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One pattern, five different pairs of mittens! These mittens, designed by Ronja Södersved and knitted from Novita 7 Veljestä, come with five different cable pattern options. Choose your favourite version, or knit the whole series and give them as gifts to all the women in the family!
Availability: In stock
Novita 7 Veljestä 100 g
(102) Scilla (for cable pattern A); (060) Sand (B); (691) Peat (C);
(039) Straw (D); (010) Off White (E).
Double-pointed needles Novita 3.5 mm (US 4) or size needed for gauge; cable needle.
Left mitten
Cast on 44 sts and divide them onto four needles, 11 sts each. Work twisted ribbing in the round for 3 cm. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV.
Choose a cable pattern (A, B, C, D or E) and work row 1 of the chart: on needles I and II (palm), work twisted ribbing; on needles III and IV, work the 22 st cable pattern. Charts A and E: work rows 2–8, then keep repeating rows 1–8. Chart B: work rows 2–24, then keep repeating rows 1–24. Chart C: work rows 2–6, then keep repeating rows 1–6. Chart D: work rows 2–12, then keep repeating rows 1–12.
When the mitten measures 9 cm, switch to working needles I and II in stockinette st; on needles III and IV, keep working the cable pattern.
Work for 2 rounds. On the next round, begin increases for the thumb gusset on needle II as follows: work to last 4 sts on needle II, increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k2, increase 1, k2, work to end. Repeat the increases on every 3rd round 5 more times. 2 sts increased each time. After completing the increases, work 1 round even and then work next round to beginning of gusset. Leave the 14 gusset sts on hold, cast on 2 sts at the gusset, work to end. 44 sts on the needles.
Work stockinette st on needles I and II and cables on needles III and IV until the palm measures approx. 16 cm from the top edge of the ribbing or until the mitten covers the index finger.
Work top decreases as follows: At the beginning of needles I and III, k1, ssk (slip 2 sts knitwise one at a time to right-hand needle, slip both sts back to left-hand needle and knit them together through the back loop); at the end of needles II and IV, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decreases on every round. While decreasing, keep working stockinette st on needles I and II and cables on needles III and IV for as long as you have enough sts.
When 8 sts remain, break yarn and pull it through the sts.
Thumb
Place the 14 thumb sts back onto the needles and pick up 3 additional sts from the base of the thumb to avoid gaps. Divide the 17 sts onto three needles (6 sts, 6 sts, 5 sts). Work stockinette st in the round.
When the thumb measures approx. 5 cm or when the fabric covers half your thumbnail, begin decreases: at the beginning of each needle, k2tog. Repeat the decreases on every round until 8 sts remain. Break yarn and pull it through the sts.
Right mitten
Cast on 44 sts and divide them onto four needles, 11 sts each. Work twisted ribbing in the round for 3 cm. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV.
Choose a cable pattern (A, B, C, D or E) and work row 1 of the chart: on needles I and II, work the 22 st cable pattern; on needles III and IV (palm), work twisted ribbing. Charts A and E: work rows 2–8, then keep repeating rows 1–8. Chart B: work rows 2–24, then keep repeating rows 1–24. Chart C: work rows 2–6, then keep repeating rows 1–6. Chart D: work rows 2–12, then keep repeating rows 1–12.
When the mitten measures 9 cm, switch to working needles III and IV in stockinette st; on needles I and II, keep working the cable pattern.
Work for 2 rounds. On the next round, begin increases for the thumb gusset on needle III as follows: work 2 sts, increase 1, k2, increase 1, work to end. Repeat the increases on every 3rd round 5 more times. 2 sts increased each time. After completing the increases, work 1 round even and then work next round to beginning of gusset. Leave the 14 gusset sts on hold, cast on 2 sts at the gusset, work to end. 44 sts on the needles.
Work cables on needles I and II and stockinette st on needles III and IV until the palm measures approx. 16 cm from the top edge of the ribbing or until the mitten covers the index finger.
Work top decreases as follows: At the beginning of needles I and III, k1, ssk (slip 2 sts knitwise one at a time to right-hand needle, slip both sts back to left-hand needle and knit them together through the back loop); at the end of needles II and IV, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decreases on every round. While decreasing, keep working cables on needles I and II and stockinette st on needles III and IV for as long as you have enough sts.
