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Women's cabled cardigan Novita Natura

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This long cardigan, knitted from Novita Natura, features impressive cables.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 5
Skill level Intermediate
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N03185
Pattern details
Size
XS/S(M)L(XL)XXL

Yarn demand
Novita Natura
(045) clay 850(900)950(1000)1050 g

Needles and other supplies
Needles:
Novita 6 mm and 7 mm or sizes needed to obtain gauge

Circular needle (80 cm):
Novita 6 mm for the ribbing on the front edge

Designer
Lea Petäjä

Details

Back

Using the smaller needles, cast on 98(100)106(108)112 sts and begin the ribbing on the WS: k2(3)2(3)1, *p2, k2*, repeat *-*. At the end of row, p2, k2(3)2(3)1. Work in ribbing for 6 cm.

Switch to the larger needles. Begin working garter st and the cable pattern from row 1 of chart I(II)II(III)III: k10(11)14(15)17, *work section A (= 14+2 sts), work section B [= 2-1 sts (2 sts) 2 sts (2+1 sts) 2+1 sts]*, repeat *-* 3 more times, work A, k10(11)14(15)17. 6(10)10(14)14 sts increased, 104(110)116(122)126 sts on the needles.

Work rows 2-4. Work rows 5-10 three times, then work rows 11-12.

Now keep repeating rows 13-60.

Note: When the piece measures 29(30)30(31)31 cm, decrease 1 st at both ends on a RS row: on the garter st section next to the right cable section, work the skp decrease (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), and on the garter st section next to the left cable section, k2tog = 102(108)114(120)124 sts.

When the piece measures 37(38)38(39)39 cm, on a RS row decrease 1 st at both ends as before, and also decrease 1 st between each cable (work the skp decrease). 6 sts decreased, 96(102)108(114)118 sts on the needles.

When the piece measures 45(46)46(47)47 cm, decrease 1 st at both ends on a RS row = 94(100)106(112)116 sts.

When the piece measures 53(54)54(55)55 cm, on a RS row decrease 1 st at both ends as before as well as 1 st between each cable. 6 sts decreased, 88(94)100(106)110 sts on the needles.

When the piece measures 61(62)62(63)63 cm, decrease 1 st at both ends on a RS row = 86(92)98(104)108 sts.

When the piece measures 78(79)80(82)83 cm, bind off 1x2(2)3(3)4 sts at both ends for the armholes. Then decrease 3(3)4(4)4x1 st at both ends on every other row = 76(82)84(90)92 sts.

When the armhole measures 18(19)20(20)21 cm, securely bind off the middle 24(26)26(28)28 sts for the neckline. Work one side of the neckline at a time. Decrease 2x1 st on every other row at the neckline edge.

When the armhole measures 20(21)22(22)23 cm, decrease 2 sts at each cable on a WS row. On the next row, bind off the shoulder sts.

Work the other side of the neckline to match.

Left front

Using the smaller needles, cast on 46(48)51(53)55 sts and begin working ribbing on the WS with k2 (p1, k2) p1, k2 (p2, k2) p2, k2. *P2, k2*, repeat *-*, and at the end of row p2, k2(3)2(3)1. Work in ribbing for 6 cm.

Switch to the larger needles. Begin working garter st and the cable pattern from row 1 of chart I(II)II(III)III: k10(11)14(15)17, work section A (= 14+2 sts), work section B [= 2-1 sts (2 sts) 2 sts (2+1 sts) 2+1 sts], work A (14+2 sts), k6(7)7(8)8. 3(4)4(5)5 sts increased, 49(52)55(58)60 sts on the needles.

Work rows 2-4. Work rows 5-10 three times, then work rows 11-12.

Now keep repeating rows 13-60.

Note: When the piece measures 29(30)30(31)31 cm, decrease 1 st at the right end on a RS row: on the garter st section next to the right cable pattern, skp = 48(51)54(57)59 sts.

When the piece measures 37(38)38(39)39 cm, on a RS row decrease 1 st at the right end as well as 1 st between the cables. 2 sts decreased, 46(49)52(55)57 sts on the needles.

When the piece measures 45(46)46(47)47 cm, decrease 1 st at the right end on a RS row = 45(48)51(54)56 sts.

When the piece measures 53(54)54(55)55 cm, on a RS row decrease 1 st at the right end as well as 1 st between the cables. 2 sts decreased, 43(46)49(52)54 sts on the needles.

When the piece measures 61(62)62(63)63 cm, decrease 1 st at the right end on a RS row = 42(45)48(51)53 sts.

When the piece measures 73(74)75(77)78 cm, begin the decreases for the neckline: work a RS row until 2 sts remain, k2tog. Repeat the decrease every other row 1(2)2(3)3 more times, and then 11 times on every 4th row.

