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2x2 Rib
Row 1: *K2,P2, rep from * to last 2sts, K2
Row 2: P2, *K2,P2,rep from * to end.
Rep row 1 and 2.
Rib: Row 1:*K1,P1, rep from* to end. Row 2: *K1, P1, rep from * to end.
Stocking stitch: knit on RS, purl on WS.
16 sts and 20 rows to 10 cm measured over stocking st
Cast on 82[90:96:102:110:118] sts. Work in 2x2 rib 4 cm. Cont in stocking st. Work until back meas 13[14:14:15:15:16] cm. Dec 1 st at each end as folls:
RS: K2, sl1,K1,psso, work until you have 4 sts left on your left hand needle, K2tog, K2. Repeat decreases at each end in 7 cm intervals 6 times = 68[76:82:88:96:104] sts. Work until back meas 73[74:75:76:77:78] cm.
Cast off 3[3:4:4:4:4] sts at beg of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of foll alt rows 3(3)4(4)6(6) times = 56[64:66:72:76:84] sts. Work until armhole meas 17[18:19:20:20:21] cm.
Cast off tightly 24 sts in the middle of back for neck and work to end. Leave right side sts on a holder. Work each side of neck separately. Work 2 rows. Cast off 2 sts at neck edge. Work until armhole meas 19[20:21:22:22:23] cm. Cast off rem 14[18:19:22:24:28] sts. Rejoin yarn to sts on holder and work to end. Complete to match first side, reversing shapings.
Cast on 46[50:52:56:60:64] sts. Work in both ribs as folls:
WS: * K1,P1, rep from * 3 times, **K2,P2, rep from ** to end of row. Work until front meas 4 cm. Cont in stocking st and work 10 sts at left end (=front edge) in rib. Work until front meas 13[14:14:15:15:16] cm. Dec 1 st at right end as folls:
RS: K2, sl1,K1,psso, work row to end. Repeat decreases at each end in 7 cm intervals 6 times = 39[43:45:49:53:57] sts. Work until back meas 68[69:70:71:72:73] cm.
RS: Work the row until 12 sts remain on left hand needle., K2tog, work to end. Repeat front neck dec alternately every 4th and every other row 8(8)7(8)8(8) times.
AT THE SAME TIME when front meas 73[74:75:76:77:78] cm, shape armholes.
Cast off 3[3:4:4:4:4] sts at right end. Dec 1 st at right end of foll alt rows 3(3)4(4)6(6) times. Work until armhole meas 19[20:21:22:22:23] cm. Cast off 14[18:19:22:24:28] sts for shoulder =10sts. These sts form the buttonband. Cont in rib all sts until buttonband reaches (slightly pulled) half of back neck. Cast off.
Mark buttonplacements with stitchmarkers as folls: top button: where front neck shaping starts. The rest of the buttons in 9 cm intervals bellow.
Work as left front reversing all shapings. Use “sl1,K1,psso†decrease method in front neck decreases.
Make buttonholes in intervals as you have marked on the left front:
RS: work in rib 3sts, sl1,K1,psso, yrn(to make a buttonhole), work to end of row.
Cast on 42[46:46:46:48:48] sts. Work in 2x2 rib 4cm. Cont in stocking stitch.
Work until sleeve meas 12[10:10:10:11:10] cm. Inc 1 st at each end. Repeat increases in 7[7,5:6,5:5:5,5:4,5] cm intervals 4(4)5(7)6(8) times = 52[56:58:62:62:66] sts. Work until sleeve meas 47[48:49:50:50:51] cm.
Cast off 3[3:4:4:4:4] sts at beg of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next and every foll alt row 3(3)4(4)6(6) times. Cast off rem sts.
Flatten the pieces to the desired dimensions on an even surface, wrong side up. Wet with water spray, and allow to dry. Join both shoulder seams.
Join both buttonband seams (=back seam) using back stitch or matress stitch if preferred. Sew buttonband to back neck edge using back stitch or matress stitch if preferred.
Set in sleeves ( red attaching mark in pattern).
Join side seams and sleeve seams using back stitch or matress stitch if preferred. Sew on buttons.
Pockets are worked from top down.
Cast on 38 sts. Work in 2x2 rib 4 cm. Cont in stocking st and AT THE SAME TIME dec 4 sts evenly during the first row =34 sts. Work until pocket meas 20 cm. Cast off sts.
Sew on pockets to fronts as folls: 8[8:9:9:10:10] cm from front edge and 22[23:23:24:24:25] cm above hem.
