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Taika overall for babies Novita Baby Merino ja Baby Merino Dream

Taika overall for babies Novita Baby Merino ja Baby Merino Dream

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This Taika overall for babies is inspired by frosty berries, Scandinavian patterns and soft wool Novita Baby Merino and Baby Merino Dream.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 26
Skill level Intermediate
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N041926
Pattern details
Size
56/62(68/74)80/86(92/98) cm

Yarn demand
Novita Baby Merino
Main colour: Cherry 150(150)200(200) g
Contrast colour 1: Silver Willow 50(50)50(50) g and

Novita Baby Merino Dream
Contrast colour 2: Arctic Raspberry 50(50)50(50) g

Needles and other supplies
Circular needles (60 cm / 24 in):
Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) and
Novita 3½ mm (UK 9½ / US 4), or sizes needed

Double-pointed needles:
Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½);

Other supplies:
6 buttons

Designer
Sari Nordlund

Details

Left leg

Using main colour and the double-pointed needles cast on 44(46)50(54) sts and divide them onto four needles. Work ribbing in the round for 4(4)5(5) cm.

Work stockinette st in the round. On the first round increase 1 st at the beginning and end: k1, make 1 (= knit the strand of yarn of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last st, make 1, k1. Repeat the increases every 2nd round 6(3)0(0) more times and then 9(14)18(18) times on every 4th round = 76(82)88(92) sts.

When the leg measures 20(24)28(31) cm, increase 1 st for the crotch at the beginning and end of round as established. Repeat the increases every 2nd round 3 more times = 84(90)96(100) sts.

At the end of the next RS round bind off the last 4 sts and leave the other 80(86)92(96) sts on hold.

Right leg

Work like left leg until you have completed the crotch increases and there are 84(90)96(100) sts on the needles. Work the WS row.

Body

Switch to the smaller circular needle. At the beginning of round bind off 4 sts at the right leg for the crotch. Work to last st on right leg. Knit together the last st of the right leg and first st of the left leg. Work to end and cast on 1 st for seaming at the end of round. Work the WS round and cast on 1 st at the end = 161(173)185(193) sts.

Work stockinette st flat.

When the piece measures 16(19)23(26) cm from the crotch, switch to the larger circular needle. Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of the chart. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Keep repeating the 8 st pattern as needed. Work rows 2–16 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–16.

When the piece measures 21(24)28(31) cm from the crotch, divide the sts into three groups.

Top right front

Resume the colourwork pattern with the 39(42)44(46) right front sts. Leave the other sts on hold.

When the armhole measures 7(8)9(10) cm, on the next WS row leave 12 sts at the front edge (= right end) on hold for the neckline. On every other row bind off 2x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

When the armhole measures 12(13)14(15) cm, bind off the 21(24)26(28) shoulder sts.

Top left front

Resume the colourwork pattern with the 39(42)44(46) left front sts. Leave the back sts on hold.

When the armhole measures 7(8)9(10) cm, on the next RS row leave 12 sts at the front edge (= left end) on hold for the neckline. On every other row bind off 2x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

When the armhole measures 12(13)14(15) cm, bind off the 21(24)26(28) shoulder sts.

Top back

Resume the colourwork pattern with the 83(89)95(99) back sts.

When the armhole measures 10(11)12(13) cm, bind off the middle 37(37)39(39) sts for the neckline. Work one shoulder at a time. On every other row bind off 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

When the armhole measures 12(13)14(15) cm, bind off the 21(24)26(28) shoulder sts.

Knit the other side in the same manner.

Sleeves

Sew the shoulder seams. Using the double-pointed needles and the main colour pick up and knit 62(68)74(78) sts around the armhole. Work stockinette st in the round.

On the 2nd round begin decreases: k1, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the increases every 2nd round 4(5)5(5) more times and then 4(4)6(6) times on every 3rd round = 44(48)50(54) sts.

When the sleeve measures 13(16)19(22) cm, work ribbing in the round for 4 cm. Bind off in pattern.

Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

Finishing

Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

Neckline edge: move the held sts onto the smaller circular needle and using the main colour pick up and knit additional sts from the neckline edge for 87(87)91(91) sts in total. Work ribbing for 2 cm, then bind off in pattern.

Buttonbands: Using the smaller circular needle and the main colour pick up and knit 3 sts per 4 rows on the left front. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2 + 1 st. Begin ribbing on the WS: p2, k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *–*, p2. Work ribbing for 3 cm, then bind off in pattern. Place markers for 6 buttons on the buttonband. The topmost button should be 1,5 cm from the top edge, the lowest one 1,5 cm from the bottom edge, and the others evenly in between.

Knit the right buttonband in the same manner, making buttonholes at the marked spots when the band measures 1 cm. Buttonhole: work 2 sts together, yarn over. When the buttonband measures 3 cm, bind off in pattern.

Sew the crotch seam, attaching the bottom edges of the buttonbands to the crotch on top of each other.

