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Striped mittens with Indian thumb gusset 7 Veljestä Polaris and Novita 7 Veljestä

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Yarn dominance will determine which colour features more prominently on the finished mittens. See the Novita Syksy 2018 magazine or novitaknits.com for a tutorial.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 51
Skill level Intermediate
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N041851
Pattern details
Size
One size

Yarn demand
Colour scheme I:
Colour 1:
Novita Hohde
(041) Stone 100 g;
colour 2:
Novita 7 Veljestä Polaris
(803) Forenoon 100 g

Colour scheme II:
Colour 1:
Novita 7 Veljestä Polaris
(803) Forenoon 100 g;
colour 2:
7 Veljestä
(048) Rock 100 g

Needles and other supplies
Needles:
Novita 3½ mm (UK US) or size needed to obtain gauge.

Designer
Eeva Schleicher-Jauss

Details

Left mitten

Using colour 1, cast on 48 sts and divide them onto four needles. The beginning of the round is between needles IV and I. Needles I and II form the palm of the mitten and needles III and IV the back.

Work garter st in the round: purl 1 round with colour 1, knit 1 round with colour 2, purl 1 round with colour 2, knit 1 round with colour 1, purl 1 round with colour 1, knit 1 round with colour 2.

Begin the colourwork in the round: *k1 colour 1, k1 colour 2*, repeat *-*. Yarn dominance: Colour 1 is the dominant colour and should be positioned accordingly on your finger. Make sure to keep the colours in the same order throughout the knit.

When you have worked 16 rounds of colourwork, move 7 sts from needle I onto needle II. 5 sts on needle I, 19 sts on needle II. Begin the Indian thumb gusset on needles I and II and start increases on needles III and IV:

1st increase round: work the 5 sts on needle I, increase 1 st using colour 2 (= pick up the strand of yarn between needles I and II onto needle II and knit it through the back loop onto needle I), work needle II. At the beginning of needle III, increase 1 st using colour 2 (= pick up the strand of yarn between needles II and III and knit it through the back loop onto needle III), work needles III and IV, and at the end of needle IV increase 1 st using colour 1 (= pick up the strand of yarn between needles IV and I and knit it onto needle IV). 6 sts on needle I, 19 sts on needle II, 13 sts each on needles III and IV.

2nd increase round: work the 6 sts on needle I, increase 1 st using colour 1, work needle II. At the beginning of needle III, increase 1 st using colour 1, work needles III and IV, and at the end of needle IV increase 1 st using colour 2. 7 sts on needle I, 19 sts on needle II, 14 sts each on needles III and IV.

Continue working the increases on every round at the end of needle I, the beginning of needle III and the end of needle IV, alternating colours 2 and 1. Work the increased sts following the colourwork.

When you have 18 sts on needles III and IV, keep working the increases but on the next round begin decreases on needles III and IV: in the middle of the needle on the next round, decrease 2 sts following the colourwork pattern (= slip 1, k2tog, pass the slipped st over). Keep working the increases and decreases as established on every round. 1 st increased on needle I on every round. Needle II remains at 19 sts and needles III and IV at 18 sts each.

Note: When you have 26 sts on needle I, leave the 19 sts on needle II on hold for the thumb e.g. on a piece of yarn. Now divide the sts so that you have 13 sts on needles I and II. Work to end of round.

Continue the colourwork with the 62 sts and keep working the increases and decreases on needles III and IV.

When you worked 14 rounds of colourwork after the thumbhole, begin decreasing on needles III and IV: stop working the increases but continue decreasing as established for 5 rounds. 13 sts on each needle, 52 sts in total.

Top decreases: At the beginning of needle I, work the skp decrease (= slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped st over), and at the end of needle II, k2tog. Note: The sts on the very edge should stay the same colour even if the striping changes colour. Work the decreases on every round until 8 sts remain in total.

Break the yarn, pass it through the remaining sts (or stitch them together) and securely weave in.

Right mitten

Work as the mirror image of the left mitten. On the right mitten, begin the vertical striping with the other colour, but keep the colour in the same order on your fingers. This way you will have the same colour at the edge of the gusset but the dominant yarn won't change.

Needles I and II form the palm of the mitten and needles III and IV the back.

For the thumb gusset increases, move 7 sts from needle IV onto needle III so you'll have 19 sts on needle III and 5 sts on needle IV. Work the thumb gusset increases from between needles III and IV onto needle IV.

Thumb

Pick up the sts on hold as well as 7 sts from the base of the thumb and divide them onto three needles. Working in the round, continue the vertical striping with these 26 sts.

