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Women's cardigan Novita Venla

Women's cardigan Novita Venla

As low as €1.90

The thin Novita Venla yarn is ideal for light garments. The crocheted edgings on the front and the sleeves of this cardigan beautifully complement the stockinette stitch.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2016 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 7
Skill level Intermediate
Women's cardigan Novita Venla
€6.90
€6.90
€6.90
€6.90
€6.90
Novita knitting needles 35 cm-3.5 mm
€3.00
Novita crochet hook 15 cm -2.0 mm
€2.10
Novita crochet hook 15 cm -2.5 mm
€2.10
Novita Finishing Needle 2 pcs
€1.90

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Women's cardigan Novita Venla
Women's cardigan Novita Venla

In stock

€1.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N04167
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS/S(M)L(XL)XXL

    Yarn demand
    Novita Venla
    (545) Rose hip 200(250)300(350)400 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Needles:
    Novita 3½ mm or the size needed to obtain gauge.
    Crochet hook:
    Novita 2 mm and 2½ for the crocheted border.

    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Details

    The back

    Cast on 96(106)116(128)140 sts and work in garter stitch for 5 rows. Then switch to stockinette stitch.

    When the piece measures 5(5)6(6)7 cm, increase 1 st to both ends of the piece, inside the outermost stitches. Repeat the increases every 5 cm for 2 more times = 102(112)122(134)146 sts.

    When the piece measures 22(23)24(25)26 cm, on every 2nd row bind off for the underarm at both ends 1x5(5)6(6)7 sts, 0(0)0(1)1x3 sts, 1(2)3(3)3x2 sts and 3(3)2(2)3x1 st = 82(88)94(100)108 sts.

    When the armhole measures 17(18)19(19)20 cm, bind off the middle 32 sts for the neckline and switch to working one side of the neckline at a time. Bind off 2x2 sts on every 2nd row at neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(21)22 cm, bind off the remaining 21(24)27(30)34 sts on the shoulder.

    Knit the other side of the neckline to match.

    The right front

    Cast on 22(26)31(37)43 sts and work 5 rows in garter st.

    Switch to stockinette st and begin the increases at the front edge (right edge): on the RS row k1, make a right-leaning increase (m1r) (= insert the left-hand needle from back to front under the strand of yarn between the sts and knit it through the front loop) and knit to end of row. Repeat the increase every 4th row for another 9(9)10(10)11 times.

    Note: When the piece measures 5(5)6(6)7 cm, increase 1 st inside the outermost st at the left end. Repeat the increase every 5 cm for 2 more times.

    When the piece measures 17(17)18(18)19 cm, decrease 1 st at front edge: k1, skp (=slip 1, knit 1, and pass the slipped st over). Repeat the decrease every 4 rows for 16(16)17(17)18 more times.

    When the piece measures 22(23)24(25)26 cm, on every 2nd row bind off for the underarm at left end 1x5(5)6(6)7 sts, 0(0)0(1)1x3 sts, 1(2)3(3)3x2 sts and 3(3)2(2)3x1 st.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(21)22 cm, bind off the remaining 8(10)13(16)20 sts on the shoulder.

    The left front

    Knit as the mirror image of the right front piece. Work left-leaning increases on the front edge (= insert the left-hand needle from front to back under the strand of yarn between the sts and knit it through the back loop).

    The decreases at front edge are worked as k2tog.

    Sleeves

    Cast on 64(66)68(70)72 sts and work in stockinette stitch.

    When the piece measures 5(3)4(2)5 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 2,5(2,5)2(2)1,5 cm for 6(7)9(10)12 more times = 78(82)88(92)98 sts.

    When the piece measures 22(23)24(25)26 cm, on every 2nd row bind off at both ends 1x5(5)6(7)8 sts, 1x3 sts, 2(2)3(3)3x2 sts, 13(15)15(16)18x1 st, 2x2 sts and 1x3 sts.

    Knit the other sleeve to match.

    Finishing

    Lay the pieces to measurements wrong side up, mist with a spray bottle, and allow to dry.

    Crochet edging on the fronts: Join the yarn with 1 double crochet (dc) into the upper corner on the front edge of the left front, onto the right side of the work. Using the 2 mm crochet hook, work 1 row of double crochet. Work 1 dc per each row on the front edge, making sure that the stitch count is divisible by 5 + 2 sts.

    Change to the larger crochet hook and continue crocheting from row 1 of diagram I: (wrong side of the work) chain 3 ( = 1st treble), work 3 trebles into the next dc, ch 1, *skip 4 dc, work 4 trs into the next dc, ch 1*, repeat from * to * and work 1 more tr into the last dc. Now repeat rows 2–3 of the diagram twice and work row 2 once again. Break the yarn and sew the seam on the left shoulder.

