Sofi sweater Novita Nordic Wool

As low as €6.96

This sweater is part of a capsule wardrobe designed by Sari Nordlund, comprising nine designs perfectly compatible with each other.
Novita Talvi 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
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    Availability: In stock

    N04195
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Nordic Wool
    (048) Rock 500(550)600(650)700(750) g

    Needles and other supplies
    Needles
    Novita 3½ mm (UK 9½ / US 4) and 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) or sizes needed;

    4 mm,
    5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) and
    6 mm (UK 4 / US 10) circular needles (40 cm / 16 in) for the collar

    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Back

    Using the smaller needles cast on 102(110)118(124)132(138) sts and work ribbing for 6 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the pattern on row 1 of the chart: work 11(15)19(22)26(29) sts in seed st, work section A (= 15 sts), section B (= 7 sts), section C 3 times (= 36 sts), section D (= 7 sts), section E (= 15 sts), work 11(15)19(22)26(29) sts in seed st. At sections A and E work rows 2-8 and then keep repeating rows 1-8. At sections B-D work rows 2-28, then keep repeating rows 1-28.

    When the piece measures 38(39)40(42)43(44) cm, on every other row bind off 1x2(3)4(6)7(9) sts and 1(1)2(2)3(3)x2 sts at both ends for the armholes = 94(100)102(104)106(108) sts.

    Begin raglan decreases. On every other row decrease 25(24)26(25)25(28)x1 sts at both ends: on a RS row p1, p2tog, work to last 3 sts, p2tog through back loop, p1. On every other row decrease 1(3)2(3)3(2)x2 sts at both ends: on a RS row p1, p3tog, work to last 4 sts, p3tog through back loop, p1.

    After completing the raglan decreases bind off the remaining 40(40)42(42)44(44) sts.

    Front

    Work like back until you have decreased 19(20)21(21)21(21)23 sts at both ends and there are 56(60)60(62)64(62) sts on the needles. Continue decreasing as established, and on the next RS row leave the middle 34(38)38(40)42(40) sts on hold for the neckline. Work one shoulder at a time. Continue decreasing as established, and at the same time on every other row bind off 1x3 sts and 2x2 sts at the neckline edge.

    Knit the other side in the same manner.

    Left sleeve

    Using the smaller needles cast on 50(52)54(54)56(56) sts and work ribbing for 6 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the pattern on row 1 of the chart: work 6(7)8(8)9(9) sts in seed st, work section B (= 7 sts), section C 2 times (= 24 sts), section D (= 7 sts), work 6(7)8(8)9(9) sts in seed st. Work rows 2-8 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-28.

    When the piece measures 10(11)13(13)10(10) cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 4(4)3,5(3)3(2,5) cm 8(8)9(11)12(15) more times = 68(70)74(78)82(88) sts.

    When the piece measures 46(47)48(49)49(50) cm, on every other row bind off 1x2(3)4(6)7(9) sts and 1x2 sts = 60(60)62(62)64(66) sts.

    Begin raglan decreases. At the right end: on every other row decrease 18(17)17(15)16(16)x1 st and then 4(5)6(7)7(8)x1 st on every 4th row. At the same time at the left end decrease 21(19)20(18)19(19)x1 st on every other row and then 1(3)3(4)4(5)x1 st on every 4th row: on a RS row p1, p2tog, work to last 3 sts, p2tog through back loop, p1.

    After completing the decreases at the left end, on every other row bind off 2x5(5)5(6)6(6) sts and 1x6 sts at the left end.

    Right sleeve

    Mirror left sleeve.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Sew the raglan seams. Sew the side seams and sleeve seams.

    Collar: Move the sts you left on hold onto the 4 mm circular needle and pick up additional sts from the neckline edge for 124(126)126(128)128(130) sts in total. Work ribbing in the round for 8 cm, then switch to the 5 mm circular needle. Work ribbing in the round for 8 cm (collar now measures 16 cm), then switch to the 6 mm circular needle. Work ribbing until the collar measures 24 cm, then bind off in pattern.

