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Women's cabled cardigan Novita Nordic Wool

Women's cabled cardigan Novita Nordic Wool

As low as €1.90

The pockets give a relaxed look to this classic cabled cardigan. Knitted from Novita Nordic Wool.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 2
Skill level Expert
Women's cabled cardigan Novita Nordic Wool
€4.50
€4.50
€4.50
€4.50
€4.50
€4.50
Novita Finishing Needle 2 pcs
€1.90

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Women's cabled cardigan Novita Nordic Wool
Women's cabled cardigan Novita Nordic Wool

In stock

€1.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N03182
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Nordic Wool
    (010) Off White 800(850)900(950)1000(1050) g

    Needles and other supplies
    Needles:
    Novita 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) or size needed to obtain gauge

    Ohter supplies:
    8 buttons

    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Details

    Back

    Cast on 132(142)152(162)172(182) sts and begin working the ribbing on the WS: k1, p1, *k3, p2*, repeat *–* until 5 sts remain, k3, p1, k1. Work in ribbing for 5 cm.

    On the next RS row begin working the cable pattern from row 4 of chart I: p1, work A(B)A(B)A(B)–C from the right end of the chart [= 10(5)10(5)10(5) sts], keep repeating C–D (= 10 sts) until 1 st remains, p1. Keep working 1 st at both ends of the piece in reverse stockinette st. Work rows 5–101 of the chart and then keep repeating rows 16–101.

    When the piece measures 23(23)24(24)25(25) cm, decrease 1 st at both ends. Repeat the decreases every 4 cm 9 more times = 112(122)132(142)152(162) sts.

    When the piece measures 67(68)69(70)72(73) cm, bind off at both ends on every other row 1x5 sts, 1x3 sts and 1x2 sts for the armholes = 92(102)112(122)132(142) sts.

    When the armhole measures 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm, bind off the middle 38(38)42(42)42(42) sts for the neckline. Work one side of the neckline at a time. On every other row, bind off 2x2 sts at the neckline edge.

    Then bind off the remaining 23(28)31(36)41(46) shoulder sts. Work the other side of the neckline to match.

    Left front

    Cast on 69(74)79(84)89(94) sts and begin working the ribbing on the WS from row 1 of chart I: work F–E from the left edge of the chart (= 8 sts), E–D (= 10 sts), then work D–C 4(5)5(6)6(7) times, work C–A(B)A(B)A(B) [= 10(5)10(5)10(5) sts], k1. Keep repeating rows 2–3. Work 1 st at the right end in reverse stockinette st.

    When you have worked 5 cm in ribbing and you have just worked row 3 of the chart, begin working the cable pattern on the next RS row from row 4 of the chart. Keep working 1 st at the right end in reverse stockinette st. Work rows 5–101 of the chart and then keep repeating rows 16–101.

    When the piece measures 23(23)24(24)25(25) cm, decrease 1 st at the right end. Repeat the decrease every 4 cm 9 more times = 59(64)69(74)79(84) sts.

    When the piece measures 67(68)69(70)72(73) cm, bind off at the right end on every other row 1x5 sts, 1x3 sts and 1x2 sts for the armhole = 49(54)59(64)69(74) sts.

    When the armhole measures 7(8)9(10)10(11) cm, leave 16(16)18(18)18(18) sts at the front edge (= left end) on hold for the neckline. On every other row, bind off 2x3 sts, 1x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, bind off the remaining 23(28)31(36)41(46) shoulder sts.

    Place markers for the buttons. The topmost button will be at the centre of the neckline edge (width approx. 3,5 cm) and the other 7 buttons at approx. every 9 cm below it.

    Right front

    Work as the mirror image of the left front piece but work the cable turns the same way as you did on the left front and on the back. Work buttonholes at the marked spots. Buttonhole: work 4 sts from the edge, k2tog, yo, work to end of row.

    Sleeves

    Cast on 62(62)62(62)72(72) sts and begin working the ribbing on the WS: k1, p1, *k3, p2*, repeat *–* until 5 sts remain, k3, p1, k1. Work in ribbing for 5 cm.

