My Cart

Mini Cart

Tunisian Crochet Clutch Novita 7 Veljestä Polaris and Multiraita

Tunisian Crochet Clutch Novita 7 Veljestä Polaris and Multiraita

As low as €0.00

The modern clutch is made using the Tunisian crochet technique and two multi-coloured yarns: Novita 7 Veljestä Polaris and Novita 7 Veljestä Multiraita.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2016 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 33
Skill level Expert
Tunisian Crochet Clutch Novita 7 Veljestä Polaris and Multiraita
€7.50
€7.50

* Required Fields

Your Customization
Tunisian Crochet Clutch Novita 7 Veljestä Polaris and Multiraita
Tunisian Crochet Clutch Novita 7 Veljestä Polaris and Multiraita

In stock

€0.00

- +
Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N041633
    Pattern details
    Size
    30 x 33 (30 x 21 cm, when folded)

    Yarn demand
    A Novita 7 Veljestä Multiraita Baker 100 g
    B Novita 7 veljestä Polaris Forenoon 100 g
    Novita Cotton Mercerized C Off White, D Desert, and E Raspberry small amount of each for tie

    Needles and other supplies
    Hook
    Double-ended Tunisian crochet hook Novita 6.00 mm
    Or the size to give you the correct tension

    Other
    1 button

    Designer
    Susanna Mertsalmi

    Details

    The clutch will be worked in the round from the bottom up

    Using a double-ended Tunisian crochet hook and yarn A make a slip knot and work a foundation row: 47ch loosely, length about 30 cm.

    Start working in simple stitch by picking up the loops: Insert the hook into the second ch from the hook, yarn over hook (yoh) and draw through the chain stitch. You have now 2 loops on the hook. *Insert the hook into the next ch, yoh, draw through*, repeat *-* to end. You have now 47 loops on the hook.

    Turn work and continue using the other end of the hook. Join yarn B and take off the loops in the following way: With yarn B yoh and draw through the first loop. *Yoh and draw through 2 loops*. Repeat *-* until 2 loops remain. Turn work and slide 2 loops to the other end of the hook.

    Next, pick up loops on the other side of the foundation row: With yarn A yoh and then, work 1 loop into the vertical bar below the latter loop on the hook. Mark the yoh with a marker (= the middle one of 3 loops made into a single vertical strand). Pick up 47 loops on this side of the foundation row. You have now 51 loops on the hook. Turn work and continue with the other end of the hook.

    Take off the loops just picked up: with yarn B *yoh and draw through 2 loops*, repeat *-* until 2 loops remain. Turn work and slide the loops to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn A yoh and then, work 1 loop into the vertical bar below the latter loop on the hook. Mark the yoh just made with a marker (= the middle one of 3 loops made into a single vertical strand in the other end of the work). You have now 4 loops on the hook. Turn work and slide the loops to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn B *yoh and draw through 2 loops* and repeat *-* once. You have now 2 loops on the hook. Turn work and slide the loops to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn A work 1 loop into the vertical strand below the latter loop on the hook. Work 46 more loops as usual (until you come to the marked loop). Yoh and work 1 loop into the same vertical strand. You have now 51 loops on the hook. Turn work and continue with the other end of the hook.

    With yarn B *yoh and draw through 2 loops*, repeat *-* until 4 loops remain. Turn work and slide the loops to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn A work 3 loops into the next vertical strand (= pick up 1 loop, yoh, pick up 1 loop). Again, work 3 loops into the next vertical strand. You have now 10 loops on the hook. Turn work and slide the loops to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn B yoh and draw through 4 loops, *yoh and draw through 2 loops*, repeat *-* 2 more times. Yoh and draw through 4 loops. Turn work and slide 1 loop to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn A work 1 loop into the next vertical strand worked with yarn A. Work 46 more loops as usual (until you come to the marked loop). Yoh and work 1 loop into the same vertical strand. Work 3 loops into the next 2 vertical strands, too. Turn work and continue with the other end of the hook.

    With yarn B *yoh and draw through 2 loops*, repeat *-* 45 times more, yoh and draw through 4 loops, *yoh and draw through 2 loops*, repeat *-* 2 times more, yoh and draw through 4 loops. Turn work and slide 1 loop to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn A work 46 loops as usual and then, work 3 loops into the next vertical triple strand. Turn work and continue with the other end of the hook.