Note: When the piece measures 78(79)80(82)83 cm, bind off 1x2(2)3(3)4 sts at the right end for the armhole. Decrease 3(3)4(4)4x1 st at the right end on every other row.

When the armhole measures 20(21)22(22)23 cm, decrease 2 sts at each cable on a WS row. On the next row, bind off the shoulder sts.

Right front

Work as the mirror image of the left front.

Sleeves

Using the smaller needles, cast on 36(38)40(40)42 sts and begin working ribbing on the WS with p1, k2 (p2, k2) k1 (k1) k2. *P2, k2*, repeat *-*, and at the end of row p1 (p2) p2, k1 (p2, k1) p2, k2.. Work in ribbing for 3 cm.

Switch to the larger needles. Begin working garter st and the cable pattern from row 1 of chart I(II)II(III)III: k3(4)5(5)6, work section A (= 14+2 sts), work section B [= 2-1 sts (2 sts) 2 sts (2+1 sts) 2+1 sts], work A (= 14+2 sts), k3(4)5(5)6. 3(4)4(5)5 sts increased, 39(42)44(45)47 sts on the needles.

Work row 2 of the chart. Work row 3, decreasing 2 sts between the cables = 37(40)42(43)45 sts. Then work row 4.

Work rows 5-10 three times, then work rows 11-12. Now keep repeating rows 13-60.

Note: When the piece measures 10(12)10(12)13 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Work the increases 2 sts from each edge by knitting the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop. Work the increased sts in garter st. Repeat the increases every 4(3,5)3,5(3)3 cm 8(9)10(11)11 more times = 55(60)64(67)69 sts.

When the piece measures 46(47)48(48)49 cm, bind off 1x2(2)3(3)4 sts at both ends. Decrease 3(3)4(4)4x1 sts at both ends on every other row. Note: On the last WS row, bind off 2 sts at both cables. On the next row, bind off the remaining sts.

Knit the other sleeve to match.

Finishing

Pin the pieces to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.

Sew the shoulder seams.

Attach the sleeves at the armholes following the red markers on the pattern.

Sew the side seams and the sleeve seams.

Collar: Using the smaller needles, pick up and knit sts from the edges of the front pieces and the neckline, three sts for every 4 rows. The stitch count must be divisible by 4. Begin working ribbing on the WS (work the sts on the 1st row through the back loop): p3, k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *-*, p3. When the ribbing measures 7 cm, bind off in pattern.

Belt: Cast on 10 sts and work in k1 p1 ribbing. When the belt measures approx. 150-180 cm, bind off in pattern.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
body circumference approx. 100(108)116(124)132 cm length approx. 98(100)102(104)106 cm inner sleeve length 46(47)48(48)49 cm

Stitch patterns & gauge
-Stitch patterns Ribbing:
*k2, p2*, repeat *-*. On the wrong side rows

Back

Using the smaller needles, cast on 98(100)106(108)112 sts and begin the ribbing on the WS: k2(3)2(3)1, *p2, k2*, repeat *-*. At the end of row, p2, k2(3)2(3)1. Work in ribbing for 6 cm.

Switch to the larger needles. Begin working garter st and the cable pattern from row 1 of chart I(II)II(III)III: k10(11)14(15)17, *work section A (= 14+2 sts), work section B [= 2-1 sts (2 sts) 2 sts (2+1 sts) 2+1 sts]*, repeat *-* 3 more times, work A, k10(11)14(15)17. 6(10)10(14)14 sts increased, 104(110)116(122)126 sts on the needles.

Work rows 2-4. Work rows 5-10 three times, then work rows 11-12.

Now keep repeating rows 13-60.

Note: When the piece measures 29(30)30(31)31 cm, decrease 1 st at both ends on a RS row: on the garter st section next to the right cable section, work the skp decrease (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), and on the garter st section next to the left cable section, k2tog = 102(108)114(120)124 sts.

When the piece measures 37(38)38(39)39 cm, on a RS row decrease 1 st at both ends as before, and also decrease 1 st between each cable (work the skp decrease). 6 sts decreased, 96(102)108(114)118 sts on the needles.

When the piece measures 45(46)46(47)47 cm, decrease 1 st at both ends on a RS row = 94(100)106(112)116 sts.

When the piece measures 53(54)54(55)55 cm, on a RS row decrease 1 st at both ends as before as well as 1 st between each cable. 6 sts decreased, 88(94)100(106)110 sts on the needles.

When the piece measures 61(62)62(63)63 cm, decrease 1 st at both ends on a RS row = 86(92)98(104)108 sts.

When the piece measures 78(79)80(82)83 cm, bind off 1x2(2)3(3)4 sts at both ends for the armholes. Then decrease 3(3)4(4)4x1 st at both ends on every other row = 76(82)84(90)92 sts.

