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Tove cardigan Novita Nordic Wool

As low as €1.90

This coat is part of a capsule wardrobe designed by Sari Nordlund, comprising nine designs perfectly compatible with each other.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 6
Skill level Expert
Tove cardigan Novita Nordic Wool
€4.50
€4.50
€4.50
€4.50
€4.50
€4.50
Novita Finishing Needle 2 pcs
€1.90

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Tove cardigan Novita Nordic Wool
Tove cardigan Novita Nordic Wool

In stock

€1.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N04196
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Nordic Wool
    (010) Off White 750(800)850(900)950(1000) g

    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 4½ mm (UK 7 / US 7) and 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) or sizes needed;
    a second 4½ mm circular needle (80 cm / 32 in) for the border;
    cable needle

    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details

    Back

    Using the smaller needle cast on 119(127)139(147)155(163) sts and begin ribbing with k1. From now on keep working 1 st at both ends (edge sts) in garter st. Work ribbing for 12,5 cm and finish on a RS row.

    Switch to the larger needle and begin the pattern on row 1 of chart I: (WS) work 1 st in garter st and 13(17)23(27)31(35) sts in seed st, work the 91 st cable pattern, work 13(17)23(27)31(35) sts in seed st and 1 st in garter st. Work rows 2–24 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–24.

    When the piece measures 17(17)21(21)23(23) cm, decrease 1 st at both ends: on a RS row work 1 st, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), work 1 st. Repeat the decreases every 7,5 cm 7 more times = 103(111)123(131)139(147) sts.

    When the piece measures 76,5(77)79(79,5)80,5(81,5) cm, on every other row bind off 1x5(5)6(7)8(9) sts, 1x2(2)3(3)3(3) sts and 4(5)8(8)8(9)x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 81(87)89(95)101(105) sts.

    When the armhole measures 19(20,5)21,5(23)24(25,5) cm, on every other row bind off 3x7(8)8(9)10(10) sts at both ends for the shoulders. Bind off the remaining 39(39)41(41)41(45) sts.

    Left front

    Using the smaller needle cast on 54(58)64(68)72(76) sts and begin ribbing with k1. From now on keep working 1 st at both ends (edge sts) in garter st. Work ribbing for 12,5 cm and finish on a RS row.

    Switch to the larger needle and begin the pattern on row 1 of chart II: (WS) work 1 st in garter st, work the 39 st cable pattern, work 13(17)23(27)31(35) sts in seed st and 1 st in garter st. Work rows 2–24 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–24.

    When the piece measures 17(17)21(21)23(23) cm, decrease 1 st at the right end: on a RS row work 1 st, k2tog, work to end. Repeat the decrease every 7,5 cm 7 more times = 46(50)56(60)64(68) sts.

    When the piece measures 70(70,5)72,5(73,5)74,5(75,5) cm, begin the slanted neckline at the left end: on a RS row work to last 3 sts, k2tog, work 1 st. Repeat the decrease every 4th row 13(13)14(14)14(16) more times.

    Note: When the piece measures 76,5(77)79(79,5)80,5(81) cm, on every other row bind off 1x5(5)6(7)8(9) sts, 1x2(2)3(3)3(3) sts and 4(5)8(8)8(9)x1 st at the right end for the armhole.

    When the armhole measures 19(20,5)21,5(23)24(25,5) cm, on every other row bind off 3x7(8)8(9)10(10) sts at the right end for the shoulder.

    Right front

    Using the smaller needle cast on 54(58)64(68)72(76) sts and begin ribbing with k1. From now on keep working 1 st at both ends (edge sts) in garter st. Work ribbing for 12,5 cm and finish on a RS row.

    Switch to the larger needle and begin the pattern on row 1 of chart III: (WS) work 1 st in garter st and 13(17)23(27)31(35) sts in seed st, work the 39 st cable pattern, work 1 st in garter st. Work rows 2–24 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–24.

    When the piece measures 17(17)21(21)23(23) cm, decrease 1 st at the left end: on a RS row work to last 3 sts, skp, work 1 st. Repeat the decrease every 7,5 cm 7 more times = 46(50)56(60)64(68) sts.

    When the piece measures 70(70,5)72,5(73,5)74,5(75) cm, begin the slanted neckline at the right end: work 1 st, skp, work to end. Repeat the decrease every 4th row 13(13)14(14)14(16) more times.

    Note: When the piece measures 76,5(77)79(79,5)80,5(81) cm, on every other row bind off 1x5(5)6(7)8(9) sts, 1x2(2)3(3)3(3) sts and 4(5)8(8)8(9)x1 st at the left end for the armhole.

    When the armhole measures 19(20,5)21,5(23)24(25,5) cm, on every other row bind off 3x7(8)8(9)10(10) sts at the left end for the shoulder.

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller needle cast on 49(49)53(55)59(59) sts and begin ribbing with k1. From now on keep working 1 st at both ends (edge sts) in garter st. Work ribbing for 12,5 cm and finish on a RS row.