Sew on the buttons.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
chest circumference 54(58)62(66) cm / 21¼(22¾)24½(26) in inner sleeve length 17(20)23(26) cm / 6¾(7¾)9(10¼) in inner leg length 22(26)30(33) cm / 8¾(10¼)11¾(13) in length from neckline to crotch 33(37)42(46) cm / 13(14½)16½(18) in

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:
- Ribbing in the round:
*k1, p1*, repeat *–*.
- Stockinette stitch in the round:
knit all rows.
- Colourwork:
work stockinette st following the chart and instructions. Twist the yarns around each other on the WS to avoid floats longer than 3 sts.

Gauge:
28 sts and 36 rows in stockinette st with 3 mm needles or in colourwork with 3½ mm needles = 10 cm / 4 in


Left leg

Using main colour and the double-pointed needles cast on 44(46)50(54) sts and divide them onto four needles. Work ribbing in the round for 4(4)5(5) cm.

Work stockinette st in the round. On the first round increase 1 st at the beginning and end: k1, make 1 (= knit the strand of yarn of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last st, make 1, k1. Repeat the increases every 2nd round 6(3)0(0) more times and then 9(14)18(18) times on every 4th round = 76(82)88(92) sts.

When the leg measures 20(24)28(31) cm, increase 1 st for the crotch at the beginning and end of round as established. Repeat the increases every 2nd round 3 more times = 84(90)96(100) sts.

At the end of the next RS round bind off the last 4 sts and leave the other 80(86)92(96) sts on hold.

Right leg

Work like left leg until you have completed the crotch increases and there are 84(90)96(100) sts on the needles. Work the WS row.

Body

Switch to the smaller circular needle. At the beginning of round bind off 4 sts at the right leg for the crotch. Work to last st on right leg. Knit together the last st of the right leg and first st of the left leg. Work to end and cast on 1 st for seaming at the end of round. Work the WS round and cast on 1 st at the end = 161(173)185(193) sts.

Work stockinette st flat.

When the piece measures 16(19)23(26) cm from the crotch, switch to the larger circular needle. Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of the chart. The starting point for each size is marked with an arrow. Keep repeating the 8 st pattern as needed. Work rows 2–16 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–16.

When the piece measures 21(24)28(31) cm from the crotch, divide the sts into three groups.

Top right front

Resume the colourwork pattern with the 39(42)44(46) right front sts. Leave the other sts on hold.

When the armhole measures 7(8)9(10) cm, on the next WS row leave 12 sts at the front edge (= right end) on hold for the neckline. On every other row bind off 2x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

When the armhole measures 12(13)14(15) cm, bind off the 21(24)26(28) shoulder sts.

Top left front

Resume the colourwork pattern with the 39(42)44(46) left front sts. Leave the back sts on hold.

When the armhole measures 7(8)9(10) cm, on the next RS row leave 12 sts at the front edge (= left end) on hold for the neckline. On every other row bind off 2x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

When the armhole measures 12(13)14(15) cm, bind off the 21(24)26(28) shoulder sts.

Top back

Resume the colourwork pattern with the 83(89)95(99) back sts.

When the armhole measures 10(11)12(13) cm, bind off the middle 37(37)39(39) sts for the neckline. Work one shoulder at a time. On every other row bind off 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

When the armhole measures 12(13)14(15) cm, bind off the 21(24)26(28) shoulder sts.

Knit the other side in the same manner.

Sleeves

Sew the shoulder seams. Using the double-pointed needles and the main colour pick up and knit 62(68)74(78) sts around the armhole. Work stockinette st in the round.

On the 2nd round begin decreases: k1, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the increases every 2nd round 4(5)5(5) more times and then 4(4)6(6) times on every 3rd round = 44(48)50(54) sts.

When the sleeve measures 13(16)19(22) cm, work ribbing in the round for 4 cm. Bind off in pattern.

Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

Finishing

Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

Neckline edge: move the held sts onto the smaller circular needle and using the main colour pick up and knit additional sts from the neckline edge for 87(87)91(91) sts in total. Work ribbing for 2 cm, then bind off in pattern.

Buttonbands: Using the smaller circular needle and the main colour pick up and knit 3 sts per 4 rows on the left front. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2 + 1 st. Begin ribbing on the WS: p2, k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *–*, p2. Work ribbing for 3 cm, then bind off in pattern. Place markers for 6 buttons on the buttonband. The topmost button should be 1,5 cm from the top edge, the lowest one 1,5 cm from the bottom edge, and the others evenly in between.

Knit the right buttonband in the same manner, making buttonholes at the marked spots when the band measures 1 cm. Buttonhole: work 2 sts together, yarn over. When the buttonband measures 3 cm, bind off in pattern.

Sew the crotch seam, attaching the bottom edges of the buttonbands to the crotch on top of each other.

Sew on the buttons.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

Find size guides for your knitting projects

With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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