Womans Lace Vest Novita 7 Veljestä (7 Brothers)

As low as €6.96

Vest worked in Novita 7 veljestä (7 Brothers) yarn featuring a light lace pattern on skirt. The vest is long, keeping you nicely warm but without being too hot indoors.
Novita Talvi 2012 -lehti (in Finnish)
21
Intermediate
Customize Womans Lace Vest Novita 7 Veljestä (7 Brothers)

* Required Fields

Your Customization

    €6.96

    - +

    Availability: In stock

    N041221
    Size
    XS-S-M-L-XL-XXL

    Yarn demand
    Novita 7 Veljestä (549 christmas) 500[550:600:650:700] g

    Needles and other supplies
    1 pair Novita 4,5 mm needles
    Other notions:
    4 buttons

    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Stitch pattern

    Lace pattern: See chart.

    Garter stitch: knit every row.

    Stocking stitch: knit on RS, purl on WS.

    Tension

    18 sts and 23 rows to 10 cm measured over stocking st

    19 sts to 10 cm measured over lace patt

    Skirt

    Back and fronts of the skirt are worked in one piece until the armholes.

    Cast on 203[221:239:257:275] sts. Work in garter st for 3 rows. Beg and ending rows as indicated, cont in patt from chart as folls:

    Row 1: Work 2 sts as indicated in chart (from right end), repeat 18st patt 11[12:13:14:15] times, work 3 sts from left end in chart. Cont in patt and repeat rows 1-10. Work until skirt meas about 47[47:48:50:51] cm. End with row 10 of chart.

    Rows 11-13: Work 2 sts in garter st, repeat 18st patt 11(12)13(14)15 times, work 3 sts in garter st. 44[48:52:56:60] sts will be decreased during row 11 and row 13 = 159[173:187:201:215] sts. Cont in stocking st and work 5 sts at both ends in garter st. Work until skirt meas 57[58:59:62:63] cm. Divide the skirt into 3 pieces as folls: 41[44:48:51:55] sts for right front, 77[85:91:99:105] sts for back, 41[44:48:51:55] sts for left front.

    Upper Back

    Work 77[85:91:99:105] sts for back in stocking st. Inc 1 st at both ends every alt row twice. Cast on 4 sts at both ends for armholes = 89[97:103:111:117] sts. Work 4 sts at both ends in garter st, work rest of the sts in stocking st. Work until armholes meas 2[3:3:3:4] cm.

    Inc row: Work 4 sts, M1, work until you have 4 sts left on your left hand needle, M1, work 4 sts. Rep increases in 3,5[3,5:4:4:4] cm intervals 3 times =97[105:111:119:125] sts. Work until armholes meas 18[19:20:20:21] cm.

    Shape Shoulders and Back Neck

    Cast off 3[3:4:4:4] sts at the beg of next 4 rows, 5[5:5:6:6] sts at the beg of next 4 rows, 6[7:7:7:8] sts at the beg of next 4 rows, 8[10:11:12:13] sts at the beg of next 2 rows. AT THE SAME TIME when upper back meas 22[23:24:24:25] cm: work 35[35:35:37:37] sts in the middle of back in garter st for 1 cm. Cast off 25[25:25:27:27] sts in the middle of back for neck. Work each side of neck separately.

    Upper Left Front

    Work 41[44:48:51:55] sts for left front. Work 5 sts at left end in garter st, work rest of sts in stocking st. Make increases at right end as for upper back.

    Shape Front Neck

    RS: Work until you have 7 sts left on your left hand needle, K2tog, work 5 sts. Rep dec every alt row 5(2)3(3)4 times and every 4th row 10(12)12(12)12 times. Work until armholes meas 2[3:3:3:4] cm.

    RS: Inc row: Work 4 sts, M1. Rep increases in 3,5[3,5:4:4:4] cm intervals 3 times. Work until armholes meas 18[19:20:20:21] cm.

    Shape Shoulder

    Cast off at right end every alt row 3[3:4:4:4] sts twice, 5[5:5:6:6] sts twice, 6[7:7:7:8] sts twice, 8[10:11:12:13] sts once.

    Mark buttonplacements with stitchmarkers as folls: top button: where front neck shaping starts. The rest of the buttons in 7 cm intervals below.

    Right Front

    Work as left front reversing all shapings. Use “sl1,K1,psso” decrease method in front neck decreases. Make buttonholes in intervals as you have marked on the left front:

    RS: work 3 sts, yrn,K2tog (to make a buttonhole), work to end of row.