    Join the yarn with 1 dc into the bottom corner on the front edge of the right front, onto the right side of the work. Using the 2 mm hook, work 1 row of double crochet as you did on the left front.

    Change to the 2½ mm hook and continue crocheting from row 1 of diagram II: (wrong side of the work) ch 4 (= 1st treble + 1 ch st), *skip 4 dc, work 4 trs into the next dc, ch1*, repeat from * to *, work 3 trs into the second-to-last dc on the row and 1 tr into the last dc. Now repeat rows 2-3 of diagram II for a total of 2 times and then work row 2 once more. Do not break the yarn. Sew the seam on the right shoulder and continue crocheting into the neckline on the back piece. Using the 2 mm hook work 1 dc into each st (stitch count divisible by 5 + 1 st). Break the yarn.

    Join the yarn with 1 dc into the lower corner on the front edge of the left front, to the wrong side of the work. Continue crocheting with the 2½ mm hook from row 1 of diagram III: chain 3, *work 4 trs in between the treble groups, ch 1* repeat from * to * throughout the front edge and on the back neckline work 4 trs into the first dc, **ch 1, skip 4 dc and work 4 trs into the next dc**, repeat from ** to ** throughout the back neckline. Continue crocheting into the front edge of the right front: ch 1, *work 4 trs in between the treble groups, ch1*, repeat from * to * and finally work 4 trs. Crochet row 2 per diagram III. Turn work and work the picot row: work 1 dc into the tr, *ch1, crochet the picot stitch (= ch 3 and work 1 dc into the 3rd ch st from the hook), ch 1, 1 dc in between the treble groups* and repeat from * to *. Break the yarn.

    Sew the sleeve seams.

    Crochet edging on the sleeves: Starting from the seam, join the yarn with 1 dc into the right side of the work and using the 2 mm hook work 1 round of dc. Always crochet 1 dc into each stitch, making sure the stitch count is divisible by 5. Change to the larger crochet hook and continue working from row 1 of diagram IV: ch 4, *skip 4 dc and work 4 trs into the next dc, ch 1* repeat from * to * and at the end work 3 trs and close the round with 1 slip st into the 3rd chain from the beginning of the round. Continue working from row 2 of the diagram. Keep repeating rows 2–3 until you have 8 treble rows in total. Now work the picot row: *1 dc in between the treble groups, ch 1, work the picot stitch (= ch 3 and 1 dc into the 3rd chain counting from the hook), ch 1*, repeat from * to * and close the round with 1 slip st. Break the yarn.

    Crochet a similar edging onto the other sleeve.

    Sew the side seams and attach the sleeves at the armholes.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference, measured at underarms 84(92)100(110)120 cm length of the garment 41(43)45(46)48 cm inner sleeve length 28(29)30(30)31 cm

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns:
    - Garter stitch:
    knit all rows.
    - Stockinette stitch:
    on the right side rows knit all sts. On the wrong side rows purl all sts.
    - Crochet pattern:
    crochet according to the diagrams and the written instructions.

    Gauge:
    24 sts and 34 rows in stockinette stitch = 10 cm

    The back

    Cast on 96(106)116(128)140 sts and work in garter stitch for 5 rows. Then switch to stockinette stitch.

    When the piece measures 5(5)6(6)7 cm, increase 1 st to both ends of the piece, inside the outermost stitches. Repeat the increases every 5 cm for 2 more times = 102(112)122(134)146 sts.

    When the piece measures 22(23)24(25)26 cm, on every 2nd row bind off for the underarm at both ends 1x5(5)6(6)7 sts, 0(0)0(1)1x3 sts, 1(2)3(3)3x2 sts and 3(3)2(2)3x1 st = 82(88)94(100)108 sts.

    When the armhole measures 17(18)19(19)20 cm, bind off the middle 32 sts for the neckline and switch to working one side of the neckline at a time. Bind off 2x2 sts on every 2nd row at neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(21)22 cm, bind off the remaining 21(24)27(30)34 sts on the shoulder.

    Knit the other side of the neckline to match.

    The right front

    Cast on 22(26)31(37)43 sts and work 5 rows in garter st.

    Switch to stockinette st and begin the increases at the front edge (right edge): on the RS row k1, make a right-leaning increase (m1r) (= insert the left-hand needle from back to front under the strand of yarn between the sts and knit it through the front loop) and knit to end of row. Repeat the increase every 4th row for another 9(9)10(10)11 times.

    Note: When the piece measures 5(5)6(6)7 cm, increase 1 st inside the outermost st at the left end. Repeat the increase every 5 cm for 2 more times.

