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2x2 Rib
Row 1: *K2,P2, rep from * to last 2sts, K2
Row 2: P2, *K2,P2,rep from * to end.
Rep row 1 and 2.
Stocking stitch: knit on RS, purl on WS.
Pattern st: See chart.
22 sts to 10 cm measured over pattern st
Note: Back and fronts are worked in one piece to armholes.
Cast on 206[222:238:254:278:294] sts.
WS: P2, *K2,P2,rep from * to end. Work in rib 5 cm. Cont in stocking st. Work 2 rows and AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st during the first row = 207[223:239:255:279:295] sts.
Beg and ending rows as indicated, cont in patt from chart as folls:
Row 1: Work 1 st as indicated in chart (from right end), repeat 8st patt 25(27)29(31)34(36) times, work 6 sts from left end in chart. Cont in patt and repeat rows 1-12.
Work until piece meas about 18[19:19:20:20:21] cm. End with row 2 or row 8.
Next row: work 10[10:10:18:18:18] sts in patt, work 42 sts in stocking st for pocket, work 103[119:135:135:159:175] sts in patt, work 42 sts in stocking st for second pocket, work 10[10:10:18:18:18] sts in patt.
WS: purl 42 sts for pockets, work other sts in patt.
Next row: work 10[10:10:18:18:18] sts in patt, using waste yarn work 42 sts in stocking st for pocket, put these 42 sts back onto your left hand needle, work them with Alpaca Wool yarn in stocking st, work 103[119:135:135:159:175] sts in patt, using waste yarn work 42 sts in stocking st for pocket, put these 42 sts back onto your left hand needle, work them with Alpaca Wool yarn in stocking st, work 10[10:10:18:18:18] sts in patt.
WS: purl 42 sts for pockets, work other sts in patt.
Cont all sts in patt.
Work until piece meas 42[43:44:45:47:48] cm.
Divide the piece into 3 parts as folls:
RS: work 46[50:54:54:58:62] sts for right front, cast off 11[11:11:19:19:19] sts for armhole, work 93[101:109:109:125:133] sts for back, cast off 11[11:11:19:19:19] sts for armhole, work 46[50:54:54:58:62] sts for left front. Leave sts for right and left front on holders.
Cont working 93[101:109:109:125:133] sts for back in patt.
Work until armhole meas 16[17:18:19:19:20] cm.
Cast off tightly 31[31:31:31:33:33] sts in the middle of back for neck and work to end. Leave right side sts on a holder. Work each side of neck separately. Work 2 rows. Cast off 2 sts at neck edge. Work until armhole meas 18[19:20:21:21:22] cm. Cast off rem 29[33:37:37:44:48] sts. Rejoin yarn to sts on holder and work to end. Complete to match first side, reversing shapings.
Cont working 46[50:54:54:58:62] sts for right front in patt.
Work until armhole meas 9[10:11:12:12:13] cm.
Put 11[11:11:11:10:10] sts at right end on a holder. Cast off at right end every alt row 2 sts 2(2)2(2)1(1) times, 1 st twice. Work until armhole meas 18[19:20:21:21:22 ]cm. Cast off rem 29[33:37:37:44:48] sts.
Work as upper right front reversing all shapings.
Cast on 54[54:58:58:60:60] sts. Work in rib 5 cm. Cont in stocking st. Work 2 rows and AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st during the first row = 55[55:59:59:61:61] sts.
Beg and ending rows as indicated, cont in patt from chart as folls:
Row 1: Sleeve middle stitch is marked in chart with an arrow, count from there your starting st. Cont in patt and repeat rows 1-12.
Work until sleeve meas 8[11:6:9:11:7] cm. Inc 1 st at each end. Repeat increases in 3,5[2,5:3:2,5:2,5:2,5] cm intervals 9(12)12(14)13(15) times = 75[81:85:89:89:93] sts. Work increased sts in patt.
Work until sleeve meas 45,5[46,5:47,5:50:50:51] cm. Cast off sts.
Flatten the pieces to the desired dimensions on an even surface, wrong side up. Wet with water spray, and allow to dry. Join both shoulder seams.
Rejoin yarn to 11[11:11:11:10:10] sts from right front holder, pick up and knit 76[76:76:80:82:82]sts evenly from neck edge , work 11[11:11:11:10:10] sts from left front holder =98[98:98:102:102:102] sts.
WS: P2, *K2,P2,rep from * to end. Work in rib 3 cm. Cast off sts in rib.
Pick up and knit from left front edge (including collar edge) sts as folls: pick up and knit about 22 sts (number of sts has to be divisible by 4) to 10cm.
WS: P2, *K2,P2,rep from * to end. Work in rib 3 cm. Cast off sts in rib.
Mark buttonplacements with stitchmarkers as folls: top button: 1,5 cm under top edge, bottom button: 1,5 cm above hem. The rest of the buttons evenly in between.
Work as left front edge. Work 1,5 cm. Make buttonholes in intervals as you have marked on the left front edge: K2tog,yrn (to make a buttonhole).
Unravel waste yarn and AT THE SAME TIME pick up sts from top and bottom edge to form a pocket opening. Work bottom edge sts as folls:
RS: K3, *P2, K2, rep from * to last 3 sts, K3. Work in rib 3 cm. Cast off sts in rib. Sew side edges of rib onto front.
Work top edge sts as folls: work sts for inside pocket in stocking st until pocket reaches top of the rib on hem. Sew pocket onto front from WS.
Join side seams and sleeve seams using back stitch or matress stitch if preferred. Set in sleeves ( red attaching mark in pattern). Sew on buttons.