    With yarn B *yoh and draw through 2 loops*, repeat *-* until 4 loops remain. Turn work and slide the loops to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn A work 1 loop into the next vertical strand, 3 loops into the one after that, 1 loop into the next one and 3 loops into the next triple strand. Turn work and slide the loops to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn B yoh and draw through 4 loops, *yoh and draw through 2 loops*, repeat *-* 4 times more, yoh and draw through 4 loops. Turn work and slide 1 loop to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn A work 46 loops as usual and then, work 3 loops into the next vertical triple strand. Turn work and continue with the other end of the hook.

    With yarn B *yoh and draw through 2 loops*. Repeat *-* until 4 loops remain. Turn work and slide the loops to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn A work 1 loop into the next vertical strand, 3 loops into the one after that, 1 loop into the next one and 3 loops into the next vertical triple strand. Turn work and slide the loops to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn B yoh and draw through 4 loops, *yoh and draw through 2 loops*, repeat *-* 4 times more, yoh and draw through 4 loops. Turn work and slide 1 loop to the other end of the hook.

    **With yarn A work 46 loops as usual and then, work 3 loops into the next vertical triple strand. Turn work and continue with the other end of the hook.

    *With yarn B yoh and draw through 2 loops*. Repeat *–* until 4 loops remain. Turn work and slide the loops to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn A work 5 loops as usual and then, work 3 loops into the next vertical triple strand. Turn work and slide the loops to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn B yoh and draw through 4 loops, *yoh and draw through 2 loops*, repeat *-* 4 times more, yoh and draw through 4 loops. Turn worn and slide 1 loop to the other end of the hook.**

    Repeat **–** until the work measures about 33 cm.

    On the next row worked with yarn A decrease the 5 loops between the vertical triple loops (decrease: yoh, draw through 5 vertical strands = 1 loop). Repeat for the other end of the work.

    Complete the work in the following way: with yarn B take off the loops and work a slip stitch edging around the edge.

    Finishing

    Tie: Cut three 4-meter-long lengths of cotton yarn, one of each colour C, D, and E. Fold yarn C in half, pull the folded end through the midpoint at the other half of the top edge and pull the loose ends through the folded end. Attach yarn D in a similar way on one side of yarn C and yarn E on the other side.

    To make a tie, braid the strands or make a friendship bracelet (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wu3Vgz4nUV4).

    Using yarns C, D and E make a tassel, length 8 cm, and attach at the tip of the tie.

    Sew a button onto the attachment point of the tie, on the right side of the clutch.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    30 x 21 cm

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Technique
    Tunisian crochet in the round using double ended hook: Follow the written instructions

    Tension
    17 sts = 10 cm

    The clutch will be worked in the round from the bottom up

    Using a double-ended Tunisian crochet hook and yarn A make a slip knot and work a foundation row: 47ch loosely, length about 30 cm.

    Start working in simple stitch by picking up the loops: Insert the hook into the second ch from the hook, yarn over hook (yoh) and draw through the chain stitch. You have now 2 loops on the hook. *Insert the hook into the next ch, yoh, draw through*, repeat *-* to end. You have now 47 loops on the hook.

    Turn work and continue using the other end of the hook. Join yarn B and take off the loops in the following way: With yarn B yoh and draw through the first loop. *Yoh and draw through 2 loops*. Repeat *-* until 2 loops remain. Turn work and slide 2 loops to the other end of the hook.

    Next, pick up loops on the other side of the foundation row: With yarn A yoh and then, work 1 loop into the vertical bar below the latter loop on the hook. Mark the yoh with a marker (= the middle one of 3 loops made into a single vertical strand). Pick up 47 loops on this side of the foundation row. You have now 51 loops on the hook. Turn work and continue with the other end of the hook.