    When the piece measures 17(17)18(18)19 cm, decrease 1 st at front edge: k1, skp (=slip 1, knit 1, and pass the slipped st over). Repeat the decrease every 4 rows for 16(16)17(17)18 more times.

    When the piece measures 22(23)24(25)26 cm, on every 2nd row bind off for the underarm at left end 1x5(5)6(6)7 sts, 0(0)0(1)1x3 sts, 1(2)3(3)3x2 sts and 3(3)2(2)3x1 st.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(21)22 cm, bind off the remaining 8(10)13(16)20 sts on the shoulder.

    The left front

    Knit as the mirror image of the right front piece. Work left-leaning increases on the front edge (= insert the left-hand needle from front to back under the strand of yarn between the sts and knit it through the back loop).

    The decreases at front edge are worked as k2tog.

    Sleeves

    Cast on 64(66)68(70)72 sts and work in stockinette stitch.

    When the piece measures 5(3)4(2)5 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 2,5(2,5)2(2)1,5 cm for 6(7)9(10)12 more times = 78(82)88(92)98 sts.

    When the piece measures 22(23)24(25)26 cm, on every 2nd row bind off at both ends 1x5(5)6(7)8 sts, 1x3 sts, 2(2)3(3)3x2 sts, 13(15)15(16)18x1 st, 2x2 sts and 1x3 sts.

    Knit the other sleeve to match.

    Finishing

    Lay the pieces to measurements wrong side up, mist with a spray bottle, and allow to dry.

    Crochet edging on the fronts: Join the yarn with 1 double crochet (dc) into the upper corner on the front edge of the left front, onto the right side of the work. Using the 2 mm crochet hook, work 1 row of double crochet. Work 1 dc per each row on the front edge, making sure that the stitch count is divisible by 5 + 2 sts.

    Change to the larger crochet hook and continue crocheting from row 1 of diagram I: (wrong side of the work) chain 3 ( = 1st treble), work 3 trebles into the next dc, ch 1, *skip 4 dc, work 4 trs into the next dc, ch 1*, repeat from * to * and work 1 more tr into the last dc. Now repeat rows 2–3 of the diagram twice and work row 2 once again. Break the yarn and sew the seam on the left shoulder.

    Join the yarn with 1 dc into the bottom corner on the front edge of the right front, onto the right side of the work. Using the 2 mm hook, work 1 row of double crochet as you did on the left front.

    Change to the 2½ mm hook and continue crocheting from row 1 of diagram II: (wrong side of the work) ch 4 (= 1st treble + 1 ch st), *skip 4 dc, work 4 trs into the next dc, ch1*, repeat from * to *, work 3 trs into the second-to-last dc on the row and 1 tr into the last dc. Now repeat rows 2-3 of diagram II for a total of 2 times and then work row 2 once more. Do not break the yarn. Sew the seam on the right shoulder and continue crocheting into the neckline on the back piece. Using the 2 mm hook work 1 dc into each st (stitch count divisible by 5 + 1 st). Break the yarn.

    Join the yarn with 1 dc into the lower corner on the front edge of the left front, to the wrong side of the work. Continue crocheting with the 2½ mm hook from row 1 of diagram III: chain 3, *work 4 trs in between the treble groups, ch 1* repeat from * to * throughout the front edge and on the back neckline work 4 trs into the first dc, **ch 1, skip 4 dc and work 4 trs into the next dc**, repeat from ** to ** throughout the back neckline. Continue crocheting into the front edge of the right front: ch 1, *work 4 trs in between the treble groups, ch1*, repeat from * to * and finally work 4 trs. Crochet row 2 per diagram III. Turn work and work the picot row: work 1 dc into the tr, *ch1, crochet the picot stitch (= ch 3 and work 1 dc into the 3rd ch st from the hook), ch 1, 1 dc in between the treble groups* and repeat from * to *. Break the yarn.

    Sew the sleeve seams.

    Crochet edging on the sleeves: Starting from the seam, join the yarn with 1 dc into the right side of the work and using the 2 mm hook work 1 round of dc. Always crochet 1 dc into each stitch, making sure the stitch count is divisible by 5. Change to the larger crochet hook and continue working from row 1 of diagram IV: ch 4, *skip 4 dc and work 4 trs into the next dc, ch 1* repeat from * to * and at the end work 3 trs and close the round with 1 slip st into the 3rd chain from the beginning of the round. Continue working from row 2 of the diagram. Keep repeating rows 2–3 until you have 8 treble rows in total. Now work the picot row: *1 dc in between the treble groups, ch 1, work the picot stitch (= ch 3 and 1 dc into the 3rd chain counting from the hook), ch 1*, repeat from * to * and close the round with 1 slip st. Break the yarn.

    Crochet a similar edging onto the other sleeve.

    Sew the side seams and attach the sleeves at the armholes.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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