    Switch to the larger needle and begin the pattern on row 1 of chart I: (WS) work 1 st in garter st and 2(2)4(5)7(7) sts in seed st, work the 43 st cable pattern, work 2(2)4(5)7(7) sts in seed st and 1 st in garter st. Work rows 2–24 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–24.

    When the piece measures 14 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 3,5(3)2,5(2)2(2) cm 10(13)15(17)19(20) more times = 71(77)85(91)99(101) sts. Work the increased sts in seed st.

    When the piece measures 52(53)53(53)54(54) cm, on every other row bind off 1x5(6)6(7)8(8) sts, 1x4(4)5(6)6(6) sts, 1x3 sts and 1x1(1)2(2)2(2) sts at both ends. On every other row bind off 12(13)13(13)13(14)x1 st at both ends. On every other row bind off 1(1)1(1)2(2)x2 sts and 1x4 sts at both ends. Bind off the remaining sts.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry. Sew the shoulder seams and side seams.

    Border: Using the smaller needles pick up and knit sts from the RS: 124(124)132(132)138(138) sts from the right front before the slanted neckline, place marker, 57(59)64(65)67(69) sts from right front neckline (before the shoulder seam), 37(37)41(41)41(45) sts from back neckline, 57(59)64(65)67(69) sts from left front neckline, place marker, 124(124)132(132)138(138) sts from left front = 399(403)433(435)451(459) sts.

    Begin ribbing on the WS: p2, k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *–*, p2.

    After 2 rows begin short rows: work ribbing until 1 st remains before 2nd marker. Turn work, yarn over. Work until 1 st remains before 1st marker. Turn work, yarn over. *Work until 5(5)6(6)6(7) sts remain before next yo, turn work and yo.* Repeat *–* until there are 9 yarn overs on both sides.

    On the next row work ribbing to end. At the same time knit or purl the yarn overs together with their corresponding sts: k2tog if the previous st is a knit st and p2tog if a purl st.

    Work ribbing for 3 rows. On the first row work the remaining yarn overs together with their corresponding sts: skp if the previous st is a knit st and ssp if it is a purl st (= slip 2 sts knitwise one by one from left-hand needle to right-hand needle, move both sts back to left-hand needle and purl them together through the back loop).

    Repeat the short rows. After that, work ribbing and on the first two rows work the yarn overs together with their corresponding sts as established.

    When the border measures 5 cm from the bottom edge, bind off in pattern.

    Attach the sleeves. Sew the sleeve seams.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 88(96)104(112)120(128) cm / 34¾(37¾)41(44)47¼(50½) in length 98(100)103(105)107(109) cm / 38½(39¼)40½(41¼)42¼(43) in inner sleeve length 52(52)53(53)54(54) cm / 20½(20½)20¾(20¾)21¼(21¼) in

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Ribbing: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.
    - Seed stitch: *p1, k1*, repeat *–*. On the wrong side rows, purl the knit sts and knit the purl sts.
    - Cable pattern: work following the chart and instructions.
    - Garter stitch: knit all rows.

    Gauge
    22 sts and 25 rows in cable pattern with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in



    Back

    Using the smaller needle cast on 119(127)139(147)155(163) sts and begin ribbing with k1. From now on keep working 1 st at both ends (edge sts) in garter st. Work ribbing for 12,5 cm and finish on a RS row.

    Switch to the larger needle and begin the pattern on row 1 of chart I: (WS) work 1 st in garter st and 13(17)23(27)31(35) sts in seed st, work the 91 st cable pattern, work 13(17)23(27)31(35) sts in seed st and 1 st in garter st. Work rows 2–24 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–24.

    When the piece measures 17(17)21(21)23(23) cm, decrease 1 st at both ends: on a RS row work 1 st, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), work 1 st. Repeat the decreases every 7,5 cm 7 more times = 103(111)123(131)139(147) sts.

    When the piece measures 76,5(77)79(79,5)80,5(81,5) cm, on every other row bind off 1x5(5)6(7)8(9) sts, 1x2(2)3(3)3(3) sts and 4(5)8(8)8(9)x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 81(87)89(95)101(105) sts.

    When the armhole measures 19(20,5)21,5(23)24(25,5) cm, on every other row bind off 3x7(8)8(9)10(10) sts at both ends for the shoulders. Bind off the remaining 39(39)41(41)41(45) sts.

    Left front

    Using the smaller needle cast on 54(58)64(68)72(76) sts and begin ribbing with k1. From now on keep working 1 st at both ends (edge sts) in garter st. Work ribbing for 12,5 cm and finish on a RS row.

    Switch to the larger needle and begin the pattern on row 1 of chart II: (WS) work 1 st in garter st, work the 39 st cable pattern, work 13(17)23(27)31(35) sts in seed st and 1 st in garter st. Work rows 2–24 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–24.

