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Women's cabled cardigan Novita Nalle

As low as €1.90

This linen-coloured cable cardigan is a classic for your wardrobe, easy to combine with trousers and skirts alike. Knitted from Novita Nalle.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 30
Skill level Intermediate
Women's cabled cardigan Novita Nalle
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
Novita knitting pins 35 cm-3.5 mm
€3.00
Novita Finishing Needle 2 pcs
€1.90

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Women's cabled cardigan Novita Nalle
Women's cabled cardigan Novita Nalle

In stock

€1.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N031830
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Nalle
    (061) Linen 450(500)550(600)650(700) g

    Needles and other supplies
    Needles:
    Novita 3½–4 mm (UK 8–10 / US 4–6)
    or size needed to obtain gauge

    Other supplies:
    5 buttons

    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Details

    Back

    Cast on 125(135)145(155)165(175) sts and begin the ribbing on the WS with p1. Work for 4 cm.

    Begin the cable pattern from row 1 of chart I: work 4 sts from the right end of the chart, work the pattern repeat 6(6)7(7)8(8) times, work 0(12)0(12)0(12) sts from the left end, p1(0)1(0)1(0). 1 st increased on each cable, 137(148)159(170)181(192) sts on the needles. Keep repeating rows 2–13 of the chart.

    When the piece measures 9(10)10(11(11) cm, decrease 1 st at both ends. Repeat the decreases every 9 cm 2 more times = 131(142)153(164)175(186) sts.

    When the piece measures 35(36)37(38)41(43) cm, bind off 1x5 sts, 2x2 sts and 1x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 111(122)133(144)155(166) sts.

    When the armhole measures 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm, bind off the middle 35(36)35(38)39(38) sts for the neckline. Work one side of the neckline at a time. Bind off 2x2 sts at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, bind off 34(39)45(49)54(60) sts for the shoulder. Knit the other side of the neckline to match.

    Left front

    Cast on 68(68)78(78)88(88) sts and begin ribbing on the WS: k6, *k1, p1*, repeat *–*, k1. At the front edge (left end), work 6 sts in garter st. Work the other sts in ribbing and continue for 4 cm.

    Begin the cable pattern from row 1 of chart I: work 4 sts from the right end, work the pattern repeat until 6 sts remain at the front edge, k6. 1 st increased on each cable, 74(74)85(85)96(96) sts on the needles. Continue working the 6 front edge sts in garter st. On the cable pattern, keep repeating rows 2–13.

    When the piece measures 9(10)10(11(11) cm, decrease 1 st at the right end. Repeat the decrease every 9 cm 2 more times.

    Note: When the piece measures 25(27)28(30)32(35) cm, begin decreases for slanting the neckline: on a RS row, work until 9 sts remain, k2tog, work to end. Repeat the decrease every 1 cm 14(4)13(5)16(4) more times and then 6(11)7(11)6(12) times every 2 cm. Decrease by k2tog at the cable and by p2tog at the purl sts. Note: When 1 knit st remains at the cable, purl the st from then on.

    When the piece measures 35(36)37(38)41(43) cm, bind off 1x5 sts, 2x2 sts and 1x1 st at the right end for the armhole.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, bind off 34(39)45(49)54(60) sts for the shoulder. 6 sts remaining at the edge. Increase 1 st on the shoulder side for seaming. Work these 7 sts in garter st for half the length of the neckline on the back piece, stretching the edge as you go. Leave the sts on hold on e.g. a piece of yarn.

    Now mark the spots for buttons on the front edge of the piece. The topmost button will be where the slanted neckline begins, the lowest at 2 cm from the hem, and the rest equally spaced in between.

    Right front

    Work the right front as the mirror image of the left front. Turn the cables in the same direction as on the left front. Work buttonholes onto the front edge on the proper spots. Buttonhole: On a RS row k2, k2tog, yo, work to end.

    Work the neckline decreases at the cables by skp (= slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped st over) and by p2tog at the purl sts.

    Sleeves

    Cast on 61(63)63(67)67(69) sts and begin ribbing on the WS with p1(k1)k1(k1)k1(p1). Work for 4 cm.

    Begin the cable pattern from row 1 of chart II. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Work the pattern repeat as needed to end of row. 1 st increased on each cable, 67(69)69(73)73(75) sts on the needles. Keep repeating rows 2–13 of the chart.

    When the piece measures 6(12)5(5)12(10) cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 2,5(2)2(2)1,5(1,5) cm 15(17)20(21)23(25) more times = 99(105)111(117)121(127) sts. Work the increased sts following the cable pattern.

    When the piece measures 45(46)47(48)48(49) cm, bind off 1x5 sts, 2x2 sts, and 1x1 st on every other row at both ends. Bind off the remaining sts.

    Knit the other sleeve to match.

    Finishing

    Pin the pieces to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.

    Sew the shoulder seams.

    Attach the neckband onto the back neckline. Sew or stitch the neckband seam.