    Making Up

    Flatten the pieces to the desired dimensions on an even surface, wrong side up. Wet with water spray, and allow to dry. Join both shoulder seams.

    Join side seams using back stitch or matress stitch if preferred. Sew on buttons.

    Finished dimensions
    Bust: 84[92:100:108:116] cm Length: 81[83:85:87:89] cm

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch pattern
    Lace pattern: See chart.
    Garter stitch: knit every row.
    Stocking stitch: knit on RS, purl on WS.
    Tension
    18 sts and 23 rows to 10 cm measured over stocking st
    19 sts to 10 cm measured over lace patt

    Stitch pattern

    Lace pattern: See chart.

    Garter stitch: knit every row.

    Stocking stitch: knit on RS, purl on WS.

    Tension

    18 sts and 23 rows to 10 cm measured over stocking st

    19 sts to 10 cm measured over lace patt

    Skirt

    Back and fronts of the skirt are worked in one piece until the armholes.

    Cast on 203[221:239:257:275] sts. Work in garter st for 3 rows. Beg and ending rows as indicated, cont in patt from chart as folls:

    Row 1: Work 2 sts as indicated in chart (from right end), repeat 18st patt 11[12:13:14:15] times, work 3 sts from left end in chart. Cont in patt and repeat rows 1-10. Work until skirt meas about 47[47:48:50:51] cm. End with row 10 of chart.

    Rows 11-13: Work 2 sts in garter st, repeat 18st patt 11(12)13(14)15 times, work 3 sts in garter st. 44[48:52:56:60] sts will be decreased during row 11 and row 13 = 159[173:187:201:215] sts. Cont in stocking st and work 5 sts at both ends in garter st. Work until skirt meas 57[58:59:62:63] cm. Divide the skirt into 3 pieces as folls: 41[44:48:51:55] sts for right front, 77[85:91:99:105] sts for back, 41[44:48:51:55] sts for left front.

    Upper Back

    Work 77[85:91:99:105] sts for back in stocking st. Inc 1 st at both ends every alt row twice. Cast on 4 sts at both ends for armholes = 89[97:103:111:117] sts. Work 4 sts at both ends in garter st, work rest of the sts in stocking st. Work until armholes meas 2[3:3:3:4] cm.

    Inc row: Work 4 sts, M1, work until you have 4 sts left on your left hand needle, M1, work 4 sts. Rep increases in 3,5[3,5:4:4:4] cm intervals 3 times =97[105:111:119:125] sts. Work until armholes meas 18[19:20:20:21] cm.

    Shape Shoulders and Back Neck

    Cast off 3[3:4:4:4] sts at the beg of next 4 rows, 5[5:5:6:6] sts at the beg of next 4 rows, 6[7:7:7:8] sts at the beg of next 4 rows, 8[10:11:12:13] sts at the beg of next 2 rows. AT THE SAME TIME when upper back meas 22[23:24:24:25] cm: work 35[35:35:37:37] sts in the middle of back in garter st for 1 cm. Cast off 25[25:25:27:27] sts in the middle of back for neck. Work each side of neck separately.

    Upper Left Front

    Work 41[44:48:51:55] sts for left front. Work 5 sts at left end in garter st, work rest of sts in stocking st. Make increases at right end as for upper back.

    Shape Front Neck

    RS: Work until you have 7 sts left on your left hand needle, K2tog, work 5 sts. Rep dec every alt row 5(2)3(3)4 times and every 4th row 10(12)12(12)12 times. Work until armholes meas 2[3:3:3:4] cm.

    RS: Inc row: Work 4 sts, M1. Rep increases in 3,5[3,5:4:4:4] cm intervals 3 times. Work until armholes meas 18[19:20:20:21] cm.

    Shape Shoulder

    Cast off at right end every alt row 3[3:4:4:4] sts twice, 5[5:5:6:6] sts twice, 6[7:7:7:8] sts twice, 8[10:11:12:13] sts once.

    Mark buttonplacements with stitchmarkers as folls: top button: where front neck shaping starts. The rest of the buttons in 7 cm intervals below.

    Right Front

    Work as left front reversing all shapings. Use “sl1,K1,psso” decrease method in front neck decreases. Make buttonholes in intervals as you have marked on the left front:

    RS: work 3 sts, yrn,K2tog (to make a buttonhole), work to end of row.

    Making Up

    Flatten the pieces to the desired dimensions on an even surface, wrong side up. Wet with water spray, and allow to dry. Join both shoulder seams.

    Join side seams using back stitch or matress stitch if preferred. Sew on buttons.


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Write Your Own Review
    Only registered users can write reviews. Please Sign in or create an account