    On the next RS row begin the cable pattern from row 4 of chart I: p1, work A–C (= 10 sts) from the right edge, repeat C–D 4(4)4(4)5(5) times, work D–E (= 10 sts), p1. Work 1 st at both ends in reverse stockinette st and keep working the cable pattern as you did on the back piece.

    When the piece measures 10(9)6(9)11(7) cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 3(2,5)2,5(2)2,5(2,5) cm 11(14)16(19)14(16) more times = 86(92)96(102)102(106) sts. Work the increased sts following the cable pattern.

    When the piece measures 46(47)48(49)49(50) cm, bind off at both ends on every other row 1x5 sts, 1x3 sts and 4x2 sts. Then bind off the remaining sts.

    Knit the other sleeve to match.

    Pockets

    Cast on 46 sts and begin working ribbing on the WS: k2, p2, *k3, p2*, repeat *–* 7 more times, k2. Work in ribbing for 3,5 cm.

    Begin the cable pattern from row 4 of chart II: work A (= 13 sts), work B 2 times (= 20 sts), work C (= 13 sts). Work rows 5–19 and then keep repeating rows 4–19 until the pocket measures 18 cm. Bind off. Knit the other pocket to match.

    Finishing

    Sew the shoulder seams.

    Neckline edge: Using a circular needle, pick up the sts on hold. Pick up additional sts from the neckline edge so that there are 122(122)126(126)126(130) sts in total. The stitch count must be divisible by 4 + 2 sts. Begin ribbing on the WS: keep following the patterns as before with 8 sts at the front edge, p2, *k2, p2*, repeat *–* until 8 sts remain at the front edge and work them following the patterns. When the neckline edge measures 3,5 cm, bind off in pattern.

    Attach the sleeves. Sew the sleeve seams and side seams.

    Attach the pockets at approx. 33(33)34(34)35(35) cm below the armholes, placing one side of the pocket 2 cm from the side seam.

    Attach the buttons.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 88(96)104(112)120(128) cm / 34¾(37¾)41(44)47¼(50½) in length 86(88)90(92)94(96) cm / 33¾(34¾)35½(36¼)37(37¾) in inner sleeve length 46(47)48(49)49(50) cm / 18(18½)19(19¼)19¼(19¾) in

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns:
    - Ribbing:
    *p3, k2*, repeat *–* to end of row. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches.
    - Reverse stockinette stitch:
    Right side rows: purl all stitches.
    Wrong side rows: knit all sts.
    - Cable pattern:
    Work following the chart and the written instructions.
    - Garter stitch:
    knit all rows.

    Gauge:
    25 sts and 29 rows of the cable pattern = 10 cm / 4 in

    Back

    Cast on 132(142)152(162)172(182) sts and begin working the ribbing on the WS: k1, p1, *k3, p2*, repeat *–* until 5 sts remain, k3, p1, k1. Work in ribbing for 5 cm.

    On the next RS row begin working the cable pattern from row 4 of chart I: p1, work A(B)A(B)A(B)–C from the right end of the chart [= 10(5)10(5)10(5) sts], keep repeating C–D (= 10 sts) until 1 st remains, p1. Keep working 1 st at both ends of the piece in reverse stockinette st. Work rows 5–101 of the chart and then keep repeating rows 16–101.

    When the piece measures 23(23)24(24)25(25) cm, decrease 1 st at both ends. Repeat the decreases every 4 cm 9 more times = 112(122)132(142)152(162) sts.

    When the piece measures 67(68)69(70)72(73) cm, bind off at both ends on every other row 1x5 sts, 1x3 sts and 1x2 sts for the armholes = 92(102)112(122)132(142) sts.

    When the armhole measures 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm, bind off the middle 38(38)42(42)42(42) sts for the neckline. Work one side of the neckline at a time. On every other row, bind off 2x2 sts at the neckline edge.

