Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
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Garter stitsch: knit every row.
Cable pattern: See chart.
Seed stitch:
Row 1: *K1,P1, rep from* to end.
Row 2: *P1, K1, rep from * to end.
17 sts and 32 rows to 10 cm measured over seed stitch patt.
Yoke is worked sideways from left front edge to right front edge.
Cast on 38sts. Work in garter st 8 rows.
Next row (WS): Purl 1 row and AT THE SAME TIME increase evenly 6sts =44sts.
Next row(RS):Beg and ending rows as indicated, cont in patt from chart I. as folls:
Start with row 13.[13.:1.:1.] of chart I. Cont in patt. After you have completed row 16.[16.:2.:2.], start shortened rows as indicated in chart (= When working row 17.[17.:3.:3.] you have 7sts left on your left hand needle, turn and work row 18.[18.:4.:4.] as indicated in chart).
Work rows 13.[13.:1.:1.] to row 44., then rep rows 13.-44. 3 times and rows 13.-28 once. Then work rows 45.-56., then rep rows 13.-44. 4 times and then work rows 13.[25.:25.:37]. Next row (WS): Purl 1 row and AT THE SAME TIME decrease evenly 6sts =38sts.
Work 2 rows in garter stitch.
Next row (RS): make 3 buttonholes as indicated: K3, yrn,work 2 tog(to make a buttonhole), K13, yrn,work 2 tog(to make a buttonhole), K13, yrn,work 2 tog(to make a buttonhole), K3. Work 5 rows in garter st and then cast off all sts.
(WS):Pick up and knit from yoke`s bottom edge 187[197:205:213] sts, buttonholes are on the right side of the yoke(=right front).
(RS):Beg and ending rows as indicated, cont in patt from chart II. as folls:
Row 1: Work 5sts in garter st, work 6sts patt from chart II., work 165[175:183:191]sts in seed st, work 6sts patt from chart II.,Work 5sts in garter st. Cont in patt and repeat rows 1.-8.
Work 2[2:2:4]rows and divide sts as foll: Right front: 30[32:34:36] sts, sleeve: 36[38:38:39] sts, back: 55[57:61:63] sts, sleeve: 36[38:38:39] sts, left front: 30[32:34:36] sts.
Cont in patt as indicated with 30[32:34:36] sts of right front. Make increases for armholes on right side every other row as foll: inc 1 st 2(3)3(4) times, inc 3[3:5:6] sts once = 35[38:42:46] sts. Leave sts on holder awaiting for hem.
Cont in patt as indicated with 30[32:34:36] sts of left front. Make increases for armholes on left side every other row as foll: inc 1 st 2(3)3(4) times, inc 3[3:5:6] sts once = 35[38:42:46] sts. Leave sts on a holder awaiting for hem.
Cont in patt as indicated with 55[57:61:63] sts of back. Make increases for armholes on both sides every other row as foll: inc 1 st 2(3)3(4) times, inc 3[3:5:6] sts once = 65[69:77:83] sts. Leave sts on holder awaiting for hem.
Using 80cm long circular needles pick up 35[38:42:46] sts from left front holder, place marker, pick up 65[69:77:83] sts from back holder, place marker, pick up 35[38:42:46] sts from right front holder = 135[145:161:175] sts. Cont in patt as indicated taking care that seed st patt continues intact (if needed decrease 1 st in armhole to keep seed st patt correct). Make buttonholes (= yrn,work 2 tog) on right edge of right front in same intervals as made in yoke.
Work with all sts until piece meas 4[5:5:6] cm (measured from armhole bottom edge). Dec 1 st on both markers both sides keeping seed st patt correct = 131[141:157:171] sts. Work until piece meas 16[17:17:18] cm (measured from armhole bottom edge). Inc 1 st on both markers both sides keeping seed st patt correct = 135[145:161:175] sts.
Work until piece meas about 23[24:26:27] cm (measured from armhole bottom edge) and you have finished 4.row from cable patt chart. Dec 1 st on cable sides as foll:
Row 5. of chart II.: work 5 sts in garter st, work 5 sts from row.5.of chart II., sl1,K1,psso, work until you have 12 sts left on your left hand needle: K2tog, work 5 sts from row.5.of chart II., work 5 sts in garter st. Work 1 row.
