Villasukat Hehku Novita Nalle

As low as €5.95

Novita Sukkalehti 2015 (in Finnish)
17
Intermediate
Customize Villasukat Hehku Novita Nalle

* Required Fields

Your Customization

    €5.95

    - +

    Availability: In stock

    SUK1517
    Size
    38/39

    Yarn demand
    Novita Nalle (549) punainen 100 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Sukkapuikot Novita nro 3 tai käsialan mukaan sekä virkkuukoukku nro 3

    Designer
    Sisko Sälpäkivi

    Stitch pattern

    Stocking stitch in round: knit all rows.

    Lace pattern in round: See chart.

    Rib in round: *K2,P2, rep from* to end.

    Tension

    25 sts to 10 cm measured over stocking st

    Socks (both alike)

    Socks are worked from toe up. Ch10. Using crochet hook pick up 10 sts onto double poited needle from one edge of the chain and 10 sts onto 2nd double poited needle from another edge of the chain =20 sts. Distribute sts evenly over 4 of the 5 needles ( 5 sts on each needle) and using 5th needle, work in rounds as follows: Work 1 rnd in stocking st in round. Place stichmarkers around 1st sts of needle I. and III. Start increases as folls: M1 (=make one stitch by picking up horizontal loop before next stitch and knitting into back of it), on both sides of both marked sts =24 sts. Rep increases every alr rnd until the amount of sts is 56 (= 14 sts on each needle).

    Knit 1 rnd.

    Put last st of needle II. onto needle III. ( 27 sts on needle I. and II.). Beg and ending rnds as indicated, cont in lace patt from chart I. as folls:

    Rnd 1: Needle I. and II.: work 27 st patt from chart I.,

    Needle III. and IV.: K29.

    Work 27 sts of needle I. and II. in patt from chart I., rep rnds 1-40 and work 29 sts on needle III. and IV. in stocking st in round.

    Work until foot meas 15 cm. Inc 1 st at beg of needle III. and 1 st at end of needle IV. Rep increases every 3rd rnd 3 times = 64 sts. Work until foot meas 19 cm.

    Shape Heel (Short Row Heel)

    Work sts to end of needle IV. Turn.

    WS: Sl1 purlwise, tighten yarn at the back of work so that last st from row bellow will rise onto needle =double st (to prevent from forming a hole), purl to end of needle III. Turn.

    RS: Sl1 purlwise in same method as before =double st, work to double st of row below. Turn.

    Cont working short rows and always turn before previous double st on the needle. Work until you have 12 sts in the middle. Work 1 rnd with all sts. Work until the middle of the heel. Note: double st is always knitted tog = 1 st.

    Start working long rows as folls: Needle IV.: K6, turn.

    WS: Sl1 purlwise, tighten yarn at the back of work so that last st from row bellow will rise onto needle =double st, P5 of needle IV., P6 of needle III. Turn.

    RS: Sl1 purlwise, tighten yarn at the back of work so that last st from row bellow will rise onto needle =double st, K10, K double st tog, K1. Turn.

    WS: Sl1 purlwise, tighten yarn at the back of work so that last st from row bellow will rise onto needle =double st, P11, P double st tog, P1. Turn.

    RS: Sl1 purlwise, tighten yarn at the back of work so that last st from row bellow will rise onto needle =double st, K12, K double st tog, K1. Turn.

    Cont as given until all double sts have been worked. Cont working in round.

    Leg

    Dec rnd: Needle I. and II.: cont in 27 st patt from chart I.,

    Needle III. : K2togtbl (=through back loops), knit to end of needle III.,

    Needle IV.: knit to last 2 sts, K2tog.

    Rep dec rnd every rnd 3 times and rep dec on needle III. only once more during next rnd = 57 sts.

    Work 27 sts of needle I. and II. in patt from chart I. and work sts on needle III. and IV. in rib in round until you have worked rnds 1-40 for second time.

    Cont 27 sts of needle I. and II. in patt from chart I., work rnds 1-40 (3rd time) and work sts on needle III. and IV. in lace patt from chart II. as folls:

    Needle III. and IV.: Work 1 st as indicated in chart (from right end), rep 2st patt 14 times, work 1 st from left end in chart. Cont in patt and work rnds 1-40.

