My Cart

Mini Cart

Women's cabled sweater Novita Isoveli

As low as €1.90

Breathe in the fresh northern air, feel the smooth warm rocks under foot and let your gaze wander along the shimmering distant horizon.
Magazine Novita Kevät 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 12
Skill level Intermediate
Women's cabled sweater Novita Isoveli
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
Novita knitting needles 35 cm-7.0 mm
€3.00
Novita Finishing Needle 2 pcs
€1.90

* Required Fields

Your Customization
Women's cabled sweater Novita Isoveli
Women's cabled sweater Novita Isoveli

In stock

€1.90

- +
Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N011812
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS/S(M)L(XL)XXL(3XL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Isoveli
    (014) Ice 600(650)700(750)800(850) g

    Needles and other supplies
    Needles:
    Novita 6 mm and
    Novita 7 mm or sizes needed to obtain gauge
    Circular needle (40 cm):
    Novita 6 mm for the neckline

    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Details

    The back

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 74(78)84(90)96(102) sts and begin the k2, p3 ribbing on the wrong side of the work: k1(3)1(4)2(0)0, *p2, k3*, repeat *–* 13(13)15(15)17(19) more times, p2, k1(3)1(4)2(0)0. Work in ribbing for 4,5 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the cable pattern from row 1 of the chart: k13(15)18(21)24(27), work the 48 st pattern, k13(15)18(21)24(27). Keep working 13(15)18(21)24(27) sts at both ends in stockinette st while repeating rows 2–21 of the chart in the middle.

    When the piece measures 44(45)46(47)50(52) cm, bind off 1x3(3)3(4)4(4) sts at both ends for the armholes. Decrease 3(3)3(4)4(4)x1 st on every 2nd row at both ends: on the RS row, k1, skp (=slip 1, knit 1 and pass the slipped st over), and when 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1. 62(66)72(74)80(86) sts on the needles after the decreases.

    When the armhole measures 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm, leave the middle 22(22)22(24)24(24) sts on hold for the neckline. Work one side of the neckline at a time. At the neckline edge, decrease 2x1 st on every 2nd row as follows: work the RS row until 3 sts remain before the neckline, then k2tog, k1.

    When the armhole measures 19,5(20,5)21,5(22,5)22,5(23,5) cm, work one more WS row, dropping the midmost st in the purl section of the cable pattern off the needle and casting on 1 new st in its place. Bind off the 18(20)23(23)26(29) shoulder sts.

    Knit the other side of the neckline to match. Work the decreases as skp.

    The front

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 74(78)84(90)96(102) sts and begin the k2, p3 ribbing on the wrong side of the work: k1(3)1(4)2(0)0, *p2, k3*, repeat *–* 13(13)15(15)17(19) more times, p2, k1(3)1(4)2(0)0. Work in ribbing for 2,5 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the cable pattern from row 1 of the chart: k13(15)18(21)24(27), work the 48 st pattern, k13(15)18(21)24(27). Keep working 13(15)18(21)24(27) sts at both ends in stockinette st while repeating rows 2–21 of the chart in the middle.

    When the piece measures 42(43)44(45)48(50) cm, bind off 1x3(3)3(4)4(4) sts at both ends for the armholes. Decrease 3(3)3(4)4(4)x1 st on every 2nd row at both ends: on the RS row, k1, skp (=slip 1, knit 1 and pass the slipped st over), and when 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1. 62(66)72(74)80(86) sts on the needles after the decreases.

    When the armhole measures 14(15)16(16)16(17) cm, leave the middle 18 sts on hold for the neckline. Work the right side of the neckline first. At the neckline edge, decrease 4(4)4(5)5(5)x1 st on every 2nd row as follows: work the RS row until 3 sts remain before the neckline, then k2tog, k1.

    When the armhole measures 19,5(20,5)21,5(22,5)22,5(23,5) cm, work one more WS row, dropping the midmost st in the purl section of the cable pattern off the needle and casting on 1 new st in its place. Bind off the 18(20)23(23)26(29) shoulder sts.