    When the piece measures 17(17)21(21)23(23) cm, decrease 1 st at the right end: on a RS row work 1 st, k2tog, work to end. Repeat the decrease every 7,5 cm 7 more times = 46(50)56(60)64(68) sts.

    When the piece measures 70(70,5)72,5(73,5)74,5(75,5) cm, begin the slanted neckline at the left end: on a RS row work to last 3 sts, k2tog, work 1 st. Repeat the decrease every 4th row 13(13)14(14)14(16) more times.

    Note: When the piece measures 76,5(77)79(79,5)80,5(81) cm, on every other row bind off 1x5(5)6(7)8(9) sts, 1x2(2)3(3)3(3) sts and 4(5)8(8)8(9)x1 st at the right end for the armhole.

    When the armhole measures 19(20,5)21,5(23)24(25,5) cm, on every other row bind off 3x7(8)8(9)10(10) sts at the right end for the shoulder.

    Right front

    Using the smaller needle cast on 54(58)64(68)72(76) sts and begin ribbing with k1. From now on keep working 1 st at both ends (edge sts) in garter st. Work ribbing for 12,5 cm and finish on a RS row.

    Switch to the larger needle and begin the pattern on row 1 of chart III: (WS) work 1 st in garter st and 13(17)23(27)31(35) sts in seed st, work the 39 st cable pattern, work 1 st in garter st. Work rows 2–24 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–24.

    When the piece measures 17(17)21(21)23(23) cm, decrease 1 st at the left end: on a RS row work to last 3 sts, skp, work 1 st. Repeat the decrease every 7,5 cm 7 more times = 46(50)56(60)64(68) sts.

    When the piece measures 70(70,5)72,5(73,5)74,5(75) cm, begin the slanted neckline at the right end: work 1 st, skp, work to end. Repeat the decrease every 4th row 13(13)14(14)14(16) more times.

    Note: When the piece measures 76,5(77)79(79,5)80,5(81) cm, on every other row bind off 1x5(5)6(7)8(9) sts, 1x2(2)3(3)3(3) sts and 4(5)8(8)8(9)x1 st at the left end for the armhole.

    When the armhole measures 19(20,5)21,5(23)24(25,5) cm, on every other row bind off 3x7(8)8(9)10(10) sts at the left end for the shoulder.

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller needle cast on 49(49)53(55)59(59) sts and begin ribbing with k1. From now on keep working 1 st at both ends (edge sts) in garter st. Work ribbing for 12,5 cm and finish on a RS row.

    Switch to the larger needle and begin the pattern on row 1 of chart I: (WS) work 1 st in garter st and 2(2)4(5)7(7) sts in seed st, work the 43 st cable pattern, work 2(2)4(5)7(7) sts in seed st and 1 st in garter st. Work rows 2–24 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–24.

    When the piece measures 14 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 3,5(3)2,5(2)2(2) cm 10(13)15(17)19(20) more times = 71(77)85(91)99(101) sts. Work the increased sts in seed st.

    When the piece measures 52(53)53(53)54(54) cm, on every other row bind off 1x5(6)6(7)8(8) sts, 1x4(4)5(6)6(6) sts, 1x3 sts and 1x1(1)2(2)2(2) sts at both ends. On every other row bind off 12(13)13(13)13(14)x1 st at both ends. On every other row bind off 1(1)1(1)2(2)x2 sts and 1x4 sts at both ends. Bind off the remaining sts.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry. Sew the shoulder seams and side seams.

    Border: Using the smaller needles pick up and knit sts from the RS: 124(124)132(132)138(138) sts from the right front before the slanted neckline, place marker, 57(59)64(65)67(69) sts from right front neckline (before the shoulder seam), 37(37)41(41)41(45) sts from back neckline, 57(59)64(65)67(69) sts from left front neckline, place marker, 124(124)132(132)138(138) sts from left front = 399(403)433(435)451(459) sts.

    Begin ribbing on the WS: p2, k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *–*, p2.

    After 2 rows begin short rows: work ribbing until 1 st remains before 2nd marker. Turn work, yarn over. Work until 1 st remains before 1st marker. Turn work, yarn over. *Work until 5(5)6(6)6(7) sts remain before next yo, turn work and yo.* Repeat *–* until there are 9 yarn overs on both sides.

    On the next row work ribbing to end. At the same time knit or purl the yarn overs together with their corresponding sts: k2tog if the previous st is a knit st and p2tog if a purl st.

    Work ribbing for 3 rows. On the first row work the remaining yarn overs together with their corresponding sts: skp if the previous st is a knit st and ssp if it is a purl st (= slip 2 sts knitwise one by one from left-hand needle to right-hand needle, move both sts back to left-hand needle and purl them together through the back loop).

    Repeat the short rows. After that, work ribbing and on the first two rows work the yarn overs together with their corresponding sts as established.

    When the border measures 5 cm from the bottom edge, bind off in pattern.

    Attach the sleeves. Sew the sleeve seams.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Here you find size guides for your knitting projects!




     
     




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