2x2 Rib
Row 1: *K2,P2, rep from * to last 2sts, K2
Row 2: P2, *K2,P2,rep from * to end.
Rep row 1 and 2.
Stocking stitch: knit on RS, purl on WS.
Pattern st: See chart.
22 sts to 10 cm measured over pattern st
Note: Back and fronts are worked in one piece to armholes.
Cast on 206[222:238:254:278:294] sts.
WS: P2, *K2,P2,rep from * to end. Work in rib 5 cm. Cont in stocking st. Work 2 rows and AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st during the first row = 207[223:239:255:279:295] sts.
Beg and ending rows as indicated, cont in patt from chart as folls:
Row 1: Work 1 st as indicated in chart (from right end), repeat 8st patt 25(27)29(31)34(36) times, work 6 sts from left end in chart. Cont in patt and repeat rows 1-12.
Work until piece meas about 18[19:19:20:20:21] cm. End with row 2 or row 8.
Next row: work 10[10:10:18:18:18] sts in patt, work 42 sts in stocking st for pocket, work 103[119:135:135:159:175] sts in patt, work 42 sts in stocking st for second pocket, work 10[10:10:18:18:18] sts in patt.
WS: purl 42 sts for pockets, work other sts in patt.
Next row: work 10[10:10:18:18:18] sts in patt, using waste yarn work 42 sts in stocking st for pocket, put these 42 sts back onto your left hand needle, work them with Alpaca Wool yarn in stocking st, work 103[119:135:135:159:175] sts in patt, using waste yarn work 42 sts in stocking st for pocket, put these 42 sts back onto your left hand needle, work them with Alpaca Wool yarn in stocking st, work 10[10:10:18:18:18] sts in patt.
WS: purl 42 sts for pockets, work other sts in patt.
Cont all sts in patt.
Work until piece meas 42[43:44:45:47:48] cm.
Divide the piece into 3 parts as folls:
RS: work 46[50:54:54:58:62] sts for right front, cast off 11[11:11:19:19:19] sts for armhole, work 93[101:109:109:125:133] sts for back, cast off 11[11:11:19:19:19] sts for armhole, work 46[50:54:54:58:62] sts for left front. Leave sts for right and left front on holders.
Cont working 93[101:109:109:125:133] sts for back in patt.
Work until armhole meas 16[17:18:19:19:20] cm.
Cast off tightly 31[31:31:31:33:33] sts in the middle of back for neck and work to end. Leave right side sts on a holder. Work each side of neck separately. Work 2 rows. Cast off 2 sts at neck edge. Work until armhole meas 18[19:20:21:21:22] cm. Cast off rem 29[33:37:37:44:48] sts. Rejoin yarn to sts on holder and work to end. Complete to match first side, reversing shapings.
Cont working 46[50:54:54:58:62] sts for right front in patt.
Work until armhole meas 9[10:11:12:12:13] cm.
Put 11[11:11:11:10:10] sts at right end on a holder. Cast off at right end every alt row 2 sts 2(2)2(2)1(1) times, 1 st twice. Work until armhole meas 18[19:20:21:21:22 ]cm. Cast off rem 29[33:37:37:44:48] sts.
Work as upper right front reversing all shapings.
Cast on 54[54:58:58:60:60] sts. Work in rib 5 cm. Cont in stocking st. Work 2 rows and AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st during the first row = 55[55:59:59:61:61] sts.
Beg and ending rows as indicated, cont in patt from chart as folls:
Row 1: Sleeve middle stitch is marked in chart with an arrow, count from there your starting st. Cont in patt and repeat rows 1-12.
Work until sleeve meas 8[11:6:9:11:7] cm. Inc 1 st at each end. Repeat increases in 3,5[2,5:3:2,5:2,5:2,5] cm intervals 9(12)12(14)13(15) times = 75[81:85:89:89:93] sts. Work increased sts in patt.
Work until sleeve meas 45,5[46,5:47,5:50:50:51] cm. Cast off sts.
Flatten the pieces to the desired dimensions on an even surface, wrong side up. Wet with water spray, and allow to dry. Join both shoulder seams.
Rejoin yarn to 11[11:11:11:10:10] sts from right front holder, pick up and knit 76[76:76:80:82:82]sts evenly from neck edge , work 11[11:11:11:10:10] sts from left front holder =98[98:98:102:102:102] sts.
WS: P2, *K2,P2,rep from * to end. Work in rib 3 cm. Cast off sts in rib.
Pick up and knit from left front edge (including collar edge) sts as folls: pick up and knit about 22 sts (number of sts has to be divisible by 4) to 10cm.
WS: P2, *K2,P2,rep from * to end. Work in rib 3 cm. Cast off sts in rib.
Mark buttonplacements with stitchmarkers as folls: top button: 1,5 cm under top edge, bottom button: 1,5 cm above hem. The rest of the buttons evenly in between.
Work as left front edge. Work 1,5 cm. Make buttonholes in intervals as you have marked on the left front edge: K2tog,yrn (to make a buttonhole).
Unravel waste yarn and AT THE SAME TIME pick up sts from top and bottom edge to form a pocket opening. Work bottom edge sts as folls:
RS: K3, *P2, K2, rep from * to last 3 sts, K3. Work in rib 3 cm. Cast off sts in rib. Sew side edges of rib onto front.
Work top edge sts as folls: work sts for inside pocket in stocking st until pocket reaches top of the rib on hem. Sew pocket onto front from WS.
Join side seams and sleeve seams using back stitch or matress stitch if preferred. Set in sleeves ( red attaching mark in pattern). Sew on buttons.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.