When the armhole measures 18(19)20(20)21 cm, securely bind off the middle 24(26)26(28)28 sts for the neckline. Work one side of the neckline at a time. Decrease 2x1 st on every other row at the neckline edge.

When the armhole measures 20(21)22(22)23 cm, decrease 2 sts at each cable on a WS row. On the next row, bind off the shoulder sts.

Work the other side of the neckline to match.

Left front

Using the smaller needles, cast on 46(48)51(53)55 sts and begin working ribbing on the WS with k2 (p1, k2) p1, k2 (p2, k2) p2, k2. *P2, k2*, repeat *-*, and at the end of row p2, k2(3)2(3)1. Work in ribbing for 6 cm.

Switch to the larger needles. Begin working garter st and the cable pattern from row 1 of chart I(II)II(III)III: k10(11)14(15)17, work section A (= 14+2 sts), work section B [= 2-1 sts (2 sts) 2 sts (2+1 sts) 2+1 sts], work A (14+2 sts), k6(7)7(8)8. 3(4)4(5)5 sts increased, 49(52)55(58)60 sts on the needles.

Work rows 2-4. Work rows 5-10 three times, then work rows 11-12.

Now keep repeating rows 13-60.

Note: When the piece measures 29(30)30(31)31 cm, decrease 1 st at the right end on a RS row: on the garter st section next to the right cable pattern, skp = 48(51)54(57)59 sts.

When the piece measures 37(38)38(39)39 cm, on a RS row decrease 1 st at the right end as well as 1 st between the cables. 2 sts decreased, 46(49)52(55)57 sts on the needles.

When the piece measures 45(46)46(47)47 cm, decrease 1 st at the right end on a RS row = 45(48)51(54)56 sts.

When the piece measures 53(54)54(55)55 cm, on a RS row decrease 1 st at the right end as well as 1 st between the cables. 2 sts decreased, 43(46)49(52)54 sts on the needles.

When the piece measures 61(62)62(63)63 cm, decrease 1 st at the right end on a RS row = 42(45)48(51)53 sts.

When the piece measures 73(74)75(77)78 cm, begin the decreases for the neckline: work a RS row until 2 sts remain, k2tog. Repeat the decrease every other row 1(2)2(3)3 more times, and then 11 times on every 4th row.

Note: When the piece measures 78(79)80(82)83 cm, bind off 1x2(2)3(3)4 sts at the right end for the armhole. Decrease 3(3)4(4)4x1 st at the right end on every other row.

When the armhole measures 20(21)22(22)23 cm, decrease 2 sts at each cable on a WS row. On the next row, bind off the shoulder sts.

Right front

Work as the mirror image of the left front.

Sleeves

Using the smaller needles, cast on 36(38)40(40)42 sts and begin working ribbing on the WS with p1, k2 (p2, k2) k1 (k1) k2. *P2, k2*, repeat *-*, and at the end of row p1 (p2) p2, k1 (p2, k1) p2, k2.. Work in ribbing for 3 cm.

Switch to the larger needles. Begin working garter st and the cable pattern from row 1 of chart I(II)II(III)III: k3(4)5(5)6, work section A (= 14+2 sts), work section B [= 2-1 sts (2 sts) 2 sts (2+1 sts) 2+1 sts], work A (= 14+2 sts), k3(4)5(5)6. 3(4)4(5)5 sts increased, 39(42)44(45)47 sts on the needles.

Work row 2 of the chart. Work row 3, decreasing 2 sts between the cables = 37(40)42(43)45 sts. Then work row 4.

Work rows 5-10 three times, then work rows 11-12. Now keep repeating rows 13-60.

Note: When the piece measures 10(12)10(12)13 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Work the increases 2 sts from each edge by knitting the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop. Work the increased sts in garter st. Repeat the increases every 4(3,5)3,5(3)3 cm 8(9)10(11)11 more times = 55(60)64(67)69 sts.

When the piece measures 46(47)48(48)49 cm, bind off 1x2(2)3(3)4 sts at both ends. Decrease 3(3)4(4)4x1 sts at both ends on every other row. Note: On the last WS row, bind off 2 sts at both cables. On the next row, bind off the remaining sts.

Knit the other sleeve to match.

Finishing

Pin the pieces to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.

Sew the shoulder seams.

Attach the sleeves at the armholes following the red markers on the pattern.

Sew the side seams and the sleeve seams.

Collar: Using the smaller needles, pick up and knit sts from the edges of the front pieces and the neckline, three sts for every 4 rows. The stitch count must be divisible by 4. Begin working ribbing on the WS (work the sts on the 1st row through the back loop): p3, k2, *p2, k2*, repeat *-*, p3. When the ribbing measures 7 cm, bind off in pattern.

Belt: Cast on 10 sts and work in k1 p1 ribbing. When the belt measures approx. 150-180 cm, bind off in pattern.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

Find size guides for your knitting projects

With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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