    Then bind off the remaining 23(28)31(36)41(46) shoulder sts. Work the other side of the neckline to match.

    Left front

    Cast on 69(74)79(84)89(94) sts and begin working the ribbing on the WS from row 1 of chart I: work F–E from the left edge of the chart (= 8 sts), E–D (= 10 sts), then work D–C 4(5)5(6)6(7) times, work C–A(B)A(B)A(B) [= 10(5)10(5)10(5) sts], k1. Keep repeating rows 2–3. Work 1 st at the right end in reverse stockinette st.

    When you have worked 5 cm in ribbing and you have just worked row 3 of the chart, begin working the cable pattern on the next RS row from row 4 of the chart. Keep working 1 st at the right end in reverse stockinette st. Work rows 5–101 of the chart and then keep repeating rows 16–101.

    When the piece measures 23(23)24(24)25(25) cm, decrease 1 st at the right end. Repeat the decrease every 4 cm 9 more times = 59(64)69(74)79(84) sts.

    When the piece measures 67(68)69(70)72(73) cm, bind off at the right end on every other row 1x5 sts, 1x3 sts and 1x2 sts for the armhole = 49(54)59(64)69(74) sts.

    When the armhole measures 7(8)9(10)10(11) cm, leave 16(16)18(18)18(18) sts at the front edge (= left end) on hold for the neckline. On every other row, bind off 2x3 sts, 1x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, bind off the remaining 23(28)31(36)41(46) shoulder sts.

    Place markers for the buttons. The topmost button will be at the centre of the neckline edge (width approx. 3,5 cm) and the other 7 buttons at approx. every 9 cm below it.

    Right front

    Work as the mirror image of the left front piece but work the cable turns the same way as you did on the left front and on the back. Work buttonholes at the marked spots. Buttonhole: work 4 sts from the edge, k2tog, yo, work to end of row.

    Sleeves

    Cast on 62(62)62(62)72(72) sts and begin working the ribbing on the WS: k1, p1, *k3, p2*, repeat *–* until 5 sts remain, k3, p1, k1. Work in ribbing for 5 cm.

    On the next RS row begin the cable pattern from row 4 of chart I: p1, work A–C (= 10 sts) from the right edge, repeat C–D 4(4)4(4)5(5) times, work D–E (= 10 sts), p1. Work 1 st at both ends in reverse stockinette st and keep working the cable pattern as you did on the back piece.

    When the piece measures 10(9)6(9)11(7) cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 3(2,5)2,5(2)2,5(2,5) cm 11(14)16(19)14(16) more times = 86(92)96(102)102(106) sts. Work the increased sts following the cable pattern.

    When the piece measures 46(47)48(49)49(50) cm, bind off at both ends on every other row 1x5 sts, 1x3 sts and 4x2 sts. Then bind off the remaining sts.

    Knit the other sleeve to match.

    Pockets

    Cast on 46 sts and begin working ribbing on the WS: k2, p2, *k3, p2*, repeat *–* 7 more times, k2. Work in ribbing for 3,5 cm.

    Begin the cable pattern from row 4 of chart II: work A (= 13 sts), work B 2 times (= 20 sts), work C (= 13 sts). Work rows 5–19 and then keep repeating rows 4–19 until the pocket measures 18 cm. Bind off. Knit the other pocket to match.

    Finishing

    Sew the shoulder seams.

    Neckline edge: Using a circular needle, pick up the sts on hold. Pick up additional sts from the neckline edge so that there are 122(122)126(126)126(130) sts in total. The stitch count must be divisible by 4 + 2 sts. Begin ribbing on the WS: keep following the patterns as before with 8 sts at the front edge, p2, *k2, p2*, repeat *–* until 8 sts remain at the front edge and work them following the patterns. When the neckline edge measures 3,5 cm, bind off in pattern.

    Attach the sleeves. Sew the sleeve seams and side seams.

    Attach the pockets at approx. 33(33)34(34)35(35) cm below the armholes, placing one side of the pocket 2 cm from the side seam.

    Attach the buttons.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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