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Watermelon socks Novita Muumitalo

Watermelon socks Novita Muumitalo

As low as €1.90

Who loves water melons? We do! And water melon socks - what’s not to love? These fun socks designed by Minna Metsänen will bring a smile to your face while you’re knitting - and every time you look down at your feet.
Magazine Novita Kesä 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 39
Skill level Intermediate
Watermelon socks Novita Muumitalo
€7.50
€7.50
€7.50
€7.50
Novita Finishing Needle 2 pcs
€1.90

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Watermelon socks Novita Muumitalo
Watermelon socks Novita Muumitalo

In stock

€1.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N022039
    Pattern details
    Size
    36(38)40

    Yarn demand
    Novita Muumitalo
    (583) Little My <100(100)100 g
    (381) Snufkin <50(50)50 g
    (099) Stinky <50(50)50 g and
    some (007) Moomintroll
     


    Needles and other supplies
    Double-pointed needles
    Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) or size needed to obtain gauge.


    Designer
    Minna Metsänen

    Details
    Using the Snufkin yarn cast on 60(64)68 sts and divide them onto four needles, 15(16)17 sts each. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Work twisted ribbing in the round for 10 rounds. Knit 1 round.
     
    Join Stinky and knit 1 round. Join Moomintroll and knit 2 rounds.
     
    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart I(II)III. Repeat the 15(16)17 st pattern 4 times. Work rows 2–12 of the chart. The seeds and rinds are embroidered on the finished sock using duplicate stitches.
     
    Knit 2 rounds using Moomintroll and 1 round using Stinky.
     
    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart IV. Repeat the 4 st pattern 15(16)17 times. Work rows 2–10 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–10.
     
    When the leg measures approx. 16(18)18 cm and you have last worked one Little My row, break yarn.
     
    Begin the heel flap: move the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 30(32)34 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Join Snufkin. Turn work, slip 1 with yarn in back and purl to end, evenly decreasing 4 sts = 26(28)30 sts.
     
    Turn work and begin the reinforced stitch pattern:
     
    Row 1: *slip 1, k1*, repeat *–* 12(13)14 more times. Turn work.
     
    Row 2: slip 1, purl to end. Turn work.
     
    Work rows 1–2 13(14)15 times in total [= 26(28)30 rows].
     
    Begin turning the heel. Continue the reinforced pattern as established. Work RS row until 9(10)11 sts remain. Skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), turn work. Slip 1, p8, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work to last 8(9)10 sts, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 10 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide them onto two needles, 5 sts each. Break Snufkin and join Little My.
     
    Using needle I pick up 13(14)15 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. Knit the 5 heel flap sts and knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Pick up 13(14)15 sts from the right end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and knit the 5 flap sts onto needle IV.
     
    With these 68(72)76 sts work stockinette st and begin gusset decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog; at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Repeat the decreases every other round until 52(56)60 sts remain. Redistribute the sts, 13(14)15 sts per needle.
     
    Note: When you have worked 2 rounds with Little My after the heel, resume the colourwork pattern on either row 1 or 6 of chart IV, making sure to maintain the pattern on needles II and III (instep). On needle I begin at the edge of the chart and work the 4 st pattern as needed to end of needle. On needle IV determine where to start so that the pattern continues on needle I. When you have decreased the extra sts, the pattern continues without breaking.
     
    Work until the sole measures 18(19)20 cm and you have last worked at least 1 round with Little My.
     
    Begin the toe decreases with 6 rounds of Moomintroll, then use Snufkin for the rest of the piece.
     
    Begin toe decreases: At the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Decrease as established on every other round until 7(8)9 sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round.
     
    When 8 sts remain, break yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.
     
    Knit the other sock in the same manner.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Following the charts, embroider the details on the leg with Snufkin and Stinky.  
     
    Lightly steam the socks.
    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    vartalon ympärys noin 80(88)96(104)114(124) cm
    puseron pituus takakappaleella 56(58)60(62)64(66) cm
    pituus etukappaleella 52(54)56(58)60(62) cm
    hihan sisäpituus 47(48)49(50)50(51) cm

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Twisted ribbing in the round: *k1 through back loop, p1*, repeat *–*.
    - Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.
    - Colourwork in the round: work stockinette st following the chart and instructions.
     
    Gauge 25 sts in colourwork = 10 cm / 4 in
     
    Note
    Twist the yarns around each other on the WS (at different points on back-to-back rows) to avoid floats longer than 5 sts.


    Using the Snufkin yarn cast on 60(64)68 sts and divide them onto four needles, 15(16)17 sts each. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Work twisted ribbing in the round for 10 rounds. Knit 1 round.
     
    Join Stinky and knit 1 round. Join Moomintroll and knit 2 rounds.
     
    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart I(II)III. Repeat the 15(16)17 st pattern 4 times. Work rows 2–12 of the chart. The seeds and rinds are embroidered on the finished sock using duplicate stitches.
     
    Knit 2 rounds using Moomintroll and 1 round using Stinky.
     
    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart IV. Repeat the 4 st pattern 15(16)17 times. Work rows 2–10 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–10.
     
    When the leg measures approx. 16(18)18 cm and you have last worked one Little My row, break yarn.
     
    Begin the heel flap: move the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 30(32)34 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Join Snufkin. Turn work, slip 1 with yarn in back and purl to end, evenly decreasing 4 sts = 26(28)30 sts.
     
    Turn work and begin the reinforced stitch pattern:
     
    Row 1: *slip 1, k1*, repeat *–* 12(13)14 more times. Turn work.
     
    Row 2: slip 1, purl to end. Turn work.
     
    Work rows 1–2 13(14)15 times in total [= 26(28)30 rows].
     
    Begin turning the heel. Continue the reinforced pattern as established. Work RS row until 9(10)11 sts remain. Skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), turn work. Slip 1, p8, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work to last 8(9)10 sts, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 10 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide them onto two needles, 5 sts each. Break Snufkin and join Little My.
     
    Using needle I pick up 13(14)15 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. Knit the 5 heel flap sts and knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Pick up 13(14)15 sts from the right end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and knit the 5 flap sts onto needle IV.
     
    With these 68(72)76 sts work stockinette st and begin gusset decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog; at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Repeat the decreases every other round until 52(56)60 sts remain. Redistribute the sts, 13(14)15 sts per needle.
     
    Note: When you have worked 2 rounds with Little My after the heel, resume the colourwork pattern on either row 1 or 6 of chart IV, making sure to maintain the pattern on needles II and III (instep). On needle I begin at the edge of the chart and work the 4 st pattern as needed to end of needle. On needle IV determine where to start so that the pattern continues on needle I. When you have decreased the extra sts, the pattern continues without breaking.
     
    Work until the sole measures 18(19)20 cm and you have last worked at least 1 round with Little My.
     
    Begin the toe decreases with 6 rounds of Moomintroll, then use Snufkin for the rest of the piece.
     
    Begin toe decreases: At the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Decrease as established on every other round until 7(8)9 sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round.
     
    When 8 sts remain, break yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.
     
    Knit the other sock in the same manner.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Following the charts, embroider the details on the leg with Snufkin and Stinky.  
     
    Lightly steam the socks.

    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Here you find size guides for your knitting projects!




     
     




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