Next row (RS-7.row of cable chart): Dec 2 st on cable sides as foll: work 5 sts in garter st, work 5 sts from row.7.of chart II., sl1,K2tog,psso, work until you have 13 sts left on your left hand needle: K3tog, work 5 sts from row.7.of chart II., work 5 sts in garter st.
Work short rows as foll:
Left edge (WS): work 5sts in garter st, work 5 sts in patt(=chart II), P2tog (=11sts). Turn.
(RS): Work 6sts in patt, work 5sts in garter st.,rep from* until you have decreased half of hem`s sts and you are in the middle of the back. Leave sts on a holder.
Right edge: Pick up 11sts from right edge onto a needle and work WS first as foll: *Work 6sts in patt, work 5sts in garter st. Turn.
(RS): work 5sts in garter st, work 5 sts in patt(=chart II), sl1,K1,psso, rep from * until you have decreased half of hem`s sts and you are in the middle of the back. Join hem`s edge seams using back stitch or matress stitch if preferred.
Pick up from holder 36[38:38:39] sts for sleeve. Work in seed st and make increases on both sides every other row as foll: inc 1 st 2(3)3(4) times, inc 4[4:6:7] sts once = 48[52:56:61] sts. Work in patt until sleeve meas 3cm (measured from armhole bottom edge). Dec 1 st on both sides in 3[3:4:4] cm intervals 3 times =42[46:50:55] sts.
Work in patt until sleeve meas 43[44:45:46]cm (measured from armhole bottom edge).
(RS): Make decreases as foll: *K1, K2tog, rep from* until the end of row = 28[31:34:37] sts. Work in garter st 4 rows. Cast off sts loosely. Knit other sleeve alike.
Flatten the cardigan to the desired dimensions on an even surface, wrong side up. Wet with water spray, and allow to dry. Join sleeve seams and armpit seams using back stitch or matress stitch if preferred.
Garter stitsch: knit every row.
Cable pattern: See chart.
Seed stitch:
Row 1: *K1,P1, rep from* to end.
Row 2: *P1, K1, rep from * to end.
17 sts and 32 rows to 10 cm measured over seed stitch patt.
Yoke is worked sideways from left front edge to right front edge.
Cast on 38sts. Work in garter st 8 rows.
Next row (WS): Purl 1 row and AT THE SAME TIME increase evenly 6sts =44sts.
Next row(RS):Beg and ending rows as indicated, cont in patt from chart I. as folls:
Start with row 13.[13.:1.:1.] of chart I. Cont in patt. After you have completed row 16.[16.:2.:2.], start shortened rows as indicated in chart (= When working row 17.[17.:3.:3.] you have 7sts left on your left hand needle, turn and work row 18.[18.:4.:4.] as indicated in chart).
Work rows 13.[13.:1.:1.] to row 44., then rep rows 13.-44. 3 times and rows 13.-28 once. Then work rows 45.-56., then rep rows 13.-44. 4 times and then work rows 13.[25.:25.:37]. Next row (WS): Purl 1 row and AT THE SAME TIME decrease evenly 6sts =38sts.
Work 2 rows in garter stitch.
Next row (RS): make 3 buttonholes as indicated: K3, yrn,work 2 tog(to make a buttonhole), K13, yrn,work 2 tog(to make a buttonhole), K13, yrn,work 2 tog(to make a buttonhole), K3. Work 5 rows in garter st and then cast off all sts.
(WS):Pick up and knit from yoke`s bottom edge 187[197:205:213] sts, buttonholes are on the right side of the yoke(=right front).
(RS):Beg and ending rows as indicated, cont in patt from chart II. as folls:
Row 1: Work 5sts in garter st, work 6sts patt from chart II., work 165[175:183:191]sts in seed st, work 6sts patt from chart II.,Work 5sts in garter st. Cont in patt and repeat rows 1.-8.
