows. You have now 86 (90) 94 (98) 104 sts on the needle.

When you have finished row 28 of the chart for the second time, continue by working rows 29-56. Change to yarn A and work 8 rows in st st. Work rows 1-4 of the chart. Change to yarn A and work the rest of the piece in st st.

At the same time: When the armholes measure 18 (19) 20 (20) 21 cm, cast off centre 30 sts firmly for back neck, and keeping the pattern correct, work each side of the neck separately.

Next row (WS): work to end.

Next row (RS, neck edge): cast off 2 sts and work to end.

Next row: work to end.

Next row: cast off 1 st and work to end.

Keeping the pattern correct, continue working straight until the armhole measures 20 (21) 22 (22) 23 cm. Cast off 25 (27) 29 (31) 34 sts for shoulder.

Work the other side to match, reversing the shapings.

Left front

Using larger needles and two strands of yarn A, cast on 45 (49) 53 (57) 61 sts. Start working in rib in the following way:

Row 1 (WS): P3, k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *-* to end.

Work 6 cm in rib.

Cut one strand of yarn. Change to smaller needles and continue work with only the remaining strand. P one row with the RS facing and at the same time increase evenly 13 (13) 15 (15) 15 sts = 58 (62) 68 (72) 76 sts.

Work 1 (2) 3 (4) 5 cm in st st.

*Start working in colourwork pattern from row 1 of the chart and repeat the 2 st pattern to end. Work rows 2-4 of the chart. Change to yarn A and work 8 rows in st st. Continue following the chart from row 5 and repeat the 4 st pattern to end (note that the pattern repeat and the total number of stitches won't line up in all sizes). Work rows 6-16 of the chart. Change to yarn A and work 8 rows in st st.

At the same time: When the work measures 18 (18) 19 (19) 20 cm, decrease 1 st at the beginning of next RS row. Repeat this decrease every 4 cm for 6 times more = 51 (55) 61 (65) 69 sts.

Work rows 1-4 of the chart. Change to yarn A and work 8 rows in st st. Work rows 17-28 of the chart.* Change to yarn A and work 8 rows in st st. Repeat *-* once.

At the same time: When the work measures 43 (44) 45 (46) 47 cm, decrease 1 st for front slope at the beginning of the next WS row. Repeat this decrease every 1 cm for 14 (14) 15 (15) 14 times more.

Work armhole shaping as for back at the beginning of corresponding RS rows.

When you have finished row 28 of the chart for the second time, continue working rows 29-56. Change to yarn A and work 8 rows in st st. Work rows 1-4 of the chart. Change to yarn A and work the rest of the piece in st st.

When the armhole measures 20 (21) 22 (22) 23 cm, cast off 25 (27) 29 (31) 34 sts for shoulder.

Right front

Work to match the left front, reversing the shapings.

Sleeves

(make 2)

Using larger needles and two strands of yarn A, cast on 44 (44) 46 (48) 50 sts. Work 6 cm in rib.

Cut one strand of yarn. Change to smaller needles and continue work with only the remaining strand. P one row with the RS facing and at the same time increase evenly 8 (10) 10 (10) 10 sts = 52 (54) 56 (58) 60 sts.

Work 1 (2) 3 (4) 5 cm in st st. Start working in colourwork pattern as for back.

At the same time: When the work measures 12 (11) 15 (14) 13 cm, increase 1 st at each end of the next row. Repeat these increases every 2.5 (2.5) 2 (2) 2 cm for 12 (13) 15 (16) 17 times more = 78 (82) 88 (92) 96 sts.

Note! When you have worked rows 1-4 of the chart four times and have just finished 8 rows in st st with yarn A (the work measures about 45 (46) 47 (48) 49 cm), shape the sleeve top by casting off in the following way: cast off 6 (6) 7 (7) 8 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows, 3 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows, 2 sts at the beginning of next 4 rows, 1 st at the beginning of next 26 (28) 30 (32) 34 rows, 2 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows and 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Cast of all sts.

Finishing

Lay pieces to measurements on a flat surface with the WS facing, wet with a spray bottle and let dry. Join shoulder seams.

Shawl collar and front edges: With the RS facing, using a circular needle and two strands of yarn A, pick up and knit 66 (70) 74 (74) 78 sts starting from right/left front edge 9 (10) 11 (11) 12 cm down the shoulder, continue up to and along back neck and then 9 (10) 11 (11) 12 cm down the other front edge. Mark the 2 centre sts with stitch markers or waste yarn and work all picked up sts in rib so that the 2 centre sts are worked as p2 (this side will show on the right side of the finished collar). Do not turn work but continue by picking up and working 2 new sts from the front edge (from the RS of the work and with the aid of a crochet hook, if needed) = 68 (72) 76 (76) 80 sts. Turn work, work in rib to end and pick up 2 more sts from the other front edge = 70 (74) 78 (78) 82 sts. Continue working back and forth in rib and picking up 2 new sts at the end of each row for 15 times more along both front slopes and then 92 (94) 96 (100) 102 sts along both front opening edges = 314 (322) 330 (338) 346 sts. Take another circular needle to work when needed.

