Springtime Hug socks Novita 7 Veljestä Raita and 7 Veljestä

As low as €6.96

Spring is just around the corner! Try out our new spring/summer colours with these lovely socks from single-colour and striped yarns together. Keväthali literally translates into Spring Hug, in case you wondered.
Novita Kevät 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
18
Intermediate
Customize Springtime Hug socks Novita 7 Veljestä Raita and 7 Veljestä

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    €6.96

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    Availability: In stock

    N012018
    Size
    Shoe size approx. 30(34)38(42)46 (EUR)

    Yarn demand
    Sizes 30 and 34
    main colour: 7 Veljestä (325) Lush <50(50) g and
    contrast colour: 7 Veljestä Raita (803) Meadow Bouquet <50(50) g

    Size 38
    main colour: 7 Veljestä Raita (803) Meadow Bouquet <100 g and
    contrast colour: 7 Veljestä (325) Lush 50 g

    Sizes 42 and 46
    main colour: 7 Veljestä Raita (803) Meadow Bouquet 100(100) g and
    contrast colour: 7 Veljestä (325) Lush <100(100) g

    Note
    One ball of Meadow Bouquet (100 g) and one ball of Lush (150 g) are enough for women's size socks and children's size (34 or 30) socks

    Needles and other supplies
    Double-pointed needles
    Novita 3½ mm (US 4) or size needed to obtain gauge

    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Using contrast colour cast on 40(44)48(52)56 sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles, 10(11)12(13)14 sts each. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Work ribbing in the round.

    When the leg measures 5(5)6(6)7 cm, break yarn and switch to main colour. Work ribbing for another 5(6)6(7)7 cm. The leg now measures 10(11)12(13)14 cm. Break yarn and switch to contrast colour.

    Begin the heel flap: work the sts on needle I as they appear onto needle IV [= 20(22)24(26)28 sts]. Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work and begin reinforced stitch pattern:

    Row 1: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in back, purl to end. Turn work.

    Row 2: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *-* to end. Turn work.

    Repeat rows 1-2 a total of 10(11)12(13)14 times [= 20(22)24(26)28 rows].

    Work the WS row once more and begin turning the heel: continue the reinforced pattern as established. Work the RS row until 7(8)9(9)10 sts remain. Skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), turn work. Slip 1, p6(6)6(8)8, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work to last 6(7)8(8)9 sts, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 8(8)8(10)10 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide the sts onto two needles, 4(4)4(5)5 sts each. Break yarn.

    Continue with main colour and knit the 4(4)4(5)5 left-hand heel flap sts. Using a free needle pick up 10(11)12(13)14 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle II. Using the left-hand sole needle knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Using the needle with 4(4)4(5)5 sts pick up 10(11)12(13)14 sts from the right end + 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and knit the 4(4)4(5)5 flap sts.

    With these 50(54)58(64)68 sts work stockinette st and begin gusset decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog; at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Repeat the decreases every other round 4(4)4(5)5 more times. 40(44)48(52)56 sts on the needles, 10(11)12(13)14 sts each.

    Work stockinette st until the sole measures 13,5(15,5)18(20)23 cm or 1,5(1,5)2(2)2 cm from length covering fifth toe. Break yarn and use contrast colour for the rest of the piece.

    After 1,5(1,5)2(2)2 cm with contrast colour, begin toe decreases: at the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Decrease as established on every other round until 5(6)6(7)7 sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round.

    When 8 sts remain, break yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.

    Knit the other sock in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Securely weave in all ends. Steam the socks lightly.

    Finished dimensions
    ""

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*

    Using contrast colour cast on 40(44)48(52)56 sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles, 10(11)12(13)14 sts each. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Work ribbing in the round.

    When the leg measures 5(5)6(6)7 cm, break yarn and switch to main colour. Work ribbing for another 5(6)6(7)7 cm. The leg now measures 10(11)12(13)14 cm. Break yarn and switch to contrast colour.

    Begin the heel flap: work the sts on needle I as they appear onto needle IV [= 20(22)24(26)28 sts]. Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work and begin reinforced stitch pattern:

    Row 1: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in back, purl to end. Turn work.

    Row 2: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *-* to end. Turn work.

    Repeat rows 1-2 a total of 10(11)12(13)14 times [= 20(22)24(26)28 rows].

    Work the WS row once more and begin turning the heel: continue the reinforced pattern as established. Work the RS row until 7(8)9(9)10 sts remain. Skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), turn work. Slip 1, p6(6)6(8)8, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work to last 6(7)8(8)9 sts, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 8(8)8(10)10 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide the sts onto two needles, 4(4)4(5)5 sts each. Break yarn.

    Continue with main colour and knit the 4(4)4(5)5 left-hand heel flap sts. Using a free needle pick up 10(11)12(13)14 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle II. Using the left-hand sole needle knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Using the needle with 4(4)4(5)5 sts pick up 10(11)12(13)14 sts from the right end + 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and knit the 4(4)4(5)5 flap sts.

    With these 50(54)58(64)68 sts work stockinette st and begin gusset decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog; at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Repeat the decreases every other round 4(4)4(5)5 more times. 40(44)48(52)56 sts on the needles, 10(11)12(13)14 sts each.

    Work stockinette st until the sole measures 13,5(15,5)18(20)23 cm or 1,5(1,5)2(2)2 cm from length covering fifth toe. Break yarn and use contrast colour for the rest of the piece.

    After 1,5(1,5)2(2)2 cm with contrast colour, begin toe decreases: at the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Decrease as established on every other round until 5(6)6(7)7 sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round.

    When 8 sts remain, break yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.

    Knit the other sock in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Securely weave in all ends. Steam the socks lightly.


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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