Work 2[2:2:4]rows and divide sts as foll: Right front: 30[32:34:36] sts, sleeve: 36[38:38:39] sts, back: 55[57:61:63] sts, sleeve: 36[38:38:39] sts, left front: 30[32:34:36] sts.
Cont in patt as indicated with 30[32:34:36] sts of right front. Make increases for armholes on right side every other row as foll: inc 1 st 2(3)3(4) times, inc 3[3:5:6] sts once = 35[38:42:46] sts. Leave sts on holder awaiting for hem.
Cont in patt as indicated with 30[32:34:36] sts of left front. Make increases for armholes on left side every other row as foll: inc 1 st 2(3)3(4) times, inc 3[3:5:6] sts once = 35[38:42:46] sts. Leave sts on a holder awaiting for hem.
Cont in patt as indicated with 55[57:61:63] sts of back. Make increases for armholes on both sides every other row as foll: inc 1 st 2(3)3(4) times, inc 3[3:5:6] sts once = 65[69:77:83] sts. Leave sts on holder awaiting for hem.
Using 80cm long circular needles pick up 35[38:42:46] sts from left front holder, place marker, pick up 65[69:77:83] sts from back holder, place marker, pick up 35[38:42:46] sts from right front holder = 135[145:161:175] sts. Cont in patt as indicated taking care that seed st patt continues intact (if needed decrease 1 st in armhole to keep seed st patt correct). Make buttonholes (= yrn,work 2 tog) on right edge of right front in same intervals as made in yoke.
Work with all sts until piece meas 4[5:5:6] cm (measured from armhole bottom edge). Dec 1 st on both markers both sides keeping seed st patt correct = 131[141:157:171] sts. Work until piece meas 16[17:17:18] cm (measured from armhole bottom edge). Inc 1 st on both markers both sides keeping seed st patt correct = 135[145:161:175] sts.
Work until piece meas about 23[24:26:27] cm (measured from armhole bottom edge) and you have finished 4.row from cable patt chart. Dec 1 st on cable sides as foll:
Row 5. of chart II.: work 5 sts in garter st, work 5 sts from row.5.of chart II., sl1,K1,psso, work until you have 12 sts left on your left hand needle: K2tog, work 5 sts from row.5.of chart II., work 5 sts in garter st. Work 1 row.
Next row (RS-7.row of cable chart): Dec 2 st on cable sides as foll: work 5 sts in garter st, work 5 sts from row.7.of chart II., sl1,K2tog,psso, work until you have 13 sts left on your left hand needle: K3tog, work 5 sts from row.7.of chart II., work 5 sts in garter st.
Work short rows as foll:
Left edge (WS): work 5sts in garter st, work 5 sts in patt(=chart II), P2tog (=11sts). Turn.
(RS): Work 6sts in patt, work 5sts in garter st.,rep from* until you have decreased half of hem`s sts and you are in the middle of the back. Leave sts on a holder.
Right edge: Pick up 11sts from right edge onto a needle and work WS first as foll: *Work 6sts in patt, work 5sts in garter st. Turn.
(RS): work 5sts in garter st, work 5 sts in patt(=chart II), sl1,K1,psso, rep from * until you have decreased half of hem`s sts and you are in the middle of the back. Join hem`s edge seams using back stitch or matress stitch if preferred.
Pick up from holder 36[38:38:39] sts for sleeve. Work in seed st and make increases on both sides every other row as foll: inc 1 st 2(3)3(4) times, inc 4[4:6:7] sts once = 48[52:56:61] sts. Work in patt until sleeve meas 3cm (measured from armhole bottom edge). Dec 1 st on both sides in 3[3:4:4] cm intervals 3 times =42[46:50:55] sts.
Work in patt until sleeve meas 43[44:45:46]cm (measured from armhole bottom edge).
(RS): Make decreases as foll: *K1, K2tog, rep from* until the end of row = 28[31:34:37] sts. Work in garter st 4 rows. Cast off sts loosely. Knit other sleeve alike.
Flatten the cardigan to the desired dimensions on an even surface, wrong side up. Wet with water spray, and allow to dry. Join sleeve seams and armpit seams using back stitch or matress stitch if preferred.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.