Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Stardust socks Novita Venla
As low as €6.96
Knitted from fingering-weight Novita Venla, the Tähtisumu (Stardust) socks feature an amazing, detailed star pattern that makes for an exciting project for the experienced sock-knitter.
Novita Talvi 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
37
Intermediate
Availability: In stock
N041937
Related Products
Size
One sizeYarn demand
Novita Venla(543) Tomato <100 g and
(010) Off White <100 g
Needles and other supplies
Double-pointed needles:Novita 2½ mm (UK 12½ / US 1½) or size needed to obtain gauge
Designer
Minna MetsänenStart
Using Off White cast on 96 sts and divide them onto four needles, 24 sts each. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Work 1 round of ribbing using Off White: *k1, p1*, repeat *-*. Then work 5 rounds of corrugated ribbing. Work 2 rounds in stockinette st using Off White.
Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart I. Repeat the 12 st pattern 8 times. Work rows 2-17 of the chart.
Work rows 18-24. Repeat the 2 st pattern 48 times.
Work row 25, evenly decreasing 3 sts = 93 sts. Distribution: 24 sts on needle I, 23 sts each on needles II, III and IV.
Continue on row 1 of chart II. From now on begin the round at the midpoint of the cable pattern (see arrow): work 3 sts Off White and 1 st Tomato, repeat the 12 st colourwork pattern 7 times, work the 1 st at the left end of the chart, work 1 st Tomato and 3 sts Off White. Now keep repeating rows 2-13, working the cable turns on rows 5 and 11.
Note: After working rows 2-13 once, work rows 2-4 once more. On the next round begin decreases on both sides of the cable pattern: work 4 sts following the chart, skp using the colour needed for the pattern (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), work to last 6 sts, k2tog using the colour needed, work to end of round. Repeat the decreases on every 6th round (on the cable turn rounds) 9 more times = 73 sts. Note that the pattern repeats will not be full ones because of the decreases. As you keep decreasing move sts from needle II onto needle I and from needle III onto needle IV so that there are 18 sts each on needles II and III.
After you have repeated rows 2-13 7 times in total, the leg measures approx. 35 cm.
Begin the heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV following the patterns = 37 sts. Leave the other sts on hold and turn work. Break off Tomato and continue with Off White. Purl to end, evenly decreasing 2 sts so that there are 14 sts before the cable and 15 sts after it on the RS = 35 sts.
Begin the reinforced st pattern and resume the cable pattern:
Row 1: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *-* 6 times in total, slip 1, p1, work the 6 cable sts, p1, *slip 1, k1*, repeat *-* to end. Turn work.
Row 2: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in back, p13, k1, p6, k1, purl to end. Turn work.
Repeat rows 1-2 a total of 16 times (= 32 rows), working the cable turns on every 6th row as established.
With all sts, continue working the reinforced st pattern and begin turning the heel: work until 14 sts remain at the left end of the heel flap. Skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), turn work. Slip 1, p8, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work to last 13 sts, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 10 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide the sts onto two needles, 5 sts each. Break off the Off White yarn.
Using needle I pick up 16 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 2 sts from between the needles. Using needle IV pick up 16 sts from the other end of the flap + 2 sts from between the needles. 82 sts now on the needles.
Resume the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart III. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. Work rows 2-11. Work gusset decreases at the end of needle I and beginning of needle IV following the chart. 72 sts now on the needles.
Continue on row 12 of the chart. Keep repeating rows 13-24 until you reach the toe decreases. When the foot measures approx. 19 cm, knit 1 round using Off White, decreasing 2 sts on each needle = 64 sts, 16 sts per needle.
Use Off White for the rest of the piece. Begin toe decreases: at the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Decrease as established on every 2nd round until 12 sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round. When 12 sts remain, break yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.
Knit the other sock in the same manner.
Finishing
Lightly steam the socks.
Finished dimensions
Shoe size 38/39 (EUR)Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:- Corrugated ribbing in the round:
*k1 with Off White, p1 with Tomato*
Start
Using Off White cast on 96 sts and divide them onto four needles, 24 sts each. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Work 1 round of ribbing using Off White: *k1, p1*, repeat *-*. Then work 5 rounds of corrugated ribbing. Work 2 rounds in stockinette st using Off White.
Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart I. Repeat the 12 st pattern 8 times. Work rows 2-17 of the chart.
Work rows 18-24. Repeat the 2 st pattern 48 times.
Work row 25, evenly decreasing 3 sts = 93 sts. Distribution: 24 sts on needle I, 23 sts each on needles II, III and IV.
Continue on row 1 of chart II. From now on begin the round at the midpoint of the cable pattern (see arrow): work 3 sts Off White and 1 st Tomato, repeat the 12 st colourwork pattern 7 times, work the 1 st at the left end of the chart, work 1 st Tomato and 3 sts Off White. Now keep repeating rows 2-13, working the cable turns on rows 5 and 11.
Note: After working rows 2-13 once, work rows 2-4 once more. On the next round begin decreases on both sides of the cable pattern: work 4 sts following the chart, skp using the colour needed for the pattern (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), work to last 6 sts, k2tog using the colour needed, work to end of round. Repeat the decreases on every 6th round (on the cable turn rounds) 9 more times = 73 sts. Note that the pattern repeats will not be full ones because of the decreases. As you keep decreasing move sts from needle II onto needle I and from needle III onto needle IV so that there are 18 sts each on needles II and III.
After you have repeated rows 2-13 7 times in total, the leg measures approx. 35 cm.
Begin the heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV following the patterns = 37 sts. Leave the other sts on hold and turn work. Break off Tomato and continue with Off White. Purl to end, evenly decreasing 2 sts so that there are 14 sts before the cable and 15 sts after it on the RS = 35 sts.
Begin the reinforced st pattern and resume the cable pattern:
Row 1: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *-* 6 times in total, slip 1, p1, work the 6 cable sts, p1, *slip 1, k1*, repeat *-* to end. Turn work.
Row 2: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in back, p13, k1, p6, k1, purl to end. Turn work.
Repeat rows 1-2 a total of 16 times (= 32 rows), working the cable turns on every 6th row as established.
With all sts, continue working the reinforced st pattern and begin turning the heel: work until 14 sts remain at the left end of the heel flap. Skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), turn work. Slip 1, p8, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work to last 13 sts, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 10 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide the sts onto two needles, 5 sts each. Break off the Off White yarn.
Using needle I pick up 16 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 2 sts from between the needles. Using needle IV pick up 16 sts from the other end of the flap + 2 sts from between the needles. 82 sts now on the needles.
Resume the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart III. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. Work rows 2-11. Work gusset decreases at the end of needle I and beginning of needle IV following the chart. 72 sts now on the needles.
Continue on row 12 of the chart. Keep repeating rows 13-24 until you reach the toe decreases. When the foot measures approx. 19 cm, knit 1 round using Off White, decreasing 2 sts on each needle = 64 sts, 16 sts per needle.
Use Off White for the rest of the piece. Begin toe decreases: at the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Decrease as established on every 2nd round until 12 sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round. When 12 sts remain, break yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.
Knit the other sock in the same manner.
Finishing
Lightly steam the socks.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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