Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Spring in the Air socks Novita 7 Veljestä Korpi and 7 Veljestä
As low as €6.96
For Marjut Ruusuvaara, every sock tells a story. Kevättä ilmassa (“Spring is in the airâ€) takes you to that magic moment when winter finally subsides, giving way to the budding green beneath.
Novita Kevät 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
21
Intermediate
Availability: In stock
N012021
Size
Shoe size 34(38)42 (EUR)Yarn demand
Novita 7 Veljestä Korpi(998) Woods Path 100(100)150 g
Novita 7 Veljestä
(011) White 50(50)50 g
Needles and other supplies
Double-pointed needlesNovita 3½ mm (US 4) or size needed to obtain gauge.
If needed use 0,5 mm larger needles for the colourwork sections to avoid a too tight fabric.
Designer
Marjut RuusuvaaraUsing White cast on 48(52)56 sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles, 12(13)14 sts each. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Work twisted ribbing in the round for 4(5)5 cm.
Switch to Woods Path and work stockinette st in the round. Note that the vertical white stripes are embroidered onto the finished sock using duplicate sts.
When the leg measures 11(12)14 cm, begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of the chart. Repeat the 12(13)14 st pattern 4 times. Note: Twist the yarns around each other on the WS (at different points on back-to-back rows) to avoid floats longer than 4 sts. Work rows 2-18 of the chart.
Work stockinette st in the round with Woods Path until the leg measures 19(21)24 cm.
On the next round decrease 1 st on each needle by k2tog = 44(48)52 sts, 11(12)13 sts each. Work 1 round with White and 1 round with Woods Path.
Begin heel flap: using Woods Path knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 22(24)26 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work and begin reinforced stitch pattern:
Row 1: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in back, purl to end. Turn work.
Row 2: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *-* to end. Turn work.
Work rows 1-2 11(12)13 times in total [= 22(24)26 rows].
Work the WS row once more and begin turning the heel: continue the reinforced pattern as established. Work the RS row until 8(9)9 sts remain. Skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), turn work. Slip 1, p6(6)8, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work to last 7(8)8 sts, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 8(8)10 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide the sts onto two needles, 4(4)5 sts each. Knit the 4(4)5 sts on needle IV.
Using needle I pick up 11(12)13 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle II. Knit the 4(4)5 heel flap sts and knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Using the needle with 4(4)5 sts pick up 11(12)13 sts from the right end + 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and k4(4)5.
With these 54(58)64 sts work stockinette st and begin gusset decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog; at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Repeat the decreases every other round 4(4)5 more times = 44(48)52 sts, 11(12)13 sts each.
Note: When you have worked 6 rounds with all sts after the heel flap (with 7 Woods Path rounds on needles II and III after the previous white stripe), work 2 rounds White, 6 rounds Woods Path, 3 rounds White, 5 rounds Woods Path, 4 rounds White and 4 rounds Woods Path. After each time there is 1 round more on a White stripe and 1 round less on a Woods Path stripe.
Continue in this manner until there would be no more Woods Path stripes or until the sole measures 17(20)22 cm.
Use White for the rest of the sock and begin toe decreases: at the end of each needle k2tog. Repeat the decreases every other round twice more and then 7(8)9 times on every round. Break yarn, pull it through the remaining 8 sts and securely weave in.
Knit the other sock in the same manner.
Finishing
Using White, embroider 1 st wide vertical stripes on the leg with duplicate stitches. Make the stripes different lengths (4-14 rows).
Steam the socks lightly.
Finished dimensions
""Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns- Twisted ribbing in the round: *k1 through back loop, p1*
Using White cast on 48(52)56 sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles, 12(13)14 sts each. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Work twisted ribbing in the round for 4(5)5 cm.
Switch to Woods Path and work stockinette st in the round. Note that the vertical white stripes are embroidered onto the finished sock using duplicate sts.
When the leg measures 11(12)14 cm, begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of the chart. Repeat the 12(13)14 st pattern 4 times. Note: Twist the yarns around each other on the WS (at different points on back-to-back rows) to avoid floats longer than 4 sts. Work rows 2-18 of the chart.
Work stockinette st in the round with Woods Path until the leg measures 19(21)24 cm.
On the next round decrease 1 st on each needle by k2tog = 44(48)52 sts, 11(12)13 sts each. Work 1 round with White and 1 round with Woods Path.
Begin heel flap: using Woods Path knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 22(24)26 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work and begin reinforced stitch pattern:
Row 1: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in back, purl to end. Turn work.
Row 2: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *-* to end. Turn work.
Work rows 1-2 11(12)13 times in total [= 22(24)26 rows].
Work the WS row once more and begin turning the heel: continue the reinforced pattern as established. Work the RS row until 8(9)9 sts remain. Skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), turn work. Slip 1, p6(6)8, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work to last 7(8)8 sts, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 8(8)10 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide the sts onto two needles, 4(4)5 sts each. Knit the 4(4)5 sts on needle IV.
Using needle I pick up 11(12)13 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle II. Knit the 4(4)5 heel flap sts and knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Using the needle with 4(4)5 sts pick up 11(12)13 sts from the right end + 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and k4(4)5.
With these 54(58)64 sts work stockinette st and begin gusset decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog; at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Repeat the decreases every other round 4(4)5 more times = 44(48)52 sts, 11(12)13 sts each.
Note: When you have worked 6 rounds with all sts after the heel flap (with 7 Woods Path rounds on needles II and III after the previous white stripe), work 2 rounds White, 6 rounds Woods Path, 3 rounds White, 5 rounds Woods Path, 4 rounds White and 4 rounds Woods Path. After each time there is 1 round more on a White stripe and 1 round less on a Woods Path stripe.
Continue in this manner until there would be no more Woods Path stripes or until the sole measures 17(20)22 cm.
Use White for the rest of the sock and begin toe decreases: at the end of each needle k2tog. Repeat the decreases every other round twice more and then 7(8)9 times on every round. Break yarn, pull it through the remaining 8 sts and securely weave in.
Knit the other sock in the same manner.
Finishing
Using White, embroider 1 st wide vertical stripes on the leg with duplicate stitches. Make the stripes different lengths (4-14 rows).
Steam the socks lightly.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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