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Yoke
Using the smaller 40 cm circular needle and the Aqua yarn, cast on 80(80)84(84) sts and work ribbing in the round for 2,5 cm.
Switch to the larger 40 cm needle. Work stockinette st in the round for 1(2)2(3) rounds, evenly increasing 20(25)26(31) sts on the first round = 100(105)110(115) sts.
Keep working in the round and begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of the chart. Work the 5 st pattern repeat 20(21)22(23) times. Work rows 2–8 of the chart. On row 4, 1 st increased in each pattern repeat = 120(126)132(138) sts.
Work rows 9–10. On row 9, 1 st increased in each pattern repeat = 140(147)154(161) sts. Note: Switch to the longer circular needle when you need to.
Work rows 11–17. On row 11, 1 st increased in each pattern repeat = 160(168)176(184) sts.
Work rows 18–19. On row 18, 1 st increased in each pattern repeat = 180(189)198(207) sts.
Work rows 20–27. On row 20, 1 st increased in each pattern repeat = 200(210)220(230) sts.
Work row 28. 1 st increased in each pattern repeat = 220(231)242(253) sts.
Now work stockinette st with Aqua. Sizes 104/110(116/122)128/134: evenly increase 3(4)5 sts on the 2nd(3rd)3rd round = 220(234)246(258) sts.
Work until the yoke measures 12(13)14(15) cm from the ribbing.
Body
On the next round work 66(69)72(75) sts (back), leave the next 44(48)51(54) sts on hold (sleeve), cast on 6(7)8(9) sts for the armhole, work 66(69)72(75) sts (front), leave the next 44(48)51(54) sts on hold (sleeve), cast on 6(7)8(9) sts for the other armhole.
Work stockinette st in the round with these 144(152)160(168) sts.
When the piece measures 22(24)26(28) cm from the armhole, switch to the smaller circular needle and work ribbing in the round for 4 cm.
Loosely bind off in pattern.
Sleeves
Move the 44(48)51(54) sts onto double-pointed needles and pick up and knit 6(7)8(9) sts from the armhole cast-on = 50(55)59(63) sts.
The beginning of the round is at the midpoint of the picked-up sts. Work stockinette st in the round.
When the sleeve measures 2(2)1(1) cm from the armhole, on the next round decrease 1 st after the first st and 1 st before the last st. Repeat the decreases every 2,5 cm 7(8)10(11) more times = 34(37)37(39) sts.
When the sleeve measures 27(30)32(35) cm from the armhole, switch to the smaller double-pointed needles. Work ribbing in the round and decrease 0(1)1(1) st(s) on the first round = 34(36)36(38) sts.
When the ribbing measures 4 cm, loosely bind off in pattern.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Pin to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.
Yoke
Using the smaller 40 cm circular needle and the Aqua yarn, cast on 80(80)84(84) sts and work ribbing in the round for 2,5 cm.
Switch to the larger 40 cm needle. Work stockinette st in the round for 1(2)2(3) rounds, evenly increasing 20(25)26(31) sts on the first round = 100(105)110(115) sts.
Keep working in the round and begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of the chart. Work the 5 st pattern repeat 20(21)22(23) times. Work rows 2–8 of the chart. On row 4, 1 st increased in each pattern repeat = 120(126)132(138) sts.
Work rows 9–10. On row 9, 1 st increased in each pattern repeat = 140(147)154(161) sts. Note: Switch to the longer circular needle when you need to.
Work rows 11–17. On row 11, 1 st increased in each pattern repeat = 160(168)176(184) sts.
Work rows 18–19. On row 18, 1 st increased in each pattern repeat = 180(189)198(207) sts.
Work rows 20–27. On row 20, 1 st increased in each pattern repeat = 200(210)220(230) sts.
Work row 28. 1 st increased in each pattern repeat = 220(231)242(253) sts.
Now work stockinette st with Aqua. Sizes 104/110(116/122)128/134: evenly increase 3(4)5 sts on the 2nd(3rd)3rd round = 220(234)246(258) sts.
Work until the yoke measures 12(13)14(15) cm from the ribbing.
Body
On the next round work 66(69)72(75) sts (back), leave the next 44(48)51(54) sts on hold (sleeve), cast on 6(7)8(9) sts for the armhole, work 66(69)72(75) sts (front), leave the next 44(48)51(54) sts on hold (sleeve), cast on 6(7)8(9) sts for the other armhole.
Work stockinette st in the round with these 144(152)160(168) sts.
When the piece measures 22(24)26(28) cm from the armhole, switch to the smaller circular needle and work ribbing in the round for 4 cm.
Loosely bind off in pattern.
Sleeves
Move the 44(48)51(54) sts onto double-pointed needles and pick up and knit 6(7)8(9) sts from the armhole cast-on = 50(55)59(63) sts.
The beginning of the round is at the midpoint of the picked-up sts. Work stockinette st in the round.
When the sleeve measures 2(2)1(1) cm from the armhole, on the next round decrease 1 st after the first st and 1 st before the last st. Repeat the decreases every 2,5 cm 7(8)10(11) more times = 34(37)37(39) sts.
When the sleeve measures 27(30)32(35) cm from the armhole, switch to the smaller double-pointed needles. Work ribbing in the round and decrease 0(1)1(1) st(s) on the first round = 34(36)36(38) sts.
When the ribbing measures 4 cm, loosely bind off in pattern.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Pin to measurements, mist on the wrong side and allow to dry.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.