When 8 sts remain, break yarn and pull it through the sts.
Finishing
Steam the mittens lightly.
Stitch patterns Twisted ribbing in the round: *k1 through back loop, p1*, repeat *–*. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.
Gauge 22 sts and 30 rows in stockinette st = 10 cm / 4 in
Note There are five different options for the cable pattern (charts A, B, C, D and E), but otherwise all versions are knitted in the same way.
Left mitten
Cast on 44 sts and divide them onto four needles, 11 sts each. Work twisted ribbing in the round for 3 cm. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV.
Choose a cable pattern (A, B, C, D or E) and work row 1 of the chart: on needles I and II (palm), work twisted ribbing; on needles III and IV, work the 22 st cable pattern. Charts A and E: work rows 2–8, then keep repeating rows 1–8. Chart B: work rows 2–24, then keep repeating rows 1–24. Chart C: work rows 2–6, then keep repeating rows 1–6. Chart D: work rows 2–12, then keep repeating rows 1–12.
When the mitten measures 9 cm, switch to working needles I and II in stockinette st; on needles III and IV, keep working the cable pattern.
Work for 2 rounds. On the next round, begin increases for the thumb gusset on needle II as follows: work to last 4 sts on needle II, increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k2, increase 1, k2, work to end. Repeat the increases on every 3rd round 5 more times. 2 sts increased each time. After completing the increases, work 1 round even and then work next round to beginning of gusset. Leave the 14 gusset sts on hold, cast on 2 sts at the gusset, work to end. 44 sts on the needles.
Work stockinette st on needles I and II and cables on needles III and IV until the palm measures approx. 16 cm from the top edge of the ribbing or until the mitten covers the index finger.
Work top decreases as follows: At the beginning of needles I and III, k1, ssk (slip 2 sts knitwise one at a time to right-hand needle, slip both sts back to left-hand needle and knit them together through the back loop); at the end of needles II and IV, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decreases on every round. While decreasing, keep working stockinette st on needles I and II and cables on needles III and IV for as long as you have enough sts.
When 8 sts remain, break yarn and pull it through the sts.
Thumb
Place the 14 thumb sts back onto the needles and pick up 3 additional sts from the base of the thumb to avoid gaps. Divide the 17 sts onto three needles (6 sts, 6 sts, 5 sts). Work stockinette st in the round.
When the thumb measures approx. 5 cm or when the fabric covers half your thumbnail, begin decreases: at the beginning of each needle, k2tog. Repeat the decreases on every round until 8 sts remain. Break yarn and pull it through the sts.
Right mitten
Cast on 44 sts and divide them onto four needles, 11 sts each. Work twisted ribbing in the round for 3 cm. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV.
Choose a cable pattern (A, B, C, D or E) and work row 1 of the chart: on needles I and II, work the 22 st cable pattern; on needles III and IV (palm), work twisted ribbing. Charts A and E: work rows 2–8, then keep repeating rows 1–8. Chart B: work rows 2–24, then keep repeating rows 1–24. Chart C: work rows 2–6, then keep repeating rows 1–6. Chart D: work rows 2–12, then keep repeating rows 1–12.
When the mitten measures 9 cm, switch to working needles III and IV in stockinette st; on needles I and II, keep working the cable pattern.
Work for 2 rounds. On the next round, begin increases for the thumb gusset on needle III as follows: work 2 sts, increase 1, k2, increase 1, work to end. Repeat the increases on every 3rd round 5 more times. 2 sts increased each time. After completing the increases, work 1 round even and then work next round to beginning of gusset. Leave the 14 gusset sts on hold, cast on 2 sts at the gusset, work to end. 44 sts on the needles.
Work cables on needles I and II and stockinette st on needles III and IV until the palm measures approx. 16 cm from the top edge of the ribbing or until the mitten covers the index finger.
Work top decreases as follows: At the beginning of needles I and III, k1, ssk (slip 2 sts knitwise one at a time to right-hand needle, slip both sts back to left-hand needle and knit them together through the back loop); at the end of needles II and IV, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decreases on every round. While decreasing, keep working cables on needles I and II and stockinette st on needles III and IV for as long as you have enough sts.
When 8 sts remain, break yarn and pull it through the sts.
Finishing
Steam the mittens lightly.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.