    Cont in rib in round with all sts as folls:

    Rnd 1: P2, *K2,P2, rep from* to end and AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st = 56 sts. Work in rib in round 2 cm. Cast off sts in rib.

    To Make Up

    Lightly steam the socks.

    Finished dimensions


    Stitch patterns & gauge


    Stitch pattern

    Stocking stitch in round: knit all rows.

    Lace pattern in round: See chart.

    Rib in round: *K2,P2, rep from* to end.

    Tension

    25 sts to 10 cm measured over stocking st

    Socks (both alike)

    Socks are worked from toe up. Ch10. Using crochet hook pick up 10 sts onto double poited needle from one edge of the chain and 10 sts onto 2nd double poited needle from another edge of the chain =20 sts. Distribute sts evenly over 4 of the 5 needles ( 5 sts on each needle) and using 5th needle, work in rounds as follows: Work 1 rnd in stocking st in round. Place stichmarkers around 1st sts of needle I. and III. Start increases as folls: M1 (=make one stitch by picking up horizontal loop before next stitch and knitting into back of it), on both sides of both marked sts =24 sts. Rep increases every alr rnd until the amount of sts is 56 (= 14 sts on each needle).

    Knit 1 rnd.

    Put last st of needle II. onto needle III. ( 27 sts on needle I. and II.). Beg and ending rnds as indicated, cont in lace patt from chart I. as folls:

    Rnd 1: Needle I. and II.: work 27 st patt from chart I.,

    Needle III. and IV.: K29.

    Work 27 sts of needle I. and II. in patt from chart I., rep rnds 1-40 and work 29 sts on needle III. and IV. in stocking st in round.

    Work until foot meas 15 cm. Inc 1 st at beg of needle III. and 1 st at end of needle IV. Rep increases every 3rd rnd 3 times = 64 sts. Work until foot meas 19 cm.

    Shape Heel (Short Row Heel)

    Work sts to end of needle IV. Turn.

    WS: Sl1 purlwise, tighten yarn at the back of work so that last st from row bellow will rise onto needle =double st (to prevent from forming a hole), purl to end of needle III. Turn.

    RS: Sl1 purlwise in same method as before =double st, work to double st of row below. Turn.

    Cont working short rows and always turn before previous double st on the needle. Work until you have 12 sts in the middle. Work 1 rnd with all sts. Work until the middle of the heel. Note: double st is always knitted tog = 1 st.

    Start working long rows as folls: Needle IV.: K6, turn.

    WS: Sl1 purlwise, tighten yarn at the back of work so that last st from row bellow will rise onto needle =double st, P5 of needle IV., P6 of needle III. Turn.

    RS: Sl1 purlwise, tighten yarn at the back of work so that last st from row bellow will rise onto needle =double st, K10, K double st tog, K1. Turn.

    WS: Sl1 purlwise, tighten yarn at the back of work so that last st from row bellow will rise onto needle =double st, P11, P double st tog, P1. Turn.

    RS: Sl1 purlwise, tighten yarn at the back of work so that last st from row bellow will rise onto needle =double st, K12, K double st tog, K1. Turn.

    Cont as given until all double sts have been worked. Cont working in round.

    Leg

    Dec rnd: Needle I. and II.: cont in 27 st patt from chart I.,

    Needle III. : K2togtbl (=through back loops), knit to end of needle III.,

    Needle IV.: knit to last 2 sts, K2tog.

    Rep dec rnd every rnd 3 times and rep dec on needle III. only once more during next rnd = 57 sts.

    Work 27 sts of needle I. and II. in patt from chart I. and work sts on needle III. and IV. in rib in round until you have worked rnds 1-40 for second time.

    Cont 27 sts of needle I. and II. in patt from chart I., work rnds 1-40 (3rd time) and work sts on needle III. and IV. in lace patt from chart II. as folls:

    Needle III. and IV.: Work 1 st as indicated in chart (from right end), rep 2st patt 14 times, work 1 st from left end in chart. Cont in patt and work rnds 1-40.

    Cont in rib in round with all sts as folls:

    Rnd 1: P2, *K2,P2, rep from* to end and AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st = 56 sts. Work in rib in round 2 cm. Cast off sts in rib.

    To Make Up

    Lightly steam the socks.


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Write Your Own Review
    Only registered users can write reviews. Please Sign in or create an account