When you have worked for 5 cm or when the mitten covers half your thumb nail, work the top decreases: at the beginning of needle I and III work the skp decrease, and at the end of needles II and IV, knit 2 sts together. Continue until 8 sts remain in total. Break the yarn, pass it through the remaining sts (or stitch them together) and securely weave in.

Finishing

Steam or wet block the mittens and allow them to dry flat to better smooth out the back of the mitt

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
Adult

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:
- Garter stitch in the round:
alternate 1 purl round and 1 knit round.
- Stockinette stitch in the round:
knit all rows.
- Colourwork in the round:
work following the instructions.

Gauge:
26 sts of colourwork = 10 cm / 4 in

Left mitten

Using colour 1, cast on 48 sts and divide them onto four needles. The beginning of the round is between needles IV and I. Needles I and II form the palm of the mitten and needles III and IV the back.

Work garter st in the round: purl 1 round with colour 1, knit 1 round with colour 2, purl 1 round with colour 2, knit 1 round with colour 1, purl 1 round with colour 1, knit 1 round with colour 2.

Begin the colourwork in the round: *k1 colour 1, k1 colour 2*, repeat *-*. Yarn dominance: Colour 1 is the dominant colour and should be positioned accordingly on your finger. Make sure to keep the colours in the same order throughout the knit.

When you have worked 16 rounds of colourwork, move 7 sts from needle I onto needle II. 5 sts on needle I, 19 sts on needle II. Begin the Indian thumb gusset on needles I and II and start increases on needles III and IV:

1st increase round: work the 5 sts on needle I, increase 1 st using colour 2 (= pick up the strand of yarn between needles I and II onto needle II and knit it through the back loop onto needle I), work needle II. At the beginning of needle III, increase 1 st using colour 2 (= pick up the strand of yarn between needles II and III and knit it through the back loop onto needle III), work needles III and IV, and at the end of needle IV increase 1 st using colour 1 (= pick up the strand of yarn between needles IV and I and knit it onto needle IV). 6 sts on needle I, 19 sts on needle II, 13 sts each on needles III and IV.

2nd increase round: work the 6 sts on needle I, increase 1 st using colour 1, work needle II. At the beginning of needle III, increase 1 st using colour 1, work needles III and IV, and at the end of needle IV increase 1 st using colour 2. 7 sts on needle I, 19 sts on needle II, 14 sts each on needles III and IV.

Continue working the increases on every round at the end of needle I, the beginning of needle III and the end of needle IV, alternating colours 2 and 1. Work the increased sts following the colourwork.

When you have 18 sts on needles III and IV, keep working the increases but on the next round begin decreases on needles III and IV: in the middle of the needle on the next round, decrease 2 sts following the colourwork pattern (= slip 1, k2tog, pass the slipped st over). Keep working the increases and decreases as established on every round. 1 st increased on needle I on every round. Needle II remains at 19 sts and needles III and IV at 18 sts each.

Note: When you have 26 sts on needle I, leave the 19 sts on needle II on hold for the thumb e.g. on a piece of yarn. Now divide the sts so that you have 13 sts on needles I and II. Work to end of round.

Continue the colourwork with the 62 sts and keep working the increases and decreases on needles III and IV.

When you worked 14 rounds of colourwork after the thumbhole, begin decreasing on needles III and IV: stop working the increases but continue decreasing as established for 5 rounds. 13 sts on each needle, 52 sts in total.

Top decreases: At the beginning of needle I, work the skp decrease (= slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped st over), and at the end of needle II, k2tog. Note: The sts on the very edge should stay the same colour even if the striping changes colour. Work the decreases on every round until 8 sts remain in total.

Break the yarn, pass it through the remaining sts (or stitch them together) and securely weave in.

Right mitten

Work as the mirror image of the left mitten. On the right mitten, begin the vertical striping with the other colour, but keep the colour in the same order on your fingers. This way you will have the same colour at the edge of the gusset but the dominant yarn won't change.

Needles I and II form the palm of the mitten and needles III and IV the back.

For the thumb gusset increases, move 7 sts from needle IV onto needle III so you'll have 19 sts on needle III and 5 sts on needle IV. Work the thumb gusset increases from between needles III and IV onto needle IV.

Thumb

Pick up the sts on hold as well as 7 sts from the base of the thumb and divide them onto three needles. Working in the round, continue the vertical striping with these 26 sts.

When you have worked for 5 cm or when the mitten covers half your thumb nail, work the top decreases: at the beginning of needle I and III work the skp decrease, and at the end of needles II and IV, knit 2 sts together. Continue until 8 sts remain in total. Break the yarn, pass it through the remaining sts (or stitch them together) and securely weave in.

Finishing

Steam or wet block the mittens and allow them to dry flat to better smooth out the back of the mitt


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

Find size guides for your knitting projects

With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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