Work 3 rows in rib.

Next row: Work 7 buttonholes onto the left front edge so that the top one will be at the start of the front slope, the bottom one 2 cm from the hem edge and the rest spaced evenly between these two. Buttonhole: yo, k/p2tog.

When the front band measures 3.5 cm and you have just finished a WS row, start shaping the shawl collar with short rows:

Next row (RS): Work 220 (224) 232 (236) 240 sts in rib (the last 2 sts should be p2; this side will be the on the wrong side of the finished collar). Turn work.

Next row (WS): Yo, work 126 (126) 134 (134) 134 sts in rib. Turn work.

Next row (RS): Yo, work 122 (122) 130 (130) 130 sts in rib. Turn work.

Next row (WS): Yo, work 118 (118) 126 (126) 126 sts in rib. Turn work.

Continue working short rows by always turning the work 4 sts before last turning point for 14 more times. You have now 62 (62) 70 (70) 70 sts between the first and last turning point and 126 (130) 130 (134) 138 sts on each side.

Do not turn work but work to end of row in rib stitch and at the same time close up the gaps between turning points and adjacent stitches (= sl yo knitwise, k1, pass the yo over the knit stitch).

Next row (WS): Cast off all stitches and at the same time always work yo together with the next st in the following way: p2tog.

Join sleeve and side seams. Sew sleeves in place.

Sew on buttons to match the buttonholes.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
Body circumference 92(100)108(116)124 cm Length of the garment 65(67)69(70)72 cm Underarm sleeve 45(46)47(48)49 cm

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:
- Rib stitch:
Row 1: *K2, p2*, repeat *-*.
Row 2: *K2, p2

Back

Using larger needles and two strands of yarn A, cast on 98 (106) 114 (122) 130 sts. Start working in rib by working first k2 (this will be the WS of the work). Work 6 cm in rib ending with a WS row.

Cut one strand of yarn. Change to smaller needles and continue work with only the remaining strand. P one row with the RS facing and at the same time increase evenly 24 (24) 26 (26) 28 sts = 122 (130) 140 (148) 158 sts.

Work 1 (2) 3 (4) 5 cm in st st.

*Start following colourwork chart from row 1 and repeat the 2 st pattern to end. Work rows 2-4 of the chart. Change to yarn A and work 8 rows in st st. Continue following the chart from row 5 and repeat the 4 st pattern to end (note that the pattern repeat and the total stitch count won't line up in all sizes). Work rows 6-16 of the chart. Change to yarn A and work 8 rows in st st.

At the same time: When the work measures 18 (18) 19 (19) 20 cm, decrease 1 st at each end of the next row. Repeat these decreases every 4 cm for 6 times more = 108 (116) 126 (134) 144 sts.

Work rows 1-4 of the chart. Change to yarn A and work 8 rows in st st. Work rows 17-28 of the chart*. Change to yarn A and work 8 rows in st st. Repeat *-* once.

At the same time: When you have repeated 4 times rows 1-4 of the chart and finished 8 rows in st st with yarn A (the work measures about 45 (46) 47 (48) 49 cm), shape armholes by casting off in the following way: cast off 6 (6) 7 (7) 8 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows, 3 sts at the beginning of next 0 (0) 2 (2) 2 rows, 2 sts at the beginning of next 2 (4) 4 (6) 6 rows and 1 st at the beginning of next 6 (6) 4 (4) 6 rows. You have now 86 (90) 94 (98) 104 sts on the needle.

When you have finished row 28 of the chart for the second time, continue by working rows 29-56. Change to yarn A and work 8 rows in st st. Work rows 1-4 of the chart. Change to yarn A and work the rest of the piece in st st.

At the same time: When the armholes measure 18 (19) 20 (20) 21 cm, cast off centre 30 sts firmly for back neck, and keeping the pattern correct, work each side of the neck separately.

Next row (WS): work to end.

Next row (RS, neck edge): cast off 2 sts and work to end.

Next row: work to end.

Next row: cast off 1 st and work to end.

Keeping the pattern correct, continue working straight until the armhole measures 20 (21) 22 (22) 23 cm. Cast off 25 (27) 29 (31) 34 sts for shoulder.

Work the other side to match, reversing the shapings.

Left front

Using larger needles and two strands of yarn A, cast on 45 (49) 53 (57) 61 sts. Start working in rib in the following way:

Row 1 (WS): P3, k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *-* to end.

Work 6 cm in rib.

Cut one strand of yarn. Change to smaller needles and continue work with only the remaining strand. P one row with the RS facing and at the same time increase evenly 13 (13) 15 (15) 15 sts = 58 (62) 68 (72) 76 sts.

Work 1 (2) 3 (4) 5 cm in st st.