    Attach the sleeves. Sew the sleeve seams and side seams. Attach the

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 88(96)104(112)120(128) cm / 34¾(37¾)41(44)47¼(50½) in length 54(56)58(60)63(66) cm / 21¼(22)22¾(23½)24¾(26) in inner sleeve length 45(46)47(48)48(49) cm / 17¾(18)18½(19)19(19¼) in

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns:
    - Ribbing:
    *p1, k1*, repeat *–* to end of row. On the WS rows, knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches.
    - Cable pattern:
    work following the chart and the written instructions.
    - Garter stitch:
    knit all rows.
    - Reverse stockinette stitch:
    RS rows: purl all stitches.
    WS rows: knit all stitches.

    Gauge:
    29 sts and 30 rows of the cable pattern = 10 cm / 4 in

    Back

    Cast on 125(135)145(155)165(175) sts and begin the ribbing on the WS with p1. Work for 4 cm.

    Begin the cable pattern from row 1 of chart I: work 4 sts from the right end of the chart, work the pattern repeat 6(6)7(7)8(8) times, work 0(12)0(12)0(12) sts from the left end, p1(0)1(0)1(0). 1 st increased on each cable, 137(148)159(170)181(192) sts on the needles. Keep repeating rows 2–13 of the chart.

    When the piece measures 9(10)10(11(11) cm, decrease 1 st at both ends. Repeat the decreases every 9 cm 2 more times = 131(142)153(164)175(186) sts.

    When the piece measures 35(36)37(38)41(43) cm, bind off 1x5 sts, 2x2 sts and 1x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 111(122)133(144)155(166) sts.

    When the armhole measures 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm, bind off the middle 35(36)35(38)39(38) sts for the neckline. Work one side of the neckline at a time. Bind off 2x2 sts at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, bind off 34(39)45(49)54(60) sts for the shoulder. Knit the other side of the neckline to match.

    Left front

    Cast on 68(68)78(78)88(88) sts and begin ribbing on the WS: k6, *k1, p1*, repeat *–*, k1. At the front edge (left end), work 6 sts in garter st. Work the other sts in ribbing and continue for 4 cm.

    Begin the cable pattern from row 1 of chart I: work 4 sts from the right end, work the pattern repeat until 6 sts remain at the front edge, k6. 1 st increased on each cable, 74(74)85(85)96(96) sts on the needles. Continue working the 6 front edge sts in garter st. On the cable pattern, keep repeating rows 2–13.

    When the piece measures 9(10)10(11(11) cm, decrease 1 st at the right end. Repeat the decrease every 9 cm 2 more times.

    Note: When the piece measures 25(27)28(30)32(35) cm, begin decreases for slanting the neckline: on a RS row, work until 9 sts remain, k2tog, work to end. Repeat the decrease every 1 cm 14(4)13(5)16(4) more times and then 6(11)7(11)6(12) times every 2 cm. Decrease by k2tog at the cable and by p2tog at the purl sts. Note: When 1 knit st remains at the cable, purl the st from then on.

    When the piece measures 35(36)37(38)41(43) cm, bind off 1x5 sts, 2x2 sts and 1x1 st at the right end for the armhole.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)22(23) cm, bind off 34(39)45(49)54(60) sts for the shoulder. 6 sts remaining at the edge. Increase 1 st on the shoulder side for seaming. Work these 7 sts in garter st for half the length of the neckline on the back piece, stretching the edge as you go. Leave the sts on hold on e.g. a piece of yarn.

    Now mark the spots for buttons on the front edge of the piece. The topmost button will be where the slanted neckline begins, the lowest at 2 cm from the hem, and the rest equally spaced in between.

    Right front

    Work the right front as the mirror image of the left front. Turn the cables in the same direction as on the left front. Work buttonholes onto the front edge on the proper spots. Buttonhole: On a RS row k2, k2tog, yo, work to end.

    Work the neckline decreases at the cables by skp (= slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped st over) and by p2tog at the purl sts.

    Sleeves

    Cast on 61(63)63(67)67(69) sts and begin ribbing on the WS with p1(k1)k1(k1)k1(p1). Work for 4 cm.

    Begin the cable pattern from row 1 of chart II. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Work the pattern repeat as needed to end of row. 1 st increased on each cable, 67(69)69(73)73(75) sts on the needles. Keep repeating rows 2–13 of the chart.

    When the piece measures 6(12)5(5)12(10) cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 2,5(2)2(2)1,5(1,5) cm 15(17)20(21)23(25) more times = 99(105)111(117)121(127) sts. Work the increased sts following the cable pattern.

    When the piece measures 45(46)47(48)48(49) cm, bind off 1x5 sts, 2x2 sts, and 1x1 st on every other row at both ends. Bind off the remaining sts.

    Knit the other sleeve to match.

    Finishing

    Pin the pieces to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.

    Sew the shoulder seams.

    Attach the neckband onto the back neckline. Sew or stitch the neckband seam.

    Attach the sleeves. Sew the sleeve seams and side seams. Attach the


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Here you find size guides for your knitting projects!




     
     




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