    Take off the loops just picked up: with yarn B *yoh and draw through 2 loops*, repeat *-* until 2 loops remain. Turn work and slide the loops to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn A yoh and then, work 1 loop into the vertical bar below the latter loop on the hook. Mark the yoh just made with a marker (= the middle one of 3 loops made into a single vertical strand in the other end of the work). You have now 4 loops on the hook. Turn work and slide the loops to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn B *yoh and draw through 2 loops* and repeat *-* once. You have now 2 loops on the hook. Turn work and slide the loops to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn A work 1 loop into the vertical strand below the latter loop on the hook. Work 46 more loops as usual (until you come to the marked loop). Yoh and work 1 loop into the same vertical strand. You have now 51 loops on the hook. Turn work and continue with the other end of the hook.

    With yarn B *yoh and draw through 2 loops*, repeat *-* until 4 loops remain. Turn work and slide the loops to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn A work 3 loops into the next vertical strand (= pick up 1 loop, yoh, pick up 1 loop). Again, work 3 loops into the next vertical strand. You have now 10 loops on the hook. Turn work and slide the loops to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn B yoh and draw through 4 loops, *yoh and draw through 2 loops*, repeat *-* 2 more times. Yoh and draw through 4 loops. Turn work and slide 1 loop to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn A work 1 loop into the next vertical strand worked with yarn A. Work 46 more loops as usual (until you come to the marked loop). Yoh and work 1 loop into the same vertical strand. Work 3 loops into the next 2 vertical strands, too. Turn work and continue with the other end of the hook.

    With yarn B *yoh and draw through 2 loops*, repeat *-* 45 times more, yoh and draw through 4 loops, *yoh and draw through 2 loops*, repeat *-* 2 times more, yoh and draw through 4 loops. Turn work and slide 1 loop to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn A work 46 loops as usual and then, work 3 loops into the next vertical triple strand. Turn work and continue with the other end of the hook.

    With yarn B *yoh and draw through 2 loops*, repeat *-* until 4 loops remain. Turn work and slide the loops to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn A work 1 loop into the next vertical strand, 3 loops into the one after that, 1 loop into the next one and 3 loops into the next triple strand. Turn work and slide the loops to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn B yoh and draw through 4 loops, *yoh and draw through 2 loops*, repeat *-* 4 times more, yoh and draw through 4 loops. Turn work and slide 1 loop to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn A work 46 loops as usual and then, work 3 loops into the next vertical triple strand. Turn work and continue with the other end of the hook.

    With yarn B *yoh and draw through 2 loops*. Repeat *-* until 4 loops remain. Turn work and slide the loops to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn A work 1 loop into the next vertical strand, 3 loops into the one after that, 1 loop into the next one and 3 loops into the next vertical triple strand. Turn work and slide the loops to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn B yoh and draw through 4 loops, *yoh and draw through 2 loops*, repeat *-* 4 times more, yoh and draw through 4 loops. Turn work and slide 1 loop to the other end of the hook.

    **With yarn A work 46 loops as usual and then, work 3 loops into the next vertical triple strand. Turn work and continue with the other end of the hook.

    *With yarn B yoh and draw through 2 loops*. Repeat *–* until 4 loops remain. Turn work and slide the loops to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn A work 5 loops as usual and then, work 3 loops into the next vertical triple strand. Turn work and slide the loops to the other end of the hook.

    With yarn B yoh and draw through 4 loops, *yoh and draw through 2 loops*, repeat *-* 4 times more, yoh and draw through 4 loops. Turn worn and slide 1 loop to the other end of the hook.**

    Repeat **–** until the work measures about 33 cm.

    On the next row worked with yarn A decrease the 5 loops between the vertical triple loops (decrease: yoh, draw through 5 vertical strands = 1 loop). Repeat for the other end of the work.

    Complete the work in the following way: with yarn B take off the loops and work a slip stitch edging around the edge.

    Finishing

    Tie: Cut three 4-meter-long lengths of cotton yarn, one of each colour C, D, and E. Fold yarn C in half, pull the folded end through the midpoint at the other half of the top edge and pull the loose ends through the folded end. Attach yarn D in a similar way on one side of yarn C and yarn E on the other side.

    To make a tie, braid the strands or make a friendship bracelet (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wu3Vgz4nUV4).

    Using yarns C, D and E make a tassel, length 8 cm, and attach at the tip of the tie.

    Sew a button onto the attachment point of the tie, on the right side of the clutch.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

    Reviews

    Write Your Own Review

    Only registered users can write reviews. Please Sign in or create an account