    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 88(96)104(112)120(128) cm / 34¾(37¾)41(44)47¼(50½) in middle back length 58(60)62(64)66(68) cm / 22¾(23½)24½(25¼)26(26¾) in inner sleeve length 46(47)48(49)49(50) cm / 18(18½)19(19¼)19¼(19¾) in

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Ribbing: *k1, p1, repeat *-*. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.
    - Stockinette stitch: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
    - Seed stitch: *k1, p1*, repeat *-*. On the wrong side rows, purl the knit sts and knit the purl sts.
    - Cable pattern: work following the chart and instructions. Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*

    Back

    Using the smaller needles cast on 102(110)118(124)132(138) sts and work ribbing for 6 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the pattern on row 1 of the chart: work 11(15)19(22)26(29) sts in seed st, work section A (= 15 sts), section B (= 7 sts), section C 3 times (= 36 sts), section D (= 7 sts), section E (= 15 sts), work 11(15)19(22)26(29) sts in seed st. At sections A and E work rows 2-8 and then keep repeating rows 1-8. At sections B-D work rows 2-28, then keep repeating rows 1-28.

    When the piece measures 38(39)40(42)43(44) cm, on every other row bind off 1x2(3)4(6)7(9) sts and 1(1)2(2)3(3)x2 sts at both ends for the armholes = 94(100)102(104)106(108) sts.

    Begin raglan decreases. On every other row decrease 25(24)26(25)25(28)x1 sts at both ends: on a RS row p1, p2tog, work to last 3 sts, p2tog through back loop, p1. On every other row decrease 1(3)2(3)3(2)x2 sts at both ends: on a RS row p1, p3tog, work to last 4 sts, p3tog through back loop, p1.

    After completing the raglan decreases bind off the remaining 40(40)42(42)44(44) sts.

    Front

    Work like back until you have decreased 19(20)21(21)21(21)23 sts at both ends and there are 56(60)60(62)64(62) sts on the needles. Continue decreasing as established, and on the next RS row leave the middle 34(38)38(40)42(40) sts on hold for the neckline. Work one shoulder at a time. Continue decreasing as established, and at the same time on every other row bind off 1x3 sts and 2x2 sts at the neckline edge.

    Knit the other side in the same manner.

    Left sleeve

    Using the smaller needles cast on 50(52)54(54)56(56) sts and work ribbing for 6 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles and begin the pattern on row 1 of the chart: work 6(7)8(8)9(9) sts in seed st, work section B (= 7 sts), section C 2 times (= 24 sts), section D (= 7 sts), work 6(7)8(8)9(9) sts in seed st. Work rows 2-8 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-28.

    When the piece measures 10(11)13(13)10(10) cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 4(4)3,5(3)3(2,5) cm 8(8)9(11)12(15) more times = 68(70)74(78)82(88) sts.

    When the piece measures 46(47)48(49)49(50) cm, on every other row bind off 1x2(3)4(6)7(9) sts and 1x2 sts = 60(60)62(62)64(66) sts.

    Begin raglan decreases. At the right end: on every other row decrease 18(17)17(15)16(16)x1 st and then 4(5)6(7)7(8)x1 st on every 4th row. At the same time at the left end decrease 21(19)20(18)19(19)x1 st on every other row and then 1(3)3(4)4(5)x1 st on every 4th row: on a RS row p1, p2tog, work to last 3 sts, p2tog through back loop, p1.

    After completing the decreases at the left end, on every other row bind off 2x5(5)5(6)6(6) sts and 1x6 sts at the left end.

    Right sleeve

    Mirror left sleeve.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Sew the raglan seams. Sew the side seams and sleeve seams.

    Collar: Move the sts you left on hold onto the 4 mm circular needle and pick up additional sts from the neckline edge for 124(126)126(128)128(130) sts in total. Work ribbing in the round for 8 cm, then switch to the 5 mm circular needle. Work ribbing in the round for 8 cm (collar now measures 16 cm), then switch to the 6 mm circular needle. Work ribbing until the collar measures 24 cm, then bind off in pattern.


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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