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Women's cardigan Novita Nalle, Nalle Pelto ja Nalle Taika

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The pink colourwork patterns add a light touch to this cardigan, knitted from Novita Nalle, Nalle Pelto and Nalle Taika.
Magazine Novita Kevät 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 8
Skill level Intermediate
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N01198
Pattern details
Size
XS/S(M)L(XL)XXL

Yarn demand
Novita Nalle
(061) Linen 300(300)350(400)400 g,
(010) Off White 50(50)50(100)100 g,
(069) Nutria 50(50)50(100)100 g,

Novita Nalle Pelto (801)
Clover 50(50)100(100)100 g and

Novita Nalle Taika (807)
Red Clover 50(100)100(100)100 g

Needles and other supplies
Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 3-3½ mm (UK 9½-11 / US 2½-4) and 3½-4 mm (UK 8-9½ / US 4-6) or sizes needed to obtain gauge

Other supplies 5 buttons

Designer
Lea Petäjä

Details

Back

Using the Linen yarn, cast on 106(118)126(134)142 sts and begin ribbing on the WS with p2. Work for 1,5 cm.

Work 2 rows of stockinette st. On the first row, increase 1 st (XS/S, XL, XXL) or decrease 1 st (M, L) = 107(117)125(135)143 sts. Work 2 rows of stockinette st with the Taika yarn.

Begin the colourwork on row 5 of the chart. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Keep repeating the 16 st pattern to end of row. Work rows 6-82 of the chart, then use Linen for the rest of the piece.

Note: When the piece measures 16(17)17(18)18 cm, decrease 1 st at both ends inside the outermost st. Repeat the decreases every 7 cm 2 more times = 101(111)119(129)137 sts.

When the piece measures 41(42)43(44)45 cm, bind off 1x4(4)4(5)5 sts at both ends for the armholes. Then decrease 5(5)5(6)6x1 st at both ends on every other row = 83(93)101(107)115 sts.

When the armhole measures 17(18)19(20)21 cm, securely bind off the middle 31(31)31(33)33 sts. Work one side of the neckline at a time. On every other row bind off 2x2 sts at the neckline edge.

When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23 cm, bind off the remaining 22(27)31(33)37 shoulder sts. Work the other side of the neckline in the same manner.

Left front

Using the Linen yarn, cast on 51(55)59(63)67 sts and begin ribbing on the WS: p3, *k2, p2*, repeat *-* to end of row. Work for 1,5 cm.

Work 2 rows of stockinette st. On the first row, increase 0(1)1(2)2 st(s) = 51(56)60(65)69 sts. Work 2 rows of stockinette st with the Taika yarn.

Begin the colourwork on row 5 of the chart. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Keep repeating the 16 st pattern to end of row. Work rows 6-82 of the chart, then use Linen for the rest of the piece.

Note: When the piece measures 16(17)17(18)18 cm, decrease 1 st at the right end inside the outermost st. Repeat the decrease every 7 cm 2 more times = 48(53)57(62)66 sts.

When the piece measures 36(37)38(39)40 cm, begin the slanted neckline at the left end: work a RS row until 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decrease on every other row 3 more times and then 13(13)13(14)14 times on every 4th row.

Note: When the piece measures 41(42)43(44)45 cm, bind off 1x4(4)4(5)5 sts at the right end for the armhole. On every other row decrease 5(5)5(6)6x1 st at the armhole.

When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23 cm, bind off the remaining 22(27)31(33)37 shoulder sts.

Right front

Work as the mirror image of the left front. When decreasing at the neckline, skp (= slip 1 st knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped st over).

Sleeves

Using the Linen yarn, cast on 52(54)54(56)56 sts and work ribbing for 3 cm.

Work 2 rows of stockinette st. On the first row, increase 1 st = 53(55)55(57)57 sts. Work 2 rows of stockinette st with the Taika yarn.

Begin the colourwork on row 5 of the chart. The midpoint of the piece is marked with an arrow on the chart. Use that to determine the starting point. Work rows 6-39 of the chart, then use Linen for the rest of the piece.

Note: When the piece measures 9(7)10(7)12 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 3(3)2,5(2,5)2 cm 11(12)14(15)17 more times = 77(81)85(89)93 sts.

When the piece measures 45(46)47(47)48 cm, bind off 1x4(4)4(5)5 sts at both ends. Decrease 5(5)5(6)6x1 st at both ends on every other row. Then bind off the remaining sts.

Knit the other sleeve to match.

Finishing

Pin the pieces to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.

Sew the shoulder seams.

The front and back neckline edge is knitted in two stages.

Starting from the midpoint of the back neckline, pick up sts from the left side first. Using the Linen yarn, pick up 24 sts from the RS per each 10 cm. Cast on 1 st at the beginning of row for seaming. Make sure the stitch count is divisible by 4 + 3 sts. Begin ribbing on the WS, starting from the hem: p3, *k2, p2*, repeat *-*. Work ribbing for 2 cm and bind off in pattern.

Place markers for buttons on the piece. The topmost button will be at the starting point of the neckline decreases, with the rest below it at approx. 8 cm intervals.