*Start working in colourwork pattern from row 1 of the chart and repeat the 2 st pattern to end. Work rows 2-4 of the chart. Change to yarn A and work 8 rows in st st. Continue following the chart from row 5 and repeat the 4 st pattern to end (note that the pattern repeat and the total number of stitches won't line up in all sizes). Work rows 6-16 of the chart. Change to yarn A and work 8 rows in st st.

At the same time: When the work measures 18 (18) 19 (19) 20 cm, decrease 1 st at the beginning of next RS row. Repeat this decrease every 4 cm for 6 times more = 51 (55) 61 (65) 69 sts.

Work rows 1-4 of the chart. Change to yarn A and work 8 rows in st st. Work rows 17-28 of the chart.* Change to yarn A and work 8 rows in st st. Repeat *-* once.

At the same time: When the work measures 43 (44) 45 (46) 47 cm, decrease 1 st for front slope at the beginning of the next WS row. Repeat this decrease every 1 cm for 14 (14) 15 (15) 14 times more.

Work armhole shaping as for back at the beginning of corresponding RS rows.

When you have finished row 28 of the chart for the second time, continue working rows 29-56. Change to yarn A and work 8 rows in st st. Work rows 1-4 of the chart. Change to yarn A and work the rest of the piece in st st.

When the armhole measures 20 (21) 22 (22) 23 cm, cast off 25 (27) 29 (31) 34 sts for shoulder.

Right front

Work to match the left front, reversing the shapings.

Sleeves

(make 2)

Using larger needles and two strands of yarn A, cast on 44 (44) 46 (48) 50 sts. Work 6 cm in rib.

Cut one strand of yarn. Change to smaller needles and continue work with only the remaining strand. P one row with the RS facing and at the same time increase evenly 8 (10) 10 (10) 10 sts = 52 (54) 56 (58) 60 sts.

Work 1 (2) 3 (4) 5 cm in st st. Start working in colourwork pattern as for back.

At the same time: When the work measures 12 (11) 15 (14) 13 cm, increase 1 st at each end of the next row. Repeat these increases every 2.5 (2.5) 2 (2) 2 cm for 12 (13) 15 (16) 17 times more = 78 (82) 88 (92) 96 sts.

Note! When you have worked rows 1-4 of the chart four times and have just finished 8 rows in st st with yarn A (the work measures about 45 (46) 47 (48) 49 cm), shape the sleeve top by casting off in the following way: cast off 6 (6) 7 (7) 8 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows, 3 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows, 2 sts at the beginning of next 4 rows, 1 st at the beginning of next 26 (28) 30 (32) 34 rows, 2 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows and 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Cast of all sts.

Finishing

Lay pieces to measurements on a flat surface with the WS facing, wet with a spray bottle and let dry. Join shoulder seams.

Shawl collar and front edges: With the RS facing, using a circular needle and two strands of yarn A, pick up and knit 66 (70) 74 (74) 78 sts starting from right/left front edge 9 (10) 11 (11) 12 cm down the shoulder, continue up to and along back neck and then 9 (10) 11 (11) 12 cm down the other front edge. Mark the 2 centre sts with stitch markers or waste yarn and work all picked up sts in rib so that the 2 centre sts are worked as p2 (this side will show on the right side of the finished collar). Do not turn work but continue by picking up and working 2 new sts from the front edge (from the RS of the work and with the aid of a crochet hook, if needed) = 68 (72) 76 (76) 80 sts. Turn work, work in rib to end and pick up 2 more sts from the other front edge = 70 (74) 78 (78) 82 sts. Continue working back and forth in rib and picking up 2 new sts at the end of each row for 15 times more along both front slopes and then 92 (94) 96 (100) 102 sts along both front opening edges = 314 (322) 330 (338) 346 sts. Take another circular needle to work when needed.

Work 3 rows in rib.

Next row: Work 7 buttonholes onto the left front edge so that the top one will be at the start of the front slope, the bottom one 2 cm from the hem edge and the rest spaced evenly between these two. Buttonhole: yo, k/p2tog.

When the front band measures 3.5 cm and you have just finished a WS row, start shaping the shawl collar with short rows:

Next row (RS): Work 220 (224) 232 (236) 240 sts in rib (the last 2 sts should be p2; this side will be the on the wrong side of the finished collar). Turn work.

Next row (WS): Yo, work 126 (126) 134 (134) 134 sts in rib. Turn work.

Next row (RS): Yo, work 122 (122) 130 (130) 130 sts in rib. Turn work.

Next row (WS): Yo, work 118 (118) 126 (126) 126 sts in rib. Turn work.

Continue working short rows by always turning the work 4 sts before last turning point for 14 more times. You have now 62 (62) 70 (70) 70 sts between the first and last turning point and 126 (130) 130 (134) 138 sts on each side.

Do not turn work but work to end of row in rib stitch and at the same time close up the gaps between turning points and adjacent stitches (= sl yo knitwise, k1, pass the yo over the knit stitch).

Next row (WS): Cast off all stitches and at the same time always work yo together with the next st in the following way: p2tog.

Join sleeve and side seams. Sew sleeves in place.

Sew on buttons to match the buttonholes.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

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With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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