2x2 Rib
Row 1: *K2,P2, rep from * to last 2sts, K2
Row 2: P2, *K2,P2,rep from * to end.
Rep row 1 and 2.
Rib: Row 1:*K1,P1, rep from* to end. Row 2: *K1, P1, rep from * to end.
Stocking stitch: knit on RS, purl on WS.
16 sts and 20 rows to 10 cm measured over stocking st
Cast on 82[90:96:102:110:118] sts. Work in 2x2 rib 4 cm. Cont in stocking st. Work until back meas 13[14:14:15:15:16] cm. Dec 1 st at each end as folls:
RS: K2, sl1,K1,psso, work until you have 4 sts left on your left hand needle, K2tog, K2. Repeat decreases at each end in 7 cm intervals 6 times = 68[76:82:88:96:104] sts. Work until back meas 73[74:75:76:77:78] cm.
Cast off 3[3:4:4:4:4] sts at beg of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of foll alt rows 3(3)4(4)6(6) times = 56[64:66:72:76:84] sts. Work until armhole meas 17[18:19:20:20:21] cm.
Cast off tightly 24 sts in the middle of back for neck and work to end. Leave right side sts on a holder. Work each side of neck separately. Work 2 rows. Cast off 2 sts at neck edge. Work until armhole meas 19[20:21:22:22:23] cm. Cast off rem 14[18:19:22:24:28] sts. Rejoin yarn to sts on holder and work to end. Complete to match first side, reversing shapings.
Cast on 46[50:52:56:60:64] sts. Work in both ribs as folls:
WS: * K1,P1, rep from * 3 times, **K2,P2, rep from ** to end of row. Work until front meas 4 cm. Cont in stocking st and work 10 sts at left end (=front edge) in rib. Work until front meas 13[14:14:15:15:16] cm. Dec 1 st at right end as folls:
RS: K2, sl1,K1,psso, work row to end. Repeat decreases at each end in 7 cm intervals 6 times = 39[43:45:49:53:57] sts. Work until back meas 68[69:70:71:72:73] cm.
RS: Work the row until 12 sts remain on left hand needle., K2tog, work to end. Repeat front neck dec alternately every 4th and every other row 8(8)7(8)8(8) times.
AT THE SAME TIME when front meas 73[74:75:76:77:78] cm, shape armholes.
Cast off 3[3:4:4:4:4] sts at right end. Dec 1 st at right end of foll alt rows 3(3)4(4)6(6) times. Work until armhole meas 19[20:21:22:22:23] cm. Cast off 14[18:19:22:24:28] sts for shoulder =10sts. These sts form the buttonband. Cont in rib all sts until buttonband reaches (slightly pulled) half of back neck. Cast off.
Mark buttonplacements with stitchmarkers as folls: top button: where front neck shaping starts. The rest of the buttons in 9 cm intervals bellow.
Work as left front reversing all shapings. Use “sl1,K1,psso†decrease method in front neck decreases.
Make buttonholes in intervals as you have marked on the left front:
RS: work in rib 3sts, sl1,K1,psso, yrn(to make a buttonhole), work to end of row.
Cast on 42[46:46:46:48:48] sts. Work in 2x2 rib 4cm. Cont in stocking stitch.
Work until sleeve meas 12[10:10:10:11:10] cm. Inc 1 st at each end. Repeat increases in 7[7,5:6,5:5:5,5:4,5] cm intervals 4(4)5(7)6(8) times = 52[56:58:62:62:66] sts. Work until sleeve meas 47[48:49:50:50:51] cm.
Cast off 3[3:4:4:4:4] sts at beg of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st at each end of next and every foll alt row 3(3)4(4)6(6) times. Cast off rem sts.
Flatten the pieces to the desired dimensions on an even surface, wrong side up. Wet with water spray, and allow to dry. Join both shoulder seams.
Join both buttonband seams (=back seam) using back stitch or matress stitch if preferred. Sew buttonband to back neck edge using back stitch or matress stitch if preferred.
Set in sleeves ( red attaching mark in pattern).
Join side seams and sleeve seams using back stitch or matress stitch if preferred. Sew on buttons.
Pockets are worked from top down.
Cast on 38 sts. Work in 2x2 rib 4 cm. Cont in stocking st and AT THE SAME TIME dec 4 sts evenly during the first row =34 sts. Work until pocket meas 20 cm. Cast off sts.
Sew on pockets to fronts as folls: 8[8:9:9:10:10] cm from front edge and 22[23:23:24:24:25] cm above hem.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.