    Knit the other side of the neckline to match. Work the decreases as skp.

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 36(38)38(38)40(40) sts and begin the k2, p3 ribbing on the wrong side of the work: k2(3)3(3)4(4)4, *p2, k3*, repeat *–* 5 more times, p2, k2(3)3(3)4(4)4. Work in ribbing for 2,5 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the cable pattern from row 1 of the chart: k9(10)10(10)11(11), work the 18 st pattern, k9(10)10(10)11(11). Keep working 9(10)10(10)11(11) sts at both ends in stockinette st while repeating rows 2–21 of the chart in the middle.

    When the piece measures 6(7)6(4)7(6) cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 4,5(4,5)4(4)4(4,5) cm for 8(8)10(11)10(12) more times = 54(56)60(62)62(66) sts.

    When the piece measures 46(47)48(49)49(50) cm, bind off 1x3(3)3(4)4(4) sts at both ends. Decrease 4(4)4(5)5(5)x1 st on every 2nd row at both ends: on the RS row, k1, skp, and when 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1. When you have finished the decreases, work one more WS row, dropping the midmost st of the cable pattern's purl sections at both ends off the needle. Cast on new sts in place of the dropped ones. On the next row, bind off.

    Knit the other sleeve to match.

    Finishing

    Sew the shoulder seams.

    Neckline edge: Using the circular needle, pick up the sts on hold at the neckline. Pick up and knit additional sts from the neckline edge for a total of 84(84)84(88)88(88) sts (start from one of the shoulder seams). Work k1, p1 ribbing in the round. On the 1st round, drop the midmost 1 st of the purl section off the needle at both ends of the front and back cable patterns. Cast on 3 new sts in place of the dropped ones. When the neckline edge measures 2,5 cm, bind off in pattern.

    Attach the sleeves at the armholes following the red markers in the pattern.

    Sew the sleeve seams and side seams. Leave the ribbing unsewn at the sides to create slits (2,5 cm in the front, 4,5 cm in the back).

    Lightly steam the sweater.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 98(106)114(122)130(138) cm length in front 62(64)66(68)71(74) cm the back of the sweater is 2 cm longer than the front inner sleeve length 46(47)48(49)49(50) cm

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns:
    - k2, p3 ribbing:
    *k2, p3*, repeat *–* to end of row. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches.
    - Stockinette stitch:
    Right side rows: knit all stitches. Wrong side rows: purl all stitches.
    - Cable pattern:
    Work following the chart and the written instructions.
    At the end you will drop the midmost purl st on both sides of the cable, letting it unravel down to the ribbing.
    - k1, p1 ribbing in the round:
    *k1, p1*, repeat *–*.

    Gauge:
    14 sts and 19 rows in stockinette stitch = 10 cm.
    Width of cable pattern on finished sweater approx. 31 cm

    The back

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 74(78)84(90)96(102) sts and begin the k2, p3 ribbing on the wrong side of the work: k1(3)1(4)2(0)0, *p2, k3*, repeat *–* 13(13)15(15)17(19) more times, p2, k1(3)1(4)2(0)0. Work in ribbing for 4,5 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the cable pattern from row 1 of the chart: k13(15)18(21)24(27), work the 48 st pattern, k13(15)18(21)24(27). Keep working 13(15)18(21)24(27) sts at both ends in stockinette st while repeating rows 2–21 of the chart in the middle.

    When the piece measures 44(45)46(47)50(52) cm, bind off 1x3(3)3(4)4(4) sts at both ends for the armholes. Decrease 3(3)3(4)4(4)x1 st on every 2nd row at both ends: on the RS row, k1, skp (=slip 1, knit 1 and pass the slipped st over), and when 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1. 62(66)72(74)80(86) sts on the needles after the decreases.

    When the armhole measures 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm, leave the middle 22(22)22(24)24(24) sts on hold for the neckline. Work one side of the neckline at a time. At the neckline edge, decrease 2x1 st on every 2nd row as follows: work the RS row until 3 sts remain before the neckline, then k2tog, k1.