Work the right border in the same manner. When the border measures 1 cm, work buttonholes at the spots you marked. Buttonhole: work 2 sts together, yarn over.

Attach the sleeves following the red markings on the pattern.

Sew the sleeve seams and side seams.

Attach the buttons.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
body circumference 92(100)108(116)124 cm / 36¼(39¼)42½(45¾)48¾ in length 60(62)64(66)68 cm / 23½(24½)25¼(26)26¾ in inner sleeve length 45(46)47(47)48 cm / 17¾(18)18½(18½)19 in

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:
- K2 p2 ribbing: *k2, p2*, repeat *-* to end of row. On the wrong side rows

Back

Using the Linen yarn, cast on 106(118)126(134)142 sts and begin ribbing on the WS with p2. Work for 1,5 cm.

Work 2 rows of stockinette st. On the first row, increase 1 st (XS/S, XL, XXL) or decrease 1 st (M, L) = 107(117)125(135)143 sts. Work 2 rows of stockinette st with the Taika yarn.

Begin the colourwork on row 5 of the chart. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Keep repeating the 16 st pattern to end of row. Work rows 6-82 of the chart, then use Linen for the rest of the piece.

Note: When the piece measures 16(17)17(18)18 cm, decrease 1 st at both ends inside the outermost st. Repeat the decreases every 7 cm 2 more times = 101(111)119(129)137 sts.

When the piece measures 41(42)43(44)45 cm, bind off 1x4(4)4(5)5 sts at both ends for the armholes. Then decrease 5(5)5(6)6x1 st at both ends on every other row = 83(93)101(107)115 sts.

When the armhole measures 17(18)19(20)21 cm, securely bind off the middle 31(31)31(33)33 sts. Work one side of the neckline at a time. On every other row bind off 2x2 sts at the neckline edge.

When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23 cm, bind off the remaining 22(27)31(33)37 shoulder sts. Work the other side of the neckline in the same manner.

Left front

Using the Linen yarn, cast on 51(55)59(63)67 sts and begin ribbing on the WS: p3, *k2, p2*, repeat *-* to end of row. Work for 1,5 cm.

Work 2 rows of stockinette st. On the first row, increase 0(1)1(2)2 st(s) = 51(56)60(65)69 sts. Work 2 rows of stockinette st with the Taika yarn.

Begin the colourwork on row 5 of the chart. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Keep repeating the 16 st pattern to end of row. Work rows 6-82 of the chart, then use Linen for the rest of the piece.

Note: When the piece measures 16(17)17(18)18 cm, decrease 1 st at the right end inside the outermost st. Repeat the decrease every 7 cm 2 more times = 48(53)57(62)66 sts.

When the piece measures 36(37)38(39)40 cm, begin the slanted neckline at the left end: work a RS row until 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decrease on every other row 3 more times and then 13(13)13(14)14 times on every 4th row.

Note: When the piece measures 41(42)43(44)45 cm, bind off 1x4(4)4(5)5 sts at the right end for the armhole. On every other row decrease 5(5)5(6)6x1 st at the armhole.

When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23 cm, bind off the remaining 22(27)31(33)37 shoulder sts.

Right front

Work as the mirror image of the left front. When decreasing at the neckline, skp (= slip 1 st knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped st over).

Sleeves

Using the Linen yarn, cast on 52(54)54(56)56 sts and work ribbing for 3 cm.

Work 2 rows of stockinette st. On the first row, increase 1 st = 53(55)55(57)57 sts. Work 2 rows of stockinette st with the Taika yarn.

Begin the colourwork on row 5 of the chart. The midpoint of the piece is marked with an arrow on the chart. Use that to determine the starting point. Work rows 6-39 of the chart, then use Linen for the rest of the piece.

Note: When the piece measures 9(7)10(7)12 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 3(3)2,5(2,5)2 cm 11(12)14(15)17 more times = 77(81)85(89)93 sts.

When the piece measures 45(46)47(47)48 cm, bind off 1x4(4)4(5)5 sts at both ends. Decrease 5(5)5(6)6x1 st at both ends on every other row. Then bind off the remaining sts.

Knit the other sleeve to match.

Finishing

Pin the pieces to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.

Sew the shoulder seams.

The front and back neckline edge is knitted in two stages.

Starting from the midpoint of the back neckline, pick up sts from the left side first. Using the Linen yarn, pick up 24 sts from the RS per each 10 cm. Cast on 1 st at the beginning of row for seaming. Make sure the stitch count is divisible by 4 + 3 sts. Begin ribbing on the WS, starting from the hem: p3, *k2, p2*, repeat *-*. Work ribbing for 2 cm and bind off in pattern.

Place markers for buttons on the piece. The topmost button will be at the starting point of the neckline decreases, with the rest below it at approx. 8 cm intervals.

Work the right border in the same manner. When the border measures 1 cm, work buttonholes at the spots you marked. Buttonhole: work 2 sts together, yarn over.

Attach the sleeves following the red markings on the pattern.

Sew the sleeve seams and side seams.

Attach the buttons.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

Find size guides for your knitting projects

With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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