    When the armhole measures 19,5(20,5)21,5(22,5)22,5(23,5) cm, work one more WS row, dropping the midmost st in the purl section of the cable pattern off the needle and casting on 1 new st in its place. Bind off the 18(20)23(23)26(29) shoulder sts.

    Knit the other side of the neckline to match. Work the decreases as skp.

    The front

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 74(78)84(90)96(102) sts and begin the k2, p3 ribbing on the wrong side of the work: k1(3)1(4)2(0)0, *p2, k3*, repeat *–* 13(13)15(15)17(19) more times, p2, k1(3)1(4)2(0)0. Work in ribbing for 2,5 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the cable pattern from row 1 of the chart: k13(15)18(21)24(27), work the 48 st pattern, k13(15)18(21)24(27). Keep working 13(15)18(21)24(27) sts at both ends in stockinette st while repeating rows 2–21 of the chart in the middle.

    When the piece measures 42(43)44(45)48(50) cm, bind off 1x3(3)3(4)4(4) sts at both ends for the armholes. Decrease 3(3)3(4)4(4)x1 st on every 2nd row at both ends: on the RS row, k1, skp (=slip 1, knit 1 and pass the slipped st over), and when 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1. 62(66)72(74)80(86) sts on the needles after the decreases.

    When the armhole measures 14(15)16(16)16(17) cm, leave the middle 18 sts on hold for the neckline. Work the right side of the neckline first. At the neckline edge, decrease 4(4)4(5)5(5)x1 st on every 2nd row as follows: work the RS row until 3 sts remain before the neckline, then k2tog, k1.

    When the armhole measures 19,5(20,5)21,5(22,5)22,5(23,5) cm, work one more WS row, dropping the midmost st in the purl section of the cable pattern off the needle and casting on 1 new st in its place. Bind off the 18(20)23(23)26(29) shoulder sts.

    Knit the other side of the neckline to match. Work the decreases as skp.

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 36(38)38(38)40(40) sts and begin the k2, p3 ribbing on the wrong side of the work: k2(3)3(3)4(4)4, *p2, k3*, repeat *–* 5 more times, p2, k2(3)3(3)4(4)4. Work in ribbing for 2,5 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the cable pattern from row 1 of the chart: k9(10)10(10)11(11), work the 18 st pattern, k9(10)10(10)11(11). Keep working 9(10)10(10)11(11) sts at both ends in stockinette st while repeating rows 2–21 of the chart in the middle.

    When the piece measures 6(7)6(4)7(6) cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 4,5(4,5)4(4)4(4,5) cm for 8(8)10(11)10(12) more times = 54(56)60(62)62(66) sts.

    When the piece measures 46(47)48(49)49(50) cm, bind off 1x3(3)3(4)4(4) sts at both ends. Decrease 4(4)4(5)5(5)x1 st on every 2nd row at both ends: on the RS row, k1, skp, and when 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1. When you have finished the decreases, work one more WS row, dropping the midmost st of the cable pattern's purl sections at both ends off the needle. Cast on new sts in place of the dropped ones. On the next row, bind off.

    Knit the other sleeve to match.

    Finishing

    Sew the shoulder seams.

    Neckline edge: Using the circular needle, pick up the sts on hold at the neckline. Pick up and knit additional sts from the neckline edge for a total of 84(84)84(88)88(88) sts (start from one of the shoulder seams). Work k1, p1 ribbing in the round. On the 1st round, drop the midmost 1 st of the purl section off the needle at both ends of the front and back cable patterns. Cast on 3 new sts in place of the dropped ones. When the neckline edge measures 2,5 cm, bind off in pattern.

    Attach the sleeves at the armholes following the red markers in the pattern.

    Sew the sleeve seams and side seams. Leave the ribbing unsewn at the sides to create slits (2,5 cm in the front, 4,5 cm in the back).

    Lightly steam the sweater.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

    Reviews

    Write Your Own Review

    Only registered users can write reviews. Please Sign in or create an account